
FT MEADE 
GenCol 1 













I EASY AND ELEGANT BOOTS. | 

M. THIERRY, 

LADIES’ AND GENT’S 


EOOT 'UEER 



LADIES’ TOURIST BOOT. o luuRIST BOOT. 


26 s. 28 s. 

! ALWAYS READY, OVER 2.5,000 PAIRS OP BOOTS AND SHOES 
i TO CHOOSE FROM, all equal to best bespoke work. Any kind of Boot 
i or Shoe made to order at 2s. per pair extra, for special lasts. 

No inferior articles kept; all goods are warranted, and marked in plain 
figures. 

riease Note 70 , QUABBANT, RBGENT STREET, as 
there is another hotrse of the same name in the Street, 






















THE 


IRISH WAREHOUSE, 

147, REGENT STREET, W. 

PATRONIZED B'T ROYALTY. 

IRISH POPLINS. 

All the New Colours are ready for inspec¬ 
tion. d’ho only genuine Retail Irish 
Poplin Manufacturers in England are 
TNGLIS & TINCKLER. Patterns Post 
Free. Manufactory — 7 & 8, Eustace St., 
Dublin. 

! I R I S H LTN E N S, 

Irish Table Damasks of original designs. 
Irish Linen Sheetings in all widths. 
Irish Cambric Handkerchiefs. 
Household Linens at Civil Service Prices 
Send for Price List. Parcels Carriage 
\ Paid. 

\ REAL BA LMiggAI HOSIERY. 
, INGLIS & TINCKLER, 

f 147, REGENT STREET, LONDON. 

t ■ 

£ 




























Important t o Tourists and Travellers. 

SWAN & EDGAR 


'Have made arrangements with Manufacturers by 
which they can supply all the newest and best 

goods in 

LADIES’ DRESS 

at the Lowest Prices. 


NOVELTIES are daily displayed in the following 

Departments :— 


BLACK SILKS 
COLOURED SILKS 
COSTUMES 
I MANTLES 
j SHAWLS 
FURS 

BALL DRESSES 
MILLINERY 


DRESS MATERIALS 
HOUSEHOLD LINENS 
LACE, RIBBONS 
GLOVES, HOSIERY 
TRIMMINGS 
HABERDASHERY 
LADIES’ UNDERLINEN 
JUVENILE COSTUMES 


A separate Department for Gentlemen's Outfits. 


Spacious Sliow Ivooms are set apart for tlie display of 
Costumes ready for wear in materials suitable for Travel lino-, 
and complete Outfits for all parts can be supplied at a momeut’s 
notice. Terms, ready-money. — 

TATTDmS Al^D ESTIMATES FREE. 

PICCADILLY & REGENT STREET, LONDON, W. 
















coo K\S 


TO [JRIST’S HANDBOOK 

FOR 


SWITZERLAND. 







T 

t- 


r 

I 





I COOK’S 

RAILWAY MAP 

^ SHOWING THE CONNECTIONS WITH 

i SWITZERLAJSTD. 


L. 


I’nolisU Miles 

K) C<> 

f* nhi>y^ii ihui* 

HiiilvKiyH over wttirli ( 

Cmt/a Tirkctjt tm' ttvtttJohie ) 
,S(* ftntt'rS'Boulea 







































































2 !l 


COOK’S ' 



bonbon: 


THOMAS COOK & SON, Ludgate Circus, E.C. ; 
SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & Co. 

NEW YORK : COOK, SON, & JENKINS, 261 , BROADWAY. 
GENEVA : THOMAS COOK & SON, 90 , RUE DU RHONE. 


1876. 





D6p . 


Transfer 

Engi neci s School LIby. j 

June 29,1931 




*) 


4 



CONTENTS. 


Introductory. page 

Luggage, I ; Custom-house Examinations, i ; Passports, 2; Lan¬ 
guage, 2 j Money, 2 ; Cook’s Circular Notes, 2 ; Money Tables, 

3; Time-tables, 3 ; Postage, 3; Fees, 4 ; Hotels and Hotel 
(Coupons, 4 ; Routes, 4 ; Time for Visiting Switzerland, 5 ; 
Guides, 5 ; Scope of Work, 6 ; Cook’s Travelling Coupons, 6 ; 
Churches, 6; English Churches, 6 . . . . . . 146 

Switzerland. • 

Area, 7 ; Surface, 7 ; Geology, 8 ; Vegetation, 8 ; Animal' Life, 

8; Manufactures, 9; Language, 9; Religion, 9; Special 
Objects of Interest, Mountains, Waterfalls, Passes, Glaciers, 
Valleys, 9, 10 ; Goitre and Cretinism, 10; The Swiss People, 


Wrestling Matches, 10; History, ii—13. .... 7—13 

Basle 15 

From Basle to Schaffhausen.21 

Neuhausen .......... 22 

Falls of the Rhine. 2 

Schaffhausen .... ...... 24 

From Schaffhausen to Zurich.24 

From Schaffhausen to Constance, by Rail .... 25 

From Schaffhausen to Constance, by Boat .... 25 

. Constance.26 

Lake of Constance ......... 28 

From Constance to Coire (Chur).30 

Rorschach .......... 30 

Ragatz.31 

Coire.32 












VI 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

From Basle to Zurich.34 

I. By Waldshut and Turgi . •.34 

II. By Olten and Turgi.34 

III. By Rheinfelden, Stein, and Brugg ..... 36 

URICH . 37 

Environs of Zurich ......... 41 

Uetliberg ...... .... 41 

Uetliberg Railway ......... 42 

From Zurich to Coire.43 

The Lake of Zurich.. . 43 

The Lake of Wallenstadt. ....... 47 

From Zurich to Einsiedeln, Schweiz, and Brunnen . . 48 

Einsiedeln . ' . 48 

From Zurich to Glarus.52 

Wesen to Glarus ......... 52 

Glarus to Dissentis or Trons . . ..... 52 

Glarus to Ilanz or Films for Coire . . . . . *53 

From Zurich to Romanshorn.53 

From Zurich to Rorschach (by St. Gallen) .... 54 

From Zurich to Lucerne, by Rail.54 

The Lake of Zug. ...... 55 

From Zurich to Zug, by the Albis ...... 56 

From Zurich to the Rigi and Lucerne, by Horgen and the 

Lake of Zug ....... 57 

From Basle TO Lucerne.57 

Lucerne.58 

Lake of Lucerne ......... 63 

Pilatus. 69 

Rigi.70 

From Lucerne to Brieg or Sierre (for Geneva), by the Furca 

Pass ........... 74 

The Rhone Glacier.75 

Brieg. 77 

From Lucerne to Brienz and Meiringen, by the Briinig Pass . 78 

From Meiringen to Interlaken.80 

Falls of the Reichenbach. . . . . ... 81 

Rosenlaui Glacier.. . . .81 

Great Scheideck.82 

Grindelwald. 83 

The Faulhorn .......... 84 

Wengem Alp .......... 85 






















CONTENTS. vii 

PAGE 

Lauterbrunnen.86 

From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier, by the Grimsel, . 87 

Handeck Falls.88 

From Brienz to Berne.90 

Lake of Brienz. ......... 90 

Falls of the Giessbach ..*91 

Interlaken.92 

Thun.95 

Lake of Thun.94 

From Thun to Leuk and Susten, by the Gemmi Pass . . 96 

From Basle to Berne ..97 

Bienne to Berne.97 

Berne.98 

From Berne to Lucerne, by Langnau and Escholzmatt . . 107 

From Berne to Lausanne, by Fribourg.108 

Fribourg .......... 109 

From Basle to Neuchatel, Lausanne, and Geneva. . . 111 

Neuchatel. . . . . . . . . . .113 

Bienne, Chaux-de-Fonds, and Neuchatel . . . . .116 

Pontarlier TO Lausanne, by Vallorbes . . . . .118 

Lausanne TO Martigny.119 

Bex. . . . . . . . . . . .120 

St. Maurice ..120 

Vemayaz..121 

Martigny.122 

Bouveret to Martigny . . . . . . . .122 

Geneva.124 

Environs of Geneva . . . . . . . . 131 

The Lake of Geneva, Northern Bank . . . . .133 

,. ,, Southern Bank ..... 142 

Lausanne.134 

Environs of Lausanne . . ...... 137 

Vevey.138 

Clarens.140 

Chillon.. .... 141 

From Geneva to Chamouny.145 

Chamouny and Environs ........ 148 

Mont Blanc . . . . . . . . . .151 

Tour of Mont Blanc.153 

Aosta to Martigny, by the Great St. Bernard . . . .156 

From Chamouny to Martigny, by the Tete Noire . . . 157 





























vm 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 


From Chamouny to Martigny, by the Col de Balme 

Martigny to Zermatt. 

St. Niklaus ... . . . . 

Zermatt. 

The Riffelberg and Corner Grat 

The Hornli ....... 

Cima di Jazi . . . . . . . 

Monte Rosa ....... 

Environs of Zermatt ...... 

From Zermatt to Vogogna, on the Simplon 

Macugnagna ....... 

From Zermatt to Chatillon .... 

The Theodule Pass ...... 


From Martigny over the Simplon to Arona 
Lucerne over the St. Gothard to Como 
C oiRE over the Splugen to Colico (Como) 
Splugen to Bellinzona, by the San Bernardino 
CoiRE to Andermatt, by the Oberalp. 

CoiRE TO THE Engadine, by the Julier Pass 
CoiRE TO THE En^gadine, by the Albula Pass 
The Engadine 
Samaden . 

Pontresina . 

The Bernina Pass 
The Stelvio Pass 
The Italian Lakes 
Lago Maggiore . 

Borromean Isles. 

The Lake of Como 
,, Lugano 

,, Varese 

„ Orta 

Appendix— 


Pass 


Festivals, Fetes, Fairs, etc 
Heights of Mountains, etc 
Time and Cost of a Tour. 
Specimens of Tours 
List of Hotels . 


159 

160 

160 

161 

162 

163 

164 

165 

165 

166 

168 

169 

169 

170 
172 
177 
180 
182 

184 

185 

185 

186 

187 

188 

188 

189 

189 

190 

191 

193 

193 

193 

194 
204 

206 

207 
218 





















COOK’S 


HANDBOOK 


FOR SWITZERLAND. 

- 4 - 


Jntroduxitorg. 


Luggage.—As conveyance of luggage forms an important item in the expenses 
of a continental tour, this “ necessary evil ” should be condensed as much as may 
be. If possible, the tourist should only take a small trunk or valise, that he 
can carry in his hand. To those who cannot do this, a strong leather portman¬ 
teau is recommended. It should be of simple construction, and possess a good 
lock, so that it can be opened in an instant for Customs Examination. In France, 
as a rule, each passenger is allowed 661 bs. of luggage free, in Holland and many 
parts of Germany 5olbs., but in some districts of Germany, and in Switzerland, 
Belgium, and Italy, all luggage must be paid for (except that which the passenger 
carries in his hand), unless stated otherwise upon the ticket. 

Custom House Examinations are generally made at the station 
nearest the frontier. Thus, between Belgium and Germany luggage is examined 
at Verviers; but if registered through to Cologne by first-class express train, it is 
examined at Cologne. Passengers must always be present at the Custom House 
Examinations, and hand their keys to the examining officer. The Customs 
Examination is one of the greatest drawbacks to the pleasures of foreign travel, * 
but passengers will do well to remember that civility costs nothing, and may pur¬ 
chase much, and that the custom house officers are merely performing a duty^ 
perhaps as disagreeable to themselves as to the traveller. The following is a list 
of stations at which baggage is generally exaniined :— 


Ala 

Avricourt 

Arlon 

Belfort 


Basle 

Bellegarde 

Bodenbach 

Brussels 


Camerlata 

Co.Tio 

Cormons 

Courtray 


1 



2 


INTRODUCTORY. 


Domo d’Ossola 

Lille 

Salzbergen 

Dinan 

Lindau 

Schaft hausen 

Eger 

Lugano 

Splugen 

Elten 

Luxemburg 

Tilburg 

Emmerich 

Modane 

Tournay 

Eydtkuhnen 

Mouscron 

Thionville 

Furth 

Oderberg 

Udine 

Friedrichshafen 

Pagny-sur-Moselle 

Valenciennes 

Goritz 

Paris 

Verviers 

Hazebrouck 

Passau 

Venlo 

Hendaye 

Pontarlier 

Ventimille 

Irun 

Roosendaal 

Zevenaar 

Kufstein 

Salzburg 



And the various Sea and Channel Ports. 


Passports are not at present really required by British travellers on the 
Continent (except for visiting Russia, Turkey, Spain, and Portugal), but at the 
same time a passport is frequently useful, in order to obtain admission to certain 
Museums, to obtain letters from the Paste Restante, and to establish identity when¬ 
ever required. The cost of a passport is very trifling, and may be obtained, if 
desired, through Thos. Cook and Son. 

Language. —So many thousands flock annually over most of the routes 
described in this book, that nothing save the mother-tongue is absolutely essential. 
English is spoken in all the principal hotels, and interpreters may be met with at 
the principal railway-stations. Of course, a knowledge of French and German 
will prove of great advantage, and those who explore remote regions will find it 
indispensable, but no one need hesitate to visit Switzerland on the score of not 
knowing anytliing save English. An hour or two spent in learning French 
and German numerals, and a few phrases, will enable these to combat cab- 
drivers and others who might be disposed to take them in. “ The Tourist’s 
Shilling Conversational Guide,” in English, French, German, and Italian, by 
Dr. J. F. Loth, will be found useful (Cook and Son, Ludgate Circus, or their 
agents). 

Money, if taken in large quantities, should be in circular notes, which may 
be obtained from many of the London bankers. 

Cook’s Circular Notes. Messrs. Cook and Son issue Circular Notes 
of the value of 5 or ,^io sterling, which are accepted at all their continental 
agencies, and by the principal hotel keepers. The chief advantages are safety, as 
they cannot be cashed without the holder’s endorsement, and convenience of 
exchange, at any hour, in small sums of the currency of each country at the full 
rates of exchange. 

English sovereigns are received almost everywhere, and in Switzerland 
may generally be exchanged without loss. Foreign currency is always puzzling, 
and it will be well for every tourist to familiarize himself with the following 
tables:— 


TIME AND MONEY TABLES. 


3 


France, Belgium, Switzerland, and Italy. 

I franc (in Italy Lha) — about gld. 

5 franc piece ( ,, 5 lire) = ,, 4s 

20 franc piece ( „ 20 lire) = ,, 16s. 

10 centimes ( ,, 10 centesime) _ ,, id. 

100 centimes = i franc; loo centesime 1 lira. 

I talian paper currency is much depreciated in value 


North Germany. 

12 pfenninge = i silbergroschen. 

2| silbergroschen = 3d. 
10 silbergroschen = is. 

I mark = 100 pf. = is. 

30 silbergroschen = i thaler = 3s. 

6 thalers 20 silbergroschen i English sovereign. 

20 mark piece (gold) = i English sovereign. 

South Germ.<vny and Austria. 


£1 — 11South German .florins = 

16s = 9 fl. 20 kreut. S. Germany == 


I Austrian florin = 
10 kreut. pieces = 
6 kt ps. S Ger. = 
fl S. Germany = 
i fl. „ = 

30 kr. „ = 

I 5? »» ~ 

3 » >» ~ 


100 kreutzers = 
1 florin. 

9 kt Austria = 
li fl. Austria = 
85 kreut. = 

50 » = 

1-2 — 

4 » = 


10 Austrian florins, 

2S. 

about 2jd. 

3s. 

IS 8d. 

rod. 

■J.d. 

a 

id. 


The Austrian paper currency Is much depreciated, the discount constantly 
varying. 


Holland. 


5 cents 

TOO „ 


= about id. 

I florin or guilder = „ is. yd. 

I gold ducat = „ 9s. 4d. 

I gold 10 florin piece = „ i6s. 6d. 


Time-Tables. —The official time-tables of the railway companies should be 
consulted upon every available opportunity, as alterations are constantly taking 
place; and though such alterations are carefully watched, it is impossible for any 
general time-table to guarantee complete accuracy. “ Cook’s Continental Time- 
Tables and Tourist’s Handbook ” Is published at is. ; post-free, is. zd. 

Postage. —By the recent postal arrangements, letters can be sent to France, 
Switzerland, Italy, etc., at 2^d. under the half-ounce. Thirty centimes (or 3d.) 
is still charged on letters from France or Italy. 


4 


INTRODUCTORY. 


Fees are given by English and Americans with far too avish a hand, and 
much annoyance is caused to other travellers, and injury done to the people in the 
countries visited, by this habit. Porters carrying luggage will generally make 
extortionate demands. Ask the hotel proprietor to pay what is a fair sum. At 
churches and galleries half a franc is quite enough for a couple of persons, as a 
rule, although this may sometimes be increased to a franc. A iOK, or any small 
coin, is sufficient for the legions of beggars besetting one’s way 5 and probably one 
franc put into the box of a local society for relief of the poor would be better spent 
than two francs distributed amongst them in sous. Make a rule of never going 
out without a supply of small coins, however, but never use them lavishly. Let 
the traveller make a favour of giving a ioa, and he will be respected. Never give 
a sou to one beggar in the presence of another. 

Hotels abound, and, as a rule, are good. Unfortunately, a system prevails 
abroad of charging fancy prices, and hotel keepers are not different from their 
brethren in other branches of business. An agreement should always be made, and 
even then it is well to have the bill every other day or so, in order to see how 
things are going. Messrs. Cook and Son supply 

Hotel Coupons} and as they are available at Hotels which can be well 
recommended, every one should provide himself with them. In these pages 
reference is only made to hotels where these Coupons are accepted. (Full par¬ 
ticulars as to Hotels and Hotel Arrangements by Coupons will be found in the 
Appendix ) 

The advantages of taking Hotel Coupons may be briefly summed up as fol¬ 
lows : — 

I. Time, expense, annoyance in bartering, and ultimate dissatisfaction, are 
saved by going to a well-recommended Hotel. 

II. It is a great drawback to pleasure to arrive in a foreign town beset by por¬ 
ters, commissionaires, and rabble, a perfect stranger, and without any definite 
idea where to go. 

III. Letters from home, or telegrams, may be found upon arrival at the Hotel, 
thus saving trouble or expense in sending for them to the Post Office. 

IV. The charges are all fixed, thus obviating the chance of imposition, and 
the disagreeable task of having to drive a bargain at each stopping-place. 

V. The charges being fixed at the lowest sum to insure good accommodation 
at one uniform rate, the tourist is enabled to count the cost of his tour before 
starting. 

VI Travellers with coupons, bespeaking accommodation by letter or telegram, 
are always provided for, even in the busiest seasons, if they inform the hotel 
keeper that they have coupons. - 

Routes should be carefully selected, and plans well digested, before starting} 
and in order to assist in this matter, a list will be found in the Appendix which 
will supply all necessary information. It will be sufficient to mention here the 
principal routes. 


SCOPE OF WORK. 


5 


Via Paris. 


London to Paris, via Newhaven, Dieppe, and Rouen 
» via Folkestone, Boulogne, and Amiens 

,» ,, via Dover and Calais 

There are three principal routes from Paris to Switzerland, namely— 

Paris to Strasbourg and Basle, by Epernay, Chalons, and Nancy 
„ to Basle, by Troyes, Chaumont, and Belfort 
,, to Neuchatel, by Tonnere, Dijon, and Pontarlier 
„ to Geneva, by Dijon and Macon 

Via Holland, Belgium, and the Rhine, 


London to Harwich, 
,, Harwich, 

„ Sheerness, 

„ Dover, 


Boat to Rotterdam 
„ Antwerp 

„ Flushing (Vlessingen) 
,, Ostend 


Or by Boat direct from London to Rotterdam 
,t ») Antwerp 

Ostend 


» 


The routes from either Rotterdam, Antwerp, Flushing, or Ostend are various. 
Those who wish to get quickly into Switzerland should go by the Luxembourg 
route direct to Basle or Zurich. 

For the Rhine journey the steamboat should be taken at Cologne or Bonn, 
and quitted at Bingen or Mayence. 

Travellers who wish to combine a visit to the Black Forest with the Rhine 
trip should proceed to Heidelberg, thence to Baden, and by the new Baden States 
Railwav to Singen and SchafEnausen ; or continue by rail from Baden to Freiburg, 
and then on foot or by carriage^through some of the most charming scenery of 
the Forest to Waldshut and Basle. 

For detailed information as to all these routes see “ Cook’s Tourist’s Handbook 
to Holland, Belgium, and the Rhine,” and “ Cook’s Tourist’s Handbook to the 
Black Forest.” 

Time for Visiting Switzerland. —From the beginning of June to 
the end of September. For the Tourist who intends to confine his travels to 
well-beaten tracks, even May and October may be included; but these months 
cannot be recommended. Mountain climbers will find the end of July and the 
month of August most suitable for their excursions. 

Guides. — Certificated Guides may be found at all the principal centres for 
excursions. The fee should not exceed eight francs for a day, but it is necessary to 
make a bargain. Guides are altogether unnecessary for such well-beaten tracks as 
the Rigi, Scheideck, Grimsel, etc.; but for glacier routes, or difficult passes, thej 


6 


INTRODUCTORY. 


are invaluable. Twenty pounds* weight of baggage may be given to the guide to 
carry ; but this is the limit, and it is best to give him as little as possible. 

Scope of ^WorR. —It is not intended in this work to give precise infor¬ 
mation as to excursions among the High Alps, nor to mark out minutely the 
thousand excursions that may be made to obscure and comparatively unknown 
places. For such there are special works provided. In the present volume such 
information only is given as it is thought will be found useful to the ordinary 
Tourist. 

Cook’s Travelling Coupons are now so well known and universally 
used, that they need but little description. Suffice it to say, that if there are 
advantages in knowing of cheap, comfortable, and well recommended Hotels 
wherein to rest, there ai'e a hundredfold more in having all the difficulties of travel 
made smooth. The most inexperienced may avail themselves of them without fear 
cf not being able to get on, and the most experienced take them as the simplest, 
easiest, and cheapest means of travelling. 

Churches should be visited in the morning, as they are then open free, and 
can be viewed with greater pleasure on account of the light. Moreover, it is a 
great saving in expense, as later in the day a fee is demanded or expected by the 
sacristan who opens them for visitors. It will not be taken unkindly by the 
tourist to be reminded that the many attractions in Continental churches some¬ 
times cause him to forget that they are places of ivorship ; and if for his own 
convenience and pleasure he visits them at times when they are frequented by 
worshippers, he should be careful to abandon the use of opera-glasses, guide-books, 
and other accessories, if they are likely to prove a hindrance to the devotions of 
others Unfortunately, this has been disregarded so much—and notably by 
English and Americans—that it has been found necessary in some churches to 
write over the entrance, “Honour is due to God’s house.” A word to the wise 
is enough. 

English Churches are not mentioned specially in this work, as in every 
Hotel frequented by the English, notices are abundant in which the time and place 
ot service are recorded. Changes are often made, too, both as regards the place 
and the time, according to the season of the year, but no difficulty will be iound 
in obtaining accurate information. 



V 





Area, Population. —Switzerland, or Schweiz (Germ ), Suisse (Fr.), 
Svirrera (Ital.), Helvetia (Latin), includes an area of nearly 16,000 square 
miles, being about 206 miles in length, by 139 at its greatest breadth. Its bound¬ 
aries are, in most places, grandly defined by river, lake, or mountain. The popu¬ 
lation in 1870 was 2,659,120. 

Surface. —The surface of Switzerland is very varied, rising from 678 feet 
on the shore of Lago Maggiore, or 800 feet on the banks of the Rhine at 
Basle, to 15,226 feet at the summit of Monte Rosa. More than half the extent 
of Switzerland is occupied by the Alps j between these and the Juras to the west 
is a plain, with a hilly country to the northward. 

The Alps are ranged about a central spot west of the St. Gothard Pass, where 
about a hundred square miles of rocks, etc,, lie above the limits of perpetual snow, 
and the Galenstock, Gletscherhorn, Dichterhorn, and other important peaks, rise 
to the height of ten or twelve thousand feet. The waters from this elevated 
region pass by the Rhine to the German Ocean, by the Rhone to the Mediter - 
ranean, by the Po to the Adriatic, and by the Danube to the Black Sea. 

From this mountain knot a chain extends northward towards the Lake of 
Lucerne, including the Titlis (11,406 feet), and the Urner Rothstock (10,063 
feet). Southward runs a chain of mountains averaging from 6000 to 7000 feet. 
Westward run the Bernese and Lepontine Alps, whilst the two branches of the 
Rhaetian Alps diverge to the east. f 

The basin of the Upper Rhone (Canton Valais), and the Valley of the Rhone, f 
92 miles in length, are important features of the map of Switzerland. As far as 
Brieg, the Rhone Valley is about half a mile wide. Near Visp it widens, and 
several very interesting lateral valleys join it. The river finally debouches into 
Lake Leman, through about eight miles of swampy ground very little higher than 
the level of the lake. 

The Bernese Alps north of the Rhone Valley form one of the grandest fea* 
tures of Switzerland. Six hundred square miles of ice and snow and savage moun¬ 
tain scenery lie between the valley of Hasli and the valley of Kander. The dis¬ 
trict is intersected by two or three fine valleys, and abounds in numerous lofty 
peaks, splendid glaciers, mountain passes, torrents, etc., etc., of which attractions 
the more striking will be found duly noted in subsequent pages of this volume. 



8 


SWITZERLAND. 


The Pennine Alps lie west of the Simplon Pass, stretching southward to Monte 
Rosa (15,226 feet), and then westward to Mont Blanc. They include Mont 
Cervin (14,764 feet), and several other peaks of somewhat less altitude. Towards 
the east and south the ascent is steep, and cultivation creeps up the base of lofty 
mountains ; but towards the north for many miles the elevation is above the line 
of perpetual snow. 

The Lakes of Switzerland are another prominent natural feature. The Lake 
of Geneva, with its diversified scenery and varied associations, literary, legendary, 
and historic; the Lake of Lucerne, surrounded by the sacred ground of Swiss 
history—at one point charming with its tranquil beauty, at another awe-inspiring 
with its rugged grandeur j the Lakes of Zurich, Thun, and Brienz, so thoroughly 
characteristic of Switzerland j and the frontier and Italian Lakes of Lugano, 
Como, etc., which may easily be included in the tour, are amongst the prin¬ 
cipal. 

Geology. —In all the loftiest Alpine chains granite is found mostly in con¬ 
junction with gneiss and mica slate. In many parts, especially on the Great 
and Little St. Bernard, and south of the St. Gothard, granular limestone is abun¬ 
dant; and the celebrated mountain limestone appears on the Diablerets, Dent du 
Midi, etc.; and Jura limestone has become a term descriptive of a special variety. 
Particles of gold are found in the sands of several of the Swiss rivers, but not in 
sufficient quantity to repay the search. In the Grisons are some abandoned lead 
and copper mines. Iron is widely diffused through the whole country. Rock- 
salt is found in Vaud j alabaster, marble, su’phur, and gypsum are also named 
amongst Swiss productions j and the asphalte (from the Val de Travers, etc.) has 
become of late a prominent object in the streets of London and other great cities. 
There are many mineral springs, as at Leuk, St. Moritz, etc. Coal of an 
inferior quality is found in the Cantons of Fribourg, Vaud, Basle, and Thutgau. 

Vegetation, Agriculture, etc. —Few countries present a more varied 
aspect in this respect than Switzerland. Seven distinct regions mark the differing 
circumstances under which cultivation is carried on — 

I. Up to 1700 or 1800 feet the vine flourishes. 

II. The hilly or Lower Mountain Region, up to about 2800 feet, contains 
abundance of walnut-trees and good meadows. 

III. The mountain district, up to 4100 feet, is chiefly distinguished by its 
forest timber. The pastures and fields of barley and oats are good. 

IV. The sub-Alpine region, up to 5500 feet, is characterized by pine forests 
and good grass land ; a few kitchen vegetables are grown. 

V. The lower Alpine region extends to 6500 feet, and is the region of the 
celebrated Alpine pastures. 

VI. The Alpine region, where, in proximity to glaciers, etc., only a stunted 
vegetation is found. Summer lasts about five or six weeks. 

VII. The region of perpetual snow, above 8000 feet. 

Animal Life.—The horned cattle of Switzerland are nearly a million in 
number, a large proportion of which are milch cows. The chief game are the 


SPECIAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST. g 

chamois, hare, marmot, and partridge. Fish, especially trout, abound in the lakes 
and rivers j the salmon is found in the Aar, the Rhine, and Lake Zurich 

Manufactures, etc. —There are manufactures of silks, ribbons, and 
cotton goods in various parts of Switzerland, the principal being at Zurich and 
Winterthur. Basle exports silk ribbons to a large extent, also leather, paper, and 
tobacco. Geneva is famous for its watches and musical boxes. Watches are also 
largely manufactured in Lode and La Chaux-de-Fonds. 

Language. —German dialects are spoken in about three-fourths of \ 
Switzerland. In Geneva, Vaud, Neuchatel, and parts of Berne, Fribourg, and 
Valais, French is the language (written and spoken) of the educated classes. In 
Ticino, and some of the southern valleys, Italian is spoken. The dialects known 
as Romansch and Ladin prevail through about half the Grisons. 

Religion. —Calvinistic Protestantism predominates, but there is no State / 
Church, and all religions are tolerated. Since 1847 the Religious Houses have 
been suppressed. 

Special Objects of Interest. —Besides the delightful character of 
the ever-varying Swiss scenery, the country has many attractions of a special 
character. 

The Mountains are an unfailing source of enjoyment. General views of 
mountain scenery can be obtained from two or three points in the city of Berne, 
from the Dole near Geneva, the Faulhorn near Grindelwald, Weissenstein, near 
Soleure, the Rigi near Lucerne, etc , etc. Nearer views of mountain scenery are 
obtained from various points in the Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa districts, also in 
the Bernese Oberland, etc. The grand views from the Belle Alp by Brieg j the 
Brevent byChamouny j the Eggischorn by Viesch 5 the Piz Languard by Pontresina ; 
and the Sidelhorn near the Grimsel, and many others, are within the reach of 
moderate climbers without serious difficulty. 

Waterfalls are very numerous. The Fall of the Rhine at Schaffhausen 
that of the Aare at Handeck (full, lofty, and grandly situated), the misty Staub- 
bach, Schmadribach, Reichenbach, G iessba ch, and many others, will be duly noted 
at their proper places. 

The Mountain Passes are of three kinds—l. Carriage Passes, such as the 
Simplon, St. Gothard, Spliigen, etc. j 2. Mule Pas ses, as the Col de Balme, 
Grimsel, Scheideck, Gemmi, etc. j 3. Glacier Passes, as the Strahleck, Tschingel, 

S. Theodule, etc. Surpassingly grand are the ravines by which some of these 
passes are approached ; as, for instance, the Via Mala and the Gasterenthal. The 
sloping meadows seen at lofty elevations in crossing these lofty elevations are called 
“ Alps,” whence the appropriation of the name to the mountains themselves. Here 
and there are the rude structures for dairy purposes known as Chalets, where 
refreshments can generally be obtained. 

The Glaciers are perhaps the most wonderful of Alpine marvels. Around 
the loftiest peaks the snow, falling and accumulating in the adjacent ravines, 
becomes crystallized by ever-increasing pressure into solid ice, and is forced down¬ 
ward by constant accumulation towards the valleys. At Grindelwald, Chamoun y 



10 


SWITZERLAND. 


Zermatt, etc., these Glaciers can be inspected at the extremities of the off¬ 
shoots thus thrust downwards towards the cultivated districts. But to realize their 
true wildness and grandeur, the traveller must venture to explore the Seas of Ice 
{^Eismeer, Mers de Glace) from whence they spring. Of these Ice Seas the 
most remarkable are those surrounding Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, and the Finster- 
aarhorn.’ The latter is probably the largest ice-field in Europe, covering over 120 
square miles, and sending out more than a dozen branches towards the valleys 
below. By the constant pressure, alternate melting and freezing, and other causes? 
these Glaciers are kept in constant motion, disappearing to feed the rivers at their 
bases, whilst afresh supplied from the regions of eternal snow at their summits. 
Down the middle or along the sides of the Glaciers are the huge accumulations of 
rubbish thrown up by the glacial motion, and known as Moraines. The deep 
fissures common in most Glaciers are called Crev asses . The Avalanches, as 
probably most readers will already be aware, are huge masses of snow and ice, dis¬ 
engaged by the heat of the sun, and rolling down the mountain-side. 

The Valleys of Switzerland are exceedingly beautiful. The Haslithal, 
Simmenthal, Vale of Sarnen, and many others, will be found to afford much 
enjoyment, especially to those who prefer tranquil and yet romantic loveliness, 
without the fatigue and difficulty of ascending great heights. 

Goitre and Cretinism are physical complaints still prevalent in some 
parts of Switzerland. The former is a remarkable glandular swelling in the neck, 
the latter a species of idiocy. These complaints are limited to certain low-lying 
districts, and appear to be owing to deficient sanitary arrangements or local exhala¬ 
tions. 

The Swiss People, says Laing, “are the Dutch of the mountains 5 
the same cold, unimaginative, money-seeking, yet vigorous, determined, energetic 
people.” In the parts most frequented by tourists the Swiss are certainly notorious 
for their efforts to extort money from the travellers j but probably other tourist- 
haunted spots nearer home might furnish instances of similar rapacity. The Swiss 
are great lovers of freedom, and at the same time display an unbounded reverence 
for antiquity j and amongst the upper classes they are exceedingly reserved and 
exclusive in their social arrangements. 

The Government of Switzerland consists of a Federal Assembly, comprising 
a National Council and a Council of States—the former containing one delegate 
for every 20,000 inhabitants, the latter having two members for each canton. This 
Assembly elects a supreme Federal Council of seven. Every adult male in Switzer¬ 
land is trained to military service. 

The country consists of 22 political divisions, called Cantons, of which the 
Grisons, containing 2900 square miles, is the largest, and Zug, containing 85 square 
miles, the smallest. The Swiss population for the whole country is 165 to the 
square mile, or 24.4. to the square mile if Alpine Switzerland be excepted. Geneva 
is the most densely populated canton, having 847 to the square mile ; whilst in 
the Grisons, the least populous, there are only 33 to the square mile. 

Wrestling Matches {Schwmgfeste') between the men of various Cantons, 


HISTORY. 


11 

and the Tir Federal, or general riflej^hooting .cao.t^st, held once in two years, 
and similar to our annual Volunteer gathering at Wimbledon, are interesting occa¬ 
sions. The dates of some of the more important will be found in the Travellers’ 
Calendar at the end of this volume. 

History. —Not in the pages of the historian, but beneath the surface of her 
laltes, are found the earliest records of human existence in the country now called 
Switzerland. As we shall have occasion to show hereafter, the earliest inhabitants 
seem to have been a mysterious race, who dwelt in houses reared on piles above 
the waters of the lakes, and who used stone where we should now use 
metal. 

But leaving this primeval race, history shows us the Rhaeti, of supposed 
Etruscan origin, retreating before the advances of the Celtic Helvetii, into the 
mountainous regions of Eastern Switzerland. Then, in the first century of our 
era, Rome comes upon the scene, brings Helvetii and Rhaeti alike into subjection, 
founds colonies, constructs roads, and spreads Latin civilization. Save only during 
the brief rebellion of a.d. 69, promptly suppressed by Cecina, the country re¬ 
mained subject to the Roman power till the downfall of the latter. 

And now, as in other outskirts of the Roman Empire, the native population, 
led to rely on Roman protection, and enervated by Roman luxury, became speedily 
subjected to the fierce, barbaric tribes that were swarming from the overcrowded 
regions to which Roman prowess had hitherto confined them. The Burgundians 
occupied Western Switzerland, and made Geneva their capital, the fierce Alemanni 
settled on the banks of the Rhine, and Theodoric with his Goths seized moun¬ 
tainous Rhaetia. 

The Franks next appear under Clovis, driving out the Alemanni in a.d. 496, 
defeating the Burgundians in a.d. 534, becoming masters of all Helvetia, and, as 
the Italo-Gothic kingdom declined, conquering Rhaetia also. These conquests 
culminated in the great Empire of Charlemagne, who introduced the feudal system. 
Meanwhile, Christianity had been disseminated amongst the Burgundians in the 
fifth century, and amongst the Alemmni by Columbus and his disciples in the 
seventh century. These monks preached the gospel, destroyed the idols, built the 
chapels at St. Gall, Dissentis, Zurich, and elsewhere, introduced the cultivation of 
the vine and corn, and in other ways aided in the culture and enlightenment 
of the people. 

At the dissolution of the Frank Empire, Eastern Switzerland became united to 
Suabia, and Western Switzerland to the kingdom of Burgundy. Early in the 
eleventh century the Burgundian power declined, and Rudolph III., in 1016, made 
over his kingdom to the Emperor Henry II. of Germany : for the German 
Emperors the Dukes of Zaringia acted as vicegerents; and these latter found it 
their policy to protect the towns, in order to curb the old Burgundian nobles, who 
continued troublesome. From this period, Berne, Fribourg, and other important 
places date their origin. 

But the feudal lords of the soil, in course of time, grew more powerful, and 
less mindful of the imperial rule 5 and to preserve their liberties, the Swiss free 


12 


SWITZERLAND. 


towns were compelled to treat with the nobles. One of the most important of 
these was Count Rudolph of Hapsburg, with whom Zurich and the three Cantons 
of Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden entered into alliance. He assisted the towns in 
maintaining their independence, and, after becoming Emperor, continued the same 
policy. 

His son Albert pursued a different line of conduct—attempted to make 
Switzerland an integral part of the Hapsburg possessions, and sent Austrian 
bailiffs to oppress the country. The Swiss rose in revolt. The three forest Can¬ 
tons, led on by Arnold, and Furst, and Stauffacher, confederated to protect their 
liberties in 1307 (see p. 67). To this period belong the Tell legends. 

For more than two hundred years Switzerland maintained a struggle for inde¬ 
pendence, defeating the Austrians at the memorable fields of Morgarten in 1307, 
Sempach in 1386, N'afels in 1388, and at the Stoss in 1405. Equally important 
were the victories over the feudal nobles at Laupen in 1339, and over Charles the 
Bold and the Burgundian forces at Grandson and Morat in 1476. 

In 1499, having refused to aid Maximilian in his war with France, that 
Emperor struck the final blow at Swiss independence in what is known as the 
Suabian war. But 6000 Confederates defeated 15,000 Austrians at Dornach, and 
henceforth the country was only nominally subject to the Emperors, and even this 
connection was formally relinquished in 1648. 

During these long external struggles Switzerland had increased and internally 
developed. Lucerne joined the confederacy in 1322-, Zurich and Glarus in 1351, 
Zug and Berne in 1352, in which year a Federal Diet was established. In 1422, 
Valais allied herself as an independent State. Soleure and Fribourg came in in 
1481, and Basle and Schaffhausen in 1501. In 1513 Appenzell was received, 
thus completing the thirteen Cantons which constituted Switzerland till the French 
Revolution in 1798. 

The Reformation of Religion was commenced in Switzerland by the pro¬ 
clamation of the new doctrine at Zurich in 1523 j and under the teachings of 
Zwinglius, and subsequently of Calvin and Favel, a large proportion of the popu¬ 
lation of the country embraced Protestantism, and in 1532 the Helvetic Confession 
of Faith was put forth. Unfortunately, for a long period. Catholics and Pro¬ 
testants would not agree amicably to differ, and no less than three sanguinary 
religious wars ensued, viz., in 1531, in 1653, and in 1712, the last being ended by 
the Peace of Aarau. 

It seems that, afcer the cessation of the wars for independence, the Swiss had 
become satiated by their conquests. Swiss valour became individual rather than 
national, and her soldiers were notorious as the mercenary champions of any cause 
that could afford to pay for their services. Swiss Guards were the last prop of the 
expiring Bourbon monarchy at the close of the eighteenth century j and by a stroke 
of bitter irony, the country of those brave hirelings became very shortly the prey 
of the very people whose rising aspirations for freedom they had been paid to sup¬ 
press. Vainly at Rothenthurm and Stans did Aloys Reding, and other patriots of 
the ancient stamp essay to stem the progress of the French Republicans. The 


HISTORY. 


13 

country was conquered, and, In reality, annexed, though a so-called Helvetian 
Republic was established. 

In 1802, Buonaparte restored the Cantonal system, under the protection of 
France. In 1815 the Allied Sovereigns acknowledged the independence of 
Switzerland. The Cantons, now twenty-two in number, were united under a 
constitution providing that a Federal Diet should be held alternately at Berne, 
Zurich, and Lucerne. In 1830, several Cantons introduced important changes in 
a democratic direction. These changes, especially the suppression of monasteries 
and ejection of the Jesuits, were opposed by other Cantons, who, in 1841, joined 
in the league known as the Sonderbund. This organized opposition had to be 
put down by force in i 847. In the following year a new Constitution, of a more 
Liberal and Protestant character, was adopted, and Berne was made the permanent 
seat of Government. Since that time the history of Switzerland has been a record 
of peaceful and rapid progress, large development of the national resources, and 
facilities of intercommunication. 





















i 

/•» 'll* 

i " "f' 

4 , . >■ • 



•■T' 


i. 

4 < 






,r 








If 





i 






w 


tt^.- 


5, 

t 




I 



^•* 

il 















ft I 




>: '« •> . 


r* 


y« 






» 1 


Jr 




t 



p 



C'OOIvS 

RAILWAY MAP 

SWITZERLAND, 

S AVO Y, 

The ITALIAN LAKES Ac. 

Jin^rth Miles 

lO 15 ao _a 5 _ 30 

JirtUwavs fihown. thus 
over yvhirh 

Coolc'sTijckets aj*c tivaiJahlv 
Steamer Boittes 
Dih'^erxee &c. . 



Entgred-ai. St auoners Hall. 


IiOn^. East 8 of Gj^eeuw^icli 


^iA_K,Jcilnie*oc. Edinburg- 










































































































BALE, BASLE, OR BASEL 
(Hotel Trois Rois.) 

(A very fine hotel, beautifully situated ^ ^ • 

the Rhine and opposite bank.) ^ view of 

Omnibus, I franc. Carriage, fenc; ^ fanes if ‘ n 
than two persons. Dianes, it more 

The Central Station is on the S side of n. . 
mile from the Bridge and Hotel Trois Rois. Hus 

HllHHis^ttion?"- BadZH 
derif^^HtsHrBUiiS 

rr Rhine^. TH:! /XH the rSto 
-Great Basie on the left bank, and Little Basle Xhe Hi’hr' 
The geographical position of Basle is very interes in<r ,7‘;ii 
the late war u was at the junction of Switzerland, F aL and 
Germany. There was a spot near Kleinhuningen where h ^ 
said a man inight plant his foot on all three comtries afoncT'' 
The inhabitants of Basle have alwavs hcrl i-h u ^ once. 
being thrifty traders, and the charger/usurv 
“-n they also earned the fotorie“ I rnctm pfa 
which attaches to the quarrelsome; and as [ate as thXar iT,’ 
the city Basle and the country Basle were ensaired Ir, / ^ 
on so small a scale as would have rendered it rfa' ? ^ 
the bloodshed and death in whXtreXd W th 
the belligerent canton has been divided into two f 

of the Swiss Diet. Each half canton haf^n^nd^p ndeift “vot" 
but only one senator is returned to the StanderaA ^ ’ 

Basle has been the scene of several important treaties of 


i 6 


BASLE. 


peace j between the Prussians, Spanish, and French, in i 795 » 
and in the same year between Spain and France, when the latter 
gave up the provinces south of the Pyrenees in exchange for a 
portion of the Island of St. Domingo, since lost to them. One 
or two important Councils have been held at Basle, notably 
that in 1431, convened by Pope Martin V., to suppress the 
heresies of the Hussites. 

Among the celebrated men for whom Basle is famous may 
be mentioned : John and Charles Bernouilh, the mathema¬ 
ticians 3 BuxtorJ an eminent professor of Oriental languages 3 
CEcoIawpadius and Grynceus. Holbein commenced his career in 
Basle 3 Erasmus resided here in the house Zur Lust, near the 
Munster 3 and Euler, (he celebrated mathematician, was born in 
Basle. 

The best starting-point for a tour of the town is the Three 
Kings Hotel, a place of historic interest, if the following 
statement may be accepted ;— 

“ Basle was founded by the Romans at an early period 
(perhaps already in the second century). The Alemanni, how¬ 
ever, destroyed it about the beginning of the fifth century 3 but 
when that savage nation was itself subjugated by Clovis, Basle 
passed likewise under the sceptre of that prince, and remained 
under the dominion of the Frank monarchs till 912, when 
Rodolphus II., sovereign of the newly-established kingdom of 
Little Burgundy, offered Basle his protection against the ferocious 
Normans and Hungarians, who infested the German empire at 
that time. Notwithstanding this promised support, the town 
was entirely devastated and burnt down by the Hungarians. 

“ In the year 1004 the rebuilt city was restored to the Ger¬ 
man empire by Rodolphus HI., who bequeathed his kingdom 
of Little Burgundy to the Emperor Henry If., and gave the 
town of Basle as a pledge of his promise. In 1024, Henry's 
successor, Conrad 11 ., and the son of this monarch, Henry HI. 
(already elected as German Emperor) had an interview with 
Rodolphus III., King of Burgundy, in a field near Muttenz, in 
the neighbourhood of Basle 3 after which deliberation the three 
sovereigns entered the town together, and are said to have 
alighted and signed their agreement at the old inn, which stood 
on the spot where this house now stands, and which, from this 
circurustance, took the name of ‘ Hotel of the Three Kings.’ ” 

Maximilian Misson, who visited Basle in 1690, says, in his 
Instructions to Travellers,”—“At Basle, lodge at the ‘ Three 
Kings,’ where you will be well entertained.” 


BASLE. 


17 

Close by the Hotel is the Wooden Bridge (280 yards), 
which connects Gross-Basel with Klein-Basel. This is a very 
favourite resort is summer evenings j the views up and down 
the river are good. The tourist will watch with interest the 
rafts coming down the river, and note the dexterity with which 
they are shot under the bridge. No boat can force its way 
against the mighty current here save one, and that is ingeniously 
contrived to propel itself by the current. It is a curious but 
simple contrivance, and is worth the price of the fare just to 
cross and recross. 

The Miinster, one of the finest Protestant churches in 
the world, is but a short distance from the bridge ^ its two tall 
towers (220 feet high) are conspicuous. It was built by the 
Emperor Henry II. (1010—1019), and has several times since 
been rebuilt or restored. The west front presents a very striking 
appearance. On either side are statues of St. George (left) 
and St. Marlin (right). By the doorway, representations of the 
Emperor Henry, who founded the church, and Helena, his 
wife. Above, the Virgin and Child. 

The northern entrance is graced with a curious representation 
of the parable of the wise and foolish virgins. 

The interior, thoroughly restored and re-decorated in 
1855, contains some objects of interest. Open free, Tuesdays 
and Thursdays, 2 till 4. Other times a small fee. The organ 
(performance once or twice a week in the summer, between 
6 and 7, one franc), was built in 1858, and is a very fine instru¬ 
ment. It is supported by the old rood loft of 1381. Stone 
pulpit, date 1324. Font, 1465. Monument to Eras¬ 
mus, the learned editor of the New Testament, and one of 
the harbingers of the Reformation. Choir. Tomb of 
Empress Anne, wife of Rudolph of Hapsburg. Stained-glass 
windows by Swiss artists. A stairway leads from the choir to 
the Concilium Saal (Council Hall). It was the scene of 
the councils held between 1431 and 1443, and remains now 
exactly as it was then. It contains, among other curiosities, 
the fragments of the Dance of Death, commemorating the 
plague. I'he frescoes were not painted by Holbein, as was 
formerly supposed. Beneath the Council Hall, in the chapel 
of S. Nicholas, is the Lallenkonig, a curious head which 
formerly stood on the bridge, and every time the clock struck 
it protruded its tongue, in derision of the inhabitants of Klein. 
Basel, with whom the people of Gross-Basel were on unfriendly 
terms. The cloisters are extensive, and were used as a burial- 


BASLE. 


]8 

place for many centuries. Close by is the Pfalz, a pleasant 
promenade, planted with chestnut trees 5 it is between 70 and 
80 ft. above the Rhine, and commands fine views of the hills 
of the Black Forest. 

Between the bridge and the Munster is the Museum. (Open 
free, Sundays 10—12, Wednesdays 2—4. Other times i franc.) 
Its chief attraction is a collection of paintings and drawings by 
the younger Holbein. There are other works of value and 
interest. Notice especially in the Holbein Room— 

13. Portrait of Boniface Amberbach, a friend of the painter, 

who formed this collection of his works. 

14. Erasmus. 

20. Holbein’s wife and children. 

21. Lais Corinthiaca. (Madame von Offenburg). 

23. Venus with Cupid. ,, 

26. The Passion of Christ. (Eight compartments.) 

34. Froben, the printer. 

In the collection of modern Swiss artists, notice— 

146. A Mountain Festival .... Stuckelberg. 
130. Watering the Cattle . ... F. Koller. 

In the Birmann collection— 

266. Nativity ...... Annibale Caracci. 

291. Smoker ........ Teniers. 

Modern German school— 

331. Macbeth and the Witches .... y. Koch, 

361. The death of Joseph .... Overbeck. 

The collection of drawings is very good. 

In addition to the picture gallery, there is a good collection 
of antiquities, found, for the most part, at Augst, the site 
of an old Roman colony— Augusta Rauracorum, six miles from 
Basle—and other curiosities. 

In the same building is the Public Library, with nearly 
100,000 volumes, and a collection of MSS., including writings 
of the Reformers. The University, close by, was founded 
in 1460. Bernouilli and Euler were professors here. 

In the market-place is the Ratbhaus (Town Hall). 
Built 1308, restored 1826. The arms of the canton Basle 
adorn the facade, and in front of the inner court is a statue of 
Munatius Plancus, the supposed founder of Basle and Augst. 

Near here, in the Freien-Strasse, is the Post Office, a 
very old building restored, and in the immediate vicinity are 
several buildings dating from about the sixteenth century. 

The Arsenal (Zeughaus), contains a collection of armour, 


BASLE. 


19 

Burgundian cannon, etc. The principal curiosity is a suit of 
chain armour worn by Charles the Bold at the Battle of Nancy. 

A short distance from the Arsenal is a very beautiful 
Fountain, the Spahlenbrunnen, representing a bag-piper, 
designed, probably, by Albert Diirer. The Spahlenthor, or 
Gate of St. Paul, built in the fourteenth century, is very fine. 

The churches of Basle are— 

The Barfiisser Church, fourteenth century. (Not 
used now as a place of worship.) 

The Church of S. Elizabeth, the most magnificent 
modern building in Basle. It is in the Gothic style, and is the 
gift of one Christopher Mirian, a merchant of Basle, who left 
an enormous sum (nearly a quarter of a million) for its erection. 
Good stained-glass windows. 

Church of St. Martin, where QEcolampadius preached 
the doctrines of the Reformation. The English Church Service 
is performed here. 

Basle has long been celebrated for its philanthropists, and 
there are at the present time, in admirable working order, a 
number of good institutions for the social, moral, and religious 
w'elfare of the people. Among them are the Protestant 
Missionary and Bible Society, Missionary School, Society for the 
Promotion of the Public Welfare, besides asylums, and other 
benevolent institutions. 

The Central Railway Station, on the S. side of the 
town,is handsome. On the exterior, reliefs of Newton, Humboldt, 
Laplace, and Euler. It will be observed that there are also two 
clocks, which differ by twenty-two minutes. One shows the 
Paris time, the other the time of Basle. Much interest attaches 
to the time in Basle, as the following will show:— 

“ Everybody knows how, until the end of the last century, 
it was a part of the religion of the people of Basle to keep their 
clocks an hour in advance of those of the rest of the world. It 
is somewhat remarkable, however, that the origin of so singular 
a practice should not be more clearly traced. One theory 
accounts for it, by the supposition that the people of Basle 
were an hour lazier thati other people, and required this notable 
device in order to keep them up to the mark. Another, is that 
the town clock having been struck by lightning, and the hand 
forced an hour forward, the superstition of the people prevented 
them from interfering with what they considered to be the act 
of heaven. A third is, that the attempt of an enemy to surprise 
the town at a certain appointed hour, was defeated by the town 


20 


ENVIRONS OF BASLE, 


clock, which was to have given the signal, striking an hour in 
advance, and thus deceiving them into the belief that they were 
too late: in grateful commemoration of which this tribute of 

7 O 

respect was paid to bad clock-making—like that of the Romans 
to the geese, which saved the Capitol. A fourth theory—and 
that which finds favour in the eyes of the respectable traveller, 
Coxe—is, that it is owing to the fact of the choir of the cathe¬ 
dral being built at a little deviation from the due east, which 
consequently produced-a corresponding variation upon the sun¬ 
dial which was affixed to it. Whatever the origin of the 
practice might be, it was considered by the people of Basle as 
an integral part of their constitution; and every proposition 
made in the council to alter it, met with a signal defeat.” In 
1799 they were put right, how'ever, and Basle now keeps 
“ railway time.” 

Basle is rapidly rising in the estimation of tourists, and a day 
or two may be spent here with pleasure. Inhere are good 
Swimming Baths, a Reading Club, and a handsome new 
Theatre is in course of erection ; and the Zoological Gardens, 
which are planned on an extensive scale, will prove a great 
attraction. 

In the environs of Basle are some charming walks and 
drives. About three-quarters of a mile from the town is the 
Battle Field of St, Jacob, where, in 1444, 1300 Swiss 
withstood an army of 40,000 French, under the command of the 
Dauphin of France, at that time a confederate of the Austrians. 
The latter army perished, only ten escaping alive, and the battle 
of St. Jacob is still referred to as the Thermopylae of Swiss 
history. The vineyards near here produce a red wine called 
Schweitzer Blut (Swiss Blood). It was not till 1872 that a 
monument was erected to their memory. It is a very fine 
one by F. SchLoth, and bears the inscription, “ Our souls to 
God, our bodies to the enemy.” Well worth seeing. 

AugSt, six miles. A few Roman remains. 

Arlesheim, six miles. Formerly summer residence of 
Bishops of Basle. Fine English park surrounding the ruined 
castle of Birseck. 

Benedictine Convent of Manastein, six miles. 

Very picturesque. 

Huningen, three miles. A great establishment for 
pisciculture. 


RHEINFELDEN. 


21 


BASLE TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. 

Station of the Baden Railway in Klein-Basel (p. 15). Time, 
3 hours. 

Grenzack. —A very good wine grown here. IVIiylen, 

Rheinfelden, on the left bank of the Rhine, is a little 
walled town, thoroughly Swiss j it is partly built with the ruins 
of the old Roman settlement, Augusta Rauracorum, founded 
by Munatius Plancus (p. 18). Basel Augst (p. 18) is 

about 3 miles from here. Rheinfelden was one of the border 
forts of the Holy Roman Empire: many battles were fought 
around it during the Thirty Years’ War 3 it sustained numerous 
sieges, until, in 1744, it was taken by the French, and all its 
fortifications levelled. It has formed part of Switzerland since 
1801. The Covered Bridge, the Upper Gate, and the Stork’s 
Nest Tower, are curious and interesting. There are some 
famous salt-works in the vicinity of the town, and baths. The 
Rhine here narrows, and rushes in a foaming torrent, forming 
the Hdllenhaken. 

Sdckingen (Hotel Schutzen).— A fine old Abbey Church. 

Klein-Lauffenhurg. —A covered bridge connects it with 

LauITenburg (from Lauffen, cataracts). — An ancient 
Castle here. The Rhine is here very picturesque, passing 
through a rocky channel, where it forms a series of cataracts, 
impossible for loaded boats to pass. Good salmon fishing. 

WaldsllUt (Hotel Kuhner, near the Station) is a walled 
town, and a railway junction (pop. 1000). It is on the margin 
of the Black Forest. 

Hochenschwand, the highest village in the Fcrest, and 
commanding a magnificent view of the Alps (see Cook’s 
“Handbook to Black Forest”), is about 10 miles from 
here. Waldshut is an uninteresting town, an! has not a vestige 
of holiday attraction about it. Entering by a gate, there is 
before the traveller one long street, terminated by another gate, 
and this is the whole of Waldshut. Some of the houses are 
old, with large, projecting gables and cranes. The shutters to 
all the windows throughout the town are green. The church 
is whitewashed inside, and contains nothing worthy of remark. 
The walks in the neighbourhood of Waldshut are pretty. 

Waldshut to Zurich (p. 34). 

Erzingen is the last station in the Baden territory. 
Wilschingen, the first in the Canton of Schaffhausen. 


22 


BASLE TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. 


NEUHAUSEN 

(Hotel Scliweizerhof, immediately facing the Falls, and with 

fine view of the Alps.) 

This is the best station for alighting to visit the Falls Of 
the Rhine. 

The Rhine, above the Falls, is about 300 feet wide j the 
height of the Falls is about 60 feet on one side, 43 feet on the 
other, and the water rushes in three leaps, with a volume of 
about 80,000 cubic feet per second, and then falls into a large 
basin. Descend, through the beautiful grounds belonging to the 
Schweizerhof Hotel, to the Schlosschen Worth, where there is 
a fine view. Here also is a camera obscura, a restaurant, and 
a stall of fancy goods. Then take a boat (3 francs for i to 3 
persons), and row in the midst of the turbulent waters to the 
middle rock in the Falls. The boat will rock violently, and the 
spray may fall heavily, but there is no danger—in fact, an acci¬ 
dent has never been known. You will alight just at the foot of 
the great volume of water, and will find it hard to make your¬ 
self heard in conversation without an effort. Ascend to a 
pavilion (“ the Umbrella,” as it is called in the neighbourhood), 
and a view of unspeakable grandeur will be witnessed. 

If the traveller is nervous, and does not care to visit the 
rock, go by ferry direct to ScMoss Laufen (30c). 

Schloss Laufen is beautifully situated immediately above the 
Falls. Admission to the grounds, i franc. Although the 
general effect of the Falls is grand from any point of view, it is 
impossible to fully realize their true beauty and grandeur except 
from the Schloss Laufen. 

Passing through the rooms, in which will be found a good 
collection of Swiss carvings, photographs, water-colour draw¬ 
ings, and curiosities, the traveller enters the enclosed grounds, 
and sees first a pavilion from which a good general view is 
obtained (with or without stained glasses). Descending by a 
pleasant path, he then enters a small tunnel in the rock, against 
which the waters are booming, and it seems as if the rocks shook. 
This leads to the Kiinzli, a wooden platform beside the Falls. 
There descend again, and enter through a doorway to the 
FischetZ, an iron platform, overhanging the troubled sea of 
waters. (Here waterproofs are kept, and are often needed, as 
the spray continually dashes over.) The most imposing view 
and the finest effects are to be seen here. 

A description by John Ruskin will be read here with 
pleasure;— 


FALLS OF THE RHINE. 


23 

Stand for an hour beside the Falls of Schaffhausen, on 
the north side, where the rapids are long, and watch how the 
vault of water first bends unbroken in pure polished velocity 
over the arching rocks at the brow of the cataract, covering 
them with a dome of crystal twenty feet thick, so swift that its 
motion is unseen except when a foam-globe from above darts 
over it like a falling star 5 and how the trees are lighted above 
it under all their leaves at the instant that it breaks into foam j 
and how all the hollows of ^that foam burn with green fire, like 
so much shattering chrysoprasi 3 and how, ever and anon start¬ 
ling you with its white flash, a jet of spray leaps hissing out of 
the fall, like a rocket bursting in the wind and driven away in 
dust, filling the air with light j and how, through the curdling 
wreaths of the restless, crashing abyss below, the blue of the 
water, paled by the foam in its body, shows purer than the sky 
through white rain cloud 3 while the shuddering iris stoops in 
tremulous stillness over all, fading and flushing alternately 
through the choking spray and shattered sunshine, hiding itself 
at last among the thick golden leaves which toss to and fro in 
sympathy with the wild waters, their dripping masses lifted at 
intervals, like sheaves of loaded corn, by some stronger gush 
from the cataract, and bowed again upon the mossy rocks as its 
roar dies away.’’ 

The tourist should now return to the Castle, and after pass¬ 
ing out into the road, turn to the left, and descend by a path 
to the Railway Bridge. This he will cross by a footway, 
and will notice the river bed, the gathering waters rushing to 
the Fall, and the unequal arches of the bridge. Then through 
vineyards on the left, and back, past the village, to the hotel. 
The Falls should be seen in the early morning, when the rain¬ 
bows are around them 3 by the light of the sunset 3 and, if 
fancy so dictates, illuminated with magnesium and Bengal 
lights. The best time in the year for witnessing a mighty rush 
of waters is in June or July, when the snow of the Alps is 
melting, but the Falls are always grand. On a moonlight night 
the effects are exquisite. 

Dr. Forbes thus describes the scene :—We walked out on 
the terrace in front of the hotel to enjoy the view of the Falls 
by moonlight. The evening was as lovely as the day had been 
—warm, cloudless, and without a breath of wind. The huge 
white mass of tumbling foam lay straight before us, the only 
bright spot in the dimly-lighted landscape, and attracting and 
fixing the eye exclusively on itself. No sound was heard but 


SCHAFFHAUSEN. 


24 

the one continuous roar of the water, softened by the distance, 
and seeming to fill the whole air like the moonshine itself. 
There was something both wild and delightful in the hour and 
its accompaniments. The mind yielded passively to the im¬ 
pressions made on the senses. A host of half-formed, 
vague, and visionary thoughts crowded into it at the same 
time, giving rise to feelings at once tender and melancholy, 
accompanied with a sort of objectless sympathy or yearning 
after something unknown. The ideas and emotions most 
definite and constant were those of power and perpetuity, 
wonder and awe. What was now impressing the senses and 
the mind seemed a part of something infinite, which they could 
neither comprehend nor shake off j the same mass, the same 
roar, the same rush day and night, year after year, age after age, 
now and for ever ! ” 

SchafThausen is the capital of the same named Canton. 
The name Schaffhausen is derived from the “ skiff-houses,” 
which were once ranged here along the river bank when it was 
a mere landing-place for goods, and was principally peopled by 
boatmen. It is a remarkably picturesque town, and retains 
some good specimens of the Suabian st)de of the sixteenth 
century. Notice the frescoes on some of the houses, especially 
the House Zum Ritter, opposite the Krone Hotel. The 
Cathedral, founded 1052, was once an Abbey Church j the 
style is Romanesque, very massive. The inscription on the 
great bell (cast in 1468) gave the suggestion to Schiller for his 
exquisite “ Lied von der Glocke.” It runs as follows :—‘‘ Vivos 
voco, mortuos plango, fulgura frango.” The Castle of 
Munoth, with a thick, bomb-proof wall and a round tower, was 
built 1^64 j visitors may inspect it, enjoy the view, and en¬ 
ter the subterranean passages for a trifling fee. The Library 
is only celebrated for the works of Johann von Muller, the Swiss 
historian. On the Promenade (Vesenstaub) is Muller’s 
monument. A good swimming-bath in the river. The Im- 
thurneum (named after its founder, M. Imthurn, a native, 
who presented it to the town) contains a good Theatre, Concert 
and Ball Room, etc. 

FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN TO ZURICH 

(Time, 2 hours.) 

A long tunnel is entered, then the great bridge over the 
Rhine is crossed, and another tunnel, passing under the Castle 


SCHAFFHAUSEN TO CONSTANCE. 


25 

of Laufen, on emerging from which a glance at the Falls may 
be obtained. The scenery is very beautiful in the neighbour¬ 
hood of Dachsen, after which there is little to call for special 
attention until Winterthur (p. ^13) is reached. The stations 
after Dachsen are Marthalen, Andeljingen, Henggart, Hetlingen, 
Winterthur. 

Winterthur to Zurich, p. ^3. 

SCHAFFHAUSEN TO CONSTANCE, BY RAIL. 

(Time hours.) The first station of any importance is Singen, 
a junction for Donaueschingen. Near Singen is the fortress of 
Huhentwiel, celebrated in the history of the Thirty Years’ 
War, partly destroyed by the French in 1800. Magnificent 
view from the tower. 

Radolpliszell, a walled town, with a fine Gothic Church 
([I36). A good view of the Lower Lake is obtained here, in 
the centre of which is the Island of Reichenau. (See below.) 

The journey from this point is on the margin of the Lake, 
past stations Markelfingen^ Allenshach, Reichenau. The Rhine 
is then crossed by a handsome bridge thrown across that part 
of the lake, which is here contracted to a river. 

SchafThausen to Constance. By boat (Time, 4 to 5 
hours; reverse journey Constance to Schaffhausen, 3 hours). 
Paradies, formerly a nunnery. The Austrian army, under the 
Archduke Charles, crossed the Rhine here 1799. Diessen- 
hofen, where the French army in 1800 effected a passage 
before the Battle of Hohenlinden. Stein, a fine old town. 
Abbey of St. George. Ruined Castle of Hohenklingen, with a 
good view. 

Soon after leaving Stein the river widens, and the Unter- 
see (Lower Lake) is entered. The Castle of Freudenfels is 
seen on the right, and below it the village of Eschenz. To the left, 
Oherstaad, near which are the Quarries of Oehningen, remark¬ 
able for fossils; on the right, Steckborn and Feldbach, nunnery. 
At Berlingen the Island of Reichenau is seen to advantage. 
It is 3 n)iles long, and miles broad. In the Church of the 
Benedictine Abbey, Charles the Fat, great-grandson of Charle¬ 
magne, is buried. To the right of Berlingen is the Castle of 
Eugensberg, built by Eugene Beauharnais ; the Castle of Salen- 
stein ; Arenenherg^ where Queen Hortense died, and Napoleon 
III. visited. Soon after leaving the narrow passage 

connecting the Untersee with the Lake of Constance is entered. 


26 


CONSTANCE. 


On the right is the castellated Monastery of Gottliobcn, 
where John Huss and Jerome of Prague were imprisoned by 
order of the Emperor Sigismund and Pope John XXIL It 
was a curious coincidence that Pope John XXII. should have 
himself been confined in this very castle a few years later, by 
order of the Council of Constance (p. 27). The remainder of 
the journey is somewhat uninteresting. 

CONSTANCE. 

(Hotel Hecht.) 

The population of Constance was once over 40,000 it is 
now about 11,000. The town is on the Swiss bank of the 
Rhine, but was, by the Treaty of Pressburg (1805) ceded to 
Baden. 

There is not much in Constance for the mere sightseer 3 it 
is rich, however, in historical associations. As Geneva is the 
city of Calvin, and Zurich the city of Zwingli, so Constance is 
the city of Huss. 

The House of Huss, in the St. Paulsstrasse, is adorned 
with his effigy. The Dominican Monastery of Gottlieben, 
where he was imprisoned, is on an island near the town (see 
above). The place where he stood to receive the sentence of 
death is pointed out in the Miinster. The Kaufhaus, in 
which the Council met who condemned him, may be visited 3 
and the field at Briihl, where the last act in the tragedy was 
performed, is still to be seen; and here the visitor, as he stands 
on the very spot where the stake was planted, will be asked to 
buy an image of the Reformer, made from clay taken from the 
place above which the flames crackled. 

It is not necessary here to tell the story of Huss again; but 
as the visitor looks at his prison at Gottlieben, it may not be 
uninteresting to recall one of his dreams, as related by D’Au- 
bigne in his History of the Reformation” :— 

‘‘ One night the holy martyr saw in imagination, from the 
depths of his dungeon, the pictures of Christ that he had had 
painted on the walls of his oratory, effaced by the Pope and his 
bishops. This vision distressed him 3 but on the next day he 
saw many painters occupied in restoring these figures in greater 
number and in brighter colours. 'As soon as their task was 
ended, the painters, who were surrounded by an immense 
crowd, exclaimed, ‘ Now let the popes and bishops come ! They 
shall never efface them more ! ’ ‘ And many people rejoiced in 


CONSTANCE. 


27 

Bethlehem, and I with them,’ adds John Huss. ‘ Busy your¬ 
self with your defence rather than with your dreams,’ said his 
faithful friend, the Knight of Chlum, to whom he had com¬ 
municated this vision. ‘ I am no dreamer,’ replied Huss 5 ^ but 
I maintain this for certain, that the image of Christ will never 
be effaced. They have wished to deface it, but it shall be 
painted afresh in all hearts by much better preachers than my¬ 
self. The nation that loves Christ will rejoice at this j and I, 
awaking from among the dead, and rising, so to speak, from 
my grave, shall leap with great joy.” 

Nor can the visitor walk out to the suburb of Bruhl, on 
the Zurich road, where he was burnt at the stake, without 
thinking of the remarkable pun and prophecy he made as he 
was entering the flames in allusion to his own name, which 
signified in the Bohemian tongue a goose. He said, “ Are you 
going to burn a goose ? In one century you will have a swan 
you can neither roast nor boil.” And in one century came forth 
Luther, who had a swan for his arms. 

The Munster, or Cathedral, was founded 10^2, but did not 
assume its present form till the beginning of the sixteenth cen¬ 
tury. The Gothic tower at the west end was erected during the 
years 18^0-57. From the platforms round the open-work spire 
a magnificent view is obtained of the town, the lake, the 
valley of the Rhine, and the mountains of the Tyrol. The 
oak doors of the chief entrance are decorated with reliefs by 
Simon Haider (1470), in twenty sections, representing scenes 
in the life of our Lord. 

In the interior observe the sixteen monolith pillars which 
support the nave 3 the choir-Stalls, with old carvings j the 
Tomb of Robert Hallam, Bishop of Salisbury, made of 
English brass. In the nave is a light-coloured stone, marking 
the spot where John Huss stood when the cruel sentence 
of death was delivered, July 6, 1415, and where he knelt before 
his accusers, and cried, “Lord Jesus, forgive my enemies!’’ 
It is affirmed that this stone always remains dry when those 
surrounding it are damp. The sacristy contains some curious 
missals, miniatures, plate, and other relics. A good collection 
of stained glass, by Vincent, may be seen in the Chapter- 
room. The Crypt below the church is very old, and contains 
a representation in stone of the Holy Sepulchre. The Clois¬ 
ters, though now much dilapidated, exhibit some excellent 
workmanship. 

The Hall of the Kaufhaus is where the Council of 


28 


LAKE OF CONSTANCE. 


Constance held its sittings, and condemned Huss and Jerome 
of Prague. Many memorials of the former are preserved here 
in a kind of museum* admission one franc. 

In the Wessenberg-Haus may be seen a good collec¬ 
tion of engravings and pictures. On the Town Hall, Stadl- 
Kanzlei, are frescoes illustrating passages in the history of 
Constance. 

The walks in the neighbourhood of Constance, and the 
promenades surrounding the town, are pretty. The pier is 
attractive, on account of the good views it commands. There 
is also a good Swimming Bath. 

In the environs of Constance are several very interesting 
places 5 among them the Abbey of Kreuzlingen —or, 
rather, the building which once bore that name, for it is now 
an agricultural school. The present structure has been erected 
since the Thirty Years’ War, as the former one was destroyed 
during that time. In one of the chapels is a marvellous piece of 
wood-carving, adorned with many hundreds of miniature figures, 
the work of a Tyrolese j also an embroidery, adorned with 
pearls, presented by Pope John XXII. on his journeying to 
Constance in 1414. 

Mainau, the beautiful seat of the Grand Duke of Baden, 
is situated on a small island, about four miles from Constance. 
The island is connected with the mainland by a bridge. No 
pleasanter day’s excursion than this can be undertaken in the 
vicinity of Constance. 

The Field of Briibl is outside the town, on the road to 
Ziirich, and possesses the melancholy interest of being the 
place where Huss was burnt in 1415, and Jerome of Prague 
a year after. The spot is marked by a rough monument of 
stones, upon which is an inscription. 


THE LAKE OF CONSTANCE. 

(Latin, Lacus Bri^antinus. German, Boden See.) 

This spacious reservoir of the Rhine is over forty miles in 
length, and eight in width 3 it is a glorious sheet of water in 
tine weather, but rather turbulent in storm, being elevated about 
1,300 feet, and not protected by lofty mountain embankments 5 
it is by no means an uncommon thing for tourists to suffer 
from sea-sickness when being rocked on its bosom. There are 


BREGENZ. 


29 

some fine views from it, especially of the Appenzell Alps, 
including the snow-clad Sentis and the Vorarlberg Alps. Lake 
Constance would probably be considered very beautiful, were it 
not in Switzerland 3 but being there, it suffers from odious 
comparisons with its fairer neighbours. 

The position held by the lake is curious, as it forms the 
boundary of five different states, viz., Baden, Wiirttemberg, 
Bavaria, Austria, and Switzerland, to each of which states a 
portion of the coast belongs. 

' For steamers to all parts of the lake, see local time-tables. 

Friedriclisliafen, nearly opposite Constance, is the prin¬ 
cipal bathing place on the lake, and the views from here are 
among the finest in the neighbourhood. It is a pleasant town, 
with about 3000 inhabitants. The Scllloss is the summer 
residence of the King of Wurtemberg. Friedrichshafen is the 
terminus of the Stuttgart Railway. 

Lindau, a pretty town at the E. end of the lake, is the 
terminus of the Bavarian Railway. 

Bregenz, in the Vorarlberg, is a good starting-point for 
the Tyrol, it is thus sketched by Adelaide Proctor:— 


“ Girt round with rugged mountains, 
The fair Lake Constance lies ; 

In her blue heart reflected, 

Shine back the stany skies ; 
And, watching each white cloudlet 
Float silently and slow, 

You think a piece of heaven 
Lies on our earth below ! 


Midnight is there ; and silence. 
Enthroned in heaven, looks down 
Upon her own calm mirror. 

Upon a sleeping town ; 

For Bregenz, that quaint city 
Upon the Tyrol shore, 

Has stood above Lake Constance 
A thousand years and more. 

Her battlements and towers. 

From off their rocky steep. 

Have cast their trembling shadows 
For ages on the deep 3 
Mountain, and lake, and valley, 

A sacred legend know. 

Of how the town was saved one night, 
Three hundred years ago.’*—etc , etc. 


30 


RORSCHACH. 


CONSTANCE TO COIRE (CHUR). 

The journey may be made by boat to Rorschach, and thence 
by rail, or the whole route by rail, the line skirting the bank of 
the Lake as far as to Rorschach. In either case the principal 
places passed will be Kreuzlingen (p. 28), Munster lingerie 
(with a large lunatic asylum, formerly a monastery), Altjiau, 
(juttingen, Kessweil, Uttwdl, Romanshorn (a steamboat- 
station, eight miles from Friedrichshafen, and a junction with 
line to Winterthur), Egnach, Arhon (once the Roman Arbor 
Felix), Horn (with its good bath), and then Rorschach. 

RORSCHACH. 

(Hotel Seehof.) 

Behind the town, which has a population of 3492, is a hill 
called the Rorschacher Berg, commanding a view of the 
entire length of Constance and the Alps of the Orisons. There 
are some old castles dotted about on hills, some good baths not 
far off from the town, and very pretty walks and drives, and the 
air is said to be very beneficial to invalids. It is not, however, 
a place to choose for a lengthened stay. 

A large traffic passes through here or by the coast steamers 
from Romanshorn, across the lake to Lindau, where it is 
transhipped from steamer to railway for Bavaria, Austria, etc. 

It was a busy place during the late war, as it was the route 
selected for traffic from the eastern line from France. 

The trip to Bregenz can be made from this town by 
steamer (p. 29). 

Leaving Rorschach, the lake is skirted and the valley of 
the Rhine is entered. Rheineckis a pleasant village, situated 
in a bend in the river, and surrounded with vineyards 3 travellers 
who are seeking the Molken-kur, or Whey-cure (made of 
goat’s milk) alight here for Heiden, said to be one of the 
cleanest and healthiest towns in Switzerland. Diligence twice 
daily, hour. From Heiden a diligence runs to St. Gallen 
(P- 54 )- 

Altstatten has a population of nearly 8000. Beautiful 
neighbourhood. Good roads from hereto Appenzell, St. Gall, 
and a pleasant footpath to Heiden. The manufacture in this 
neighbourhood is a muslin fabric known as St. Gallen muslin, 
the handiwork of all the women of the villages round about. 
From Altstatten to Coire the scenery is extremely picturesque. 


RAGATZ. 


Oberried, a ruined castle (Blatten) is seen to the right, 
and below it is a defile known as the Hirschsprung (stag’s leap.) 

Riithi. A pathway from here leads to Weissbad, by the 
Kamor Pass, the views from which are magnificent. Sennwald, 
at the foot of the Kanzel, or pulpit, is near here. 

Haag. Railway from here to Feldkirch, for the Tyrol. 
At Buchs is a castle, once the residence of the Counts of 
Werdenberg. 

At Sevelen is the ruined castle of Wartau, and on the 
opposite bank of the Rhine, Vaduz, to which place a coach 
runs from Triibbach. 

Sargans. Inquire here if a change of carriage must be 
made. Sargans is the junction with the railways from Wallen- 
stadt and Zurich. In this neighbourhood are the mountains 
Falknis and Scesaplana. 

RAGATZ 

(Hotel Quellenhof,) 

On the Tamina, is annually crowded with thousands of visitors, 
sometimes as many as 50,000 in a season, on account of 
the Baths, the mineral water which supplies them being 
conveyed from Pfaffers by tubes or wooden pipes made of 
hollow pine trees, and reaching a distance of 12,500 ft. 
Ragatz has some fine hotels, a Carsaal, and charming environs. 
Bad-Pfaffers, up the gorge of the Tamina, should on no ac¬ 
count be missed. It is an easy walk of 2\ miles from Ragatz. 
The old Baths are between frowning rocks above the torrent of the 
Tamina. The Gorge is traversed by a wooden pathway above 
the torrent, and with gloomy walls of rock overhanging. In 
many respects it resembles the Gorge duTrient (p. 121), although, 
probably, that remarkable spot is more than equalled by the 
savage grandeur of Pfafi'ers. In one part of the Gorge (the 
Schlucht or abyss) the rocks are not more than 20 feet apart. 
The journey from Ragatz may be made with perfect safety either 
by carriage or on foot, and, although a very timid person might 
fear to walk upon a mere shelf of planks, with a brawling river 
below and threatening rocks above, it is nevertheless perfectly 
safe. A charge of one franc is made to each person for 
admittance, and a guide invariably accompanies the visitors. 
The journey may be made in from two to three hours, but those 
who have time at their disposal will do well to visit also the 
Village of Pfaffers, which has a fine Benedictine Abbey, 
now used as a Lunatic Asylum. The road from the village to 



CONSTANCE TO COIRE. 


32 

Ragatz is exceedingly picturesque, and passes the ruined castle 
of Warteiistein.’ Innumerable pleasant excursions may be made 
in this neighbourhood. 

Resuming the railway, the Rhine is crossed, and the 
traveller, leaving the Canton of St. Gall, passes into the Orisons. 

Mayenfeld. —Fine views. An old Tower of the fourth 
century, built, it is said, by the Emperor Constantius, is seen 
here j and also the Convent of Pfaffers. 

Landquart. —Diligences run from here to the Engadine 

(p. i8j). 

COIRE. 

(German, Chur; Romansch, Cuera.') 

(Hotel Steinbock.) 

Coire (pop. 8000) is the chief city of the Canton of the 
Orisons {Graubilndeji), whose history is quite as eventful as 
that of the Forest cantons, and equally as interesting. Some 
of the principal inhabitants of the country called Canton Orisons 
met together in a forest near the village of Trons, to form a 
league and concert measures by which they might throw off the 
oppressive tyranny of the petty lords and barons who had so 
long held them in subjection. In May, 1424, they met at the 
village of Trons, and there established “The Grey League” 
(Graubund), so called from their being dressed in grey^ Two 
similar leagues were formed : one called “ The League of God’s 
House,” and the other “The League of the Ten Jurisdictions.” 
These three leagues, known as the Grison Confederacy, warred 
against the barons to such good purpose, that, had not the 
Episcopal lords directed their movements, it is likely that their 
oppressors would have been forced to flee the land. As it was, 
however, they contented themselves with forming their country 
into a number of small republics, each with a perfectly inde¬ 
pendent government and machinery. The result of this was an 
endless storm of petty feuds and quarrels between the citizens, 
which did not really end until, in 1814, they became a canton 
of the Swiss Confederation. Since then a new set of laws con¬ 
cerning the administration of the canton has been put in opera¬ 
tion, by which all the old landmarks connected with the earlier 
form of government have been obliterated, and it is now settled 
down to the ordinary peace and prosperity of the rest of the 
Swiss cantons. 

The language of the Grisons is Romansch, divided into 
three different dialects; the inhabitants, however, can nearly 


COIRE. 


53 

always supplement their own tongue with German or Italian. 
The tourist will be interested in perusing a newspaper published 
in Coire, in the Romansch, entitled “ Amity del Pievel/’ the 

Friend of the People.'’ 

The canton is very large, occupying about one-sixth of the 
whole of the Swiss territory, and has a population which, in 
1870, numbered 91,782. The scenery is very beautiful through¬ 
out the canton, consisting of barren mountains and fertile val¬ 
leys, and every charm that variety can give. 

There are several places of interest for the fleeting tourist to 
note as he passes by, although the town of Coire does not hold 
out sufficient inducement for any lengthened stay. The situa¬ 
tion of the town is extremely picturesque ^ the streets are 
narrow and irregular, but abounding with good views. The 
Plessur, a river flowing into the Rhine, passes through it. Part 
of the town Is surrounded with walls. The Cathedral, or 
Church of St. Lucius, is the most remarkable building in Coire j 
it dates from the eighth century, and is a good specimen of the 
early pointed Gothic. St. Lucius is of doubtful origin •, but the 
legends say he was a King of Scotland, who came as an evan¬ 
gelist to Switzerland, and suffered martyrdom. Observe the 
portal of the entrance court, representing Christ as the Lion of 
the tribe of Judah. In the interior are many objects of in¬ 
terest— 

Tomb of Bishop Ortlleb de Brandis. 

Madonna ..... Stumm {p%ipil of Ruhens). 

High Altar, with fine carved work . . Jacoh Roesc/u 

Christ bearing the Cross .... Albert Durer. 

In the Treasury are many valuable curiosities,, including a 
miniature on lapis lazuli, by Carlo Dolce. 

The Episcopal Palace, not far from the church, is also 
very ancient 5 and it is said that the chapel is one of the earliest 
Christian edifices extant. It is in an old Roman tower, called 
Marsdl, in which tower, says tradition, St. Lucius was mur¬ 
dered in the year 176. Above the Cathedral Is a very fine walk, 
commanding extensive views of the Via Mala and the Spliigen. 

The Chapel of St. Lucius, beautifully situated at the 
foot of the Mittenberg, commands a fine view, as also does the 
Rosenhiigel, a promenade a short distance from the town, on 
the Julier Road. The tourist may, perchance, hear the watch¬ 
man perambulating the town at night, and if so, he may catch 
a couplet of the following ancient chant:— 


3 



34 


BASLE TO ZURICH. 


“ Hear, ye Christians, let me tell you 
Our clock has struck eight, 

Our clock has struck nine, etc. 

Eight —only eight in Noah’s time 
Were saved from punishment. Eight! 
iSine digests no thanking : 

Man, think of thy duty ! ISIine ! 

Ten commandments God enjoined : 

Let us be to Him obedient. Ten ! 

Only Elenien disciples were faithful : 

Grant, Lord, that there be no falling off. Elevin ! 

T’wel've is the hour that limits time : 

Man, think upon eternity ! Ttvelve ! 

One, —O man, only one thing is needful : 

Man, think upon thy death ! One! 

From Coire over the Spliigen Pass (p. ly?)- 
„ Coire to St. Moritz (p. 184). 

„ Coire to Andermatt by the Oberalp (p. 182). 

A diligence runs between Coire and Andermatt, from whence 
another diligence runs to Brieg and Leuk j and hence the rail¬ 
way may be taken to Geneva (p. 124), 

BASLE TO ZURICH. 

There are three ways by which the journey may be made. 
I. Waldshut and Turgi. 2. By Olten and Turgi. 3. By 
Rheinfelden, Stein, and Brugg. 

(1) From Basle to Waldshut (see p. 21). At Waldshut the 
Swiss Junction Railway crosses the Rhine a short distance 
from Coblenz, and traverses the right bank of the river Aare 
(which joins the Rhine at Coblenz — Confluentia) to Turgi. 
A short but interesting journey brings the traveller to Turgi, 
from which place the journey to Zurich is continued, as in 
Route 3. (See below.) 

(2) Basle to Olten, Turgi, and Zurich. Soon after 
leaving the station, the battle-field of St. Jacob (p. 20) is 
passed, where 1600 Swiss withstood for ten hours a French 
army ten times more numerous, commanded by the Dauphin. 
The whole of the journey from Basle to Olten is through 
very charming country. As soon as the Rhine valley is left, 
the valley of the Ergolz, in the Jura, is entered. Liestal, 
the capital of the half-canton. Basle-Champagne (p. 15), re¬ 
minds the traveller of the animosity existing between it and 
Basle-ville. It is a poor town, possessing nothing of great in- 


BASLE TO ZURICH. 


35 

terest except the cup of Charles the Bold found at Nancy. 
Stations, Lausen, Sissach, Sommerau. and LdufeIJingen. 

Soon after passing the latter station, the great Hauenstein 
Tunnel is entered. It is one and a half miles long. A terrible 
accident occurred here in May, 1857, when fifty-two workmen 
perished by a fall of the earth. The Hauenstein commands a 
magnificent view of the Alps, which is not seen from the rail¬ 
way. Many tourists, therefore, leave the train at Laufelfingen, 
ascend the mountain (time, one and a half hours), and descend 
to Olten, where the journey can be continued. 

Olteilj junction for Lucerne, Berne, Geneva, etc. Inquire 
if carriages have to be changed here. The town is pleasantly 
situated on the Aare, in a valley of the Jura. There is nothing 
in Olten except its situation to interest the traveller. 

Leaving Olten, the journey continues still through pleasant 
scenery, with the Aare and the Jura mountains in sight. 
Stations, Ddnikon, Schonenwerth, with a ruined castle. 

Aarau (Hotel de la Cigogne), the capital of the Canton 
Aargau, is on the Aare, and under the Jura. Henry Zschokke, 
the historian, lived here. The Baths of Schinznach can be 
reached from here by way of the Gyslifluh, 2539 feet. A plea¬ 
sant excursion, commanding good views. 

Stations : Ruppersweil^ IVUdegg, near to the Baths of Bres- 
tenberg j Schinznach, celebrated for its baths j visited chiefly by 
the French. The Castle of Habsburg is close by here, once the 
seat of the Imperial house of Austria, but now a ruin. 

Brugg, a pleasant and pretty place, once belonging to the 
House of Habsburg; its jdd towers are very quaint and 
curious. Near here the Aare, the Reuss, and the Limmat, 
three of the principal rivers of the country, join and travel in 
company under the name of the Aare, until they reach Coblenz, 
near Waldshut. A mile to the south-east of Brngg stands the 
Abbey of Konigsfelden, founded by the Empress Eliza¬ 
beth and Agnes of Hungary, on the spot where the Emperor 
Albert, husband of the one and father of the other, was assassi¬ 
nated two years before. How much religion went in those days 
to the building of an abbey we may judge by the ferocious 
revenge which Agnes, unable to lay hands on the conspirators 
themselves, took upon their families and friends, when, on occa¬ 
sion of the butchery of sixty three guiltless victims before her 
at one time, she exclaimed, ‘ Now I bathe in May-dew! ’ The 
actual murderers succeeded in making their escape, with the 
exception of Wart, who was undoubtedly present, though his 



BASLE TO ZURICH. 


3*5 

share in the deed is disputed. He was sentenced to be broken 
alive upon the wheel ^ but the usual ‘ stroke of mercy ’ was 
denied, and he lingered for two days and two nights before 
death relieved him from his sufferings. I know few stories more 
affectino- than that of the devotion of Wart’s wife in the hours 

O ^ 

of his long agony. During the day she concealed herself in the 
neighbourhood, and as soon as it was, dark, eluding the guards, 
she contrived to climb up to the scaffold, and kneeling by his 
side through the slow and terrible night, wiped away the sweat 
of anguish from his brow, and whispered into his ear the con¬ 
solation of faith and love. Before the morning broke she has¬ 
tened away to hide herself near the spot, and to pray that when 
she came back again she might find him dead. There came in 
the morning a gay troop of knights to see the sight, and bit¬ 
terly spoke one when he looked upon the unmutilated face. 
^ Are there no crows in your country ? ’ was his stern demand. 
It was the cruel Agnes in disguise. Strange indeed it is that 
two such passions should have a common origin of woman’s 
affection—that the same source should send forth such sweet 
waters and such bitter ! ’’ 

Brugg was the birthplace of Zimmerman, the author of the 
well-known book on Solitude.” 

Turgi, junction, with branch line to Waldshut. 

Baden (Hotel Hinterhof) is the oldest of the watering- 
places of Switzerland j its ancient name was AqucB Helvetice. It 
was visited by fashionable Romans, and now fashionable cosmo¬ 
politans visit it to the number of 15,000 annually. Its springs 
are good for rheumatism, catarrhs, and almost everything else. 
A curious fact connected with this place is, that it was an 
ancestor of Baden-Baden 3 that is to say, it was once a "" hell ” 
of the Romans, if all accounts be true; for it is said the IVurfel 
IFiese, or Dice Meadow, is so named on account of the dice 
found in it. 

The season at Baden is June to September, and the principal 
frequenters are Swiss and French. 

Stations, Killwangen, DietikoJi, Schliere?i, Altstetten junction 
with branch line to Lucerne (p. 5 ^)* As the traveller draws near 
to Zurich, he will be struck with the picturesque nature of the 
scenery in its immediate neighbourhood, and with the view of 
the great range of Alps seen on the right hand. 

Crossing the river Sihl, the train arrives at Zurich (p. 37). 

(3) By Rheinfelden, Stein, and Brugg. This is the most 
direct route from Basle to Zurich, and is not less interesting 


ZURICH. 


37 

than either of the other two. There is a good service of trains, 
namely, from seven to ten daily each way. The railway passes 
through Rheinfelden (p. 21), and the picturesque surround¬ 
ings of this quaint and interesting town are therefore much 
better seen than from the railway—Basle to Waldshut and 
Turgi—where the line is on the other side of the river. Before 
reaching Stein, the next station of any importance on the 
route, the line turns southward, thus—as may be seen in the 
map—saving the long distance to Waldshut on the one hand, 
or to Olten on the other. Then comes Brugg (p. 35), and the 
remainder of the journey is the same as in the other routes. 

ZURICH. 

(Hotel Belle Vue, on the shore of the Lake; commands the 
best view of the Alps and the Lake.) 

Population, 60,000, chiefly Protestant. 

Zurich is the centre of Swiss intelligence and industry; its 
staple trade is the manufacture of silk and cotton. Its Uni¬ 
versity is noted for the proficient medical men it sends forth, 
for its liberality in the matter of lady students, and for the 
advanced thought and ultra-democratic views entertained there. 
Every new idea is grasped with ardour and agitated with vigour. 
While the University is the nucleus of enlightened views, 
ethical, religious, and political, the town preserves the severely 
Calvinistic character that made it a stronghold of the Reforma¬ 
tion. Police regulations exist with regard to keeping Sunday, 
that sound strangely arbitrary and somewhat incongruous to 
English ears. The spirit of clique largely animates its society ; 
the merchant does not visit with the learned bodies, nor the 
students with the bourgeoisie. The people are brusque in man¬ 
ner and speech. “ Grossier comme un Zurichois ” has become a 
proverb. 

Zurich’s history is ancient, rough, and not always honour¬ 
able. Long before the ubiquitous Romans founded the colony 
of Turicum, it was a Keltic community, as remains amply 
prove. Excavations in the neighbourhood have furnished rich 
yields of antiquities, Keltic, Etruscan, and Roman. Ziirich 
early ruled itself, and knew the horrors of civil war, dissension, 
and treachery. The Ziirichers appear fond of fighting; their 
records abound in narratives of attacks and quarrels. Nor were 
they good Swiss ; oftentimes they made secret alliances with 
the Austrians against their neighbouring countrymen, afterwards 



ZURICH. 


38 

they wearied of the Austrian yoke, and joined the forest cantons 
in their revolt against the Habsburgs. When, early in the four¬ 
teenth century, Duke Albert besieged Zurich, the women 
donned armour, and aided the men in routing the enemy. 
They drove him across the frontier to his ancestral castle of 
Habsburgj and near here, while he was halting to admire the 
exquisite view the valley of the Reuss presents, he was treacher¬ 
ously murdered by his own nephew. From this date Ziirich 
grew in importance, acquiring much land by conquest and by 
purchase. It was in the van of the Reformation ; the Protes¬ 
tants banished under Queen Mary found a sure asylum here 3 the 
first English Bible printed issued from its press. It was in 
Zurich Cathedral that Zwingli thundered forth the new doc¬ 
trines he had recently embraced. His eloquence converted the 
whole congregation, and the church has ever since been Pro¬ 
testant. 

Zurich boasts of many distinguished names. Conrad Gess- 
ner, the celebrated naturalist, was born here, March 26, 
Among his multifarious labours, he designed and painted over 
1500 plants, and left five volumes consisting entirely of figures. 
He was buried in the cloister of the great Church in Zurich, 
156^. Solomon Gessner, the poet and painter, was born here 
in 1730. He was the author of The Death of Abel.” He 
died in Zurich, and his monument may still be seen. And 
Lavater, the thoughtful, amiable Lavater, was born and lived 
here. Zimmerman dwelt for some time near here on the lake, 
and wrote in one of his letters : “ I can never recall these sub¬ 
lime and tranquil scenes which I have enjoyed in the company 
of Lavater without the most intense emotion.” Lavater met 
his death in Zurich when the town was entered by the French 
army in 1799. There are several versions of the story of 
his death, but the most credible is that which says he was 
shot by a French soldier while dressing the wounds of his 
dying comrade. The perpetrator of the crime had but a few 
hours before received the hospitality of the man he thus cruelly 
slew. Although Lavater knew who it was that had shot him, 
he refused to divulge the information, notwithstanding a large 
reward had been offered by the French commander, Massena, 
for the discovery of the murderer. Lavater lingered for more 
tlian a year, much of which time was spent in extreme bodily 
torture consequent upon his wound. 

It would take long even to name the famous men of Ziirich. 
Pestalozzi, the children’s friend, Orelli, Bodmer, Horner, Meyer, 


ZURICH. 


39 

the friend of Goethe, not to speak of exiles innumerable, past 
and present—for the gates of Ziirich have always been open to 
the politically oppressed. 

Zurich is divided, by the rapid river Limmat, into two parts; 
the Grosse-stadt (right) and the Kleine-stadt (left). The 
Lake, at the north end of which the town lies, is 26 miles 
long and 3 wide, and is one of the chief glories of Ziirich, and 
the greatest attraction to strangers. Steamers traverse its length 
and breadth, stopping at the various villages, remarkable for 
little but their industry. An excursion round the lake is an 
afternoon well spent j but halting at each station to explore the 
neighbourhood repays the longer time it demands (For Lake 
of Zurich, see p. 43.) 

The principal things to be seen in Zurich will not detain 
the visitor long. 

The Gross-Miinster, built in the Romanesque style of 
the eleventh century. It was in this church that Zwingli uttered 
his protests against the sins of his day. It is a massive pile, 
that rises precipitously above the town, approached by a steep 
flight of steps an object that would have been imposing, had 
the eighteenth century not crowned it with towers modelled 
after the fashion of bridecake erections. Below them, on one 
side, is niched an ancient equestrian figure of Charlemagne, in 
his time a benefactor to the foundation. Here he sits, grey, 
impassive, wooden, clutching his sword and sceptre, while 
pigeons nestle at his feet, and swallows build in his golden 
crown. He has witnessed a good slice of history from his ele¬ 
vated post. Full in view spreads the lovely lake, closed in by 
the snowy peaks of the Sentis, Todi, and Glarnisch; close to 
the shore lies a tiny islet, one green mass of chestnuts, amid 
which a solitary poplar rears its slender head. This is the sole 
remains of the fortifications, that once defended the city j they 
are now levelled, and turned into pleasure gardens. A bridge 
spans the Limmat, closed in on either side by two churches. 
Half of the one actually rose from the water, whence it gained 
its name of Wasserkirche (Water Church). The cloisters, 
dating from the thirteenth century, deserve careful attention j 
the fantastic ornamentation of their fan-shaped capitals, and 
the grotesque heads peering between the vaulting of their 
arches, present architectural beauties such as the cathedral can¬ 
not boast. It is a tall, Romanesque, white-washed building, 
Protestant au bout des angles. 

The Town Library (admission i franc), at the corner of 


40 


ZURICH. 


the Miinster Bridge, is in the building which was formerly the 
Wasserkirche, or Water Church, founded, it is said, by Charle¬ 
magne. It was much enlarged in 1860, and contains about 50,000 
works. Among the MSS. are valuable autograph letters of the 
early Reformers, and Zwingli’s Greek Bible, with his own 
annotations in Hebrew j letters of Lady Jane Grey, Frederick 
the Great, etc. There is also a very fine Model, in relief, 
of Switzerland, well worthy of careful attention. A Collec¬ 
tion of Antiquities will be viewed with much interest by 
those who are acquainted with Professor Keller’s work, as they 
are relics of the Swiss lake dwellings and dwellers, those 

“Unknown, mysterious dead! 

Whose relics Science from the shelly marl 
Has gathered, and with vague conjecture based 
On fact, essays to read, like some weird scroll, 

Or dark enigma by Cadmean Sphinx 
Propounded.” * 

The objects which have been recovered reveal- the habits, 
arts, conditions of life, and much of the internal history of those 
who formed and used them. About the events of their external 
history, though much of this can be pretty well imagined, of 
course they are silent. Nor have they anything to tell us in 
reply to the questions of who the people were, whence they 
came, or what became of them ? The information they give us 
begins with the time when men in Central Europe had not 
attained to a knowledge of metals, and were using implements 
of bone and stone for war, hunting, and domestic purposes. 
Abundance of their stone tools have been found, and also of 
specimens of the work done with them. For instance, some of 
the series of piles upon which the dwellings were placed—and 
these piles are found by the hundred—we see w'^ere hacked to 
the point, which was to fit them for driving, with stone chisels 
and hatchets. And then, in other series of piles, we pass on to 
the era when stone had been superseded by bronze and iron 
tools. It is very interesting to have thus before us the actual 
tools and the actual work done with them, together with ocular 
demonstration of the way in which, by the superiority of their 
work, the first metal tools superseded their perfected predeces¬ 
sors of stone.”— Zincke. 

The Hohe Promenade, under a fine avenue of trees, 
commands a beautiful view of the Lake. Lavater is buried in 

* “The Lake Dwellings of Switzerland.” By Rev. F. H. Wood, B.A. 


ENVIRONS OF ZURICH. 


41 

the churchyard of St. Ann, close at hand. The Arsenal 
{Zeughaus) contains the battle-axe used by Zwingli at the fatal 
^*^g3§Gment at Cappel, together with his sword and helmet. 
There is also a display of ancient armour, and the crossbow 
with which it is alleged William Tell shot the apple from his 
son’s head. 

In the Augustine Cliurcll there are two good pictures by 
Desckwanden. The Botanical Gardens contain some fine 
specimens of Alpine plants, and a high mound, called the Katz, 
from which there is a splendid view. 

The Polytechnic is a handsome building, and was founded 
for the purpose of a large national school. It embraces in its 
curriculum all branches of national industry. It has an endow¬ 
ment of 25,000 fr. per annum from the State. It is built upon 
a commanding terrace-like piece of ground, from which a very 
fine view may be enjoyed. In this same building is the Uni¬ 
versity, which has been so deservedly noted for the home 
which it afforded to many eminent men who were obliged to 
fly their fatherland for either political or religious opinions. 

In the Environs of Zurich the most interesting excursion 
is to the 


UETLIBERG, 

one of the Albls range. It is only 2864 feet, but com¬ 
mands a magnificent view. A railway with sharp gradient, 
similar to the Rigi line, pulls the idle up to its summit in 
less than an hour (see p. 42).’ The wise Romans erected a 
specula on this site, whose plateau commands the entire lake 
which lies outstretched below, a blue, narrow crescent, encircled 
by its fruitful hills. In the far distance, the Stockhorn, the 
Jungfrau, Rigi, and Pilatus uprear their splendid heads j on 
clear days the Vosges and the Black Forest are also plainly 
distinguishable. The Uetliberg is a favourite afternoon 
excursion, and no wonder 5 for to see the sun cast its last loving 
evening rays upon these beauties is a sight not soon forgotten. 
It is customary for the school-children of the neighbourhood 
to make an excursion up the Uetliberg on Ascension day, and 
many of the masters let their flocks plant nurseries of pines on 
these occasions. Little forests of various ages thus mark the 
flight of time, for the youth of Zurich link their lives with the 
mountain that overshadows their city. It becomes identified 
with their home, their childhood, and youth j and in old age they 
can seek the shelter of self-planted trees. It is a poetical fancy. 


ENVIRONS OF ZURICH. 


42 

and deserves imitation. In this manner, the past and present 
are joined hand to hand; the Keltic tumulus, Roman watch- 
tower, and modern forest all forming portions of one chain of 
human brotherhood, while the lake flows calmly on, beautiful 
then, now, and for ever. 

The Uetliberg Railway. —Early in 1872 a committee 
of the inhabitants of Zurich was appointed to take steps to form 
a line up the Uetliberg. Messrs. Culmann and Pestalozzi, and 
Mr. J. Tobies, chief engineer, were consulted on the subject. 

A special difficulty presented itself in the formation of the 
ground. The incline from the town to the foot of the mountain 
itself was so slight as to need only the ordinary adhesion 
principle. But a special system was indispensable for the 
ascent of the steep mountain. Thus it would be necessary 
either to proceed to the foot of the mountain with an ordinary 
locomotive and continue the journey up with one adapted to 
incline travelling, or to continue the journey from the incline 
to the town with an incline locomotive. It was finally decided 
to use the ordinary locomotive under special precautions. 

The incline is at its steepest in the last 810 metres before 
the station of Uetliberg. 

In order that in the descent journey the driver may have 
full control over the speed, the locomotive is provided with an 
air break, such as is used on the Rigi line, and which can be 
made available instantaneously. Additional breaks are used for 
stopping the train at stations. The break machine is always at 
the lowest part of the train, to prevent accidents by breaking of 
couplings, etc. 

The trial journeys were from Wiedikon to Uetliberg, a 
distance of eight kilometres. In the first journey, which was 
accomplished in 21 minutes 26 seconds, the total weight of 
train (consisting of one passenger-carriage, containing 30 
persons at 70 kilog. each, and one truck containing 28 rails of 
175 kilog. each) amounted to over 17 tons. The second journey, 
with an additional weight of eight tons (nearly), performed the 
journey in 22 minutes 31 seconds. 

It was concluded, from these attempts, that the locomotives 
would amply fulfil the appointed conditions, which has proved 
to be the case. 

In good weather—in bad the line is less frequented— 
three passenger-carriages, containing forty persons, can be 
forwarded without any danger. These would weigh, together 
with the breaks, driver, and stoker, 26 tons, a weight reached 


ZURICH TO COIRE. 


43 

ill the second descent journey It is hoped that as a lighter 
model of passenger-carriages is contemplated, the weight of the 
train will be reduced and risk lessened. Later trials which the 
company have sanctioned, promise important results, in con¬ 
nection with this railway, to scientific knowledge. These at 
present show that the theory (of using ordinary locomotives) 
has asserted its right against cavillings of all sorts. The ascent 
of the steepest railway inclines is practicable with the ordinary 
adhesive locomotives without any danger. 

(For fares and times of starting, see local time-tables.) 

ZURICH TO COIRE. 

The whole journey may be made (i) by railway j but the 
pleasantest route is (2) by steamer to Rapperschwyl, and thence 
by rail to Coire. 

1. Crossing the Sihl, the road curves, and then crosses the 
rapid Limmat by an iron bridge. After passing Oerlikon, and 
crossing the Glatt, WalliselLen (p. ^3) is reached. The traveller 
is now in the Lancashire of Switzerland ; cotton-mills are con¬ 
tinually met with, especially in the neighbourhood of lister. 
The church in this town has an elegant pointed spire, and the 
picturesque Castle, utilized as a Court of Justice, Gaol, and 
Inn, is a conspicuous feature in the landscape. Four stations, 
Aathal, W^etzikon (see below), Bubikon, the highest part of 
the line near the Bachtel, with an inn on the summit; fine 
views. Riiti; diligence from here to the foot of the Bachtel. 

Rapperschwyl, at the extremity of the Lake of Zurich 

(P- 45)- 

2. By steamboat on 

THE LAKE OF ZURICH. 

The Lake is twenty-six miles long, and three miles wide. 
It is the Windermere of Switzerland, beautiful and picturesque, 
but not grand. There are many pretty villages on the banks, 
and the background formed by the Alps of Glarus and Uri is 
remarkably fine. 

The steamboat journey to Rapperschwyl is very interesting, 
and should not be omitted, unless the traveller has an important 
object in view in taking the train. 

On the left bank the first station of interest is Meilen. 
Here, in the winter of 1853, when the water was unusually 
low, were first discovered those remarkable lacustrine buildings 


ZURICH TO COIR.E. 


44 

that puzzle ethnologists? Who were these lake-dwellers? 
Whence came they? For what purpose did they isolate them¬ 
selves from the mainland ? Arrows, beads, hammers, spindles, 
grain, bones of tame animals, bread, plaited straw, seeds, and 
many other evidences of civilization, were exhumed on this spot, 
and can now be seen in the Zurich Museum (p. 40). For the 
water once more covers the piles at Meilen—they are, indeed, 
132 feet from the shore—and to see remains of such pile-build¬ 
ings it is needful to go farther inland to Wetzikon, where a 
former lake has become a peat-moor. Imbedded herein are the 
remains of such dwellings. It certainly needs some imagination 
to reconstruct them; but the owner, an enthusiastic ethnologist, 
has assisted fancy by a little model, that shows a structure built 
somewhat after the manner of a Swiss chalet, standing on an 
elevated platform, and connected with the shore by a rude 
bridge. It was in one of these lake communities that Sir 
Arthur Helps laid the scene of “ Realmah.” 

Meilen produces a fairly good wine 5 indeed, most of the 
low hills round the Lake of Zurich are planted with vineyards, 
but the wine produced is only average. 

Nearly opposite Meilen is Horgen, a good place for strik¬ 
ing off for Zug and the Rigi. 

The next station of interest is Mannedorf, known for an 
establishment where maniacs may be healed by prayer. The 
house is always full, and cures are said to be effected—chiefly, 
however, it appears, upon hysterical and hypochondriacal 
patients. The Swiss are in the minority of those who seek its 
founder’s aid, while Germans predominate. Lately the Govern¬ 
ment has taken the place under its jurisdiction, the villagers, 
who are not favourable to the establishment, having complained 
of the abuses practised. 

Stafa is the richest and one of the largest of the lake villages. 
It was here that Goethe lived for a while, and wrote his little play, 
Jeiy and Baetely,” inspired by Swiss scenery. Nearly oppo¬ 
site lies the islet of Uf6na.U, amid whose greenery a ruined 
church uprears its walls. In this retired spot, the property of 
the Convent of Einsiedeln, Ulrich von Hutten found an asylum 
and a grave. When striving to regain health at the Baths of 
PfiifFers, he was pursued, and would have fallen into the hands 
of his enemies, had not Zwingli shielded him, and, commend¬ 
ing him to the care of the Ufenau pastor, directed him thither. 
He died in his protector’s arms, who laid the restless spirit to 
rest at the early age of thirty-six. No stone marks the clod 


LAKE OF ZURICH. 


45 

that covers the remains of Luther’s friend, as trusty a cham¬ 
pion of truth as ever enlisted in her service. His pen, some 
letters, and an edition of his minor works, with MS. notes, 
were his sole possession on his death. They are preserved at 
Ziirich. Ufenau, it appears, was a favourite burial-place long- 
before Christian timesits earth has yielded some curious 
relics—skeletons, ornaments, and pottery, dating from the very 
earliest times. 

Wadenschwyl is quite a considerable place, owning a 
castle, elegant villas, crape and silk manufactories, tanneries, 
and dye-houses 5 indeed, it is the chief industrial towm on the 
lake. From here a diligence starts daily for Einsiedeln, reaching 
the village in less than two hours (p. 48). 

Ricllterscliwyl, built round a sheltering bay, is another 
favourite starting-point for Einsiedeln pilgrims. Its green slopes 
are remarkable for the scarlet pocket-handkerchiefs, printed 
with Black Madonnas, or views of Einsiedeln, that appear to 
grow on them perennially. They are spread out to dry, and a 
pretty bright touch they give to the landscape. Zimmermann 
lived here for many years; he lauds the attractions of Richter- 
schwyl as a home for philosophers in his famous book on 
Solitude.” 

The thriving, picturesque town of Rapperscliwyl closes 
the extreme eastern point of the lake, a conspicuous object long 
before the steamer touches below the knoll on which stand its 
dark old houses, snugly grouped together, overtopped by a 
monastery, and a venerable castle, built for a Crusader lord on 
his return from Palestine. The paved terrace commands a fine 
vista of the lake, a very gentle view of water and cultivated 
slopes ; the hills fall back here, while the Alps are behind the 
spectator. Rapperschwyl Rathliaus (Town-hall) deserves a 
visit, if only on account of its carved Gothic portal and sculp¬ 
tured wooden roof, not to mention a stove of colossal height, 
decorated with allegorical, scenic, and architectural bas-reliefs, 
executed in a manner that stamps them contemporary with 
IJolhein, and not unworthy that master. The artistic beauty 
of its ancient stoves is a characteristic of Switzerland. They 
are generally made of porcelain tiles ; this, and another preserved 
in the barracks at Ziirich, are the only known specimens in 
iron. 

Rapperschwyl has played a large part in Swiss history; its 
site made it important, and it has had to endure several sieges. 
It was here the conspirators met in 1350, before the massacre 


zOrich to coire. 


46 

at Zurich 5 while as for Zurich, their feuds with that town 
appear to have been chronic. 

Opposite Rapperschwyl, on a narrow tongue of land jutting 
far out into the lake, lies Hurden. A wooden bridge of 
the most primitive kind connects the two spots. While three- 
quarters of a mile in length, its breadth is restricted to twelve 
feet, and consists from end to end of loose planks, laid {not 
nailed) on wooden piers. It boasts no railing, so that in a strong 
gale it is difficult, sometimes impossible, to traverse j the meet¬ 
ing of two waggons is never without danger. Only invalids (but 
never very nervous ones) or very lazy people will care to drive 
across j it is quite sufficiently unpleasant to meet horses walk¬ 
ing, lest they turn shy. Fortunately the traffic is not consider¬ 
able. The bridge dates from 13^8, and has always been repaired 
after the primitive style of its first construction. It is held to 
be an indubitable testimony for a man’s sobriety if he can cross 
safely after a convivial evening. On the great pilgrimage days 
to Einsiedeln this bridge is one mass of pedestrians and a 
strange sight they present, men, women, and children, all clad 
in their best, clasping a rosary, and muttering Aves and Litanies 
as they w^alk. On these festival days the stream has been 
known to extend in one unbroken line from Rapperschwyl to 
Einsiedeln itself. 

This bridge ends the Lake of Zurich proper j the sheet of 
water beyond is called the Ober See. It is a shallower basin, 
dotted with some pretty villages, little visited except by fisher¬ 
men, and in the winter, when it regularly freezes over, and be¬ 
comes the skating rink of the whole neighbourhood. The 
larger lake rarely freezes entirely; it did so last in 1830, when 
practised skaters flew from Zurich to Rapperschwyl in less than 
two hours, a distance of twenty-four miles. At the end of the 
Ober See the Linth Canal flows into the Lake of Zurich 
(see below). 


Resuming the journey to Coire, the railway passes along the 
edge of the lake as far as Schmerikon. From Uznacb diligences 
run to Brunnen, Lachen, Einsiedeln, Schwyz. Numerous 
towns and villages noted for their manufacturing industry are 
passed. 

Near Schdnis, where the French and Austrians met in arms 
in 1799^ Linth Canal is approached. This canal owes 
its existence to a noble-hearted Swiss, Conrad Escher. Before 



LAKE OF WALLENSTADT. 


47 

its formation, the wide plain that extends from Rapperschwyl 
to Wallenstadt was a pestilential morass; the water meandered 
over the fields, carrying ague in its train ; the track became 
depopulated year by year. To obviate this, Escher proposed to 
lead the water into a navigable canal, that should connect the 
lakes usefully. He gave a large sum of money towards the 
undertaking, demanding help in return from the Cantons. In 
1822, thanks to his resistless energy, the canal was completed, 
the land redeemed, and rendered wholesome. Since that time, 
the Escher family are permitted to bear the name Von der 
Linth,” the nearest approach to a title possible in the Swiss 
Republic. 

At Wesen passengers for Glarus (p. 52) change carriages. 
A fine excursion is made from Wesen to the Speer, 4600 feet 
above the lake, commanding a magnificent view. Wesen is 
situated at the western extremity of 


THE LAKE OF WALLENSTADT, 

next to Lucerne, probably the grandest lake in Switzerland; it 
is only twelve miles long, and three broad. The northern shore, 
with precipitous cliffs, crags, and precipices, is rugged and almost 
savage in its character, while on the southern shore the scenery 
is fertile and pretty. On the top of the northern precipices is 
the village of Amden, with 3000 inhabitants. 

Leaving Wesen, the train passes along the southern side of 
the lake, through a series of tunnels, two of which are pierced 
with apertures on the side nearest the lake. The views on 
emerging from the tunnels are magnificent, especially after the 
first two—the Bayerbach Waterfall, the village of Amden, the 
Falls of the Serenbach. At Muhlehorn excursions may be 
made to Mollis, in the valley of Glarus, or boat journeys to the 
waterfalls, or to Wesen. At Murg the traveller may be 
tempted to lose a train, in order to enjoy the wonderful com¬ 
bination of mountain, lake, and valley, which here forms agn nd 
and imposing spectacle. Near Wallenstadt, which is an 
uninteresting place in itself, a view may be obtained of the entire 
length of the lake. 

Sargans (p- 31), the junction of the railway to Rorschach, 
Romanshorn, and Constance j the valley of the Rhine is reached, 
and from this point the route to Coire is the same as that 
described on pp. 31, 32. 


ZURICH TO EINSIEDELN. 


48 

FROM ZURICH TO EINSIEDELN, SCHWYZ, 

AND BRUNNEN. 

From Zurich to Richterswyl by boat (p. 4^). Or to Rich¬ 
ters wyl by the new railway recently opened from Zurich to 
Glarus. From thence by diligence to Einsiedeln in 2^ hours. 
[A new line of railway is in course of construction to Einsie¬ 
deln.] 

The carriage road winds uphill all the way. It leads for 
some time past rich meadow-lands bordered by fruit-trees, until 
ascending higher, the vegetation grows scantier j blue-eyed 
gentians and other mountain flowers peep out from the grass, 
while alongside the road rushes the Sihl, its cold grey colour 
b.etraying its recent glacier origin. The scenery loses its 
softer character, and grows Alpine and desolate > and by the 
time Biberbruck, the half-way station, is reached, the grand 
dark chains of the Glarner Alps, with their glacier-crowned 
summits, come full in view. The road still winds upwards, 
till the destination is reached. 

Stretched before the wanderer’s eye lies a wide green table¬ 
land enclosed by an amphitheatre of pine-clad hills, dotted with 
patches of snow; beyond which three isolated peaks, almost 
dolomitic in their quaint outline, uprear their majestic heads. 
In the midst is Einsiedeln (Hotel du Paon), a clump of bar¬ 
rack-like houses, of which there are over seven hundred, five 
hundred being inns. No wonder they thrive 3 even out of the 
pilgrimage season the place is full of devout worshippers, and 
at these periods people are glad to sleep under the shade of an 
awning in their carts and carriages. On a single elevation, so 
as to be in full view, stands the Monastery-Church of Ein¬ 
siedeln, the raison cCetre of the place, so strangely placed in a 
wide, desolate, barren moorland, distant from civilization and 
communication. No doubt, it is to these causes it owes its 
continued popularity 5 and it depends on the idiosyncrasy of the 
casual visitor whether his first thought on arriving is, this is 
the home of the miraculous Madonna, or, this is the birth-place 
of Paracelsus. A keener air blows here than by the lake, that 
is very healthful for a late autumn linger or an early spring 
outing. 

Einsiedeln’s fame rests upon the miracles worked by its 
Black Madonna. The foundation of the monastery dates back 
to Charlemagne. Meinrad, a count of Hohenzollern, and also 
a Benedictine monk, feeling a great craving for solitude, retired 


EINSIEDELN. 


49 

to a spot near Blberbrnck to pursue his devotions unmolested. 
Thither he brought his image of the Virgin, presented to him 
by the Abbess of Zurich, and here, by the help of another 
pious lady, he built a chapel to contain it. In vain did Meinrad 
try to live alone; people flocked from far and near to seek his 
advice. In despair, he retreated still farther into the wilds, 
pitching his tent in the present village of Einsiedeln, as the most 
inaccessible and unfrequented spot he could find. Food being 
scanty, two ravens daily supplied him with the necessaries of 
life; and so he lived for some time in lonely peace, till robbers, 
finally, foully attacked and murdered him, fancying he owned 
hidden treasures. The murder was discovered by means of 
the ravens, who followed the men to Zurich, shrieking around 
their heads, and, by their strange demeanour, attracting atten¬ 
tion. A chapel was built over Meinrad’s grave: pious men 
loved to dwell in its precincts j thus, by degrees, a stately 
monastery and church sprang into being. In the year 946 the 
whole stood ready for consecration j and the Bishop of Con¬ 
stance was invited to perform the act. Rising at midnight to 
say his orisons, he fancied he heard sweet sounds of music 
proceeding from the church, accompanied by all the offices 
customary at consecration. Next day, when about to begin the 
ceremony himself, a voice cried three times through the church, 
“ Brother, desist, God himself has consecrated this building.” 
This was on September r4th, and since that date the festival of 
the Angelic Consecration has been the grand ferial of Einsiedeln. 
A papal bull acknowledged the miracle, and promised special 
indulgences to pilgrims. Einsiedeln rose in importance, until it 
became the richest and most influential monastery in Switzer¬ 
land 3 its abbots were held by the Habsburgs as peers of the 
realm, and to this day they are known in the Catholic cantons 
as Princes of Einsiedeln. Their arrogance grew so great that, 
even in the twelfth century, some of the neighbouring com¬ 
munities revolted against their pretensions. Arnold of Brescia, 
then preaching at Zurich against the abuses of the clergy, found 
willing listeners. But the priests, backed by royalty, obtained 
the upper hand, and the leaders of revolt had to sue for pardon 
on their knees. From 15 to 1519 Zwingli was an inmate of 
Einsiedeln, and it was on the feast of the Angelic Consecration 
that he denounced the Romish errors with such vigour that all 
the monks left their cells, and the monastery stood empty for 
some time. The French revolutionists plundered the church, and 
thought to rob the sacred image, but that had been carried over 


ZURICH TO EINSIEDELN. 


50 

into Tyrol for safety before their approach. The year after its 
return 260,000 pilgrims came to visit it. The church has 
many filials as well as landed possessions, vineyards, orchards, 
and farms, and the brothers have considerable property in 
America. 

The present pile of buildings is the sixth or seventh erected 
since the foundation, Fire has been busy in its attempts at de¬ 
struction, but it has always spared the sacred image. The 
present monastery flanks the church on either side, forming a 
square, around it, which contains all the conventual requisites. 
The church, is in very bad taste, a roccoco aberration of the 
very worst type conceivable, gaudy with colour, overladen with 
gold, jewels, and marble an eyesore to a cultivated eye, a very 
vision of paradise to the ignorant peasant. It is a large building, 
consisting of nave and aisles in which side-chapels are niched ; 
each of these is sacred to a local saint, whose skeleton lies 
beneath the altar. Near the chief entrance is the Madonna^S 
Chapel, a structure of black marble standing quite isolated in 
the nave, a church within a church. The priests performing 
the offices enter it by gilt doors, and are enclosed like sheep 
in a fold, while without kneel the worshippers. Waxen ex 
votos, arms, legs, cows, bulls, horses, dogs, etc., are hung on 
its railings j votive candles, varying from little tapers to sturdy 
candles, are affixed to its spikes, injuring the marble by their 
constant drippings. 

It is not possible to see the Madonna closely, since none but 
priests may enter the railed enclosure of this chapel; but seen 
at a distance, the colour is a rich bronze, not black, and there 
is something quaint and benign about the figure that lends it a 
curious grace. Of course it, too, is overladen with jewels and 
line clothing j but the faces of the Virgin and Child are far 
from unattractive, despite their gaudy envelopments. 

Outside the church, a little below the broad flight of steps 
that leads to it, is erected a semicircle of booths, entirely devoted 
to the sale of rosaries, images, trinkets, devotional prints, and 
prayer-books. These rosaries are strung along the walls by the 
hundred, and one wonders how the dealers can sell enough to 
render the trade lucrative. Rosaries bought at Einsiedeln are, 
however, in great demand, and no pilgrim leaves without buying 
at least one for himself and every member of his family and 
friends as a memento. They are of every colour, shape, size, 
and variety, and a booth hung round with them from ceiling to 
floor presents quite a kaleidoscopic scene. 


EINSIEDELN TO SCHWYZ. 


51 

All Einsiedeln is devoted to the manufactory and sale of 
articles of this kind, and to the printing of devotional works. 

A' little below the booths stands a handsome Marble 
Fountain, shaped like an open-worked crown, which shelters 
a statue of the Virgin. The water trickles from fourteen spouts. 
Tradition says the Saviour drank from one on an occasion not 
further particularized, and left his blessing on the waters evermore. 
It is the custom for pilgrims to put their mouths to each of these 
openings, so as to be certain that their lips have touched the 
right one. It is a most strange spectacle to see them, men and 
women, going from one to the other spout,, and drinking a little 
of the water from each. 

From Einsiedeln a diligence runs twice daily to 
Schwyz, or the journey may be made on foot by the Hacken, 
a pass commanding fine views from the summit. On the 
diligence road the village of Rothenthurm —so named from a 
red tower of defence there standing—is passed. Between two 
and three miles from here, on the W., is the Lake of Egeri, 
and on the borders of the lake is Morgarten, where, in 1315, 
a fierce encounter took place between the Swiss and Austrians, 
under Duke Leopold. The Swiss only mustered 1300, while 
the Austrians had a force of 20,000. The battle did not last 
two hours, but the Austrians were cut to pieces. 

“It was on a clear winter morning that Duke Leopold 
and his army rode through this mountain pass towards the lake. 
The sun glinted on the bright spears and helmets of the men, 
who rode along jauntily, apprehending no danger, when suddenly 
the rocks seemed to become alive and precipitate themselves 
down in massive blocks upon their heads; it literally rained 
stones and rude missiles. The Swiss had got wind of the 
Austrian intentions, and hearing the Duke’s boast that he would 
‘ tread these peasants under foot,’ determined to be beforehand 
with him, and hiding themselves in their rocky fastnesses, 
thus surprised and utterly routed their enemies, for escape was 
impossible. Many gallant knights met their death in this 
ignominious manner, or were drowned in the lake into which 
their frightened horses dashed full speed. Thus was won 
the famous day of Morgarten, of great importance in Swiss 
annals, as from that time forward the power of the Austrian was 
broken. A chapel on the southern shore of the lake marks the 
burial place of the fallen, to whose memory an annual service is 
still held every i6th of November. The altar-piece is a picture 
of the battle.’* 


52 


ZURICH TO GLARUS. 


Schwyz, with a population of 6000, is the capital of the 
canton. It is pleasantly situated at the foot of the two-horned 
Mythen. Switzerland takes its name from this little out-of- 
the-way town (p. 65 ). 

Three miles from Schwyz is Brunnen (p. 66), on the 
Lake of Lucerne. 

Diligence from Schwyz to Zurich, Lucerne, Arth, or the 
MuottathaL 

FROM ZURICH TO GLARUS, 

A new line of railway has recently been opened from Ziirich 
to Glarus. It continues by the Lake of Zurich to Richterswyl 
(pp. 43—47). Then past stations Pfqffikon, Lachen, Siehnen. 
The Linth Canal (p. 46) is then approached. After station Bilten, 
the line turns abruptly southward, omitting Wesen, and joins 
the Wesen and Glarus line at Nafels (see below). 

Glarus (see below). 

FROM WESEN TO GLARUS. 

The journey occupies only half-an-hour. The only Roman 
Catholic town in the Canton of Glarus is Nafels, which is 
passed in the railway. Glarus, the capital of the canton, is 
in the midst of innumerable manufactories, the canton being 
famous for its various industries. It is situated at the foot of 
the Glarnisch, Wiggis, and Schilt. In 1861 it was almost 
entirely destroyed by fire. A fine view of the town and 
neighbourhood is obtained from the Burghiigel. Zwingli 
officiated at the church from 1506 to 1546. Curiously enough, 
this church is used by Roman Catholics and Protestants in 
common. 

Glarus is celebrated for the number of pleasant places for 
excursions within an easy distance. Among them, i. the Baths 
of Stachelberg, unrivalled for the beauty of their situation, 
and held in great repute for a strong sulphurous alkaline water 
which dribbles from a spring about two miles off. 2. The 
Pragel Pass, by the Muottathal to Schwyz. 3. To Linththal, 
where the scenery is magnificent, the valley being enclosed 
with snow mountains, the finest of which is the Tbdi. 

GLARUS TO DISSENTIS OR TRONS. 

This route passes Mitlbdi in a picturesque valley, and 
Schwanden, where the Sernf Thai and Linth Thai diverge. 


ZURICH TO ROMANSHORN. 


53 

Proceeding up the Linth Thai, Leukelbach, with its waterfall, 
Luchsingen, Hazingen, Diesbach (with fine waterfalls), are suc¬ 
cessively passed. 

Near Riiti are the Baths of Stachelberg^ with a 
powerful mineral spring, but of very limited supply. The 
views in the vicinity of the Selbsanft, Kammerstock, and other 
peaks, are very good. Excursions to the Tbdi mountain can be 
arranged from here. 

Linththal has numerous factories in the neighbourhood. 
Hence to Dissentis, in the Vorder Rhein Valley, is an arduous 
twelve hours’ journey by the Sand Grat Pass (9138 feet). Mag¬ 
nificent views are obtained of the Piz Russein (11,887 feet), 
and other summits of the Todi group. The path joins the high 
road near the wonderful bridge over the Russeiner Tobel from 
which either Dissentis or Trons is readily reached. 

GLARUS TO ILANZ OR FLIMS, FOR COIRE. 

Glarus to Elm by the Sernf Thai. (See p. 32.) 

From Elm to Ilanz is by the Panixer Pass (7907 feet). A 
guide is necessary, and the expedition requires thirteen hours’ 
fatiguing toil. By this route the Russians retreated in 1799- 

From Elm to Flims is by the Segnes Pass (8612 feet), 
under the Tschingel Spitz (10,230 feet). The path crosses the 
glacier, and passes the Martinsloch, the hole through which the 
sun shines twice in the year. A guide is needed. This route 
is shorter but more difficult than the Panixer. 

FROM ZURICH TO ROMANSHORN. 

Time, 3 hours. Stations, Oerlikon, Wallisellen, where 
the line to Coire, diverges (p. 43), Dietlikon, Effretikon, 
Kempthal. 

Winterthur, Junction with line to Schaffhausen, St. 
Gallen, and Rorschach. Population 7000. This town was 
once free, but gave up its freedom and became subject to 
Austria. For the last 400 years it has belonged to Zurich. 
Stations, IViesendangen, Islikon. Frauenfeld, a large manu¬ 
facturing town on the Murg. The capital of the Canton of 
Thurgau. Stations, Felwen^ Mulheim, Mdrstetten, Weinjelden, 
But glen, Sulgen, Erlen, Amriswyl. Romanshorn, p. 30. 

Romanshorn to Friedrichshafen (p. 29), to Schaffhausen 
and Basle (p. 21), to Rorschach and Coire (p. 30). 





54 


ZURICH TO RORSCHACH. 


FROM ZURICH TO RORSCHACH (BY ST. 

GALLEN). 

Zurich’to Winterthur, (p. 53). S)t2i\\onSj Rdterschen, Elgg, 
AadorJ, Eschlikon, Sirnach. Wyl, where a view of the Sentis 
is obtained. A long lattice bridge over the Thur, then Schwar- 
zenbach, Utzwyl, Flawyl, a large manufacturing village. 
After crossing the river Glatt, stations, Gossan, Winkeln, and 
Bruggen, where there is a remarkable bridge over the 
valley of the Setter. 

St. Gall (Hotel de St. Gall). This town, situated at a great 
height, is the capital of the Canton St. Gallen. It has con¬ 
siderable cotton manufactories, and is sometimes called the 
Manchester of Switzerland. The Abbey, founded by St. 
Gallus, an Irish monk, early in the 7th century, was at one 
time (8th century) the most celebrated seat of learning in 
Europe. The cburch, rebuilt iy 6 o, possesses some very an¬ 
cient relics. In the town are a Museum, Town Library, and 
Reading Room. The favourite excursion from St. Gall is to 
Appenzell and Weissbad, by way of Trogen and Gais by 
diligence. Whey cure establishments abound in all this neigh¬ 
bourhood. Innumerable excursions can be made from Weiss¬ 
bad, notably the "Wildkircbli, a hermitage dedicated to St. 
Michael, where Mass is held on St. Michael’s Day. Close by 
here is a stalactite cavern. The ascent of the Sentis, the 
highest mountain in Appenzell, can be made from Weissbad 
in about four hours. 

From St. Gallen to Rorschach, a distance of 9 miles. 
Stations St. Fiden, Mbrschwyl, are passed, frequent views of the 
Lake of Constance are obtained 3 and soon after the train has 
passed the stone bridge over the Goldach, a very fertile region 
is entered, and continues to Rorschach (p. 30). 


ZURICH TO LUCERNE BY RAIL. 

[For Zurich to Lucerne by way of Lake of Zurich, Horgen, 

and Zug, p. 37.] 

By railway the journey occupies about two hours. Stations, 
Altstetten (views of the Uetilberg), Vrdorf, Birmensdorf, 
Bonstetten, Hedingen, Affoltern, Metmenstetten, Knonau, Zug. 
Zug, population between 4000 and 4500, of whom only a few 
are Protestants. The town, which is the capital of Zug, the 


ZURICH TO LUCERNE. 


55 

smallest canton of the Confederation, contains various objects of 
interest. 

Among them, is the Arsenal, wherein is to be found the 
ancient standard, stained by the blood of its gallant but un¬ 
fortunate bearer, Pierre Collin, who perished at the battle of 
Arbedo, in 1422, when 3000 Swiss valiantly, but fruitlessly, 
strove to maintain the field against 24,000 Milanese. 

In the church of the Capuchins is an Entombment by 
Fiaviingo. In St. Michael’s church is a bone-house, where 
hundreds of skulls, labelled and inscribed with the name, age, 
and place of residence of the deceased, are piled up. 

THE LAKE OF ZUG 

is 9 miles long and 3 broad, and is 1370 feet above the level 
of the sea. 

The lake is most beautiful, and possesses many points of 
interest. The adjacent country is highly picturesque 3 the richly 
wooded banks, with the distant hills, and to the south, the 
stately Rigi, forming a very picturesque background. Small 
steamers are continually plying in various directions across the 
lake, alFording tourists every facility for visiting the more interest¬ 
ing portions of the surrounding shores. See local time tables. 

A short distance from Zug, on the steamboat journey, 
Pilatus, the Ross-Stock, and the Frohnalp are seen. Immensee 
is a charming little place, and those who have left the railway 
and intend to ascend the Rigi on foot, had better do so from this 
place. Arthj at the Southern extremity of the lake, is between 
the Rigi and the Rossberg. Train or omnibus from here to 
Goldau, where, in 1806, a large portion of the Rossberg, pene¬ 
trated by the heavy rains, was precipitated from a height of 
3000 feet into the valley below, swallowing up four villages, 
with upwards of five hundred of their inhabitants, together 
with several visitors. The traces of the disaster are still to be 
seen at Goldau and Lowerz. 

Railway from Arth to the summit of the Rigi (see p. 71). 

A diligence runs twice a day from Arth to Brunnen, (p. 66). 

Omnibus from Immensee to Kiissnacht (p. 64). 

Zug to Lucerne by rail. The bank of the Lake of Zug 
is skirted. Stations, Cham (look out for a charming view of 
Zug here), Rothkreuz, where the valley of the Reuss is entered, 
Gisikon, Ebikon. Then the line unites with the Swiss Central 
Railway, and Lucerne is reached. 

Lucerne (p. 58). 


56 


ZURICH TO ZUG. 


ZORICH to ZUG, BY THE ALBIS. 

The Albis road skirts the west bank of the Lake of Zurich 
as far as to Wollishofen ; then in a southerly direction to 
Adlischwyl, where a wooden bridge crosses the Sihl. The 
ascent then commences to Ober Albis, the highest part of 
the road. Near here is the Hochwacht, and the traveller is 
recommended to ascend to the pavilion on the summit, where 
a magnificent view is to be obtained. Then descend past the 
Tiirler See, a miniature lake, to Hausen, a pleasant village, with 
villas and a homoeopathic establishment. Then continue to 
Kappel, a place memorable in the history of the Reformation. 
When the Roman Catholic Cantons of Lucerne, Zug, Schwyz, 
Uri, and Unterwalden had declared war against Zurich and 
Berne, their troops advanced to Kappel, where a battle was 
fought, October ii, 1531. And here Zwingli fell. “When 
the first ranks had fallen and the rest fled, Zwingli, with a 
halbert in his hand, which he stretched across their course, in 
vain attempted to restrain their flight, calling out to them ‘ not 
to fear, for that they were in a good cause j to commend them¬ 
selves to God, and stand their ground.’ He appears to have 
been first beaten to the ground by a stone, and afterwards, on 
rising, or attempting to rise, to have been repeatedly thrown 
down, and trodden upon by the crowd. At length he received 
a wound in the throat from a spear, which he supposed to be 
mortal j when, sinking down on his knees, he exclaimed, ^ Is 
this to be esteemed a calamity ? They can kill the body, but 
the soul they cannot touch.’ When the soldiers came to strip 
the sHin, he was found yet alive, lying, on his back, with his 
hands clasped together, and his eyes lifted up to heaven. He 
was asked if he wished a confessor to be sent for j then if he 
would invoke the Virgin j and on his declining both, he was 
immediately despatched. When the body was discovered to be 
that of Zwingli, it was condemned by a military tribunal to be 
cut in quarters, and then burned to ashes; which barbarous 
but impotent sentence, with other indignities, was accordingly 
carried into execution.” 

The spot where the body of Zwingli was found is indicated 
by a metal plate in the rock, with a Latin and German inscription. 

In the old Gothic Church at Kappel maybe seen some good 
stained.glass. Continuing from Kappel, the traveller will next 
reach Baar (p. 37), where the road from Horgen to Zug is joined. 

Baar to Zug, two miles. 


BASLE TO LUCERNE. 


57 


ZURICH TO THE RIGI AND LUCERNE, BY 
HORGEN AND THE LAKE OF ZUG. 

There is not a pleasanter journey from Ziirich to Lucerne 
than by this route, although it takes a much longer time than 
by rail. 

The traveller will take steamboat from Ziirich to Horgen 
(p. 4.^), and then proceed on foot, by carriage, or by omnibus to 
Zug. The road ascends as far as to Hirzel, and then descends 
to the valley of the Sihl. From the covered Sihl Bridge to 
Baar the views are very beautiful. Baar (p. 56) is celebrated 
for its charnel-house, where may be seen ■ the skulls of many 
generations of the inhabitants piled up in a pyramid. Zug is a 
little more than two miles from Baar. 

For the Rigi the traveller will proceed as far as to Arth 
(p. 55) by steamboat on the Lake of Zug, where he will disem¬ 
bark, and ascend the mountain either on foot or by rail (p. 71). 

For Lucerne, take the steamboat to Tmmensee, where 
omnibus can be taken to Kiissnacht (p. 64), and from Kiiss- 
nacht by steamboat to Lucerne (p. j8). 

For this trip, as it is most desirable to arrange it so that 
steamboats and omnibuses may be found in correspondence, the 
traveller is recommended to start from Ziirich by the first boat 
in the morning, and consult local time-tables for the rest. 

FROM BASLE TO LUCERNE. 

From Basle to Olten (p. 34). 

The short journey from Olten to Lucerne (thirty-three miles) 
is through delightful country; and as many travellers approach 
Switzerland by this route, it is a memorable one with them, as 
they get their first glimpses of the glories of the Bernese 
Oberland. Take a seat on the left of the carriage. 

Aarburg is the first station after leaving Olten. The old 
castle (1660) was once the residence of the governors, then a 
State prison, and it is now a gaol and arsenal. Aarburg was 
destroyed by fire in 1840. Zofingen, celebrated, amongst 
other things, for two good ball-rooms, built on the branches of 
some old trees, close by the Schiitzenhaus, and for remains of a 
Roman bath, and other ancient relics. Reiden 5 the large 
house on the hill near the station was once a Lodge of the 
Knights of Malta. Stations, Dagmersellan^ Nehikon, Wauwyi 
(here the first view of the Mbnch, Eiger, Jungfrau, and other 


LUCERNE. 

mountains, is obtained). Surs66, a pleasant old town, with 
some quaint architecture. The double eagle of the House of 
Habsburg is still upon its gates. A little beyond Nottwyl the 
Lake of Sempach is skirted. The lake is small—six and a half 
miles by two and a half, and not beautiful. The neighbourhood 
all around Sempacll is, however, very interesting, on account 
of its being the scene of one of the most thrilling chapters in 
Swiss history. The Austrians for the third time invaded 
Switzerland. Only 1400 Swiss met their overwhelming army, 
under the command of Duke Leopold. The battle would have 
been fatal to the Swiss, but for the heroism of Arnold von 
Winkelried, who threw himself upon the Austrian spears. 

“Still on the serried files he pressed, 

He broke their ranks and died.” 

Inspired with a new courage, the Swiss, rushing over 
Winkelried’s dead body, slew 2600 of the enemy, and signally 
defeated the Austrians. The battle took place July 9, 13865 
four stone crosses mark the site of the engagement. 

Between Sempach and Rothenburg, good views of the Rigi 
and Pilatus. Emm nbriicke, by the side of the Reuss (left), then 
through a tunnel, and Lucerne is reached. 

LUCERNE (Germ., Luzern). 

[Hotel du Cygne (Swan), conducted by Mr. H. Haefeli. This 
Hotel is delightfully situated, close to the steamboat station 
on the lake, and commands magnificent views. Circular 
Tickets and Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son may 
be obtained here]. 

The Railway Station is on the left bank of the lake. 
The New Bridge crosses the Reuss between the station and the 
town. 

The Post Office is also on the left bank, near the Church 
of the Jesuits. There is a branch office on the Schweizerhof- 
Quay. 

Steamboats (which touch at the Railway Station) run at 
intervals throughout the day to Fliielen and back (p. 65). See 
local time bills. 

Rowing Boats (not recommended). See fixed tariff. 

Diligence Office, at the Branch Post-office, Schweizerhof 
Quay. 


LUCERNE. 


59 

Lucerne, one of the most populous towns in Switzerland 
(16,000 inhabitants) is situate on the western extremity of its 
lake, by the River Reuss. Its walls and watch-towers date from 
the 14th century, and in ancient days the town of Lucerne 
occupied a far more important position among Swiss towns than 
now. It has always been a residence of the Papal Nuncios, and 
at the present day nine-tenths of its inhabitants are Roman 
Catholics. 

Lucerne contains numerous old buildings. Its lake is the 
finest in Switzerland, and in its immediate neighbourhood are 
two of the most celebrated Swiss mountains, Rigi and Pilatus— 
famous, not for their height, but because from them most can 
be seen. 

As the traveller leaves the Railway Station, he will be 
charmed with his first._yiew. In"frorirts the lake; which, in 
other parts rugged'and sublime, wears at this point a fair and 
smiling aspect. To the right is Pilatus; far away in the 
distance, seeming to rise from lake to sky, are the mountains of 
the Bernese Oberland; opposite is the Rigi, with the villages 
nestling at its feet; and to th^lett^s the town, with its 
churches, its towers, its queer old streets, and its four bridges. 

Of these bridges, two are modern, but the other fWO number 
with the special sights of Lucerne. They are not thrown 
straight across the river, and are roof&i^aLv^r. | 

The oldest is the KappelWySlj^ (Chapelbridge), dating ; ’’ 

from the beginning of the "i/^Jh century. It is decorated with i . 
IJ4 curious paintings, so suspended, that anyone crossing ' 
from the north side beholds in succession seventy-seven scenes 
from the lives of the joint patron saints of the town, SS. Mau- \ 
rice and Leger; but coming in the opposite direction, the pic- 
tures seen are commemorative of events in the history of the 
Swiss Confederation. This structure, however, is likely to be 
replaced by one that will be passable for vehicles; and then, at 
the behest of modern convenience, will a truly historical land¬ 
mark disappear. Near the north end of the bridge is a 
Chapel, dedicated to St. Peter, and containing four good paint- j 
mgs^^ty^eschwanden. Hard by stands the 'Wasserthurm, | 
rising from the middle of the river. It is now used as a de¬ 
pository for the archives of the town. It was originally a Roman 
lighthouse (Lucerna), from which the town probably derived its 
name. 

The other covered bridge, near the Basle Gate, is called the 
Miihlenbriicke (Mill-bridgel. It was erected early in the 






LUCERNE. 


6o 

15 th century. It is decorated with thirty-four strange pic¬ 
tures, with strange inscriptions/’ representing The Dance of 
Death.” Our readers may remember the conversation between 
Prince Henry and Elsie in Longfellow’s Golden Legend ”— 

“ The dance of Death. 

All that go to and fro must look upon it, 

Mindful of what they shall be; while beneath, 

Among the wooden piles, the turbulent river 
Rushes impetuous as the river of Life.” 

The Stiftskirche, or Hofkirche, dedicated to S. Leger, 
stands at the eastern end of the town. The body of the 
church is in the Italian 17th century style 5 the two slender 
towers are older, and date from the beginning of the i6th 
century. It has two side-altars, with carved wood reliefs, and 
finely-carved stalls and painted glass windows j also an excellent 
organ, upon which there are daily performances, for the benefit 
of those willing to invest one franc for the privilege of hearing 
it. The peal of bells is fine, and the ancient mode of ringing 
is still adhered to. On the largest bell is the inscription, Vivos 
voco, mortuos plango, fulgura frango ” (‘^ I call the living, be¬ 
wail the dead, disperse the storms ”). Round three sides of the 
churchyard are arcades ^ the southern one affords beautiful views 
of the lake and the mountains. In these cloisters are some fine ' 
frescoes (two by Deschwanden), and numerous monuments in 
good preservation. The old tombstones are very curious ; on 
some of them are carved the insignia of the guild or trade to 
which the deceased belonged in his lifetime; as, for instance, a 
hammer and tongs for a blacksmith, a fish for a fishmonger, etc. 

The Churcll of the Jesuits, with its handsome interior, 
is a good example of the characteristic style of that order. 
Notice the altar-piece and relics in the second chapel on the 
right. 

The Schweizerhof Quai, with its fine avenue of trees, 
which is the promenade of Lucerne, stands on ground reclaimed 
from the lake, over which there was at this part formerly a very 
long bridge, stretching as far as the Stiftskirche. On the 
parget will be seen an index to the chain of the Alps. The 
view from hence comprises a fine semicircle of mountains, from 
the Rigi to Pilatus. The Rigi Kuhn, the Rossberg, Vitznauer 
Stock, Ross Stock, Biirgenstock, Buochser Horn, the Titlis, 
Stanserhorn, etc., etc., will be readily distinguished by means of 
the indicator referred to. 

In the Town Hall are some fine carvings, done in 1605, 


LUCERNE. 


6l 

by a native of Breslau. There is also an old fresco, representing 
the death of Gundolhngen, who led the men of Lucerne at the 
battle of Sempach. 

The Arsenal (fee demanded) is full of objects of interest 
to the antiquary. The reputed sword of Tell is shown herej 
also a number of halberds, battle-axes, and suits of armour 
from native battle-fields, especially from that of Sempach. 
Two flags captured at sea in the memorable battle of Le- 
panto, when the maritime power of the Turks in Europe was 
Anally broken. These were presented by a Knight of Malta, 
who was a native of Lucerne. 

The famous L ion of Lucerne, near the Stiftskirche, 
is the greatest curiosity oF the place. It is a large ,lion hewn 
out of the sol*i d sand stone rock, in memory of the Swiss Guards 
who flied^ in defending the royal family of France, in August 
and September, 1792. It is truly a magnificent work of art, 
“ admirable in conception and execution, and touching forcibly 
both the imagination and the feelings.” This colossal piece of 
sculpture, 28^ feet long and 18 feet high, represents a dying 
lion, with his side transfixed by a broken spear, and protecting 
the shield of the Bourbons even in the agonies of death. It is 
surrounded w'ith ivy and other creeping plants, and from the 
rock beside it a mountain stream leaps down to a pool below 
in which the lion is reflected. This exquisite monument was 
originally suggested by General Pfyffer, one of the surviving 
Swiss. The fnqdel_£still to be seen in a building hard by) 
was finished by Thorwaldsen, and from this design (with some 
slight alterations) the actual monument was sculptured by 
Ahorn, of Constance. Near the Hon is a chapel where, on 
August loth, a special solemn mass is celebrated in memory of 
the slain. The altar-cloth is the work of the Duchess d’Angou- 
leme, daughter of Louis XV L, the last survivor of the terrible 
scene annually commemorated. 

Close at hand is Stauffer’s Alpine Museum, which is 
well worthy the attention of any tourist with a taste for natural 
history. There are numerous groups of Alpine animals and 
birds, and extensive collections of butterflies and botanical 
specimens. All the specimens in the Museum are the work of 
Stauffer, the proprietor, an intelligent man, who is always ready 
to give information as to the natural history of the Alps. 
Duplicates of his specimens are on sale. He is proposing to 
establish a collection of living specimens of Alpine birds and 
animals. 





62 


LUCERNE. 


In the same immediate neighbourhood is the celebrated 
Glacier GaLTllen {Gletscher-garten). Here, in the so-called 
“ GiahtT Pots,” and other phenomena, the student of nature 
may see the still existent results of the mighty forces that were 
at work in that marvellous undated epoch, when enormous 
glaciers, to which any now known are mere bagatelles, covered 
th^ whole of Europe. Besides the sixteen excavations illus¬ 
trative of glacial action, there are other^attractions forTfsrtnrs- 
to this garden, especially a collection of objects found in the 
“lake dwellings” discovered atBaldegg, 12 miles from Lucerne, 
in 1871. These objects are of great interest 3 they consist of 
66 instruments made of bone, 6 of wood, and 140 of stone; 
besides about 100 fragments of pottery, various specimens of 
fruit and leather, and a number of teeth, bones, antlers, and 
horns of animals. Amongst the bone implements we may 
specially note a drinking-vessel, very elegantly wrought 3 a spade 
of stag’s horn 3 a stag’s horn with two stone chisels 3 a weaving 
or knitting instrument 3 various pointed and cutting instru¬ 
ments 3 a knitting-needle made of a boar’s tooth 3 a well-pre¬ 
served bone knife in shape of a dagger. Amongst the wooden 
instruments, a little oval plate, with a small hole in each focal 
point, is the most noticeable. Amongst the stone implements 
are many hatchets—one made of flinty slate, very well wrought 3 
another of greenstone, with an edge as sharp as a knife 3 also 
many chisels, hammers, knives, spear-heads, and grinding- 
stones. The pottery includes conical weights for fishing-nets, 
and fragments of various clay vessels, some prettily ornamented. 
On one is the crust of something cooked, and partly burnt ! The 
vegetable collection consists of hazel-nuts, an acorn, some 
carbonized wheat, carbonized pieces of apple, etc. The animal 
specimens are two small pieces of untanned thick leather, and 
the teeth, horns, claws, bones, of the boar, stag, roebuck, bear, 
badger, beaver, ox, sheep, goat, horse, and dog. 

It is not so much for any special attractions in the town 
itself, as for its beautiful situation and surroundings, 
that Lucerne is justly celebrated. From the windows of the 
Swan Hotel you may gaze upon the lovely lake, and count 
upwards of a score of mountain peaks in the encircling pro¬ 
spect 3 or you may stroll through groves of trees, and along 
pleasant promenades close at hand, and enjoy magnificent 
scenery with but little exertion. Short walks to the Drei 
Linden, Allenwinden, or Little Rigi, in the vicinity, will afford 
varied and more extensive prospects. 


LAKE OF LUCERNE. 


63 

Of somewhat longer expeditions in the neighbourhood there 
are plenty for which visitors can arrange to walk or ride, as 
suits their strength or convenience. There is the fine view 
from the chapel in Herrgottswald (God’s Wood), reached by 
following the carriage road for 4^ miles, and then tracking the 
forest paths for an hour, and finally by ascending a prodigious 
number of wooden steps. This jaunt may be extended to the 
beautiful valley known as the Eigenthal. 

The pretty village of Adligenschwyl (4^ miles) is a favourite 
drive j the route can be varied, and pedestrians can take a plea¬ 
sant footpath from the Kussnacht road. 

Lovers of the rod and line will find good sport at Rothsee, 
li mile along the Zurich road. • 

For the view from the Giitsch, at the back of the Hospital 
Church, in the Basle road, it is well worth taking the trouble of 
the ascent. 

An interesting drive of about 10 miles is to take the Berne 
road for nearly 4 miles, then turning off by the Gorge of 
the Renkloch, at the foot of Pilatus, and returning by Krienz 
to Lucerne. 

But these short trips are all on terra Jirma, whereas it is by 
crossing the bosom of the lovely lake that the places of chief 
interest are reached, and the fairest charms of the district dis¬ 
closed. 


THE LAKE OF LUCERNE. 

There is not to be found in Europe a lake more complete 
and perfect in the grandeur of its mountain scenery, the_£uiet 
beauty o f its banks, the poetry of its legendary associations, and 
the~t!iidless variety of its charms, than the Lake of Lucerne, 
otherwise known as the Vierwaldstiitter See, or Lake of the 
Four Forest Cantons. It is between twenty-five and twenty- 
six miles long, and varies from one to four miles in breadth. In 
shape it is nearly cruciform. A thousand objects will interest 
the traveller on every hand. “ So clear is the lake, that you 
can in some deep places see to the bottom j it does not look 
like water, but a sheet of blue glass spread over deep caverns ; 
and the fish look as if they were floating in air, and the weeds 

like uncultivated gardens.Enchantment gilds the scene ; 

now a castle on a hill, now a shrine with a richly decorated 
image of the Virgin reared upon some isolated piece of rock; 
now an arm of the lake, disclosing a world of wonders that we 



LUCERNE. 


64 ■ 

never dreamt were there.” These are some of the things for 
which the eyes must be kept open. 

The steamers for the Lake Tour start from the station 
immediately facing the Swan Hotel. There are six or eight 
boats a day, some of which are express. Tickets are issued for 
the tour of the lake, in which case the journey may only be 
broken at Fliielen. It must be noted that different steamers 
stop at different places, and proper inquiries must therefore be 
made before embarking. Tourists who have not much time at 
their disposal will probably be content with the trip to Fliielen 
and back (which will give them a general survey of the lake), 
and of course an ascent of the Rigi (see p. 70). 

Soon after leaving Lucerne by the steamer, a splendid view 
of the town and its environs is obtained. After passing the 
bold promontory of the Meggenhorn, and the little island of 
Altstad, the Bernese Alps lift their snowy summits into view. 
So far, the adjacent shores have been low hills, sprinkled with 
villas; we now see the two bays of Alpnach and Kiissnacht 
stretching away to west and east respectively. 

The former bay affords a picturesque trip to Alpnach 
(Hotel Pilatus) by steamer in li hour, or by rowing boat in 
'X hours. The landing-places are Hergiswyl (for the ascent of 
Pilatus, p. 69) j Stanzstad, with its bridge across the lake to 
Acheregg, its old fourteenth century tower by the waterside j 
and the majestic Titlis, rising to the height of 11,000 feet, in 
the background. The Castle of Rotzberg, on the east side of 
the lake, has its romantic legend, felling how, when Switzerland 
was expelling the Austrians in 1308, Jagelli, a young Swiss 
soldier, was admitted to the castle by Annelli, a damsel within 
it, and then managed to introduce a band of his companions, 
who speedily made themselves masters of the stronghold. 

The next stopping-place is Rotzloch, and at the extremity 
of the lake is .\lpnach-Gestad. Here was situated the noted 
“ slide,” an immense wooden trough down the slopes and across 
the ravines, down which timber hewn on Mount Pilatus rushed 
eight miles in six minutes, for transmission by the Reuss and 
Rhine to Holland. Napoleon 1 . was the chief customer for his 
dockyards, till his retirement to Elba. The church is built of 
wood that came down by this slide. 

The western bay (that of Kiissnacht) has on its northern 
bank the ruins of an Austrian fort, New Habsburg, destroyed 
in 1352 by the Swiss. The town of Kiissnacht stands at the 
extremity of the bay. 


LAKE OF LUCERNE. 


65 

A capital and very enjoyable excursion can be made by 
leaving the steamer at Kiissnacht, and taking the omnibus to 
Immensee (p .55 )» thence proceeding by steamer to Arth, and 
on by diligence to Schwyz and Brunnen (p. 66). From thence 
Lucerne is reached by steamer. The whole round would 
occupy between nine or ten hours, exclusive of stoppages. 

We will now pursue the ^{^.entral route across .the lake to 
Fliielemjfirst pausing to notice the two giant forms that tower 
so'l::tThs{ncuously on either hand—Pilate on the right, grim and 
formidable, frowning in rugg ed grandeuxT^the RigLun thg.J^ft, 
beaut ifull y clothed with forest, and field, and orchard, smiling 
as if storm and tempTst were things undreamt of. 

Passing the promontory of Tanzenberg, and the ruined 
Castle of Hertenstein, we reach Weggis, the best landing- 
place for those who mean to walk up the Rigi. It is a tranquil 
little village, whose inhabitants subsist chiefly by selling fruit 
to the people of Lucerne 5 and if any traveller wishes to linger 
by the lake, free from anything like town distractions, he cannot 
do better than seek the calm stillness of Weggis. Vitznau 
is the next place reached, wearing more of an air of bustlTng'tnrr^ 
portance as it is the terminus of the Rigi railway (p. 71). Behind 
the village is the high, precipitous Rothenfl'uh, containing the 
stalactite grotto, 400 yards long, known as the Waldisbalm, 
little visited, however, as it is difficult of access. At Vitznau it 
ap^ggfs^as if the end of the lake was reached ; for a promontory 
from the Rigi on the left, and another from the Biirgenstock on 
the right, somewhat overlap each other. But between these 
two points, called the Nasen (Noses), the steamer pursues its 
course, and a new scene bursts upon us in the broad and beau¬ 
tiful gulf of Buochs, with the Stanzer Horn (6000 feet), and 
the Buochser Horn (5600 feet), watchTfi^^over it. Near the 
foot of the latter mountain stands Buochs, sacked by the French 
in 1798. A little farther on, on the same shore is Bekenried, 
a picturesque little village, and a justly popular watering-place, 
with ample facilities for excursions to Stanz, Meiringen, Seelis- 
berg, etc. 

On the opposite side of the lake is the pretty little village of 
Gersau, well sheltered from wind and storm and with a climate 
so mild, that it affords a capital resting-place for invalids in the 
colder months of the year. Gersau has a notable history. In 
the year 1390 it bought its freedom from the Lords of Moos, 
and remained a well-administered, independent republic till its 
conquest by the French in 1798. It was annexed to the Canton 

5 




LUCERNE. 


66 

of Schwyz in 1817. East of Gersau is the Kindliinord Chapel, 
which derives its name from the tragic act of a poor tiddler, 
who returning from a marriage festival, murdered his starving 
child, at the place indicated by the black cross on the rocks. 
Excursions may be made from Gersau to the Rigi-Scbeideck 
and the Hochfluh. 

Proceeding from Gersau, we see the Mythen, or Mitre Peaks 
(<5900 feet), and at their base Schwyz, the^cfapTtal of the "Canton 
of the same name. From Treib, at which the steamer next 
calls, Seelisberg is visited, arJ^TaTso the picturesque and well- 
sheltered retreats for invalids near the chapel of Maria-Sonnen- 
berg. 

Opposite Treib is Brunn en, o nce a town of considerable 
commercial importance, and still a busy little place. There are 
some good hotels and pensions. The air is pure and cool, even 
in the summer months, and the surrounding scenery very fine. 
On the Sust are two legendary paintings, one representing a 
contest for the baptism of the land between two of the old 
Swedish invaders, on which occasion, as the inscription testifies, 

“ Swyter besiegt Swen und griindet Schwyz” (Swy ter conquered 
Sw^en, and founded Schwyz) j the other picture represents the 
three confederates of Griitli. It was at Brunnen that Aloys 
Reding roused his compatriots to resist the French in 1798. 

From Brunnen a number of pleasant trips may be readily 
undertaken. To ascend the Stoss (4000 feet) will take two and 
a half hours ; the Frohnalp will require two hours longer. 

Schwyz can be reached in half an hour’s drive. It is a 
town of nearly 6000 inhabitants, and of some historical im¬ 
portance. The Canton gave its name to Switzerland, as its 
sons were the most distinguished in the celebrated defeat of the 
Austrians at Morgarten in 1315- At Schwyz may be seen an 
historical model of the Muotta and the retreat of the Rus¬ 
sians before the French in 1799, when, ^ fearful struggle, lasting 
for eighteen days and nights, Suwarrow was beaten from point 
to point, losing 6000 men, and most of his horses and artillery, 
and only returning to Russia himself to die within sixteen days. 
Of other places easily reached from Brunnen, we may just 
mention the much-frequented Curhaus Axenstein, on the 
Brandli (three miles), to which an omnibus runs twice daily ; 
Morschach j the Frohnalpstock j Lake of Lowerz 3 Fall of the 
Gestubtach 3 the Gross Mythen, etc. 

Brunnen to Schwyz, Einsiedeln, and Zurich, p. 48. 

Brunnen by Arth to Zug, p. 53. 



LAKE OF LUCERNE. 


67 

On leaving Brunnen, we enter that portion of the lake of 
which the shores are sacred ground in the legendary lore of 
Switzerland. This is the Bay of Uri. The scenery is here 
m uch bolder than in other parts oTTlie lake ^ in many places 
bare^j^erp^dicular cliffs rising in romantic ruggedness. At the 
entrance to the bay, closeTo’Treib, is the Mytenstein, with its 
inscription in huge gilt letters, executed in 1859. It commemo^ 
rates the gratitude of Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden to the 
German poet Schiller, for the drama in which he has embodied 
the legend of Tell. At Griitli, which is simply a green plain, 650 
feet above the water, with a few unpretending dwellings spread 
on its fertile surface, was held the meeting of the Swiss con¬ 
federates (one of whom was the father-in-law of the celebrated 
William Tell), who determined to maintain their independence 
against the tyranny of Austria. It was on November 8, 1307, 
that Arnold of Unterwalden, Flirst of Uri, and Stauffacher of 
Schwyz, and thirty others, bound themselves together, for the 
good of their brethren, and the evil of no man,” and solemnly 
swore to drive out the Austrians, without taking revenge for 
their oppression. So well did they carry out their resolution, 
that, after a series of wars, lasting one hundred and fifty years, 
their descendants succeeded in establishing their independence, 
which they have ever since retained. At Griitli are still pointed 
out the three springs which are said to have made their miracu¬ 
lous appearance when the confederates joined hand in hand in 
solemn covenant. 

% 

“ For the father-soil whicn they trod, 

For freedom and hearth, they stood, 

While they vowed to the mightiest God 
To cast out the tyrant brood. 

Thus our hearts, with thy spirit still glowing, 

O Grutli, thy name shall retain. 

So long as our Rhine shall be flowing, 

So long as our Alps shall remain.” 

The Swiss Practical Guide states that the owner of the 
Grutli was about to build an hotel there in 1838. The children 
of Switzerland undertook a subscription to prevent this dese¬ 
cration ; they limited each offering to ten cents (one penny), 
and the result was double the amount required.” 

Tell’s Platte is a small rocky shelf, on which it is said 
that the" S\VT5^ pntTTDrIeaped from the boat of Gessler. Above 
the ledge of rock is a little chapel called “ Tel l’s Chapel,” 
which was erected about thirty years after the death of Tell; 






LUCERNE. 


68 

it contains some pictures and rough frescoes illustrating the 
hero’s history. On the Friday after Ascension Day, this little 
chapel is the scene of a national demonstration, mass being 
performed, and a patriotic sermon delivered, in presence of large 
numbers of people assembled for the occasion from all parts of 
the Swiss Republic. 

Above Tell’s Chapel is the fine new Axens trasse, 
with its tunnel a little further on through the" clTlF ^ ot the 
Axenberg, from the openings in which exquisite panoramic 
views are obtained. This .wonderful x,oad,_from Gersau and 
Brunnen to Fliielen, is a fine specimen of engineering. Till 
1865 the east shore of the Bay of Uri was impassable, except 
by a very dilficult mountain path, leading by Morschach and 
Sisikon. 

The terminus of the lake journey is at Fliielen (Hotel Croix 
Blanche et Poste). At a distance of two miles"(ornnibus, half¬ 
franc) is Altdorf, at an elevation of 1500 ft. Here are a colossal 
plaster statue of Tell, and a fountain—the former marking the 
position of the father, and the latter that of the child, in the 
celebrated trial of skill directed by the tyrant Gessler. The tall 
tower is of earlier date, the frescoes having been added since. 
It will be remembered that, according to the legend (now gene¬ 
rally received as mythic), Gessler had elevated his hat in the 
market-place, and ordered all passers-by to make obeisance. 
For refusing, Tell was ordered to show his famed skill in archery 
by shooting an apple off his son’s head. He was successful, but 
Gessler saw a second arrow, which Tell had secreted. On being 
questioned, the bold archer said it was for Gessler’s heart, had 
the child been harmed. Tell was then, for his audacity, taken 
prisoner, and hurried away in Gessler’s boat towards his castle 
at Kiissnacht. A tempest arose 5 none but Tell could steer 5 
he seized the opportunity, sprang ashore at what is now known 
as Toll’s Platte, intercepted Gessler at Kiissnacht, and killed 
him. At Biirglen (one and a half miles from Altdorf), a chapel 
rnarking Tell’s birthplace, and a bridge where Tell died in try¬ 
ing to save a drowning child, are shown. 

Of late years the William Tell legends have been gradually 
passing from the domain of history into that of fiction. The 
first book which dared to broach so startling a heresy was pub¬ 
licly burnt at Altdorf by the hangman. But in spite of this 
spirited protest, the idea has gained ground. Contemporary 
chroniclers make no allusion to the alleged events of his career, 
and not for a century or two do we find any trace of the tradi- 




PILATUS. 


69 

tions in their present form. The establishment of the chapels, 
and the widespread belief in the legends are almost the only 
arguments in their favour. Those most qualified to judge, 
whilst conceding that there probably was a William Tell amongst 
the confederates, assert that the events linked with his name by 
imaginative patriots rest upon no more solid basis of fact than 
do the stories of Sir Lancelot of the Lake, or the Lily Maid of 
Ashtolat, in the fascinating pages of the Laureate. 

For route over the St. Gothard Pass, see p. 172. 

P ILATUS 

may be ascended either from Hergiswyl (p. 64), or Alpnach 
(p. 64), to w'hich places steamers ply three times daily, the 
journey to Hergiswyl occupying thirty-five minutes, and to 
Alpnach one hour and a quarter. On either side there is a good 
hotel—that of theKlimsenhornonthe Hergiswyl side and Bellevue 
on the Alpnach side. The route which gives the greatest variety 
of scenery is to ascend by way of Hergiswyl and descend to 
Alpnach. The ascent occupies three and the descent four hours. 
In ascending this mountain we shall betreading in the footsteps 
of royalty, inasmuch as Her Majesty Queen Victoria, with the 
Princess Louise and Prince Arthur, ascended it from Alpnach, 
on August 31, 1868. 

It is one of the most interesting mountains in these parts ; 
being easy of access from Lucerne, and not difficult of ascent, 
except just toward the summit. The name of the mountain has 
been the subject of much dispute, some alleging that it is merely 
a corruption of the Latin pileatus,'’ capped, in allusion to the 
clouds which generally surround its summit. It has been, and 
is to this day, the weather guide to all this part, and the popular 
saying runs thus :— 


“ If Pilatus wears his cap, serene will be the day; 

If his collar he puts on, then mount the rugged way ; 

But if his sword he wields, then stay at home, I say,” 

Others aver that the name is derived from Pontius Pilate, the 
governor of Judea, who, when he had committed the terrible sin 
which makes his name a reproach, filled with remorse, fled from 
Judea, and took refuge in the fastnesses of this melancholy 
mountain; there the wild crags and dark precipices were his 
lonely resorts; upon these gloomy scenes his mind dwelt for 
many years, until at last, unable to bear his remorse, and filled 



LUCERNE. 


70 

with despair, he committed suicide in a lake near the summit of 
t he mountain. But his spirit continued to haunt the place, and 
when travellers have gone up those dismal heights, they have 
seen him come up from the waters, and slowly and solemnly 
go through the ceremony of washing his hands. Then the 
tempest howled, the lake heaved, dark clouds and heavy mists 
gathered round the mountain’s head, and a storm or a hurricane 
always followed. And so, as the spirit showed such evident 
dislike to being disturbed, severe penalties were inflicted by the 
magistrates of Lucerne upon any one who might dare to visit 
the haunted place. 

For an interesting account of the mountain and its traditions, 
see Sir W. Scott’s Anne of Geierstein.” 

The original name of the mountain was Fracmont, from 
mons fractus —broken mountain. Many other traditions appear 
to have sprung up as occasion required ; such as its being the 
abode of other evil spirits—the Tiirst and the Bergmannlein ; 
of dragons, of a colossal statue carved without hands in the black 
rock of a cavern, and so on. But these tales of horror and 
wonder have died out, and the tourist of weakest nerves need not 
fear an encounter with infernal spirits, as he wanders over the 
green pastures or the rugged wastes of the mountain, and beholds 
a glorious panorama, superior, say some, to that from the Rigi. 

The path to the summit of the mountain leads from Hergiswyl 
past Brunni, the Gschwdnd ALp, the Frahnund Chalets, and 
other resting-places, to the Hotel Klimsenhorn, whence the jour¬ 
ney must be made on foot. From the hotel the-path leads to the 
Krisiloch, which is a hole cut upwards through the rock, where 
a ladder is placed for the convenience of travellers. On emerg¬ 
ing from the funnel-shaped cutting, the whole of the Bernese 
Alps lie disclosed to view. From here to the Hotel Bellevue is 
the next stage, and hence to the Esel. The path then leads 
down to Alpnach. 

It may be mentioned that carriages may be taken to Her¬ 
giswyl, at the east base of Pilatus 3 and the remainder of the 
journey performed, except the last steep ascent, by mule. 

THE RIGI. 

I Rigi-Kulm—Hotel du Rigi-Kulm, Hotel Schreiber. 

i Rigi-Staffel—Hotel Rigi-Staffel. 

j Whether the ascent of Pilatus be made or not, the traveller 
1 should not omit to ascend the Rigi. It would be like going to 


THE RIGI. 


Rome and not seeing the Coliseum, or going to Naples and not 
seeing Pompeii. 

It is so easy to ascend, that the poorest mountain climber 
need not fear his abilities j or if he does, there are half-a-dozen 
ways by which he may avoid the toil. It can be walked from 
Weggis in three hours and a half. There is now a railway 
f rom Vitznau (both Weggis and Vitznau are a short and 
pleasant steamboat journey from Lucerne), or from Arth 
(p. 55) ; or, if this is not desired, there are horses, or chaises 
(sedan chairs). 

Th ^Rigi Railway miles in length) first demands 
consideration, as it is one oi’The most novel features in moun¬ 
tain climbing. It was completed in July, 1873. After pass¬ 
ing through a tunnel 230 feet long, it crosses a bridge 262 
feet in length. On one side" are fine views of the lake,"“on 
the other is a precijpice^ajhousand feet in height. The stations 
are Freiberger, KaXthaE^St^elhohe, JXormiiFSUhffel, and Rigi- 
Kulm. The trains run in correspondence with the steamers 
from Lucerne and as a limited number only can be taken, 
each passenger has a ‘‘ numbered and reserved seat.” The 
carriages are tii» storji^ high, carrying eighty persons each trip. 
The rate of travelling is slow, not exceeding three miles an hour, 
and it is w'ell it is so, as the gradient ‘‘ over about one-third of 
the line is one in four, i.e., for every four feet of length, the line 
rises one foot.” The tourist should notice the toothed wheel 
working between the rails by which the train ascends, the 
breaks by which each carriage can be held fast to the rack-rail, 
and the various other appliances for insuring safety. The 
engine ^Mias little resemblance to an ordinary locomotive, the 
boiler being upright ; and, with a view to give it a vertical 
position when on the steep gradient, it slopes considerably when 
standing at the station, which has a very odd appearance.” No 
one should miss inspecting the railway, and making a journey, 
either ascending or descending by it. At Staffel there is a 
junction with a still newer railw^ay, which starts from Arth, and 
I passes through the village of Goldau, and then near the 
^ conv ent of Maria zum Schnee, to join the line from Vitznau. 
j But it is a delightful walk if time permits, and the points of 
I interest to note on the way are worth seeing. Starting from 
; Weggis by a path which it is impossible to mistake, we pass a 
I spot where, in 1 793, a thick bed of mud descended like a stream 
of lava, and swept away everything before it but as it took 
fourteen days to slide down, the inhabitants^ere able to save 











LUCERNE. 


72 

themselves and much of their property. Then we reach a 
curious little chapel, the Heiligkreuz (Chapelof the Holy Cross), 
where the shepherds come to pray, and where travellers can 
obtain refreshments. Soon after we pass through the Hochstein, 
or Felsenthor, a natural archway of rocks fallen from the heights. 
Then on to 

Kaltbad, where there is a very beneficial mineral spring, 
and a spacious hotel, etc. A festival is held here on Aug. 10. 

From Kaltbad there is a railway to the Rigi Scheideck. 

From Kaltbad to Staffel there are two paths. The less 
direct leads by the Schwesterborn (Fountain of the Sisters), 
so named from three maidens, said to have been protected by 
angels from Austrian license, in the time of Tell.” Thence 
proceed to the plateau known as the Kanzli, and observe the 
charming view of Lucerne, etc., and then on to Staffel. 

At Staffel all the different routes meet; and then the summit 
is soon reached. All along the way the views are interesting and 
beautiful. The ascent to this point can also be made from 
Kiissnacht, past Toll’s chapel (commemorating the death of 
Gessler), and the Seeboden Alp and Chalet. 

On account of the great number of visitors to the Rigi 
Kulm, it is necessary for those wishing for accommodation 
for the night, to send a telegram to the proprietor, notifying 
their wish, or it may not infrequentlv happen that it will be 
impossible for them to remain at the Kulm. 

If it is determined not to stay the night at the Rigi, there 
is ample time to get down the mountain in the twilight. 

The Rigi Kulm isi 5^,90^ feet high. It is the highest and 
most northerly point of the range, and is grass-grown to the 
top. The name is said by some to be derived from Regina 
Montium, the Queen of Mountains 3 and by others from Mons 
Rigidus, the firm or compact mountain, in opposition to Mons 
Fractus (Pilatus), the broken mountain. The view from the 
summit is absolutely indescribable. We will just enumerate 
the chief features. 

Standing on the Belvedere at the hotel, we see on the left 
the Rossberg close at hand, sloping down towards the Lowerz 
See. Traces of the terrible fall in 1806 are plainly visible." 
Beyond this, in the background, is the Sentis, in the Canton of 
Appenzell. Almost due east rise the white summits of the 
Glarnischer Alps. Then, following the sky line, the Tbdi group 
are conspicuous. Just facing us are the Windgelle and the 
Bristenstock. The Blackenstock and Urizothstock are nearly 





tv ir 


(TV M V 

iS 


THE RIGI. 


73 


due south j and then the precipitous, rug ged Titlis comes into 
view. The mountains of the Bernese Oberland stand next in 
order, presentin g a magnificent appearance . wTth their mantles 
of eternal snow^ The conspicuous summits of this group are 
the Finsteraarhorn, the S hreckho rn, the W^erliorn, the Monch, 
the Ei ger, a nd the Jungfrau. The chain ends with the cmgs~of 
Pilatus on th e e xtreme rigfit. We have mentioned the" prorm^ 
nehTof)JecfsT)ounding the scene. In this area are included a 
vast number of nearer and lower summits—as the Englestock, 
'the Fluhbrig, the double-headed __.Mjlhen^ with the town of 
Sc hwyz a t its base. Then the mountains encircling the Muotta 
Thai, the Hohfluh, Scheideck, and Dossen, in the imme¬ 
diate foreground j the A xenberg, just beyond the Scheideck ; 
with the BuoQ ^serhorn, 'Sta nzerhor n, an d Burgenstock, more 
to the right. Ten lakes can also be counted fronTThe Lowerz 


See, under Rossberg, to the Bay of Alpnach, under Pilatus. 

On the other side of the Rigi Kulm, the vie^v comprises the 
whole of L ake Zug , the to wii of Luce rne, and most of the 
canton, with the rivers Emme and Reuss, the baj of Kiissnacht, 
part of Lake Egeri (on the banks of which Morgarten was 
fought)^ part of the town of Z urich , Lake Sempach, the Jura 
mountains, and the Blach Forest. 

The Rigi is more than a thousand feet higher than Ben 
Nevis, but the ascent has become almost a matter of course with 
Swiss tourists. Many others deem the whole affair so hackneyed 
as to be beneath their notice. In fine weather the roads up and 
down are alive with visitors, and the various hotels thronged. 
The evening view is very fine, and by some preferred to that in 
the morning. It is, however, the sunrise that constitutes the 
great attraction of the Rigi. Half an hour before that time a 
horn is blown to arouse the visitors from their slumbers, and all 
turn out, in every variety of greatcoats, rugs, and wrappers, to 
witness the scene. Note that there is a penalty for using the 
hotel blankets. Soon the stars begin to fade j a streak of dawn 
gradually brightens to a golden line on the horizon’s verge, the 
mountain peaks blush rosy red, the shadows melt away, and 
the varied charms of the landscape gradually reveal themselves, 
till the sun bursts forth in all his glory, and the full splendour 
of the vast panorama is displayed. 

In certain atmospheric conditions, a phenomenon called the 
spectre of the Rigi is witnessed, which is also observable on 
other lofty mountains. The figures of persons standing on the 
Rigi are occasionally reflected, and surrounded by a prismatic 




W6 / 


r' 


■A A 




















LUCERNE TO BRIEG. 


74 

halo, on a bank of mist rising from the valley below, without 
enveloping the mountain itself. 

Besides the two hotels at the Rigi Kulm (summit), there 
are other hotels and numerous pensions on the lower slopes of 
the mountains, where, amidst delightful scenery, and amongst 
pleasant society, travellers from all parts of the world sojourn 
for longer or shorter periods 3 some to recruit exhausted nature 
with the now fashionable Swiss air-cure. 

The neighbouring height of the Rigi Scheideck (5000 feet) is 
reached by railway from Kaltbad, or by a two hours’ walk from 
Gersau. 

LUCERNE TO BRIEG OR SIERRE (for 
GENEVA) BY THE FURCA PASS. 

Lucerne to Fluelen by steamer (p. 64) 

Fliielen to Hospenthal (St. Gothard route, p. 172). 

There is a daily communication by diligence between 
Andermatt or Hospenthal and Brieg, along the new Furca 
road. The entire journey occupies about 12 hours 3 a stoppage 
for dinner being made at the Rhone Glacier Hotel. 

Leaving the St. Gothard route at Hospenthal, we proceed 
by a level road along the Urseren Thai—a valley of rich pasture 
land, through which flows the Reuss—and arrive at Realp. 
This is a poor little village, celebrated for its pancakes, where 
Father Hugo, a Capuchin monk, entertains travellers. 

From Realp, an ascent of about 9 miles, through somewhat 
monotonous scenery, treeless and barren, brings us to the sum¬ 
mit of the Furca. 

The Furca, or Fork, so named from its two peaks, be¬ 
tween which the Pass lies, is 8150 feet above the sea, and the 
road descends on each side so abruptly, that no one can fail to 
be conscious of being on the summit of the Pass. It is a rare 
thing to find the Furca entirely free from snow. 

There is a very good inn here, at which Queen Victoria 
stayed three days in August, 1868. The views are very fine 3 
giant peaks are visible in abundance. The Furca-horn may be 
reached in an hour, and is worth visiting for the fine panorama. 
The higher Furcahorn (9,934 feet) will take 2^ hours, and a 
guide is advisable. The Galenstock (11,900 feet) is recom¬ 
mended to those accustomed to mountain expeditions. From 
the Furca (with a guide) a path may be taken across the Rhone 
Glacier to the Grimsel in about 4 hours. 


THE FURCA PASS. 


75 

The descent from the Furca is by a series of zigzags, very 
abrupt, and giving the unnecessarily nervous traveller the im¬ 
pression that he is going to the bottom with a bound. There 
are seven zigzags, which are marvels of engineering skill. This 
road, costing ,^20,000, only dates from 1867. The views 
obtained in the descent more than compensate for the poverty 
of those in the ascent. Nowhere can finer views be had of 
those grim giants of the Oberland, the Schreckhorn, and the 
Finsteraarhorn, or of the glorious Alpine chain from Monte 
Leone to the Weisshorn. Beside all this, the marvels of 
the 

Rhone Glacier are seen; one of the finest sights in 
Switzerland. Every minute during the descent some fresh im¬ 
pression of the magnitude of its frozen billows and its yawning 
crevasses is obtained. 

At the foot of the glacier the traveller will be struck with its 
wonderful appearance, which now assumes a fresh form. Above 
it stand the Gelmerhorn and the Galenstock, and from between 
them is the great sea of ice, “ resembling a gigantic frozen 
waterfall,” extending for 15 miles. This is the source of the 
river Rhone, which flo.ws onward to the sea at Marseilles, 500 
miles away. It has been said to issue “ from the Gates of 
Eternal Night, at the foot of the Pillar of the Sun and really 
any poetry is excusable in sight of a scene of such unparalleled 
grandeur. The Hotel du Glacier du'Rhone is a good place to 
dine. The Ice Cavern should be inspected before the journey 
is resumed. 

The diligence takes about 5 hours to perform the journey 
from the Rhone Glacier to Brieg (31 miles). Walking will 
not be found worth while. 

The road, after crossing the deep ravine along which the 
Rhone rushes, winds down to Oberwald, the highest village 
of the Upper Valais (4,316 feet), surrounded by far-reaching 
pastures. 

The next town is Obergestelen, burnt down in Septem¬ 
ber, 1868. It is an important depot for the exportation of 
cheese. In the graveyard will be seen the large grave of eighty- 
four victims of an avalanche in 1720. 

Vlrichen, Munster, Reckingen, Niederwald, are successively 
passed, and numerous other places sighted in this populous dis¬ 
trict. Upper Valais is German in speech and manners, and was 
never conquered by the legions of Rome. 

Soon after passing Niederwald, the route rapidly descends 


LUCERNE TO BRIEG. 


76 

to a lower level of the great Rhone valley, and arrives at 

Viesch. ... . . 

Viesch. is a flourishing little place, splendidly situated under 
the Viescher Horner, whose highest peak (Grosse Wannehorn) 
rises to the altitude of over 12,000 feet. From Viesch a glorious 
excursion can be made to the Eggischorn (9649 feet). The 
ascent will require four and a half hours, the return about an 
hour less. A horse can be ridden nearly to the summit. At 
the height of 7153 feet is the Hotel Jungfrau. The student of 
botany will be delighted with the flora of the vicinity. At the 
hotel a guide should be hired, and then, proceeding to the ter¬ 
mination of the bridle-path, an arduous climb over rocks and 
stones brings the traveller to the wooden cross marking the 
summit. 

The view is superb. The most prominent object is the 
great Aletsch. Glacier, nearly twenty miles in length, and 
varying in breadth from one to four miles. This glacier, the 
largest of the great ice-streams of Switzerland, has its source at 
the foot of the Jungfrau, Monch, etc. Its course is direct and 
uniform for about a dozen miles, till the Eggischhorn turns it 
aside, when it becomes steeper and narrower, and it is seen 
disappearing, a few miles to the south-west, into the gorge of 
the Massa. The Viescher Glacier, which, compared with the 
broad, smooth expanse of the Aletsch, more nearly resembles a 
torrent of ice, is also in front. Just below him, the visitor sees 
the Marjelen See, a mountain lake, hemmed in on one side by 
the ice-cliffs of the Aletsch. From these ice-cliffs huge por¬ 
tions break off. The encircling panorama comprises a greac 
number of mountain peaks. The Olmenhorn and Dreieck- 
horn are seen to the north-west, encircled by the two prin¬ 
cipal arms of the Aletsch Glacier^ whilst beyond these rise the 
Aletschhorn (left), and the Jungfrau (right). More to the 
right are the Monch, Eiger, and companion peaks. Due north 
rise the Viescherhorner, and then the Finsteraarhorn, Rothhorn, 
Oberaarhorn, Wasenhorn, and Galenstock, Mutthorn, etc., 
bring us to the east. Due east is’ the Blinnenhorn, and due 
south Monte Leone. Between these two latter, amongst others, 
we see the Ofenhorn, Mittelberg, Kelsenhorn, etc. Continuing 
the circle from Monte Leone, the Weissmies, Fletschhorn, 
Monte Rosa, Mischabelhorner, Matterhorn, Weisshorn, Mont 
Blanc, Sparenhorn, Sattelhorn, complete the panorama. 

Numerous mountain and glacier expeditions may be made 
from the Eggischorn. A grand but easy mountain and glacier 


BRIEG. 


77 

walk leads to the splendidly situated Belle Alp hotel, built on 
a cliff, around which curves the great Aletsch Glacier. The 
views are magnificent. 

Resuming the route from Viesch, we pass on to Lax, still 
tracking the downward course of the Rhone along its romantic 
and rugged ravine. By devious windings we reach, at the 
Bridge of Grengiols, a lower level of the Rhone Valley. Morel 
is next passed. Hard by notice the Hochfluhkirche, on a pro¬ 
minent rock 3 also the junction of the Massa, bringing the 
watery tribute of the Aletsch Glacier to swell the Rhone. No 
other Alpine glacier stream equals the Massa in magnitude. 

Passing orchard-encircled Naters, with its two ruined 
Castles of Weingarten and Auf der Fliih, we next arrive at 
Brieg. 

BRIEG, OR BRIGUE, 

(Hotel de la Poste.) 

is a small town at the junction of the Rhone and Saltine. 
Notice the Stockalper Chateau, with its tin-capped turrets. 
The Hotel Belle Alp (see above) can be reached by bridle-path 
in about five hours 3 the summit of the Sparrenhorn in less than 
three more. At Blatten, on the way to Belle Alp, a footpath 
leads to the source of the Massa, amongst the ice-grottoes of 
the Aletsch Glacier. 

Brieg to Domo d’Ossola, by the Simplon Pass (see p. 171). 

The next village is Visp, or Vispach, at the mouth of the 
Visper Thai, once containing so many noble families, that the 
lower of the two churches was appropriated solely to their use. 
The nobles have disappeared, and the town is peopled by 
poverty-stricken inhabitants, in continual danger of destruction 
from floods, which are only kept off by constantly renewed 
dykes. All the houses but seven were made uninhabitable by 
. an earthquake in 1855. In 1868 a flood occasioned great de¬ 
struction. 

Visp to Zermatt (see p. 160). 

From Visp the road conducts us to Tourtemagne, from 
whence a beautiful excursion can be made to the Tourtemagne 
Valley, with its waterfall, glacier, etc. The next village is 
Susten, on the left bank of the Rhone. Leak is on the 
opposite side of the river, at the confluence of the Rhone and 
Dala. 


78 


LUCERNE TO BRIENZ. 


To the Baths of Leuk and Gemmi Pass (see p. 97). 

Between Susten and Sierre, Pfyn is passed, marking the 
boundary between the French and German-speaking districts. 
The route lies amongst pine-clad hills, once the resort of brigands, 
and then crosses the Rhone into Sierre. 

Sierre, p. 170. 

FROM LUCERNE TO BRIENZ AND MEIRINGEN 

(Over the Brunig Pass). 

Take the steamer to Alpnach (p. 64), from which place the 
diligence, or one of the (preferable) supplementary carriages, 
will convey the tourist to Brienz. Places must be booked at 
Lucerne, or on board the steamer. If the tourist cares to ride 
only to Lungern, and then walk the remaining distance, it is 
well worth the extra exertion. 

The road from Alpnach leads along the bank of the river 
Aa, through park-like scenery, with a background of glorious 
mountains, to the Lake of Sarnen. 

SARNEN 

(Briinig Hotel and Hotel de I’Oberwald) 

is the chief town of Obwalden, in the Canton of Unterwalden, 
and is the seat of government. 4000 inhabitants. There is a 
monastery, a nunnery, and a conspicuous church on a hill. 
The green hill called the Landenberg, with the Arsenal 
upon it, was once crowned by the castle of the cruel 
bailiff, Beringar, who put out the eyes of the aged father of 
Arnold von Melchthal, for resisting his tyranny. The castle 
was destroyed by the Swiss a few weeks after the Vow at 
Griitli. Since 1646, the terrace where the castle once stood has 
been the place of assembly, whereon the citizens of the canton 
have met for consultation, the choice of magistrates, etc. In 
the Rathhaus are portraits of the Obwalden magistrates for 
nearly live centuries, and also a painting representing the cele¬ 
brated St. Nikolaus von der Fliie. The visitor to Sarnen will 
scarcely fail to notice the peculiar head-dress of the Unter¬ 
walden peasant women—the plaited hair, interlaced with white 
ribbon, and fastened up with a spoon-shaped Imckle of silvS 
East of Sarnen lies the romantic mountain-girdled valley of the 
Melchthal, fifteen miles long. Here dw^elt Arnold von Melch¬ 
thal and his aged father (see above) j and here also lived the 
venerated St. Nikolaus von der Fliie, who, with timely words of 
peace, prevented the break-up of the Swiss Confederacy in 1481. 


THE BRUNIG PASS. 


79 

At the La ke of Sarnen pedestrians will save a good step 
by taking a boat For a couj^ of francs to the other end, four 
and a half miles. 

On the east of the lake stands Sachseln. In the church 
are the bones of St. Nikolaus (locally known'as Bruder Klaus), 
with a jewelled cross under the ribs where the heart throbbed 
in life. Numerous relics and votive tablets are to be seen. 

The next village is Giswyl, which in 1629 was partially 
destroyed by an inundation of the Lanibach. The ascent of 
the Kaj ^rstuh l now begins, and at Biirglen, at an altitude of 2283 
feet, the Lake of L uilge rn is reached. This was once one of 
the loveliest'Spo r^fT 5 udt^~^andJ"BurT^ draining of 'half'TfT" 
waters into the Sarner See by a subterranean canal, in 1836, has 
much detracted from its beauty. Still, the surrounding scenery 
is very fine, and we must solace our regrets for the lake’s de¬ 
parted charms by remembering that fiv e hundr ed acres of 
good land have been redeemed and brought under cultivation. 
Passing along the steep cliffs east of the lake, we see the 
thr^ peaks of the Wetterhorn to the so uth. The lake is two 
milesTtri^hgth j and near its south end, as it were in a basin of 
the mountains, stands the wood-l^iilt.village-of Lungern, atjthe. 
foot of the Briinig. ,• ► 

Ffbffi Lungern (Hotel du Lion d'Or/and Hotel Ober- 
wald), a well constructed and costly zigz^ro^djyinds through 
the woods 'trp- 4 e'-the-suriinut of the Briinig Pass. The oc¬ 
casional views looking'back through the trees are vtry fine. 
At the culminating point (3648 feet) the northern view shows 
the Valley of Sarnen and Lake of Lungern, and Pilatus in the 
background; a few steps in the opposite direction reveal the 
Eiger and Wetterhorn, and other snowy summits of the Bernese 
Alps, with the gorge of Grimsel on the left, and the Brienzer 
See on the right. 

The descent of the Briinig is romantically interesting, afford¬ 
ing fine anT V^eT vTew s of the surrounding Alpine scenery. 
Soon after passTngThespT 5 tididly situated hotel, the road divides, 
that on the right leading past the BrienzWyler Bridge to 
the beautifully situat ed village of Brienz (p. 90'), where 
admirers oT wood-carvThg riiay see that pursuit most industri¬ 
ously and artistically carried on. The left hand road leads to 
Meiringen, under the wooded ridge surmounted by craggy, 
peaks that bounds this portion of the Aare valley. ^ / 

Meiringen (p. 80). 










8 o 


MEIRINGEN. 


MEIRINGEN TO INTERLAKEN. 

(By the Scheideck, Grindelwald, Wengern Alps, and Lauter- 

bmnnen.) 

The charming district now under notice is one of those 
portions of Switzerland in which the tourist who can rely on 
his own powers of locomotion may see the most and realize the 
greatest enjoyment. He may, however, if so inclined, hire a 
horse with advantage in some parts of'the excursion. 

Of course, the time occupied in this detour must entirely 
depend on the traveller’s convenience. He may spend a week 
or more, and find many points of interest to visit beyond those 
alluded to in the following brief epitome. But at least two days 
should be devoted to the trip. 

From Meiringen to Rosenlaui is a 3 hours’ walk ; from 
Rosenlaui to Scheideck, 2-^ hours 5 from the Scheideck down 
to Grindelwald, 2 hours. Allowing 2 hours for stoppages at 
various points of interest, this will make a good day’s work for 
most. On the following day, from Grindelwald to the Little 
Scheideck will take 3-0 hours ; thence to the Wengern Alp, 
half an hour; and to Lauterbrunnen, 2 hours more. Here a 
horse or a carriage can be hired to Interlaken : or, if the pedes¬ 
trian be still fresh, he may walk on the remaining 7I miles. In 
taking this beaten track no aid from guides is requisite. 

The pea^ntry of this lovely district have become keenly 
alive to the desirability of preying on the traveller. No native 
of the Isle of Thanet itself could be more ready in inventing 
schemes for drawing coins from the traveller’s pocket. At 
every echoing clilf, waterfall, or glacier, somebody is at hand to 
distract his attention with obtrusive services. Singing-girls, 
horn-blowers, and itinerant vendors of all sorts of trifles dog 
his footsteps everywhere. Let patience be cultivated, and a 
supply of centimes kept in the pocket, for'chary distribution in 
unavoidable circumstances, remembering that the Government 
advice is to pay nothing, except for pre-engaged services. At any 
rate, care should be taken to avoid the lavish bestowal of largesse 
affected by some rich tourists, which has chiefly contributed to 
develop the system complained of, and sap the sturdy inde¬ 
pendence and native nobility of the Swiss peasant. 

Meiringen (Hotel Sauvage) is a charming Alpine village 
of 2800 inhabitants, with fine views of snow-clad mountains 
belted with luxuriant woods, where they bound the long valley 


ROSENLAUI GLACIER. 


8 l 

that runs eastward from the Lake of Brienz. Along the valley 
flows the river Aare 5 and^at the village of Meiringen various 
important Alpine routes converge—viz., to Brienz (p. 79) } 
to Grindelwald over the Scheideckj to Lucerne, by the Briinig 
(P- 78) j fo the Grimsel, past the Fall of the Handeck (p. 88)5 
to Engelberg by the Joch Pass 5 and to Wasen by the Susten Pass 

(P- 97 )- 

If the interest of the visitor is chiefly centred in art, archi¬ 
tecture, or exhibitions, he will find little to please him in 
Meiringen. He may, if he has an hour or two to spare, look 
into the shops and buy some wood carvings, or sit on the bal¬ 
cony of the hotel and listen to the tinkle of distant cattle- 
bells, or the strange, weird cry of the peasants calling the cattle 
home, or stroll to one of the three brooks that leap down into 
the valley at the back of the village. The Falls of the Alpbach 
are best seen in the morning. 

The inhabitants of Hasli-Thal—of which Meiringen is the 
capital—are an active, wiry race, descended from old Swedish 
conquerors of the soil. Their prowess at the wrestling-matches 
with the men of surrounding districts at the beginning of 
August is well established. The women are considered better¬ 
looking than is the case with their compatriots generally ; and 
their personal appearance is w^ell set olF by the graceful local 
costume worn on holiday occasions. There is an English church 
in the village. 

The Falls of the Reichenbach are only a short walk 
from Meiringen. The stream comes rushing and tumbling 
down 2000 feet to the valley below, leap after leap, the three 
lowest forming the celebrated Falls. Hoardings or huts have 
been erected, at which fees are demanded at the best points of 
view. The Lower Fall, behind the Reichenbach Hotel, is 
illuminated every evening in the season for the benefit of per¬ 
sons staying at that establishment. 

From the Falls to Rosenlaui the path gradually rises along 
the side of the Reichenbach Valley, beloved of artists. During 
the journey the eye is charmed with ever-varying combinations 
of rock and grassy slope, woodland and waterfall, with the 
snowy peaks of the Wellhorn and Wetterhorn piercing the blue 
sky in front. The latter mountain, as seen from this valley, has 
been compared to a colossal snow model of the Great Pyramid 
of Egypt. 

At the foot of the Wellhorn, and between it and the Engel- 
hdrner, is the Rosenlaui Glacier. The path to the foot of 


82 


MEIRINGEN TO INTERLAKEN. 


the glacier crosses a little bridge over the Weisbach. This is 
the stream flowing from the glacier to join with others in form¬ 
ing the Reichenbach. It rushes along a deep chasm in the 
slaty rocks, 200 feet below the bridge. The glacier is small 
and gradually decreasing, but it is exquisitely beautiful in colour, 
hemmed in by rocks not friable enough to furnish the usual 
dirty moraines, and is very easy of access. Any who shrink 
from more formidable glacier expeditions should at least see the 
Rosenlaui. The best point of view is from a rock that projects 
out into the glacier, about 30 minutes’ walk from its foot. 

The Baths of Rosenlaui, in great repute with invalids 
for the mineral waters, are charmingly situated amongst wood 
and mountain scenery. An upward walk of 2| hours, partly 
through a dense pine wood, conducts to the highest point (6480 
feet), where the narrow ridge of rock, about 3 miles in length, 
known as the Great Sheideck, is crossed. The view from 
this point comprises the lofty and barren crags of the Wetter- 
horn, the smiling valley of Grindelwald, bounded by the well- 
wooded Little Scheideck; the Schwarzwald Glacier, and several 
of the Bernese Oberland peaks. Here is an inn at which a 
horse can be hired to make the ascent of the Faulhorn in 4 or 5 
hours (p. 83). If not inclined to do the Faulhorn, the visitor 
should walk as far on the road to it as the Grindelalp (wLere 
fine views of mountains and glaciers will reward the extra 
exertion), and then descend to Grindelwald by a path as short 
as the direct course from the Great Scheideck. 

Grindelwald (Hotel de I’Aigle Noir) is a romantic 
village, inhabited chiefly by those whose vocation it is to tend 
the thousands of cattle in the adjacent pastures. It is situated 
in a valley some 12 miles by 4, at a height of 4000 feet above 
the sea level, and guarded by giant mountains, the Eiger 
(13,045 ft.), the Mettenberg (10,443 ft.), forming the base of 
the Schreckhorn, and the Wetterhorn (12,165 ft-)- ft is chiefly 
celebrated for its two glaciers, whose “ stiffened billows ” are 
far grander and wilder than the Rosenlaui. 

These two glaciers descend one on each side the Metten- 
berg, and supply by their melting the muddy waters of the 
Black Liitschine. They are the lowest projecting portions of 
the vast icefield of the Bernese Alps. The Lower Glacier 
affords a capital opportunity of v/itnessing glacier scenery at a 
comparatively small expenditure of time and labour. It ap¬ 
proaches the valley by a gorge between the Schlossberg (base of 
Eigei) and the Mettenberg. The ravine, it is said, was once 


GRINDELWALD. 


83 

extremely narrow, and was the only outlet for an immense 
mountain lake. This narrow opening was often blocked up, 
and devastating floods were the frequent result. To remedy 
this state of things, St. Martin came to the rescue. He pressed 
his back against the Mettenberg, and pushed the Eiger with his 
staff, and lo! at one effort the ravine reached its present width. 
The impression made by the giant’s back (Martinsdruck), 
and the hole in the Eiger made by his staff (Martinsloch), 
are pointed out to this day. Through the Martinsloch the sun 
shines only on February 13th, casting a bright spot of light on 
the shadow of the mountain below. 

In a walk of about three-quarters of an hour from Grindel- 
wald the foot of the glacier can be reached, but little can be 
seen at this point beyond the moraines or accumulated heaps of 
rock and other detritus brought down by the glacial action. It 
is desirable to walk two hours further to the Biiregg chalet 
(5412 ft.), where are facilities for getting on to the glacier, and 
examining the beautiful forest of spires, called ‘Hce needles,” 
formed by the melting of the ice. If inclined for further ex¬ 
ploration, the visitor may (with a guide) cross the Eismeer 
(sea of ice), from which the glacier descends, to Ziisenberg 
(6076 ft.), where the highest habitation of the Bernese Alps 
is found. It is a simple stone chalet amidst pastures for 
goats. The views from the Eismeer are indescribable. Ice 
and snow of vast extent and in stupendous masses, and a grand 
amphitheatre of mountain peaks, compose the scene. From 
the ch^et to Grindelwald the descent may be accomplished in 
3 hours. 

The Upper Glacier, which is much smaller than the 
other, can be sufficiently seen in coming from the Scheideck to 
Grindelwald. The ice, especially as seen from the artificial 
cave cut in it, is much purer than that of the Lower Glacier, 
and the crevasses are more beautiful. 

The adventurous traveller with plenty of time at his disposal 
will find Grindelwald a suitable head-quarters from which to 
indulge in mountain climbing. Many of the mountains named 
in the last few pages can be ascended, with proper precautions 
and good guides. And there are also some less lofty heights, 
which will amply repay the tourist for the slight detention 
necessary for their ascent 3 such, for instance, as the Faulhorn, 
which is easily accessible to those who have neither nerve nor 
opportunity for grander exploits. 

The Faulhorn (8803 feet) can be ascended from Grindel- 


MEIRINGEN TO INTERLAKEN. 


84 

’ wald in five hours, the return occupying considerably less time. 
Horses can be made use of for the entire route, or chairs and 
porters can be engaged at Grindelwald for those preferring that 
mode of conveyance. There is an inn on the summit, but 
previous notice should be sent if accommodation for the night 
is desired. The path leads up, by woods and meadows 
and chalets, to the hotel on the Ross Alp; then passing the 
waterfall of Miihlibach, and the chalets of the Bachalp, where 
cheeses weighing over 150 lbs. are manufactured, we reach the 
rock-encircled lake known as the Bachalpsee, around which 
frown the Rothihorn (9060 feet), Simelihorn (9040 feet), and 
the Ritzligriitli (8281 feet). Presently the path to or from the 
Great Scheideck is joined, and then the way winds on amongst 
i\\Q debris continually descending from the crumbling Rothihorn, 
till the cone of the Faulhorn is reached. 

The view from the top is very fine. On one side we see 
the whole or parts of the Lakes of Brienz, Thun, Lucerne, 
Zug, Morat, and Neuchatel, with their adjacent mountains. 
Turning southward, we see in the foreground the Wildgerst and 
Schwarzhorn, with the glacier between, the Rothihorn, the 
Simelihorn, and the Bussalp j whilst on or near the sky-line we 
behold the lofty peaks of the Bernese Alps, the most prominent 
(from east to west) being the Sustenhorn, Wellhorn, Wetter- 
horn (II,^I2 feet), Berglistock, Schreckhorn (12,570 feet), 
Finsteraarhorn (13,230 feet), Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, Breit- 
horn, Blumlisalp, etc. 

On returning from the summit, the traveller may from the 
Bachalp ascend the isolated Rothihorn (9052 feet), and get 
a better view than from the Faulhorn as far as the Grindelwald 
mountains are concerned. 

From Grindelwald to Interlaken the easiest route is 
by the carriage road, along the valley of the Black Liitschine to 
Zweilutschinen, and so to Interlacken (12 miles). But good 
pedestrians will much prefer the route about to be described. 
It may be accomplished on horseback, if the rider be willing to 
dismount at one or two steep, rugged places. 

Leaving Grindelwald, the traveller gradually ascends, cross¬ 
ing the rounded spurs at the base of the Eiger, and passing 
numerous cottages and chalets. Some fine views of the Grin¬ 
delwald Valley are obtained by occasionally casting a backward 
glance in that direction. At a height of over 5000 feet above 
the sea-level, a whey-cure establishment is passed. At length 
vegetation becomes coarse and scanty, and frequent proofs of 


WENGERN ALP. 

the prevalence of avalanches and landslips are witnessed. In 
about three and a half hours the pass of the 

Little Scheideck (6768 feet) is reached. Here there is 
an inn, the Hotel Belle Vue. The view is superb at any time j 
and towards sunset, when the Monch, the Jungfrau, the Eiger, 
and the Schreckhorn are tinted with a thousand hues, nothing 
can exceed the glories of the scene. The Oberland peaks are 
well seen to the south 5 northward lies the Grindelwald Valley, 
with its mountain boundaries. 

From the Little Scheideck the traveller may, if so inclined, 
return to Grindelwald by the Lauberhorn (8120 feet), and 
Mannlichen (7694 feet), both peaks of the ridge running north¬ 
ward from the Scheideck j or he may proceed to the Hotel 
Jungfrau, on the Wengern Alp, by the Lauberhorn, in about 
two hours. But the direct path descends in about thirty 
minutes to the sloping pasture known as the Wengern Alp. 
Far below lies the valley of Lauterbrunnen, with the Staubbach 
like a thread of silver winding from the upper to the lower fall. 
The Hotel de la Jungfrau is, towards noon, a resting-place for 
visitors from various directions, when quite an international 
gathering takes place during the season. Opposite the hotel are 
the Silberhorn (12,156 feet) on the right, and the Schneehorn 
(11,204 feet) on the left; and between them, upspringing from 
a world of glaciers, rises the colossal Jungfrau (13,671 feet), 
in robes of dazzling whiteness, but not revealing her loftiest 
peak from this point of view. The ascent of this mountain is 
not considered immensely difficult, but is very fatiguing, and 
requires good guides. Ladies have on several occasions visited 
the summit. 

From the Wengern Alp the traveller will not only hear the 
avalanches, but also see them, as they break away from the 
glaciers on the brow of Jungfrau, dash into fragments, and 
plunge into the ravine called the Triimlethenthal. The sight at 
this distance is insignificant, but the sound is marvellous as echo 
after echo takes up the thunders with manifold reverberation. 
If the traveller wishes for a nearer view of these wonderful 
phenomena, he must go with a guide and a rope (only needed 
at one or two points of the journey) down into the Triimlethen- 
thal, cross the branch of the Liitschine at the bottom, and 
ascend to the side of a deep channel. Here, in complete 
security, he may watch the avalanches that have already des¬ 
cended 2000 feet from the glaciers, dash down for another 
thousand feet along this channel, to reach the accumulation of 


86 


MEIRINGEN TO INTERLAKEN. 


snow and ice below. The expedition will occupy about three 
hours going and returning, exclusive of the time spent in watch¬ 
ing the avalanches. Particulars as to how best to accomplish 
the journey should be ascertained at the hotel. 

A descending walk of about three hours’ length brings the 
traveller from the Wengern Alp to Lauterbrunnen. The 
course lies at first over grassy slopes, thickly populated by small 
cattle with their tinkling bells. The immediate descent into 
Lauterbrunnen valley is by a steep zigzag path down the cliffs. 
The views en route are very beautiful and varied. 


LAUTERBRUNNEN 

(Hotel du Capricorne) 

is a village of chalets, where 1400 inhabitants are so secluded 
amidst rocks and mountains, that although dwelling nearly 2500 
feet above the sea level, the sun cannot visit them till seven a.m. 
in summer, nor till noon in winter. Lauterbrunnen signifies 
nothing but springs some twenty or thirty streamlets come 
down from the surrounding cliffs and mountains. 

Of these the finest is the world-renowned Staubbacll. It 
is quite possible that the visitor may consider this fall has been 
over-praised. Its beauty depends, however, very much on the 
amount of water falling. It is often very small 5 and as it leaps 
down over 900 feet—thus taking rank as the highest European 
waterfall—the water is dissipated into spray before reaching the 
bottom. Hence the name Staubbach—^^Dust-stream.’’ It has 
been compared to an undulating lace veil, to a bird of Paradise, 
to the descent of a shower of rockets, etc., etc. Byron com¬ 
pares it to the tail of 

“ The giant steed to be bestrode by Death, 

As told in the Apocalypse 5” 

Wordsworth calls it a sky-born waterfall 5” Goethe and several 
other poets have also sung its praises. 

There are no lack of walks and excursions for the tourist 
who can afford time to linger at Lauterbrunnen. It is a pleasant 
evening walk to the Falls of the Trumlenbach, where 
the glacier-fed torrent from the foot of the Jungfrau leaps down. 
To view the grand, wild scenery round Miirren, half a day 
must be allowed. The road lies through the forest above the 
Staubbach Falls, and the mountain panorama seen on emerging 


MEIRINGEN TO THE RHONE GLACIER. 


87 

from the forest is beyond description. Miirren itself is glori¬ 
ously situated, and the view of glaciers, and rocks, and ravines, 
untrodden save by the daring chamois hunter, is magnificent. 
From Miirren the Schilthorn (9000 feet) is ascended. The 
view of mountain-tops from its summit is unrivalled, including 
the Juras, the Niesen, the peaks of the Bernese Oberland, the 
Titlis, the Rigi, and many others. 

The exploration of the Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen 
is well worth the trouble. To Stechelherg and Trachsell- 
auinen requires no guide, and can be managed with horses. 
Beyond that to the Falls of the Schmadribach the path is 
obscure. The falls are 200 feet in height, and the arch of vapour 
formed by them is very remarkable. 

From Lauterbrunnen to Interlaken is seven and a 
half miles. The road leads along the valley, whose rocky walls 
rise to the height of 1000 feet, and past the lowering rock 
called the Kunnenfliih to Ziveilulschinen. This town is situated 
near the junction of the Black Liitschine from Grindelwald 
with the White Liitschine from Lauterbrunnen. A little 
further on, the road enters a narrov/ ravine, with the precipices 
of the Rothenfluh rising on the left. The Bosenstein, with its 
inscription marking the spot where a fratricide was committed 
by a local baron, was removed in blasting the rocks to improve 
the road 3 but the gloomy spot is still pointed out. Passing on 
by goitre-haunted Miihlinen^ IVilderswyl, and Matten, we soon 
arrive at Interlaken. Between Wilderswyl and Matten we pass 
the ruins of the Castle of Unspunnen, said to have been 
in Byron’s thoughts as the stronghold of Manfred—the won¬ 
drous tale, of which the scenery is mostly laid in the Wengern 
Alp and neighbourhood. 

Interlaken, p. 92. 

MEIRINGEN TO THE RHONE GLACIER, BY 

THE GRIMSEL. 

(For the St. Gothard Route, or for the Rhone Valley.) 

This cross route takes about eleven hours. From Meiringen 
to the Handeck Falls, and to return by the same route, takes 
about as long. A carriage road has been formed a little beyond 
Imhof, after which there is a bridle path only. 

Leaving Meiringen, the Aare is soon crossed (a process which 
is repeated many times during the route), and the summit of 
the ridge of limestone, strewn with granite blocks, known as 


gg MEIRINGEN TO THE RHONE GLACIER. 

the Kirchet, or Kirchen, is reached. This ridge, 2782 feet in 
height, forms the division between the Upper and Lower Hasli- 
thal. From the summit there is a lovely view down into the 
verdant valley of Imgrund. 

By paying a small fee at the Inn, a short detour can be made 
through a woodland path to the Finsteraar Schlucht. 
This is a romantic ravine, cut clean through the Kirchet ridge 
by the Aare, which foams along three hundred feet below. 

As the road winds down the side of the Kirchet, the pedes¬ 
trian will easily see how to make several short cuts. The lirst 
village of any importance in the valley is Imhof, near to which 
diverge the routes leading to the SListen and Joch passes re¬ 
spectively. From Imhof a fine excursion may be made to the 
magnificent Urbachthal, with the immense Gauli Glacier at 
the head of it. The experienced mountaineer may visit many 
glaciers, etc., from this locality. 

Passing on from Imhof, the road leads through a romantic 
defile, over which towers the Mahrenhorn (9593 feet). Re¬ 
freshments can be obtained at various chalets. After crossing 
the Aare a time or two, and also various mountain torrents, 
Guttanen is reached. This wretched-looking place, the 
highest village of the Haslithal, has been four times destroyed 
in the present century—twice by fire, and twice by flood. 

From Guttanen the visitor passes through fine rock and 
forest scenery, crossing the Aare at the Tschingelbriicke. Here 
and there the ravages of avalanche and wintry torrent are evident. 
On the right, the foot of the Weiss Glacier is seen, and mountain- 
tops patched with snow come into view. After crossing the 
Aare by the Schwarzbrunnenbriicke, and passing a small cascade, 
the end of the valley is reached, formed by a rocky height, sur¬ 
mounted by a grove of pines. Up this ridge the path leads 
amongst rocks where former glacial action is plainly visible. 

At Handeck are the celebrated Falls, where the Aare 
leaps down 250 feet at a bound. The falls should be viewed 
from below, and again from the bridge above. Half way down, 
the river Erlenbach, entering at right angles, joins its falling 
waters with those of the Aare, and the mingling cascades de¬ 
scend into a basin, over which rainbows are seen in the spray 
between ten and one. This is the third largest, and by many 
considered the finest, waterfall in Switzerland. 

Up to this point rich forest scenery has softened the boldness 
of the landscape, but now a wild and barren region of desolation 
is gradually entered. The pine disappears 3 bushes, moss, and 


THE GRIMSEL. 


89 

grass form the vegetation, and that not in abundance. Hahle 
Platte is crossed, being the polished granite bed of an ancient 
glacier. Agassiz studied glacial action here as elsewhere, and 
has left his name carved on the rock. Opposite, the picturesque 
waterfall of the Gelinerbach descends from the Gelmer See. 

Again the valley narrows, and the savage wildness of the 
scene increases in intensity. The Aare is crossed again and 
again ; and the Raterisboden, where is the only chMet be¬ 
tween Handeck and Grimsel, is soon reached. This hollow 
basin was given by the French to the innkeeper of Guttanen, who 
aided them in their attack on the Austrians at the Grimsel in 
1799. But the Swiss Government speedily revoked the grant. 
Between the rocky walls of a mountain glen the traveller still 
mounts, and, after a time, arrives at the Grimsel Hospice. 

The Grimsel Hospice, formerly a monastic refuge, and 
now an inn, was destroyed by an avalanche in 1838, and burnt 
down in 1852. At the present building, of massive stone, 6148 
feet above the sea-level, fifty beds are made up in the season, 
and a couple of hundred persons are often entertained at the 
seven p.m. table d’hote. The hospice stands in the basin called 
the Grimselgrund. Around are rocks and snow, and a black 
lake destitute of fish. Beyond the lake is the scanty pasturage 
of the cows of the establishment. 

From this point an easy ascent of the Sidelhorn may be 
made 5 the panorama of the Grimsel is very fine. From 
the rocky height near the hospice, called the Nollen, the Fin- 
Steraarhorn is visible. This mountain presents a capital 
expedition for experienced mountaineers with able guides 3 and, 
indeed, for travellers of this class, many fine ascents may be 
arranged from the Grimsel. The Finsteraar and Lau- 
teraar Glaciers can be visited with comparative ease. The 
former is twenty-one miles in length, the latter eighteen. On 
these glaciers Agassiz and others have performed a series of 
experiments on glacial action. It has been proved that this 
glacier moves at the rate of eight inches a day, or eighty-five 
yards a year. 

A steep pathj, which takes about an hour to traverse, leads 
from the Hospice to the summit of the pass (7103 feet) called 
Hauseck. Here, in 1799, French and Austrians closed in 
deadly struggle, and the dead were interred in the adjacent lake, 
henceforward known as the Todtensee. The bare, granite sur¬ 
roundings of this lake are sombre enough, but the distant view 
of the Weisshorn and Mischabel is more lovely. 


90 


BRIENZ TO BERNE. 


From Hauseck the descent can be made by one path to 
( 3 bergestelen (p. 75), for the Rhone Valley. 

The other path leads by the flowery Maienwand, with 
splendid views of the Rhone Glacier, Furca, Galenstock, etc., 
down to the Rhone Glacier Hotel, where there is a table d’hote 
at one, after which a diligence runs to Brieg, in the Rhone 
Valley (see p. 77). 

Rhone Glacier to Hospenthal and St. Gothard route (see 
P- 74 )- 

BRIENZ TO BERNE. 

(At Brienz, Hotel de la Croix Blanche. At Giessbach, Hotel 

Giessbach.) 

There is not much in Brienz to detain the visitor. It is a 
picturesque village of wooden houses, nestling at the foot of the 
Brienzer Grat j the inhabitants are chiefly occupied in wood¬ 
carving, and carry on a considerable trade j and in the Repository 
a good collection of articles may be seen, and, if so minded, 
purchases can be made. From the Cliurcliyard excellent 
views may be obtained of the lake and surrounding mountains. 

The Lake of Brienz is celebrated for the magnificence 
of its mountain scenery. Except towards the south-west, it is 
entirely surrounded by high mountains j the Faulhorn, on the 
south side of the lake, forms a splendid object in the panorama. 
The lake is 8 miles long, and 2 broad in its widest part. Near 
the mouth of the Giessbach the depth is 500 feet, but it varies 
in other parts considerably. It is 10 feet higher than the Lake 
of Thun, and 8^0 feet above the level of the sea j it abounds in 
fish, and the “ Brienz-ling,” which is salted for the supply of 
the neighbouring districts, is found in abundance, and is a good 
fish. 

Steamers ply upon the lake between Brienz and Inter¬ 
laken ; and in the season there are special night boats for the 
illumination of the Falls of the Giessbach (see p. 91). 

The journey from Brienz to Interlaken occupies about an 
hour; from Brienz to Giessbach, about 10 minutes. 

Rowing-boats on the lake may be obtained at Brienz or 
Interlaken. A bargain should always be made with the 
rowers. 

Leaving Brienz by steamer, the lake is crossed, and Giess¬ 
bach is reached. It must be borne in mind, that from the lake 
the Falls cannot be seen, or the beauty of the scenery surround- 


GIESSBACH FALLS. 


91 

ing them. Continuing towards Interlaken, there are seen on 
the right hand (north bank) the villages of Oberried and Neider- 
ried, backed by the Augstmatthorn. Further on, the ruined 
Castle of Ringgenberg j and further still, the town of Goldswyl. 
On the left hand (south bank), the charming little village of 
Iseltwald. Approaching Interlaken the lake narrows 5 the 
village of Bonigen is reached; the Aare, as the water is called 
which connects th e Lake of Brien z wTfh that of Thun is entered; 
and the steamer sets down its passengers at Bonig^^iev, where 
a railway takes them \n a few minntc.t; to Interlaken (^‘*92). 


THE FALLS OF TH E GIESSBACH, 

(Hotel Giessbach. Telegraph for rooms.) 

The Falls are b rilliantly illuminated with Bengal lights 
every evening, from the middle ot June till the enT'oi^eptem- 
ber—before that time, on Mondays and Saturdays only. Fee, 
franc. 

In the following account by an American of a visit to the 
Falls the traveller will find all the information he will need:— 

“ As the twilight began to gather we landed at Giessbach, 
and wended our way up a steep declivity to the very fine hotel. 
After engaging rooms for the night, and partaking of a good 
supper, we were prepared to see Giessbach Falls illuminated. 
The hotel is situated on a high bluff of land, which juts out into 
the lake, and from this eminence you have a fine view of the 
lakes and mountains, looking towards Interlaken—which place 
is seen quite distinctly—with a portion of Lake Thun. 

The great attractions, however, at Giessbach, are the cas¬ 
cades, which extend 1300 feet from the mountain top into the 
lake below. These waterfalls are supplied by two lakes in the 
mountains, named Hagel and Hexen. 

“ Issuing from the hotel into the well-lighted, gravelled 
walks, fringed with flowers and shrubbery, we arrived at an 
eminence directly opposite the Falls, where seats are provided 
for the spectators. At a given signal the lights of the garden 
are all put out, leaving us in almost total darkness, made doubly 
dark by the shadow of the mountain facing us. Anon, a rocket 
was sent into the air j then, darker still and murky the inter¬ 
val. Then another rocket whizzed close by us j again, deeper 
darkness and deeper mystery, by contrast: when— presto! 
change ! !—each fall, to the number of twelve, became silvered 















BRIENZ TO BERNE. 


92 

with intense light!—silvered for a distance of 80 0 feet up the 
mountain side. - 

The mountain firs and other foliage, lit up with the sudden 
glare, were wonderfully verdant; with an immediate gloss on 
it that seemed fairy-like, and with a filmy sheen playing around 
the outer edges. At the bottom of each fall the foam seemed 
frosted into so much virgin silver, and bubbled away to sparkle 
again below j while the wat^-spray, like silver dust receiving 
light from the moon’s rays, floated away into the deep, moun¬ 
tain shadows. Up, up, up the gorge of the cascades we gaze 
with much delight, viewing the sparkling little rustic bridges 
which span with their quaint forms the glistening chasms, at given 
spaces, to the top. Down came the water in frolicsome curves 
and splashes, seemingly much pleased with its beautiful glow. 

Lo, and behold again ! are we in Fairyland ? One of the 
longest falls turns, or faints, into a liqui d pur ple j another, into 
a lovely sea-green ; and, at the base, theT^gesF fall of all, has 
dissolved into a stream of liquid ruby, molten and spreading, 
tinting with a roseate hue the dark stones, and starting by the 
sight the most prosaic into wonder and delight. Verily, one 
would think that I had exerted an over-vivid imagination in 
trying to describe this beautiful exhibition; but, the truth is, 
our language cannot depict the gorgeous effect of an intense 
effulgence of light over a large body of water—especially if that 
water is dancing, foaming, and meandering over a mountain 
side 800 feet high, garnished with a dense, varied foliage, hid 
in the gloom, then breaking into blaze, gilding or silvering every 
web-like twig, illumining every lichen-covered rock, piercing 
with light every nestling nook of the deep shade, exposing the 
tangled network of vine and tree-branch, and rousing beetle and 
bird. We saw the same Falls on the next morning looking 
innocent of the last night’s varied glow—as lovely and limpid., 
in the natural light of a fine day as would satisfy the most ^ 
veracious poet or painter seeking for the truly picturesque.^ So^ 
beautiful seemed the scene after the night’s theatric debauch, 
so tender seemed the daylight, that the tampering with Nature’s 
slumber appeared, after all, but profanation.”—W. J. 

INTERLAKEN, 

(Hotel Victoria and Hotel Ritchard. These hotels command fine 

I views of the Jungfrau and other Alps of the Bernese Oberland.) 

1 The lakes of Brienz and Thun are but a short distance 



INTERLAKEN. 


93 

apart, and, as its name implies, Interlaken lies between them. 
It is thought that formerly the two lakes were joined together, 
until separated by deposits brought down by streams flowing 
into them. 

Interlaken has been described as the Leamington, or Chel¬ 
tenham, or Harrogate of Switzerland. It was once a truly 
Swiss town j it is gradually becoming a little Paris or Brussels. 
Fashion and gaiety And their homes here, and the pleasure- 
seeker will vote the town to be one of the most charming in 
Switzerland. Many of the houses are built in the most perfect 
and accomplished Swiss style. Interlaken consists of a prin¬ 
cipal one-sided'street, beside which are the hoteTsTpensions, and 
boarding^Houses^*^ With the exception of t^e hotels, nearly all 
the houses are of wood, with overhanging eaves, galleries, 
shingle-roofs, and ornamented with quaint carvings and inscrip¬ 
tions. Some of these houses bear date 250 years ago, and yet 
look as sound as ever, though they are never painted. 

From the door of the hotel, in the quiet of the eventide, 
may often be heard the peculiar sound produced by an avalanche 
from one of the neighbouring mountains. For in the vicinity 
of Interlaken there are giant mountains, massive glaciers, 
rushing cataracts, picturesque villages, green oases, and the ever 
changeful combinations of Alpine nature in her most lavish 
mood.” 

At Interlaken there are many temptations to spend money 
in articles of Swiss manufacture, from the most minute figure 
in wood, or the horns of the chamois, to good-sized drawing¬ 
room tables, and other large articles of household furniture. 
The whey-cure is one of the institutions of Interlaken. 

The principal avenue of communication in Interlaken is 
the Holieweg, one of the finest promenades in Switzerland, 
with splendid views of the Jungfrau. Here stands the Gur- 
Saal, with its Reading Room, Restaurant, Billiard Room, and 
its constantly recurring Balls, Cojajcerts, and other amusements. 
At a short distance is the Monastery, an ancient pile sur¬ 
rounded by beautiful walnut trees. In the more modern part, 
called the Schloss, dating from the Government offices 

are located. The best view of the town is from the Hohbiihl 
across the bridge. 

Opinions diff©r..as ta.Lb£-enjoyment of a lengthened stay in 
Interlaken. While one traveller of a merry, social, fashion- 
loving turn of mind will revel in its promenades, billiard-rooms, 
and concert-halls, and such like, the thoughtful, meditative man 


BRIENZ TO BERNE. 


94 

will turn aside, glad to find a more secluded spot elsewhere. It 
is undoubtedly a capital place as a centre for excursions j and 
the tourist may branch off here to visit the Wengern Alps, 
Grindelwald, and other places of the Bernese Oberland, de¬ 
scribed fully at p. 8o. 

Whether the whole of this detour be undertaken or not, no 
one should miss the delightful drive from Interlaken to Lauter- 
brunnen, and the Falls of^the Staubbach. It is a charming 
valley, and a description of it will be found on p. 86. 

Excursions may also be accomplished in a day, or less, to 
(j) Kleine Rugen, and Heimweh Fluh, returning by the Un- 
spunnenj Hohbiihl, Vogtsruhe,Untere Bleicki, Goldei, Lustbiihl, 
Zwerglocher, Eck, etc. (2) The Thurmberg and small lake 
of Golzwyl. (3) To the Beatenhohle. 

Longer excursions, (i) Schynige Platte, 6180 feet high, 
with a fine view of the Snow Mountains. (2) To Lauter- 
brunnen, Staubbach Falls, thence by mule up to Miirren, and 
back to Interlaken j or over the Wengern Alp from Lauter- 
brunnen to Grindelwald, and back to Interlaken. (3) To 
Grindelwald, thence over the great Scheideck to the Baths of 
Rosenlaui and Rosenlaui Glacier, thence to Interlaken by 
Brienz and the Giessbach Falls. 

LAKE OF THUN. 

From Interlaken by railway to Darligen, and then by steam¬ 
boat, on the Lake of Thun, to Thun (the former station of the 
steamers of this lake was Neuhaus, a walk or omnibus drive of 
two miles through a long grove of poplars). 

On both sides of the lake is a constant succession of rustic 
villages, and dotted here and there, on the hill sides, are chMHsT 
villas, and gardens, backed by the snowy giants of the Oberland. 
On the southern shore are two isolated mountains named the 
Niesen (7,700 feet), and the Stockhorn (7,200 feet), ‘^striking,” 
says Dr. Forbes, ‘"from their sharp and peculiar outline j the 
former rising up like a vast symmetrical broad-based pyramid, 
the other shooting out diagonally into the western sky its huge 
terminal horn.” At a greater distance, the loftier Jungfrau, 
Mbnch and Eiger tower on high. 

The lake is ten miles and a half long, and two miles broad, 
and is nearly 1800 feet above the sea level. As we steam on, 
we notice on the right a perpendicular cliff, forming the base of 
the Beatenberg. Here is the cavern of St. Beatus, who, says 



THUN. 


^5 

tradition, was the first to introduce Christianity into these parts 5 
of course, no old-fashioned saint could have made his abode in 
the side of such a cliff, situate in such a place, with a cascade 
issuing from it, without' having some strange legends also 
attached to it. It is reported that a dragon originally occupied 
the cave, but was turned out much in the same way as St. Saba 
ousted the lion. St. Beatus had also accomplished the art of 
navigating the lake on his cloak, without any other external 
assistance. 

After passing the little perpendicular headland known as the 
Nase, we soon afterwards see on the opposite (left) bank the 
castle of the descendants of Erlach, the hero of Laupen. 

In about an hour after starting, we reach the mouth of the 
Aare, at which point we have a beautiful view of the Niesen and 
Bliimlisalp chains of mountains, the latter in their garb of 
never-melting snow. 

THUN. 

(Hotel Belie Vue and Grand Hotel deThoune). 

If the tourist wishes to proceed direct to Berne without 
stopping at Thun, he will alight at 

Scherzligen, the landing-place being close to the railway 
station. 

Thun has above 5,000 inhabitants; it is traversed by the 
river Aarej and its principal street is its principal curiosity. 
“ There is a sort of terrace some ten or twelve feet high, on the 
flat roof of which are the shops, while the carriage-way is 
bounded by the cellars, of which the terrace is the roof.” The 
sights of Thun are few, and therefore it is best to ascend to 
the church by a covered way of 218 steps, where a mag¬ 
nificent view is obtained 5 one of the most striking objects from 
here is the Stockhorn. whose bell-shaped summit differs from 
everything else within range of our view. The late Emperor 
Napoleon HI. was a resident in Thun for eight years, when a 
Captain in the Swiss Artillery, the house he occupied is now 
known as the Cafe Maulbeerbaum. 

Near the church is seen the tower of the Castle Of 
Kyburg, where the old Counts of Thun once dwelt. The, 
square tower, with its high pointed roof, known as the Berne 
Gate, is a remnant of the ancient fortifications. The Federal 
Military College at Thun is the Sandhurst of Switzerland. 
Reviews in connection with this establishment are held in the 


THUN TO LEUK. 


96 

neighbourhood in the summer. Some curious old Gothic 
windows distinguish the Beguinage, near the Town 
House. The Jacobishiibeli, or Pavilion of St. John, is a short 
distance from the town. The view excels that from the church¬ 
yard in beauty and extent. The majestic Jungfrau forms a 
prominent feature in the scene. 

Charmingly situated at the junction of the river Aare with the 
lake is the modern erection known as the Schloss Schadau, 
with extensive and well-ordered gardens, to which, on Sunday 
evenings, the public are admitted. 

Thun is extremely picturesque, but is not regarded by all 
travellers as the best halting-place on the journey. Those so 
minded can speedily proceed by Central Swiss Railway to Berne, 
the journey of about three quarters of an hour is short, but 
delightful, with views that require incessant watchfulness from 
both sides of the carriage. 

Berne, p. 98. 

THUN TO LEUK AND SUSTEN, BY THE 

GEMMI PASS. 

Carriage road to Kandersteg 22^ miles j thence over the pass 
to the Baths of Leuk, a bridle-path 53 hours. From thence to 
Susten (8 miles), there is a good road. 

To Kandersteg it is a charming drive through pasture lands 
and orchards, crossing the Kander, and passing Moos, Mlih.- 
lenen, Relchenbach, and Frutigen. At the latter place 
the road ascends the Kander valley, and passes the azure waters 
of the picturesque Blaue See, and the Felsenburg Tower, 
near Mittelholz, to Kandersteg. 

At Kandersteg the panorama of the Birrenhorn, Bliim- 
lisalp, Doldenhorn, Gellihorn, and other mountains, is superb. 

Soon after leaving Kandersteg, the road ascends at the 
base of the Gellihorn, and in about three hours the Inn of 
Schwarenbach is reached. 

Hence the path leads by the dirty waters of the Daubensee 
to the summit of the pass (7553 feet) known as the Daube 
or Gemmi, at the base of towering limestone rocks forming 
the Daubenhorn (9449 feet). From an eminence close by the 
pass, the view is very grand. The Baths of Leuk are seen far 
below, and around is a fine mountain panorama, comprisino- 
the Mischabelhorner, Weisshorn, Bruneckhorn, Matterhorn^ 
Dent Blanche, etc. 


BASLE TO BERNE. 


97 

Descending amidst grand scenery, by a skilfully constructed 
path on the side of the almost perpendicular rock, 1800 feet in 
height, the BatllS of Leuk are reached (Hotels des Alpes and 
Belle Vue). There are twenty-two mineral springs here. The 
bath house is a unique sight. Male and female patients sit up 
to their necks in one common bath, attired in fanciful flannel 
dresses. There are small floating tables, at which the patients 
sip coffee or read the newspapers for hours together, amidst a 
lively din of conversation in all languages. Visitors are allowed 
to view this curious scene. 

The road to Leuk and Susten crosses the D ala and passes 
Inden. The route is very attractive, and presents fine views of 
the Dala ravine and opposite mountains, and of the Rhone 
Valley as far as Martigny. 

At Leuk, where the culture of the vine commences, there 
is a fine old castle on an eminence. Susten, on the other 
side of the Rhone, is on the high road from Sierre to Brieg 
(see p. 77). 

BASLE TO BERNE. 

From Basle to Aarburg (p. 57). 

At Aarburg the line to Lucerne diverges to the south-east. 
Stations, JSiiederwyl, Morgenthal, Roggwyl, Langenthal,Biltzherg. 
At Herzogenbuchsee (which is a junction with the line to 
Solothurn, Bienne, Neuchatel) inquire whether carriages must 
be changed. The train generally waits from ten to fifteen 
minutes at this station. Then stations Riedwyl, IVyriigen, 
Burgdorf, or Berthoud, where Pestalozzi introduced his edu¬ 
cational system in 1798. The town is pleasantly situated, and 
carries on a good trade in cheese. It commands fine views of 
the Bernese Oberland. A diligence runs from Burgdorf to Lang- 
nau (p. 107). Stations, Lyssach, Hindelbank, Schdnbiihl, Zolli- 
kofen, junction, with branch line to Bienne (p. ud)* Between 
Zollikofeh and Berne is the most interesting part of the railway 
journey, the chain of the Oberland being seen from end to end. 
The approach to Berne by way of the Bridge across the Aare is 
very striking. 

BIENNE TO BERNE. 

This journey is performed in about an hour and a quarter. 

At Br’ugg cross the Zihl, and at Busswyl cross the Aare, 
by a bridge 800 feet in length. The succeeding stations are 
Lyss (Aarberg, four miles south, with ancient castle of the 

7 


BASLE TO BERNE. 


98 

Counts of Aarberg, etc.), Schiipfen, Miinchenhuchsee, and Zolli- 
kofen. 

Zollikofen is the junction with the Central Railway from 
Olten. At a short distance are the Fellenberg educational insti¬ 
tutions at Hofwyl. Passing the lofty, three-arched Bridge of 
Tiefenau, and the Castle of Reichen bach, where the hero of 
Laupen, Rudolph von Erlach, was murdered by his son-in-law, 
the railway next reaches the Drilling Ground, passes the new 
workmen’s quarter, and crosses the Aare by a curious, two- 
storied bridge into Berne. 

BERNE. 

(Hotel Belle Vue.) 

Post and Telegraph Office, near the railway station, 
west part of town. Branch Office in the Kramgasse. 

Omnibuses run from the station to the principal hotels. 
Fare, 50-0. j extra charge for luggage. 

Cabs for one or two persons to drive in the town, 60 c. 
three or four persons, i fr. 30 c. 3 whole day, two persons, 
12 frs. 

The English Church is in the Chapel of the Brge r 
Spital. 

PRINCIPAL SIGHTS, AND TIMES FOR SEEING 

THEM. 

Arsenal.—p. 103. 

Bear-pit.—p. 106. 

Biirger-Spital (City Hospital).—p. 105. 

Cathedral.—Interior, 30 c. 5 tower, 30 c. See tariff at entrance. 
Casino, with Reading-room, etc.—Near the Federal Council 
Hall. 

Clock Tower (12 o’clock best time).—p. 100. 

Federal Council Hall (^Bundes Rdthhuus^.^—i franc. Sessions 
of ‘‘the House,” open to the public. The Kunstsaaly Pic¬ 
ture Gallery (see below). 

Fountains in various places.—p. loi. 

Museum.—Free, Tuesday and Thursday, 3 to 3, and Sunday, 
10 to 12, At other times, i franc for two or three per¬ 
sons, p. 103. 

Picture Gallery Federal Council Hall, Upper Floor. 

Free from 9 to 4, except Saturdays. From Sept. 13 to 
Oct. 13, trifling fee 3 p. 102. 


BERNE. 


99' 


Schanzli.—p. io6. 

Terraces.—Cathedral Terrace, p. 102. 

Terrace at back of Federal Council Hall (finest view 
of Alps from here), p. 104. 

Zeughaus (Arsenal).—p. 105. 

Berthold, Duke of Zahringen, having occasion to overawe 
his refractory nobility, built a castle, around which a town sprang 
up ; and this is said to have been the origin of Berne, deriving 
its name, its coat-of-arms, and the ubiquitous bear in its public 
places, from the fact of its founder having slain one of that 
species in the neighbourhood. The town was about a century 
old when Frederick II. made it an imperial city. Consumed 
by fire in 1405, it arose from its ashes on a grander scale. Berne 
united itself with the Swiss Confederacy in 13^2, and in 1849 
became the Federal Capital. 

Berne occupies an elevated position a hundred feet above the 
river Aar, which nearly surrounds the city. This river is itself 
1500 feet above the sea-level at this point. The city is one of 
the most ancient in Europe, and^at every turn the visitor is re¬ 
minded of past ages. The main street, nearly a mile in length, ex¬ 
tends from the Nydeck Bridge to the Porte de Morat 5 the smaller 
streets are mostly parallel to the main street, and connected by 
transverse streets and places, so that the town has a very regular 
appearance. The streets, being mostly built in one direction — 
from east to west —have the two sides respectively distinguished 
as the Cote du Soleil, and the Cote de I’Ombre. The whole 
town slopes towards the Nydeck Bridge, the part below the 
Clock Tower being called the Lower Town, whilst above that 
structure lies the Upper Town. A stream from the upper end 
of the town runs through channels in the centre of the chief 
streets, only partially covered in. The fountains are nurnerpus, 
and many of them beautiful 3 they form a striking ornament of 
the city. The houses are mostly of grey sandstone, with iron 
balconies, contamThg seats, usually covered with cushions of 
crimson, or some other bright colour. The^houses, moreover, 
are^^nerally so constructed, a^to form an arcade over 
•\vay. 'Tn coId,~showy weatEer tKis has its advantages 3 but as 
was found to be the case in the Regent Street Quadrant, the 
shjops are rendered dull and gloomy. This leads to the almost 
universal practice in Berne of exposing the goods outside the 
shop 3 so that if you step in to purchase an article, it is highly 
probable that you will have to step outside to select it. 




100 


BERNE. 


Some handsome promenades, affording grand prospects of 
the surrounding country,' have been formed on the site of the 
ancient fortifications of Berne. 

On Market-days (Saturday and Tuesday) the streets of 
Berne are thronged with townspeople and peasantry. On 
Tuesday<,especially the scene is very lively. Pleasure as well as 
business is made a matter of importance. Few better oppor- 
turritks could be found for studying the manners, costumes, etc., 
of'the Swiss peasantry. Long'drays, drawn by ponderous bul- 
‘lo*bhs, and laden with f^rjn produce, are passing continually. 
Tke stalls %Te innumerable j very conspicuous are those for the 
sale of cattle-bells .for here all the sheep, goats, and cattle 
.‘,wear bells. Meapwfiile, provisions of all kinds are being sold— 
Veggs, pp.ijh;f^,'sgame, vegetables—going at prices that would 
dd'Jight; fhe- souf - df an English housekeeper •, and the whole 
scene is-one'of busy interest and enjoyment. 

The visitor will of course be struck with the shaggy animal 
which the good city of Berne so delights to honour:—Bears 

figure prominently on the city arms—on the gates, and fouri:_ 

tains, and other monumefits^modelled in clayjTirTnore expen^ 
sive materials, they abound in the shops and besides all this, a 
few favoured specimens in the flesh are kept in a municipal 
bear-pit. 

1 he principal street in Berne extends the whole length of 
the town, from east to west. It is known as the Gerechtig- 
keitsgasse in its eastern portion, and subsequently as the 
Kramgasse, Marktgasse, and Spitalgasse. The curi¬ 
ous arcaded shops, and the fountains, towers, etc., combine to 
render this street very interesting. On market-days (see above) 
it is the centre of Bernese life and enjoyment. At the extreme 
western end of the street stands the Ober Thor, or Moral 
Gate, with its two colossal bears in granite standing like sen¬ 
tinels on either side. Between the Spitalgasse and Marktgasse 
stands the Kafigthurm, or Bird-cage Tower, now used as a 
prison. Between the Marktgasse and the Kramgasse, in the very 
centre of the city, stands the noted Clock Tower. When 
! the founder of the city reared this tower^ •rt~guai'ded' the outer 
wall. 

The following .curious, exhibition.,takes place whenever the 

clock strikes:—At three minutes before the hour a cock crows 

and flaps his wings^; - presently some bears march in p rocession 

round an old manjVJnd the cock crows. again> Th en "a 'fdnh> 

•strikes the>h^r bn a'^beirwitJ^;a\]i^ammerlwifeR:l^ old man 

_.... -- , J . -- 






BERNE. 


lOI 



pet of the roof are the most striking of the exterior beauties of 
the edifice. The scul pture on th a west portal represents the 
Last Judgment 5 also a number of prophets and apostles. 
Opposite tE^ entrance is a fine bronze statue o.f Rudolph, 
von Erlach, with the inevitable bears at the corners of the 
pedestal. 

The Tower of the Cathedral, still unfinished, is 213 ft. in 
height, and commands a good view from the gallery, reached 
by 223 steps. The entrance to the tower is by a door on the 
west of the chief portal. 

On entering the Cathedral, the tariff of charges is seen, 
clearly written in German, French, and English. The Interior 
is grand and striking in its plain simplicity. In tTie’ choTr 
windows are fifteenth-century stained glass pictures, represent¬ 
ing the Doctrine of the Eucharist and a Scene from our Saviour’s 
Life j and there are some beautiful carvings of prophets and 
apostles on the choir stalls. 

The Organ is one of the finest in Europe, and should, by 
all means^ be hBa^, if possible. It is played daily at p.m., 
I ffanc^eingTKarged for admission. 

There are two monuments of historical interest in the 
Cathedral—one to the founder of the city, the Duke of Zahrin- 
gen 3 and another to Friedrich von Steiger, and those who fell 
with him fighting the French at Grauholz, in 1798- The 
exquisite marble group representing the Entombment of 
Christ has under it the inscription : “To all those Bernese who 








102 


BERNE. 


fell in the battle of 1798 for God and Fatherland, this statue of 
the Greatest of all Sacrifices is devoted as an everlasting me¬ 
morial.” On the adjacent walls are tablets with the names of 
the 18 officers and 683 soldiers who perished on that occasion. 

The Miinster PlatZ, or Cathedral Terrace, covered with 
shady chestnut groves, is a deservedly favourite promenade with 
both residents and visitors. On one side it is supported_bj3 
sto ae w all, rising_ almost perpendicularly from th^b ank.of the 
Aare, 108 feet belowT An inscription on the parapet sets forth 
how, in 16^4, a horse ridden by a yQung student was frightened 
by some children, and dashed over the precipice. The horse 
was killed, the rider only damaged 5 he recovered, and became 
^ pastor of Kerzerz. A bronze statue of Berthold von Zahringen 
stands on the terrace. The view of the Oberland scenery from 
this terrace baffles description. On all who behold it it seems 
to make a lasting impression. The Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, 
Jungfrau, Doldenhorn, Stockhorn, and other peaks, are con- 
I spicuous features of the scene. From the West Pavilion the 
\ visitor looks right across to the Finsteraarhorn, Eiger, Mbnch, 
/and Jungfrau. Especially wondrous is the prospect when lit 
up with the alpgluhen —that marvellous glow which rests on 
the mountains just after sunset—as if the reflection of a huge 
. conflagration shone on them. 

There is a Roman Catholic Church in Berne, but the 
interior is uninteresting, and there are iron gates to prevent 
the visitor from walking round to inspect what little there is 
to see. 

The finest building in Berne is the Bundes Rathhaus, or 
Federal Council Hall. In this magnificent edifice, 874 ft. long 
by 170 broad, are located the Public Offices and the various 
Departments of State. Here also are the halls in which the 
Swiss Diet or Parliament assembles. Two deputies from each 
of the twenty-two cantons form the Upper House, or Senate j 
whilst the House of Representatives is much larger, its mem¬ 
bers being returned by the cantons in proportion to their popu¬ 
lation. The debates, which usually take place in July, are open 
to the public. 

On the upper floor of the building is the Kunstsaal, or 
Saloon of Art, open, free, from Monday to Friday inclusive, 
except from September ijth to October 15th. The works here 
exhibited are chiefly by native artists. 

The positions of the pictures are sometimes altered, but 
the numbers are retained. The ohjets d'art are numbered from 




BERNE. 


103 

I to 1975 and these numbers include sculptures, etc., as well 
as paintings. The following is a list of the principal:— 


Room I 

1. The Flight into Egypt 

2. Madonna and Child 

3. Dutch Landscape 

4. The Alchemist . 

5. The Walpurgis Night 
8—12. Portraits 

22. A Sketch . 

24. Flight into Egypt 
29. The Triumph of Mars 
35. The Last Judgment 
37. Allegorical Tableau 
39. Justice Crowning Virtue and Con¬ 
demning Vice . 

43. Battle of Morgarten (p. 31) 

46. Judith with Head of Holofernes 

53. Hohenweg at Interlaken (p. 92) 

54. The Reichenbach (p. 81) . 

56. Landscape .... 

59. Battle of Morat. . 

61. Swiss Ambassador before Louis XIV. 

62. Portrait of Rod. d’Effinger . 

67, David with Head of Goliath 
70. Monument of Madame Langhaus at 

Hindelbank (p. 97) 

73. Infant Sleeping . 


. Alhano. 

. Barhieri. 

. Both. 

. Brekelenkamp. 

. P. Breughel. 

. Duntz. 

. J. Jordeans. 
Parmeggianino (?) 
. Rubens. 

. Ibid. 

. Werner. 

. Ibid. 

. Volmar, 

. Floris. 

. Konig. 

. G. Volmar. 

. Wiist. 

. K. Rieter. 

Dieiler. 

Imhof. 

Sonnenschein. 
Ibid. 


Room II. 

88. Collection of Swiss Costumes . . Reinhardt. 

94. Mont Cervin . . . . . J. Meyer. 

93. The Scheidegg ..... 

96. J ungfrau and Valley of Lauterbrunnen . G. Lory. 

102. Portal of Berne Cathedral . . . Lohrer. 

107. Group of Cats . . . . . G. Mind. 

117. Arch of Constantine, Rome . . Sonnenschein. 

120. Statuette. The Foundation of the Swiss 

Confederation (p. 67) . . . Dorer. 





BERNE. 


104 


Room IJI. 

121. The Last Day of the Ancient Republic 

of Berne ...... JValthard. 

124-. The Cascades at Terni . . . Bonstetten. 

129. Falls of the Giessbach (p. 91) . . R. Vobnar. 

130. Infant asleep ..... Dubufe. 
133. John Huss bidding adieu to his Friends Piocis. 

135. Episode in the Battle of Morat . . Girardet. 

139. View near Berne .... Dalton. 
143. Lake of Brienz. A Spring Morning . Veillon. 
150. Hagar and Ishmael .... Irnhof. 

131. Moses ...... Ibid. 

152. Ruth . . . . . . Ibid. 

Room IV. 


134. Falls of Schmadribach (p. 87) 

133. Elijah in the Desert . 

161. Valley of Lauterbrunnen (p. 86) . 

162. ChMet in the Bernese Oberland . 
164. The Dying Husband . 

163. Scene from “ Faust” . 

167. View near the Handeck (p. 88) . 

168. Cascade near Meiringen 

172. Mountain Scene. Canton of Glarus 

179. Landscape near Geneva 

180. Villa Pamfili, Rome . 

181. The School Examination 

182. The Little Friend 

183. Maternal Solicitude 

186. Saying Grace .... 

187. View in Rotterdam . . • . 

196. Rebecca ..... 


. Snell. 

. Geye r. 

. Diday. 

. Ibid. 

. Meuron. 

. IValthina, 
. Calame, 

. Ibid. 

. Steffun. 

. George. 

. Meyer. 

. Anker. 

. Ibid. 

. Schimon. 

. Vautier. 

. Ulrich. 

. Imhoj, 


Before leaving the Federal Palace, the visitor should not 
omit to ascend to the roof. Of all the many sublime views of 
the Bernese Oberland, seen from various parts of the city, the 
panorama beheld from this vantage point is the grandest and 
most extensive. 

In front of the building a Fountain will be noticed, with a 
statue representing Berne. 

At the back of the Bundes-Rathhaus is a terrace, affording 
a mountain view even finer than the prospect from the Munster 




BERNE. 


105 

Platz. The highest mountain (to the eye) on the left, is the 
Wetterhorn. Standing alone, a little more to the right, is the 
Schreckhorn. Still further to the right, at the end of a group, 
sharp and rugged, is the Finsteraarhorn. Then follow the 
stupendous mass of the Eiger, Mdnch, and Jungfrau. 

Near the Bundes-Eathhaus is the Museum. This build¬ 
ing is open free from 3 to 6 p.m., on Tuesdays, Thursdays, 
and Saturdays 5 and on Sundays from 10 a.m. to 12 noon. At 
other times a fee of one franc is required. 

The front of the building is adorned with statues of Swiss 
celebrities. The zoological department abounds in stuffed 
bears of all sizes and ages, and also contains many other ani¬ 
mals, including specimens of the rare lynx and steinbok, a 
gigantic wild boar, chamois with three horns, etc. Very inte¬ 
resting is the noted Barry, the dog that saved fifteen lives 
during his career at St. Bernard. In the ornithological de¬ 
partment, the lammergeier (king of Swiss birds), is especially 
noticeable. There is a very complete exhibition of Swiss geo¬ 
logical specimens, fossils, etc., with plans in relief. Some 
Roman and mediaeval antiquities of interest, form another collec¬ 
tion, in which the spoils from Grandson, and Morat, are striking. 

The University, founded in 1834, is on the S. side of the 
Museum. On the other side is the Town Library, con¬ 
taining 4O5O00 volumes, amongst which Histories of Switzerland 
abound. The Butter Market occupies the space below 
the building. 

Close to the Bernerhof there is in course of construction an 
Academy of Arts, for painting and sculpture. It is erected 
in memory of Rudolph von Effinger, a native of Berne. 

At the end of the street leading northward from the Clock 
Tower is the Zeughaus, or Arsenal. Many of its chief 
curiosities were taken away by the French, but sufficient remain 
to make a visit interesting. Some may find it pleasing to 
contemplate the axes, warranted to have cut off a hundred heads 
each. Here also are the halters prepared for the Swiss by Charles 
the Bold, and many ancient specimens of arms and armour. 

There are many charitable institutions in Berne, of which 
the administration and efficacy are well spoken of. The Biirger 
Spital, or city hospital, near the Railway Station, bears the 
inscription, ‘‘ Christo in pauperibus ” (To Christ in his poor). 
The Waisenhaus, or orphan asylum, is near the hospital. 
Anew Maternal Hospital, near the Observatory, is nearly 
ready to be opened. 


io6 


BERNE. 


The Kornhaus is a fine building near the Arsenal, used 
till 1830 as a storehouse in case of famine. An immense shield 
is conspicuous on the wall, supported (of course) by bears. 

The immense Zucthliaus (Prison and Penitentiary), and 
the Post Office, are a little to the north of the Railway Station. 

There are four bridges across the Aare, and in order to 
accommodate the new quarter of the town of Berne, which is 
rapidly rising into importance, it is proposed to build a new one 
nearly in a line with the Belle Vue Hotel and the Mint. The 
Nydeck Bridge is at the extreme eastern end of the main 
street of the town. From this bridge the town is seen spreading 
out like a fan or the tail of a bird, as far as the gates of Morat 
and Aarberg. The structure, 900 feet in length, consists of 
three arches, crossing the river Aare at an altitude of 100 feet. 

After crossing the bridge, we come upon the B'aren- 
graben, or Bear Pits, opposite to the old road leading to the 
Tower and Bridge of the Porte d’en Bas. In these pits a 
few bears are kept at the expense of the State—shuffling about 
after the manner of bears in captivity, and swallowing the 
donations of visitors, all unconscious of their heraldic dignity. 
About twelve or fourteen years ago an English officer fell into 
one of the pits, whilst attempting to cross the wall between, 
and was killed before he could be rescued. 

Not far from the Bear Pits is the Rose Garden, a 
pleasant spot to. visit if time allows. After leaving the bridge 
and the bears’ den, the turning to the left leads to the new 
Cavalry Barracks and Military School. From 150 
to 200 horses are always kept here. Visitors can always get 
leave to inspect the stables. 

These, then, are the chief points of interest in the city of 
Berne, claiming such notice from the passing visitor as his time 
permits. If able to sojourn awhile in the town, so much the 
better. Its local attractions and glorious surroundings can then 
be more fully appreciated and enjoyed. The immediate 
environs are truly delightful, excursions to many renowned 
localities can be readily made, and it is en route to everywhere. 

Crossing the magnificent railway bridge, we find the slopes 
of the Aare charmingly utilized as Botanical Gardens. 
About half a mile further on is Schanzli, a favourite place of 
resort where refreshments can be obtained, and musical enter¬ 
tainments attended. The view is magnificent, including the 
roofs and spires of Berne, and the far-spreading glories of the 
Oberland and Stockhorn Alps. 


BERNE TO LUCERNE. 


107 

A quarter of an hour’s walk northward from the Railway 
Station, through the Aarberg Gate, conducts to the Enge, a 
high rocky peninsula, forming a pleasant promenade and a good 
point of view. Continuing by a charming forest path through 
the Engewald, we reach the Castle of Reichenbach. Here 
dwelt Rudolph von Erlach, who led the Bernese to victory over 
the Burgundians at Laupen, in 1399. Here also the same 
hero was murdered by his daughter’s husband, whose debts he 
had refused to pay. 

Another noted position from whence to obtain fine views, 
is the long hill to the south of the town, called the Gurten, on 
the summit of which is an inn. The panorama visible from 
this point is a hundred miles in extent, including portions of 
the Oberland, Stockhorn, Freiburg, and Jura mountains, and 
portions of the Lake of Neuchatel. 

A glance at the map will show that from the position of 
Berne, and the facilities for railway travelling in several 
directions, it is very easy for sojourners in the town to make 
excursions to a great number of places. These will be 
mentioned in connection with the routes to or from Berne. It 
will only be necessary for the visitor to find Morat,- Laupen, 
Hindelbanck, Fribourg, or whatever place he wishes, in the 
index, and its connection with Berne, and its local attractions 
will be readily seen. 

Berne to Thun and Interlaken (p. 94). 

Berne by Herzogenbuchsee and Olten to Basle (p. 97)* 

Berne to Bienne, Neuchatel, etc. (p. 97). 

Berne to Fribourg and Lausanne, etc. (p. 108). 

Berne to Leuk, by the Gemmi Pass (p. 96). 

BERNE TO LANGNAU, ESCHOLZMATT, AND 

LUCERNE. 

(By new rail, 3^ hours.) 

Berne to Giimlingen junction, on the Berne and Thun Rail¬ 
way (see p. 96). 

From Gumlingen the rail passes, with good views of the Stock- 
horn chain on the right, to the thriving industrial town of Worh, 
with its old castle, and thence by stations Tdgertschi and KonoL- 
fingen, and round the base of the H6rnberg,-to Zaziwyl, a pros¬ 
perous place. At Signau there is a ruined castle above the 
pleasing village. Passing Emmenmatt, and crossing the Emme 
and the Iflis, Langnau is reached. 


io8 


BERNE TO LAUSANNE. 


Langnau is the chief town in the Emmenthal, an indus¬ 
trious and prosperous valley, some thirty miles by twelve in 
dimensions, and famous for its widely-exported cheese, its lovely 
green pastures, its picturesque wooden houses, and its fine 
cattle. 

Langnau was, until very recently, the terminus of the rail¬ 
way from Berne, and the remainder of the journey had to be 
accomplished by diligence in eight to ten hours. Now the 
railway is continued to Lucerne, and it is one of the most im¬ 
portant of the new lines lately opened in that enterprising 
country. A glance at the Railway Map will show how greatly 
it facilitates the connection between Zurich, Lucerne, Berne, 
Lausanne, and Geneva. The route is almost the same as that 
traversed by the diligence, namely, the Emmenthal and the 
Vale of Entlebuch. 

After leaving Langnau, the next important station is Es- 
cliolzmatt, a rambling little town, the first in the Entlebuch. 
Schupflieim, the chief village of the valley, was destroyed by 
fire in 1829, and since rebuilt. Many pleasant excursions may 
be made from here. The villagers in the neighbourhood are 
celebrated for their strength and skill in the national wrestling 
matches. So also are the people of Entlebuch, a village 
charmingly situated at the foot of the Bramegg, and having on 
the west the Napf, from the summit of which splendid views 
are obtained. Here the two torrents, the Emme and the 
Entle, unite, and add much to the picturesqueness of the place. 

Beyond "Wohlhusen, or Wohlhausen, the line takes a sharp 
curve round the base of the Bramegg to Mailers, after leaving 
which station a short run brings the traveller to Lucerne, 
p. 58. 

BERNE TO LAUS/^NE (BY FRIBOURG). 

(Railway, 30 miles—about 4 hours.) 

The journey is made through a fine open country, abound¬ 
ing with charming landscapes. Passing Bumplit% anil Thbrh- 
haiis, and crossing the Sense river, we arrive at FLamatt. 

From Flamatt a diligence runs to Laupen (3 miles), where 
the Burgundians and their allies were defeated by the Swiss, 
under Erlach, in 1399. The commemorative tower was erected 
in 1853. 

Then stations Schmitten and Guin-Ballisivyl, where the 
Sarine is crossed on a cast-iron viaduct, 260 feet above the 


FRIBOURG. 


water, and 1094 feet from one abutment to the other. Fribourg 
comes into view. 

The station for Fribourg is at some distance from the town. 
Omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. On approaching 
by the Suspension Bridge the view is exceedingly picturesque. 
The town, with its romantic medley of quaint houses, and 
towers, and battlements, and gateways, is finely situated on a 
steep eminence above the Sarine Valley, and forms a more 
imposing spectacle when viewed from a little distance than when 
closely explored. 

FRIBOURG. 

(Hotel, Grand Hotel Zaehringen.) 

This town is the capital of the canton of the same name, 
containing a population of 11,000, of whom 1200 are Protes¬ 
tants. It was founded by Duke Berthold von Ziihringen in 
1175. It is a curious town, outwardly and inwardly. Goto 
the upper part of the town, and everybody and everything is 
German 5 to the lower part of the town, and everybody and 
everything is French. It is a very hilly town j the streets are 
steep, and built one above the other ^ so that in one part the 
upper street is carried on arches of stone over the roofs of the 
houses in the street below. 

There are three things which must be seen in Fribouro-, and 
many more which may if time permit. First, an old lime- 
tree, fourteen feet in circumference, its branches supported on 
stone pillars. It faces the Town Hall and Council Hall; and 
as the old tree is fruitful in bearing a good story, sit down 
beside it and read the following :— 

“ When the memorable battle of Morat was being fought, 
the townspeople of Fribourg stood in the square anxiously 
waiting for tidings of how the day sped. There was one young 
fellow in the battle who remembered that the hearts of many 
of his friends and fellow-citizens were beating painfully in that 
time of suspense 5 and as soon as the contest \^as over, he ran 
from the field of blood, jaded and fatigued though he was, to 
bear to them the joyful news that the Swiss had been victorious. 
Away he sped over hill and dale, and, sliding down a rocky 
slope, he grasped a t*vig which would not bear his weight, but 
came out by the roots. Rising from the fall, on and on he 
sped, till he reached the square of Fribourg, where the old men 
and maidens, invalids and women, were standing with pale 
faces and clasped hands, waiting his approach. Breathless and 


no 


BERNE TO LAUSANNE. 


exhausted, the blood flowing from the wounds he had received 
on the field of battle, he could only raise his voice to shout out 
the word ‘ Victory ! ’ and fell dead in their midst. The twig, 
which he still clutched in his hand, was planted on the spot 
where he fell and now that fine old lime-tree stands there as a 
beautiful memento of the love and courage of that gallant young 
soldier and the victory of Morat.” This happened in 1481. 

Then the Cathedral, a Gothic building, dating from 
1285—1^00, with a fine tower 280 feet in height. The visitor 
will be struck with the remarkable bas-relief over the entrance, 
“ The Last Judgment ”—an angel weighing mankind in hatches, 
devils carting otf the condemned, etc., etc. The organ is one 
of the finest in the world; there are two performances upon it 
each day, and a pleasant hour may be spent here in listening to 
its strange and marvellous music. Some wonderful wind and 
storm effects are introduced by the organist. The bust under 
the instrument is that of Aloys Mooser^ the builder. The organ 
has 67 stops, and 7800 pipes, some of them being no less than 
32 feet in height. 

Third, the Suspension Bridge thrown across the Sarine, 
a small river, which runs through, or rather below, the city; 
for the principal streets are 200 and 300 feet above it. This 
Suspension Bridge, the longest in Europe, has a span of 964 
feet j and as you stand in the centre of it, looking down into 
the wild, rocky ravine, you have one of the most striking views 
that can be seen. This bridge was completed in 1834, at a cost 
of nearly ^24,000. It is light and elegant, and yet amazingly 
strong. 

Across the Gotteron ravine is another bridge, 746 feet long, 
and 30^ feet above the water •, it is fastened into the solid rock, 
but looks, from its slight and delicate make, like a mere chain 
thrown from one side to the other of the gorge. 

Amongst the other objects of interest in Fribourg, we may 
enumerate the Cantonal School, which, previously to 1848, 
was a Pensionnat for 400 pupils, taught by the Jesuit fraternity. 
The Jesuit Convent, suppressed in 1847, was founded by 
Father Canisius in 1584. The Rathhaus, with its curious 
clock-tower 5 the statue of the Monk Gerard the very perfect 
remains of ancient fortifications j and the general construction 
and architecture of the city. 

Leaving Fribourg by the railway, we see Mont Moleson on 
the left across the Sarine. Then stations, Matran, NeyruZj 
Cottens, Chenens, Villaz-St.-Pierre^ and Romont. The town 


BASLE TO GENEVA. 


Ill 


(population, 1600) is 2230 feet above the level of the sea. 
There is an old castle here, dating from the loth century, in¬ 
cluding in its construction an adapted Round Tower, similar to 
those seen in Ireland. Another Round Tower stands isolated 
outside the town. The Church was erected in the 13th cen¬ 
tury. 

At Romont is the junction for Bulle (45 miles), the chief 
town of the Gruyere cheese district. The little village of 
Gruyere, with its 9th century castle, is about two miles from 
Bulle. 

The next station after passing Romont—and, if the day be 
fine, catching a glimpse of the head of Mont Blanc—is Sivi- 
riez. Then Vauderens, Oron, Palezieux, and Chexbres. 
Hence an omnibus conveys passengers to Vevay in about an 
hour’s time (fare, i franc). Leaving Chexbres, the train darts 
through a tunnel, after which a splendid view is obtained of the 
Lake of Geneva. Grandvaux and La Conversion (for Lutry) 
are next passed j and then, passing on to the line from Geneva, 
the train enters Lausanne (see p. 134). 

Lausanne to Geneva (see p. 133). 

Lausanne to Villeneuve (see p. 133). 

BASLE TO NEUCHATEL, LAUSANNE, AND 

GENEVA. 

(From Basle to Olten and Herzogenbuchsee, see p. 97). 

Herzogenbuchsee, the junction for Berne. Inquire whether 
it is necessary to change carriages. Stations at Inkwyl, Subi- 
gen, and DerendingeUy then, as Soleure is approached, the Hotel 
on the Weissenstein becomes conspicuous. 

Soleure (pop. 7000), in German, Solothurn, is a bright, 
clean town, the capital of the canton. It is a quaintly interest¬ 
ing place, of Roman origin 5 for, under its name of Salodurum, 
it was a flourishing colony in very early days. It was once a 
strong fortress j its ramparts (turned into boulevards) form an 
agreeable promenade. Fountains and statues abound. The 
Cathedral, or St. Ursus Munster, dates from 1762, when it 
replaced an earlier erection of the eleventh century. Gideon 
wringing out the Fleece, and Moses striking the Rock, form 
two striking fountains on either side of the flight of steps lead¬ 
ing to the facade. St. Ursus was one of the Theban Legion. 
The Arsenal, near at hand, contains a good show of French, 


112 


BASLE TO GENEVA. 


Austrian, and Burgundian standards, and armour. It is the 
best collection of the kind in Switzerland. The most ancient 
building in Soleure is the Clock Tower, a rough pile of 
masonry, bearing an inscription assigning its erection to the 
fifth century b.c. It is, however, believed to be of Burgundian 
origin. At the striking of the clock there is a performance of 
automatic figures similar to that of Berne. Amongst the other 
sights of Soleure we may note the Jesuits’ Church., with a 
Crucifixion by Bolhein (1552), the Roman antiquities in the 
Hotel de Ville and in the Public Library, the splendid 
collection of fossils (15,000 from the Jura) and minerals, etc., 
at the Museum 3 and the Franciscan Church, which possesses 
a picture by Raphael. At No. 5 in the Bieler Strasse is the 
house where the Polish patriot Koscziusko died in exile, in iSii. 

Among other charming walks in the vicinity of Soleure 
we may note that to the Hermitage of St. Vereua, a 
pious maiden, who accompanied the Theban Legion. The 
path lies through the pretty ravine known as the St. Verenathal. 
Near the village of S. Nicholas is the Hermitage where the 
saint resisted the devil, a la St. Dunstan, on one occasion only 
escaping being carried off by clinging tightly to the rock. The 
marks of her finger-nails are still shown. In the vicinity is the 
Wengenstein, one of those immense granite boulders fre¬ 
quently seen on the Jura slopes, a memorial of the glacial epoch. 

But the chief attraction of Soleure to most is the Weissen— 
Stein, which rises to the height of 4213 ft., 8 miles to the north 
of Soleure. The view is more extensive than from the Rigi. 
The town of Soleure, the valley of the Aare, and the lakes of 
Neuchatel, Bienne, and Morat, and a vast assemblage of moun¬ 
tains, including Mont Blanc and the Jungfrau, the Schreckhorn, 
the Wetterhorn, the Titlis, and the Rigi are comprised in the 
scene. The ascent of the Weissenstein is perfectly easy either 
by the long winding road or by a steep path through the woods. 
Carriages pass to and fro several times a day 3 for, as the pension 
at the summit is town property, every facility is afforded for 
reaching it. At this pension the Swiss air-cure and whey-cure 
are to be experienced in perfection, and all around are ample 
opportunities for pleasure walks and rides. The Rothe 
(4587 ft.) and the Hasenmatt (4754 ft.), in the vicinity, afford 
even more extensive views than the Weissenstein. 

Leaving Soleure, the railway runs between the river Aare and 
the Jura mountains, and passes the stations of Ae/xacA, Grenchen^ 
and Pieterlen to Bienne (Germ., Biel). 


NEUCIIATEL. 


113 

Bienne was a free and independent town from 12^0 to 
1798. An interesting collection of Lacustrine antiquities 
belonging to Colonel Schwab can be seen by visitors. Leav¬ 
ing the town to the S.E. some beautiful avenues are passed, 
and the Lake of Bienne (Germ., Bielen See) is reached. 
This is a miniature affair in comparison with the more 
celebrated Swiss lakes, being only about lo miles in length by 
2 in breadth. From Neuveville (Germ., Neuenstadt)^ or, 
indeed, from any village on its banks, a boat can be hired to the 
small island of St. Pierre. Hither, in misanthropic mood, 
came J. J. Rousseau, in 1765, after being ejected from Paris and 
stoned by the street boys of Motiers. Of the peace and tran¬ 
quillity of this island home he has written enthusiastically. 
The room occupied by him in the little inn is still preserved as 
he left it, except that tourists innumerable have scrawled their 
names all over it. 

[From Bienne, Basle may be reached by a romantic journey 
through the defiles of the Val Moutier (Germ., Munster Thal).~\ 

The train to Neuchatel runs along the N.W. coast of the lake, 
stopping at Twann (Fr., Douanne) and Neuveville, From the 
latter station, on the right, is seen the Chasseral, rising in three 
terraces to the height of 5800 ft. The view from the summit 
embraces a considerable extent of Switzerland, the Black Forest, 
the Vosges, and the Alps. 

The stations of Landeron, Cressier, Cornaux, and S. Blaise 
are successively passed, and then the Lake of Neuchatel comes 
into view. This lake is 24 miles in length by ^ in breadth. 

NEUCHATEL. 

(Grand Hotel du Lac, in admirable situation near the lake.) 

Neuchatel is the capital of the small canton of the same 
name, which chiefly consists of six or seven valleys amongst 
the ridges of the Jura. From being a Burgundian province in 
the eleventh century, this province has since had many masters. 
German, Prussian, French, or petty local potentates have at 
various times ruled its destinies before its final settlement as a 
canton of the Swiss Republic. 

The town of Neuchatel is pleasantly situated on the Jura 
slopes, rising from the lake, at its base, in the form of an 
amphitheatre. The general aspect of the place is peculiarly 
inviting, the streets being open and admirably clean, and the 
principal buildings substantial in appearance. Scholastic insti- 


BASLE TO GENEVA. 


I 14 

tutions of the first class abound, both in the city and in the 
surrounding localities, and it is scarcely possible to walk; abroad 
without recognizing by eye and ear groups of English pupils. 

Neuchatel is renowned for its wine and its watches. Of 
the former, both in red and white varieties, large quantities are 
exported j the latter are produced in vast abundance, and, it 
seems, can be produced at a smaller cost here than at 
Geneva. 

The town is built at the mouth of the Seyon, which has 
been diverted from its former course, and made to pass by a 
tunnel through the rocks to the lake. On a bank of debris 
brought down from the old channel, a fine terrace skirting the 
lake, and known as the Promenade du Gymnase, has been 
constructed. This is adorned with rows of lime, chestnut, and 
other trees, in luxuriant growth. One remarkable clump of 
trees, probably 90 to 100 feet high, is to be seen near the Belle¬ 
vue ; and skirting a basin of the lake, is a magnificent grove of 
trees, all of gigantic dimensions, under which are placed seats 
overlooking the water. On the terrace first-named is an in¬ 
genious contrivance for distinguishing the various mountains in 
the vicinity. A brass plate, forming half a circle, has the names 
engraved on its outer margin, and a style, fixed by a pivot, 
works from one end of the half-circle to the other j when the 
side of the style coincides with a line on the brass plate oppo¬ 
site—we will say Mont Blanc—spectator looks along the style 
and over a sight ” something like that on a rifle, and, if the 
weather is clear, it distinctly marks the mountain we have men¬ 
tioned. The panorama of the lake, the Jura mountains, and the 
more distant summits of the Oberland Alps, white with snow, 
is very pleasing. 

The Schloss, on the hill, formerly the residence of the 
princes of the province, is now used for the Government 
offices. 

The Temple, or Cliurcll, is a Gothic building dating 
from the twelfth century. In the choir is a remarkable monu¬ 
ment, erected in 1372, by one of the Counts of Neuchatel, 
comprising fifteen life-sized figures. Farel the reformer, who 
was buried on the terrace outside, and General Zastrow, one of 
the Prussian Governors of the town, have also monuments in 
this building. 

The Gymnasium is the large new educational building in 
connection with which Professor Agassiz has been so earnest a 
worker. It comprises a Museum of Natural History, Lacus- 


NEUCHATEL. 


315 


trine relics, etc. Open free on Sundays and Thursdays, from 
II to 12 o’clock. At other times i franc is charged. 

In the same building is the Public Library, containing 
30,000 volumes, and a vast number of autograph letters of 
J. J. Rousseau, dating between 1760 and 1770. 

In front of the Gymnase is a statue of David Pury, originally 
a poor boy, who in the course of his life amassed a fortune of 
over four million francs, the whole of which he left to his native 
town. The cantonal Hospital was built from the fund thus 
created. 

The Pourtales hospital owes its origin to the munificence 
of a private citizen. It is open to applicants of any religion 
or nationality. 

The Observatory is a recent erection for the benefit of the 
watchmakers of the town. 


Picture Gallery. In the Hotel Dupeyron, formerly 
the Palais Rougemont, is a very good collection of modern 
Swiss pictures. Admission, | franc. Sundays from i to 4, 
free. 

In the Entrance Hall is a collection of casts. 

Rooms r and 2 contain, among others— 

8. A Young Savoyard .... 

12. Rosenlaui Glacier (p. 81) . 

13. Monte Rosa (p. 164) .... 

16. A Huguenot Family surprised by 

Soldiers ...... 

18. Cromwell and Mrs. Clay pole 

19. A Father’s Blessingj .... 

22. The Ne’er-do-Well. .... 

24. The Vintage of 1834 .... 

32. View of Rome ..... 

33. Lake of Wallenstadt (p. 47) 

37. View between isentwald and the Faul- 

horn ...... 

40. Henry H. of Longueville in the Castle 
of Colombier ..... 

30. St. Paolo fuori le Mura, after the fire 
of 1823 ...... 

37. A Flemish Bridal Procession in the 17th 
century ...... 

In the 3rd Room are portraits, and in the 4th Room 
sketches and water colours. 

Amongst the excursions from Neuchatel, that to the 


Bertkout. 

Calame. 

Calame. 

Girardet. 

Girardet. 

Girardet. 

Girardet. 

Grosclaude. 

Meuron. 

Jecklin. 

Meuron. 

Moritz. 

Robert. 

Tschaggeny. 


BASLE TO GENEVA. 


I l6 

Ghaumont, —a spur of the Jura chain—is the best. There 
is a fine view of the Lakes of Neuchatel, Bienne, and Morat, 
and the towns of Soleure, Berne, and Fribourg, and the fertile 
country between. 

The Pierre a Bot (toadstone), is an immense mass of 
granite, above 14,000 cubic feet, in a wood above the town, 
probably deposited by a melting iceberg, when the condition of 
things in this part of the world was very different from the 
present. 

Visits to the Gorge of the Seyon, Chanelaz with its Hydro¬ 
pathic establishment } or longer expeditions to the Creux du 
Vent or Chasseral can be undertaken by those protracting their 
stay at Neuchatel. Steamboat expeditions to Yverdon or 
Morat can also be made. 

BIENNE-CHAUX-DE-FONDS AND NEUCHATEL. 

The traveller wishing to vary the above route and make a 
visit to La Chaux-de-Fonds, may do so by taking a train thence 
from Bienne, and after visiting Le Lode, proceed to Neuchatel. 

Or the visit to Chaux-de-Fonds may be made (as is more 
frequently the case), from Neuchatel to Le Lode, either by 
railway 2^ hours, or by diligence, 4 hours. The best excursion 
is, rail to Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Lode, and diligence from 
thence by Les Fonts to Neuchatel. 

The views from the railway between Neuchatel and 
Hants Geneveys are magnificent. 

Stations, Corcelles^ Chamhrelien, Coffrane. 

Hauls Geneveys. The views from here are the finest 
on the line, and Mont Blanc is seen to perfection. Passing 
through a long tunnel, Convers is reached, and the next station 
is La Chaux-de-Fonds (Hotel de la Fleur de Lis), which 
is a large scattered town, resembling an assemblage of villages, 
in a bleak bare valley, over 3000 feet above the sea, and very 
imperfectly supplied with water. The inhabitants (about 
18,000), are almost exclusively engaged in the manufacture of 
watches and clocks, which is carried on in the dwellings of the 
workpeople, each of whom devotes himself to the manufacture 
of one particular piece of the machinery. 

There are always to be found commercial travellers in the 
hotels, a brisk trade being done here. Sometimes as many as 
200,000 watches are manufactured here in the course of the year. 

There is not much beyond the inspection of the industries 
cf the people to detain the tourist. 


NEUCHATEL TO LAUSANNE. 


II7 

An uninteresting run past Eplatures, and the traveller 
arrives at 

Lode (Hotel Jura), another town almost as populous 
as La Chaux-de-Fonds, where nearly all the men are watchmakers, 
and the majority of the women are employed in the manufacture 
of lace. A tunnel through the limestone rock forms a channel 
for the Bied, which in former days inundated the plain, and 
worked much havoc. The Bied, below its exit from the tunnel, 
leaps down a chasm too feet deep, and joins the Doubs, the 
water of the fall being utilised for turning the mills. 

The Saut du Doubs is quite a curiosity in its way, and 
should be visited by the tourist with leisure, as the scenery 
around is very beautiful, and the fall itself is picturesque. 

Pkom Lode by diligence, via Les Ponts^ Montmollin, Cor- 
celles, and Peseux, to Neackdtel. 

FROM NEUCHATEL TO LAUSANNE 

the railway crosses the river Seyon, and then enters a tunnel. 
On emerging, be careful to notice the charming prospect of 
lake and mountain. Near the Castle of Beauregard, a lofty 
viaduct spans the ravine of Serrieres, and we rapidly reach 
Auvernier. Here the Pontarlier railway diverges, and after 
passing Colomlier (noted for its white wine), we arrive at 
Boudry, the birthplace of Marat, at some distance from its 
station. 

Boudry is the place for the ascent of the Creux du Vent, 
where a strange phenomenon is to be seen. There is a basin 
like a crater at the top of the mountain, and when the weather 
changes, clouds of vapour roll within it, but do not quit the 
hollow. A gunshot produces a rattling echo like a volley of 
musketry. An idea of the phenomenon in miniature is pro¬ 
duced by filling a tumbler with smoke from a cigar, and 
witnessing the action of the atmosphere upon it, causing it to 
surge and roll like the sea. 

At Bevaix we again reach the lake, and follow its banks to 
Yverdon. At the next station, Gorgier St. Auhin, we see the 
small town of Estavayer on the opposite bank of the lake. 
Passing Vauxmarcus on the right, with castle, and chateau 
of La Lance, formerly a monastery, on the same side, we 
reach Concise, and then Grandson. At Grandson there is a 
picturesque old castle, overgrown with ivy. The town is 
memorable for its siege, by Charles the Bold, in 1476, when 


Il8 PONTARLIER TO LAUSANNE, BY VALLORBES. 

the populace were cruelly massacred after being induced to 
surrender by promises of safety. Roused by this atrocity, the 
Swiss collected their forces, rushed on the Burgundians, and 
totally routed them. A collection of antiquities is kept at the 
old castle. 

Skirting the S.W. end of the lake, we have fine views of 
the Jura mountains, and crossing the river Thiele, speedily reach 
Yverdon. At Yverdon, Pestalozzi lived from 1805 to 1825, 
and elaborated his practical methods of teaching “ the young 
idea how to shoot.” The ancient castle was the scene of his 
labours. It now contains a Museum, with Lacustrine curiosities, 
Roman antiquities, a Town Library, and Public Schools. 

There is much picturesque scenery in the neighbourhood, 
affording many delightful walks, or drives, or longer excursions. 
The Chasseron may be visited by way of the town of St. Croix, 
which annually produces 50,000 musical boxes 5 also the 
Aiguille de Beaulmes, or Mont Suchet, both over 5000 feet. 

Yverdon is a very good place to stay at for those who wish 
to explore the scenery of the Val d’ Orbe. This excursion can 
be effected by taking the train to Chavornay (15 minutes), and 
then taking the diligence to the old Burgundian city of Orbe, 
or by going on to Chavornay and then taking the branch line by 
La Sarraz to the Val Orbe district. 

From Yverdon the railway passes along the Thiele Valley, 
with fine views of the Jura, and other mountain scenery. The 
stations of Ependes, Chavornay, and Eclepens la Sarraz are 
passed, and then Cossonay, on its wood-embowered hill. Near 
Bussigny is a branch line to Morges and Geneva (p. 133), 
that to the left leading to Lausanne (p. 134). 

Lausanne to Geneva (p. 133). 

PONTARLIER TO LAUSANNE, BY VALLORBES. 

Travellers between Paris, Dijon and Switzerland, or vice versa, 
will find the New line of Railway from Pontarlier to Lau¬ 
sanne of great convenience. Formerly the tourist had to travel 
to Neuchatel,and thence to Lausanne, the journey being two sides 
of a triangle. The new line is the base of the triangle, and it 
is an easy problem to solve how great a saving is thus effected. 

The line is a continuation of that from Cossonay (see above) 
to Vallorbes, and will no doubt be one of the most popular of 
the rnany new Swiss railways. 

Leaving Pontarlier, a French town on the Doubs, where 


LAUSANNE TO MARTIGNY. 


]i9 

passengers’ luggage is examined, the line for a short distance 
runs in the same course as that to Neuchatel. It then 
diverges southward, and continues, through pleasant scenery, 
to Jougne. 

Vallorbes, the former terminus of the line, is a consider¬ 
able village, and its inhabitants are nearly all watchmakers. 
Romainmotior has an old Abbey Church, dating from 750. 
Margaret of Austria was married here to Philibert, Duke of 
Savoy (1501). 

La Sarraz, a well-to-do village, with a fine old castle, is 
the last station on the line, which soon after joins that from 
Neuchatel to Lausanne, and proceeds to Cossonay (p. 118), and 
thence to Lausanne. 

LAUSANNE TO MARTIGNY. 

From Lausanne the railway runs through the Lavaux vine¬ 
yards, and past the coal-mine at Fully to Vevey, and then 
past the stations of Clarens, Vernex-Montreux, Veytaux- 
Chillon (for Chillon) to Villeneuve. For further details of 
this enchanting district, see the Tour of the Lake of Geneva, 
P- 133- 

At Villeneuve the route enters the valley of the Rhone, 
about four miles wide, with grand scenery on either side ; 
which can, however, be much better appreciated from the road 
than from the railway. Through a large tract of alluvial soil 
the Rhone pours its yellow waters to the lake—singularly differ¬ 
ent in hue from the river that leaves the lake at Geneva. This 
alluvial land has gradually encroached on the lake; so that the 
Roman station of Port Valais, once on the shore, is now a mile 
and a half from it. 

The first station after Villeneuve is Roche. The top of 
Mount Yvorne was thrown down by an earthquake in 1384; a 
white wine of good repute is produced on the scene of the 
catastrophe, 

Aigle (Rom., Aquila —Hotel Victoria), is built of black 
marble from the neighbouring quarries of St. Triphon. From 
this spot a fine excursion can be made to the beautiful scenery 
of the Val des Ormonts. Another trip is to Villard, a small 
village, with several pensions, at a height of over 4000 feet, 
and with splendid views of the Valley of the Rhone. 

Near Ollon S. Triphon station will be noted a Roman 
Beacon-tower, 60 feet high, on a small wooded hill. 


120 


LAUSANNE TO MARTIGNY. 


BEX 

(Hotel des Bains), 

on the Avengon, is an interesting place, with plenty of accom¬ 
modation in the way of hotels, pensions, and baths. It is a 
•noted place for the milk and grape cures, and also for bathing in 
salt water from the mines. The pension-studded environs are 
charming. The most popular excursion is to Devens and 
Bevieux, to inspect the salt magazines, evaporating houses, etc., 
and also to explore the excavations from which the rock-salt is 
obtained. One of these is a gallery cut into the mountain, 
nearly 7000 feet in length, 7 feet high and 5 feet broad. 

From Bex the railway nears the Rhone, and crosses it by a 
wooden bridge, to unite with the line from Bouveret. There is 
a fine view of St. Maurice before dashing into the tunnel that 
conducts toThe station just beyond the town. 

ST. MAURICE 

(Roman, Agaunum) stands hard by where the Dent de Morcles 
on the east, and the Dent du Midi on the west, closely approach, 
leaving a gorge only just wide_enough__fprth^i^ad and mjet, 
tQ^ass. At this spot is aTDrfdge of the rjtH TehttrryTT^h- 
ing Tbfn the base of one mountain to the base of the other, 
with a single arch of seventy feet. The view from the bridge is 
really superb, but is missed unless the visitor arrives by road 
from Bex. The old jtown, which was fortified previous to the 
Sonderbund War, sta nds beside the REoneT^with dark cliffs 

low-^ ing behind . ' - 

The ancient Abbey is one of the oldest religious houses in 
Switzerland. Its treasury contains many elaborate specimens 
of ecclesiastical art in gold, silver, and precious stones. Queen 
Bertha’s famous chalice, and a celebrated episcopal staff of gold, 
elaborately carved with small figures, and a noted Saracenic 
vase, presented by Charlemagne, are amongst the most striking. 
There are also a curious MS. of the Gospels, the gift of the 
same prince, and various other curiosities. 

The Chapel of Verolliaz, covered with rough frescoes, 
is supposed to mark the site of the martyrdom of the cele¬ 
brated Theban Legion, and their leader St. 'Maurice, whose 
name the town now bears. This legion consisted of 6000 
men, who had become Christians. In a.d. 302, with the rest 
of the Roman army, the Theban Legion, one of the most cou- 





VERNAYAZ. 


12 r 


rageous in .the world, crossed the Alps. On arrival at this spot, 
Maximian commanded the whole army to olFer sacrifice to 
Jupiter. The Theban Legion refused to take part. For so 
doing, every tenth man was mercilessly slain. A second com¬ 
mand, and consequent refusal was followed by a second deci¬ 
mation. Again and again the terrible ordeal was repeated, till 
the whole legion, except a few who escaped, and became her¬ 
mits, had perished, rather than prove false to the faith of their 
Redeemer. 

Not far from this traditional spot, the visitor may get a 
splendid view by toiling up over four hundred steps to the her¬ 
mitage of Notre Dame de Sax . 

The Baths of Lavey (hot sulphurous springs) are on the 
opposite bank of the Rhone. 

The Grotte aux Fees is a stalactite cavern of immense 
length, containing a lake and waterfall, a short walk from the 
station. 

The next station after leaving St. Maurice is Evionnaz. The 
village marks the site of Epaunum, destroyed by a torrent of 
mud in 563. Near the same locality a similar stream of mud 
descended to the valley in 1835, bringing down numerous 
blocks of limestone, etc. As it crept slowly down like a lava- 
stream, no lives were lost, but much property was destroyed. 

Near La Barma village are the Falls known as the Pisse- I 
v ache, ab out 280 feet in height, a nd formed by the descent of ) 
the Sallehche from the Glaciers ot the Dent du Midi. Above 
the fall, a view is obtained of the Glacier of Mont Velan 
(12,330 feet), connected with the Great St. Bernard. 

VERNAYAZ 

(Hotel des Gorges de Trient) is the station for visiting the 
Pi< ^evache f m iles'l^-and also the Go rge du Trient mile 
b3yun3”’*^rnayaz)T"^ visit to this imposing ravine, with its 
rocky precipices, recesses never penetrated by the sun, foaming 
torrent, waterfall, and wonderful echoes, is strongly recom¬ 
mended (entrance fee, i franc). 

[From Vernayaz Chamouny may be reached by the Valley 
of the Trient. The path zigzags up through chestnut woods to 
Salvaxi (3033 feet). Close by is the Cascade du Dailly, 
wdiich is worth visiting, but with proper inspection of its sur¬ 
roundings, will add two or three hours to the expedition. From 
Salvan the route forward leads by the Falls of the Trieve, and 









122 


BOUVERET TO MARTIGNY. 


on through the Gorge of the Triquent, with the steep slopes 
thickly clothed with pines. Passing Triquent (3261 feet), and 
Finhaut (4058 feet), the path then descends to Chatelard, 
on the Tete Noire route (see p. 158). This cross route will 
occupy about four hours, exclusive of time spent at the Cascade 
du Dailly.] 

Leaving Vernayaz, the Castle of La Bathiaz is passed. It 
was built by Peter of Savoy in 1260, and was long a fortress of 
the Bishops of Sion j but the Round Tower is of much earlier 
and unknown date. The Dranse is crossed, and Martigny is 
reached. 

MARTIGNY. 

(Hotel'Clerc.) 

Martigny is an uninteresting town in itself, though its situa¬ 
tion as to surrounding scenery is fine. It is an important and 
busy tourist centre, from its position at the junction of the 
routes from Chamouny (see p. i 57 )» ^ 1 ^^ Great St. Bernard 

(see p. 156), with the routes from Geneva to the Simplon, etc. 
(see p. 170) Martigny has been twice nearly destroyed by inun¬ 
dations from the Dranse, the last occasion being in 1818. Of 
the latter calamity, evidences on the walls of some of the build¬ 
ings are still apparent. The bridge is one of the specimens of 
the roofed wooden bridges of Switzerland j the monastery sends 
its inmates in their turns to keep guard at the Hospice of St. 
Bernard. 

From Martigny, or from Saxon les Bains, the Pierre h. 
Voir ridge (8124 feet) maybe ascended in five hours; descent, 
three hours. The descent to Saxon by sledges is performed in 
less than half an hour. The panorama of the Alps, from the 
summit is very fine, including the Jungfrau (E.), the Great 
Moveron (N.), the Dent du Midi, the Aiguilles Rouges (W.), 
the Aiguille du Tour, the Great St. Bernard, Mount Velan, the 
Great Combin (S.), and many other intervening heights. 

Visitors not intending to go from Martigny to Chamouny 
should, if time allows, make an excursion at least to the Forclaz 
(see p. 139). 


BOUVERET TO MARTli^^^ 


From Bouveret (see p. 142) the railway passes over ground 
formed since the time of the Romans, to Port Valdis^ once a 
re^ pofTlm tIie~^hore of the lake. Porte du Sex is next 





BOUVERET TO MARTIGNY. 


123 

reached, a narrow gap between the mountain and the river, 
formerly the fortified gate of the Canton of Valais. 

Vouvry stands where the unfinished Stockalper Canal, 
commenced in 1740, joins the Rhone. In passing Evionnaz, 
notice the view of Yvorne, the Diablerets, and Oldenhorn, on 
the opposite side of the Rhone Valley. Monthey is at the mouth 
of the Val d’llliez. Up this delightful valley, well stocked 
with rare plants, for the delectation of botanists, a fine excursion , 
can be made to Champery. Hence the Dent du Midi can be ' 
ascended. 

Near Monthey are some huge boulders, in a chestnut wood, 
evidently deposited by a glacier. Among them is the celebrated 
rocking-stone, the Pierre Adzo. 

After leaving Monthey, the mountains converge towards the 
river, and the rail from Villeneuve is joined before entering the 
tunnel leading to St. Maurice. 

St. Maurice to Martigny (see p. 121). 






German, Genf. French, Geneve. Italian, Ginevra. 

Hotels. —Grand Hotel de Riissie et Anglo-Americaine (with 
magnificent views) j Hotel du Lac. (Both Hotels are 
admirably situated in the best part of Geneva, the former 
on the left, the latter on the right bank). Cook’s Tour¬ 
ist Office, 90, Rue du Rhone, adjoins the Hotel du 
Lac. 

Theatres, —Ancien Theatre, Place Neuf 3 Theatre des Varie- 
tes. Rue Levrier. 

The Post Office is on the Quai de la Coulouvreniere 
(7 a.m. to 8 p.m.). The Telegraph Office is on the first 
floor (7 am. to 9 p.m.). 

The Passport Office, Hotel de Ville, No. 28 (9 a.m. to 
4 p.m. 5 Sundays, 9 a.m. to i p.m.). 

The English Consul’s Office is in the Rue Centrale j 
that of the United States Consul is at the Corraterie 14. 

Carriages wait on the various Places. The coachmen 
must give a printed card, with number, name, and address, and 
the local tariff. 

Omnibuses run to Caronge, S. Julien, Mornix Fernay, 
and, in the season, to the Voirons. 

A Tramcar runs to Caronge, starting from the Place 
Neuve, and another to Chene, from the Cours de Rive. 

Steamboats start for the northern and southern banks 
of the Lake from the pier beside the Jardin Anglais. The 
express boats from the pier close by the Hotel de Russie. Ex¬ 
cellent provisions on all the boats. 

Diligences from the Grand Ouai, Place du Rhone, and 
Leon d’Or. To Chamouny, three times daily. To Sixt, once 
a-day. To Thonon, twice daily. 


GENEVA. 


125 


PRINCIPAL SIGHTS, AND TIMES FOR SEEING 

THEM. 

Academical Museum.—Sundays, 11 a.m. to i p.m. j Thursdays, 
I to 3 p.m. 5 p. 130. 

Arsenal.—By permission from Military Office, Hotel de Ville j 
p. 129. 

Athenee (near Rue Beauregard).—Exhibition cf Pictures. 
Bibliotheque Publique.—ii a.m. to 4 p.m. j p. 129. 

Birthplace of Rousseau.—p. 129. 

Botanic Garden.—Free all day j p. 129. 

Bridge of Mont Blanc.—p. 127. 

Cathedral.—franc to concierge j p. 128. 

Hotel de Ville.—p. 129. 

House of Calvin.—p. r28. 

English Garden, and other Promenades, Quays, etc.—p. 127. 
Observatoire.—First Thursday in month, 4 to 3 p.m. p.'i28. 
Rath Museum.— Free on Thursdays, from ii a.m. to 3 p.m. 

At other times a gratuity to the guardian p. 129. 

Relief of Mont Blanc.—Daily, from ii a.m. to 3 p.m. A 
small contribution required, except on Sundays and 
Thursdays j p. 127. 

Zoological Museum of the Alps.—Daily, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. 

Geneva is the most thickly populated town in Switzerland, 
although it is only the capital of the smallest of the cantons; 
population, 62,600. The river Rhone separates the town into 
two parts, and this natural division has almost as naturally sepa¬ 
rated the inhabitants into two classes , the Quartier St. Gervais 
being chiefly o ccupied bv folk oLtheqpQorer-sodLJ'~TReTTCT^ 
many others on the Continent, is being rapidly transformed ; 
progress and improvement are noticeable everywhere, both in 
and around the place- The railways whioh concentrate here 
have wrought great changes; for all around acres of fortifica¬ 
tions have been cleared away to make r'ooTnTbT 
vate residences, and public buildings, and institutions. The 
chief manufacture of the town is watches, of which about 
100,000 are turned out every year. In the production of these 
an amazing quantity of gold, silver, and precious stones is made 
use of. The visitor will find splendid assortments of watches 
and jewellery in some of the shops of Geneva. 




126 


GENEVA. 


Geneva and its lake have an interesting and eventful history, 
of which, of course, only the most prominent details can be 
briefly glanced at here. Passing over the ages when the mas¬ 
todon and his compeers were evidently lords of the rich tropical 
luxuriance which then characterized this district, we find the 
mysterious tribes of the Age of Stone dwelling on the shores of 
the lake, and leaving memorials of their existence in the piles 
and stakes that supported their rude huts. Then, as history 
dawns, come the Helvetians and Allobroges, who have left 
weapons, and chariots, and Druidical monuments in evidence. 
For a time mighty Rome asserted her sway in these regions j 
then, as Rome decayed, Teutonic tribes conquered or assimi¬ 
lated the Gallo'Roman element, which, however, has always 
been prominent in this part of Switzerland to the present time. 
How Burgundians and Franks occasionally wrested these fair 
regions from each other we cannot stay to tell. In 1033 the 
Burgundian Empire broke up, and these States became absorbed 
into the German Empire. And now Geneva and Lausanne 
slowly ripened for free institutions and Protestantism, whilst 
the country districts of Vaud were still intensely feudal and 
Romanist. 

Geneva became a town of the German Empire, governed 
by a Prince Bishop. By continuous struggling, the Genevese 
contrived to reduce the episcopal power to a minimum, and to 
a large extent governed themselves. Meanwhile, another dan¬ 
ger threatened; the neighbouring Dukes of Savoy managed to 
draw Vaud from its allegiance to the Empire, and longed to 
obtain Geneva also. They got scions of their own house 
appointed by the Pope to the Genevese bishopric, and much 
oppression, and strife, and discord resulted for some two huji- 
dred and fifty years. At length, to throw off the yoke that was 
growing intolerable, the burghers of Geneva allied themselves, 
in 1330, with Berne and Fribourg. It was about this time that 
the patriot Bonnivard was seized by the Duke of Savoy, and im¬ 
prisoned in the dungeons of Chillon for six years (p. 141). Fierce 
war now raged between the Duke and the gallant burghers. 
In 1336, by the aid of Berne, Geneva was freed, Chillon taken, 
and Bonnivard and his companions released. In 1380 the 
struggle was renewed, and raged till 1602. In that year the 
event known as ‘"The Escalade,” a final attempt to take Geneva, 
failed. Savoy now accepted the situation, and left Geneva to 
itself, growing and prospering, and backed up by all the Re¬ 
formed Countries of Europe. 


GENEVA. 


127 

The Reformed Countries might well be interested in Geneva, 
for here Calvin had taught from 1543 till 1564, and made the 
town memorable for ever in the history of religion. The tour¬ 
ist, as he stands by that small square stone in the cemetery 
bearing the initials, “J. C.,” will think of the mighty forces 
that have been put in motion through that man’s work, and of 
the fruit of seed sown in troublous times in the good town of 
Geneva. 

In 1712 Jean Jacques Rousseau was born at Geneva, and 
has stamped the impression of his genius on much of the 
surrounding scenery. 

Geneva was made a province of France in 1798, under the 
name of Leman j it again, however, became free in 1814, and 
joined the Swiss Confederation. In 1846 the aristocratic 
Government gave place to a democratic one, and since then 
atFairs have gone smoothly. 

The sights of Geneva can be readily seen in a single 
day. Passing from the Place in front of the Railway Sta¬ 
tion (where the large Hospice des Orphelins is a con¬ 
spicuous object), along the Rue des Alpes, and turning up the 
Rue Levrier, we reach the F.n ghsh Chiirnh . a small but 
elegant building, consecrated by meBishop of Winchester in 
1853. Thence the Rue du Mont Blanc will bring us to the 
Po nt du Mon t Blanc, completed inj[_863. There the visi¬ 
tor obtains a good general view of the city, with its broad quays 
along the banks of the bluie and rushing RHone. But the dis¬ 
tant viewls very striking, as from this bridge is obtained one of 
the best possible views of the Mont Blanc chain, in some re- 
sj^ects eclipsing that from Chamouny, Between this bridge and 
the next, the Pont des Bergues, is aj^mall islands called. the 11 o 
de J. J. Rousseau. It contains a st atue of that wri ter by 
Pradier." At tTie^^ther end of the Pont du Mont Blanc (left 
bank) is an open place, where stands the National Monu¬ 
ment, a bronze group by Dover of Helvetia ~an3~Ge5eva. It 
commemorates the union of Geneva with the Swiss Republic. 

Close at hand is the Jar din Anglais, a pleasant and 
attractive promenade. Concerts and fetes take place here during 
the summer months. In a smaH building in the garden is a 
Relief of Mont Blanc, the finest model in Switzerland of 
this celebrated group. OB Sundays and Thursdays it is open 
free from n to 3 ; at other times the admission is fifty cents. 
The model is carved in lime-wood, the artist, Sene, having been 









GENEVA. 


128 


ten years engaged upon it. From this garden may be seen, 
standing just above the waters of the lake, the Pierres du Niton, 
said to have been used as Roman altars for the worship of Nep¬ 
tune. By some they are considered to be portions of a harder 
rock than the bed of the lake, from which surrounding softer 
materials have been washed away j others assign them a glacial 
origin. 

The Quai de Rive will conduct us to the Church of 
S. Joseph and the Hall of the Reformation. The latter 
was erected by public subscription in memory of Calvin, its 
chief use being for lectures, etc. 

The Boulevard Helvetique stretches across the more modern 
part of the town. In the vicinity are the School of Gym¬ 
nastics, the Observatory, and the Greek Church. The 
latter is an edifice in the Russian style, with a gilded dome j it 
is noted for its exquisite music, ke'^; 7 

' North of the Rue de la Fontane, is the court of the Cathe¬ 
dral. This edifice, dedicated to S. Pierre, dates from a.d. i i 24, 
and “is a fine example of the Romanesque style. The Corinth ian 
Porch, added by Alfieri at the commencement of the present cen- 
tufyTi^ incongruous blemish. The interior displays some 
fine wood carving in the stalls, and some stained glass windows, 
and several monuments of interest. That of the Duke de 
Rohan and his wife, Margaret de Sully, and their son Tancred, 
is worthy of notice. Rohan was leader of the Protestants in the 
reign of Louis XIII., and was killed at Rheinfelden in 1638. 
On two sculptured lions rests a black marble sarcophagus, above 
which is a statue of the Duke in plaster, the original one of 
marble having been destroyed in the time of the French Revo¬ 
lution of 1798. The grave of Jean de Brognier, once Presi¬ 
dent of the Council of Constance, is marked by a black tomb¬ 
stone in the nave. The monument to Agrippa d’Aubigne, 
erected by the town in grateful remembrance of his services 
whilst in exile at Geneva, will be noticed in one of the aisles. 
He was a favourite of Henri Quatre, and grandfather of Madame 
de Maintenon. But perhaps to many, more interesting than 
any of these pretentious monuments, as a memorial of the illus¬ 
trious dead, will be the Canopy of the Pulpit. It is the same 
which hung over Calvin when the Genevese burghers crowded 
the Cathedral, and drank in the Truth of God from his im¬ 
passioned lips. 

Close by the Cathedral, at No. ii. Rue des Chanoines, is 
the bouse where Calyin lived for nineteen years, and 


GENEVA. 


129 

where, in 1^64, he died in the arms of the devoted Beza. 
Turning from thence up the Rue de S. Pierre, we come shortly 
to the A rsenal. Here are preserved many s pecimens of 
medi aeval arms and ac coutremeat&.Q^'the Swiss. The Duke of 
Rohan s armour is shown j also some scaling ladders, and other 
memorials of the Duke of Savoy’s abortive “ Escalade ” in 
1602. At the end of the Rue de S. Pierre is the 
Ville, a good-sized, heavy building in the Fl orentin e._style, the 
square“tower dating from the 15th century. IntHis building an 
incli ned p lane takes the place of a staircase, so that it was pos¬ 
sible to enter the Cbtincil Chamber on horseback. In the Salle 
de la Reine are some fine pictures. It will be remembered that 
this edifice is associated with the history of our own time j for 
here in 1872 sat the Arbitration Commissioners on the Alabama 
Claims. In front of the Hotel de Ville, in 1762, the Emile of 
Rousseau was burnt by the common hangman. Now the city 
counts his fame and glory as her own. 

In the Grand Rue, ^ No, 40, is the liouse in wllicll 
Ro usse au was born. The house formerly shown as his 
birthpFace, at” No. 27, Rue Rousseau, was the abode of his —r— 
grandfather. 

In or near the Plac e, Neuve '^are two or three objects of 
interest. The M u see Rath owes its foundation to the 
Russian General Rath, who was a citizen of Geneva. It 
contains some good paintings, i.e.. some landscapes by Salvator 
Rosa, some pictures by the Swiss artists Diday and Calame, 
and the Death of Calvin, by Hornung. There are also some 
beautiful plaster casts by Pradier, and a collection of enamels. 

The adjacent Conservatoire de Musique was founded 
through the 1 iberalirf oTa Genevese, *M. Bartholbny. Close by 
is the Bo tanic Gard en, founded by the celebrated De 
Candolle inh S16, and lunmofable for the horrible scenes enacted 
here by the Republicans in i 794. 

Opposite the Botanical Gardens is the Ac^cf p.mi e. a fine 
building, erected in 1871. It contains the Bibliotbeque 
Publique, which owes its origin to Bonnivard, whose library 
formed the nucleus of the present collection (p. 129). It con¬ 
tains more than 73,000 volumes, and an immense number of 
MSS. Amongst these are autograph letters of Calvin, Beza, 

Luther, Rousseau, S. Vincent de Paul, etc., documents of the 
Council of BMe, a MS. volume of the Waldensians, Noble 
Lecon,” and many other unique curiosities. There is also a 
collection of precious miniatures. In this institution we may i 

9 1 










GENEVA. 


130 

see, amongst the portraits one picture which is a sad reminder 
of the intolerance so often mixed with earnest belief. It is a 
picture of Servetus, the Spanish Unitarian, condemned by Cal¬ 
vin. It bears the label, Burnt at Geneva, to the honour and 
glory of God.” In the same building is the Academical 
Museum, containing the geological collection of De Saus- 
sure and the zoological collections of Boissier and Neckar, 
etc. There is also a collection of medals and antiquities. 

The Eglise de la Madeleine, in the Place of the same 
name, is the oldest religious edifice in the city, dating from the 
loth century. The doctrines of the Reformation were first 
taught in this church in 1334. One of the favourite Protestant 
places of worship in Geneva is the Temple St. Gervais, in 
the Rue du Corps Saint, where, on Sundays, the most popular 
preachers may be heard. It contains the tomb of the seventeen 
heroes of the Escalade. The Roman Catholic Church of 
Notre Dame, in the Place Cornavin, was commenced in 1831, 
and dedicated to the Immaculate Virgin in 1859. Pope Pius IX. 
presented the statue of the Virgin Mary, by Forzani. The 
windows are from designs by Claudius Lavergne. 

We have enumerated the chief objects in which the tourist 
is likely to be interested. There are, of course, other churches, 
municipal buildings, fountains, etc., the nature of which will 
readily be ascertained by the inquiring visitor. 

With a few exceptions, the streets of Geneva are neither 
imposing nor picturesque. The q u^ys, ho wever, are broa d and 
handsome, and afford pleasant and niuch-frequented"pr ome-_ 
naffes. The terrace near the Town Hall, known as La 
rreUle, affords a splendid prospect; and parallel with tKe^ 
Botanic'Tjard'ens is a pleasant walk under a fine avenue of trees, 
called Les Bastions. The Pl aine de Pl ain palais i s the 
Champ de Mars of Geneva; it Is pleasaiffly '^rrou with 
trees and houses. The Corrate rie w as anciently the rampart 
where the Escalade” of 1002 wasffied, and failed. A fountain 
in the Rue des Allemands commemorates this event. In the 
Cemetery of Plainpalais will be found the supposed grave of 
Calvin, already alluded to, and also the graves of Sir Humphrey 
Davy and the great botanist, De Candolle. 







GENEVA. 


ENVIRONS OF GENEVA. 


In addition to excursions on the lake (to be mentioned pre¬ 
sently), several pleasant walks and drives can be enjoyed in the 
neighbourhood of Geneva. Amo ngst places most visjted is the 
Confluence of the Rhone and Arve, a little below the 
island wlieitJ Llie' eagles (lieraldic^'eiAbTe^^ the canton) are 
kept in a cage. It is very curious to watch the two rivers as 
they meet at the junction, but do n ot blend for a considerab le 
distance 5 the Rhone, a dee|)^pe^ which gives you the idea that 
anyftiriig- white steeped in it must come out dyed 5 and the 
Arve, a thick, dirty white.r--Stx iiggling side-by-s ide, until at 
length they merge into a mottled mass oT waters. Voltaire’s 
villa, Les Delices, can be viewed on the way to the Confluence. 

Geneva abounds in beautiful suburbs and environs, and 
no difficulty will be experienced in reaching them by those 
having time at their disposal. Travellers with limited time 
should secure one of the open carriages on the quays, and drive 
round to the most picturesque spots. The coachmen are accus- 
tomed to such drives, and can be trusted to make the selection 


accbrdingffi the time the visitor can spare. 



We will just enumerate a few of the chief points ot interest; 
Secheron, with villa of Sir Robert Peel. Varembe, where the 
Empress Josephine, and subsequently Lola Montez, resided. 
Pregny, with fine villa of M. Rothschild j open by cards 
from the hotels, on Sundays and Thursdays, from 12 to 3. 
the Petit Sacconnex, with the finest cedars in Europe, about 
100 feet in height, and a dozen feet in circumference. The 
Grand Sacconnex, from which splendid views of Mont 
Blanc, etc., are obtained. 

On the Savoy side : the Campagne Diodati, residence 
of Byron in 18163 the promenades oL the Bois de Fron- 
tinex ; the Genevese holiday-makers’ resort at Montalegre. 
A special excursion on the Savoy side should be made, if 
possible, to Mont Saleve (4527 ft.), from which a grand 
panorama of the lake and adjacent cantons of Geneva and 
Vaud is beheld. Half a day must be allowed. Cost for 
two-horse vehicle and driver to the Little and Great Saleve, 
28 francs. , 

Fernex, in France, is distant only ^ miles from Geneva. 
Here Voltaire lived, and built the church with the inscription, 
“ Deo erexit Voltaire.” Here is the garden where he used to 
compose 3 also, his bed, arm-chair, etc. 3 and the mausoleum 













GENEVA. 


132 

which was intended by the Marchioness de Villette to contain 
his heart. 

The Perte du Rhone, where the river dives beneath 
the rocks (10 minutes from Bellegarde station) ; the immense 
French fortifications, known as the Fort de I’Ecluse (half 
an hour from Collonge station the splendid Suspension 
Bridge of La Caille, over a gorge 700 ft. in depth, which 
can be visited by the diligence which runs along the road to 
Annecy, are within excursion distance from Geneva. 

Les Voirons, a charming excursion, can be reached by 
omnibus (p. 124). 

THE LAKE OF GENEVA. 

{Lacus Lemanus of the Romans.) 

The Lake of Geneva is the largest in Switzerland, being on 
the north shore 56 miles long, and on the south 44; it is in 
shape like a crescent; its surface is 1230 ft. above the sea level, 
and its depth from 300 to 600 ft. The widest part is near 
Lausanne, where it is 8 miles across; and the extreme beauty 
of its scenery is between Villeneuve and Ouchy. T he colour 
of the wa ter is b luej that of-^ther Swiss lakes being ^reen. 
It has Been sung about, written about, preached about; and to 
select what has been said and sung would fill a large volume. 
Byron is always quoted, and deservedly, as he is, par excellence, 
the poet of the lake. Everybody knows the lines— 

“ Clear, placid Leman! thy contrasted lake, 

With the wild world I dwelt in, is a thing 
Which warns me, with its stillness, to forsake 
Earth’s troubled waters for a purer spring. 

This quiet sail is as a noiseless wing 
To waft me from distraction.” 

And the lines— 

“ Lake Leman woos me with its crystal face, 

The mirror where the stars and mountains view 

The stillness of their aspect in each trace 

Its clear depth yields of their far height and hue.’ 

A delightful hour or two in the evening may be spent in 
rowing on the lake in a good English boat (to be hired for 2 or 
3 francs an hour on the Quai du Mont Blanc), or to take a 
place in the steamer for a short trip, and, if so inclined, select 
one that has a company of Swiss singers on board, to give a 
promenade concert. 





LAKE OF GENEVA. 


J 33 


NORTHERN BANK. 

We will now make the circuit of the lake describing all 
that is of importance, and leave the tourist to visit for Wmself 
whatever opportunity and inclination may render desirable, or 
if unable to do more, survey them as well as possible from the 
steamer deck, or the window of the railway carriage. 

The railway from Geneva along the Northern shore of 
the lake, has stations at Chamhery, Genthod-Bellevue, Fersoix, 
Coppet, Celigny, Nyon, Gland, Rolle, Auhonne, St. Prex, Morges, 
Renens, Lausanne, Lutry, Cully, Fevey, La Tour de Peilz, Burier, 
Clarens, Fernex-Montreux, Feytaux-Chillon, Filleneuve. Some 
of these places are small, but are well known to many English 
visitors, from having children or friends at the schools which 
abound all through the district. There are also numerous 
houses and chalets which belong to or are occupied by English 
gentlemen. Many exquisite views of the lake are obtained on 
this route 

The steamboat journey, which is performed between 
Geneva and Villeneuve in about four hours, is far preferable to 
the rail, presenting a thousand charms which cannot be seen 
and leisurely contemplated from a railway carriage. The 
steamer keeps near the Swiss or Northern side, passing in front of 
Secheron, Pregny (p. 131), Chambesy, Bellerive, Genthod (where 
the two Genevese scholars, De Saussure and Bonnet dwelt), 
and Versoix. This town was vainly attempted to be nursed 
into a rival of Geneva by Choiseul, the minister of Louis XV. 
Looking southward, we have a grand view of Mont Blanc; 
the peaks surrounding it are the Saleve, the Savoy Alps, the 
Dole and the Voirons. Northward, the long blue line of the 
Jura forms the background of the Swiss shore. Above 
Versoix, is the pass of La Foncile, one of the few carriage roads 
across the Jura j it passes under the Reculet, the highest sum¬ 
mit of the range, and affords magnificent views. 

At Versoix we leave the Genevese territory and enter the 
Canton of Vaud. Soon we reach Goppet, where there is a 
chateau belonging to the Due de Broglie, where Necker, the 
Finance Minister of Louis, retreated to end his days, and 
where also his daughter, Madame de Stael, spent the long years 
of her exile, when banished by Napoleon 1 . The villages con¬ 
spicuous on the green hills by Coppet, are Myes and Tannay. 
The next landing place is by Celigny, which though enclosed 


LAUSANNE. 


134 

bv Vaud, is Genevese territory. Close by, the pretty village 
of Crans is noticeable. 

The next stopping place is at Nyon, an ancient Roman 
colony, founded by Julius Caesar. From this place the 
ascent of the Dole is most readily accomplished. The pro¬ 
montory of Promenthoux here juts out, opposite to that of 
Yvoire in Savoy, and passing these, the lake expands to a much 
greater width. Above the point of Promenthoux, is the 
Chateau de Prangins, formerly belonging to Joseph Buona¬ 
parte. Prince Napoleon’s villa, La Bergerie, is very near. 

Passing Dulit, Bursinel, Bursins, and other villages, and 
numerous pleasant villas, we arrive at Rolle, from which to 
Thonon on the opposite shore the greatest width of the lake is 
measured. This is an agreeable little town with a small island 
in the harbour, laid out as a promenade, and adorned with a 
monument to General La Harpe, a native of the place. We 
next come in sight of Perroy and Allaman, passing the cele¬ 
brated vineyard of La Cote, nine miles in length. Between 
Rolle and Aubonne, on the height above, the Signal de Bouchy 
should be noticed. One of the most extensive views in Swit¬ 
zerland is obtained from it. 

Passing close to the point of S. Prex, and in sight of in¬ 
numerable villas, and the towering ruins of the Chateau de 
Wuftlens, attributed to good Queen Bertha in the loth cen¬ 
tury, we arrive at Merges. (Hotel des Alpes. Pop. 2800), 
with its arsenal and cannon foundry close by the lake. Here 
Mont Blanc is again beheld • a splendid view, one of the finest on 
the lake. It is, however, quickly lost as we pass on. Morges 
is a delightful place for a lengthened visit. The picturesquely 
situated village of S. Sulpice is soon left behind, and the next 
landing place is Ouchy. 

Ouc hy (Hotel d’Angleterre). At the Hotel Ancre, 
ByroiTTnH&helley had to stay two days through stress of 
weather after boating across from Diodati, and here “ The 
Prisoner of Chillon ’’ was written. Omnibuses run from 
Ouchy in half an hour, for half a franc, to Lausanne. 

LAUSANNE. 

(Hotel Gibbon, an excellent house, in the best situation). In 
the garden-house of the Hotel Gibbon, Gibbon completed his 
“ Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire.” 

Lausanne is the capital of the Canton of Vaud, beautifully 


LAKE OF GENEVA. 


335 

situate on hills and intervening valleys. It enjoys the advantage 
of a salubrious climate, and a moderate temperature in winter j 
but its streets are badly paved and unpleasant for promenading, 
and conveyances here are dear and unsatisfactory. 

From the steamboat or railway, the town is entered by the 
Rue de Grand Chene, which conducts to the Place S. Fran¬ 
cois, the chief place of public resort, containing the Post and 
Telegraph Offices, etc, and also the Hotel Gibbon, in the 
garden of which the great historian completed his history of 
Rome. To the left is the Grand Pont, a fine structure with 
a double row of arches, spanning one of the intersecting valleys, 
and affording a good central view of the city. 

The fine old Cathedral, whose Gothic towers were seen 
standing high and dark against the sky, before landing at 
Ouchy, is the chief sight of the town, and indeed the only one 
which need detain the tourist desirous of making rapid transit. 
The most direct approach is by 164 mean-looking steps, ascending 
from the market place. Like most Protestant places of wor¬ 
ship, the Cathedral is not generally open to the public 5 Thurs¬ 
day only being the day on which it can be seen without 
application to the sacristan, No. 5 in the little square north of the 
Cathedral. The simple and massive edifice is one of the hand¬ 
somest Gothic churches in Switzerland. It is associated with the 
stirring events of the Reformation, for here in Calvin, 

Farel, and Viret met in disputation ; from which came about 
the separation of Vaud from the Romish Church, and the 
transfer of its allegiance from Savoy to Berne. The Cathe¬ 
dral, originally founded about 1000 a . d ., was completed in its 
present form in 127^, and consecrated in the presence of 
Rudolph of Hapsburgh, by Pope Gregory X. It is 333 feet in 
length and 61 in height. It has a central spire and two towers 
to the west, of which only one is really completed. The beau¬ 
tifully sculptured West Portal (of recent date) and the South 
Portal, or Porch of the Apostle, claim special notice. The pro 
minent features of the interior are— 

Columns ‘‘ (over a thousand) ” 

The Rose Window. 

Monument of Otho of Grandson. 

Tomb of Victor Amadeus VIII. (who was successively 
duke, bishop, pope (Felix V.), and finally monk. 

Monuments of— 

Bishop of Menthonex. 

Russian Princess Orlow. 


136 


LAUSANNE. 


Duchess of Courland. 

Harriet, hrst wife of Lord Stratford de RedclifFe, by 
Bartolini. 

Robert Ellison. 

Countess Wallmoden. 

There is a fine view from the Terrace surrounding the 
Cathedral; but if the visitor likes to ascend the clock tower (162 
feet), a much finer prospect will be obtained. 

The visitor who has time to make the round of the town, 
will find a few other objects of interest. In the Rue Montee 
de S. Laurence is the MuseC Arlaud, containing some good 
ancient and modern works of art, open free on Sundays, Wed¬ 
nesdays, and Saturdays, from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Near the 
Cathedral is the old cLateau, erected in the 13th century, but 
since subjected to many alterations. It is in form a heavy 
square tower, with turrets, and from once being the Episcopal 
Palace, it has now become the Council Hall. The Barracks are 
adjacent, and at a short distance are the Academy and College 
(founded in 1587). In the Museum, which is worth a visit, 
will be found— 

Collection of Minerals, given by Emperor Alexander to 
General La Harpe. 

Zoological and Botanical Collections. 

Antiquities from Herculaneum, Pompeii, etc. 

Relief of the Bernese Oberland. 

Antiquities from Aventicum. 

Objects from the Swiss Lake Dwellings. 

Natural History Collection. 

The schools of Lausanne are in very high repute, and pupils 
from Great Britain are found in them in large numbers. Pro¬ 
fessors of music, drawing, etc., abound. The Public Schools 
of Design maintain a high standard of excellence. There is 
an Asylum for the Blind, admirably conducted, which owes its 
origin to Mr. Haldimand, an Englishman, who, when 
resident here, took great interest in works of philanthropy and 
benevolence. 

In the Rue de Bourg, which is the central and chief busi¬ 
ness street, containing most of the principal hotels, there is an 
English Reading-room and Circulating Library, where, for 
an admission fee of half a franc, the traveller can peruse the 
Times, Pvnch, Illustrated London News, or other favourite 
journals from home. The English Chapel is on the road between 
Lausanne and Ouchy. 


LAKE OF GENEVA. 


337 


THE ENVIRONS OF LAUSANNE 

are exceedingly beautiful ; an abundance of tasteful country 
villas enliven the scene. Those fond of a quiet, healthy town, 
with plenty of opportunity for charming walks in the vicinity, 
will find their tastes well provided for. One of the most fre¬ 
quented spots is the Montbenon, a fine open promenade on 
the Geneva road, commanding a lovely prospect of the lake and 
its surroundings. The Signal is on a hill 2000 feet high, north 
of the town. The finest view in the neighbourhood is obtained 
here, the greater part of Lake Leman being visible, and a vast 
horizon, crowded with mountain peaks. The adjacent forest of 
Sauvabellin is traditionally linked with the worship of Bel by 
the Druids. Les Grandes Roches are about a mile and a 
half on the road to Yverdon, afibrding a fine view across the 
lake, including Mont Blanc, which is not visible from the Sig¬ 
nal. The Blumer Institution for Delicate Children, at the 
Chateau de Venues, on the Berne road, is worthy of attention. 
The view is grand. The English Cemetery, two miles along 
the Berne road, contains the remains of John Philip Kemble, 
the tragedian. At a short distance is the garden he delighted to 
cultivate, and the house where he died (Feb. 26, 1823). 

Several excursions can be made from Lausanne by rail, 
amongst others, via Cassonsay, to the magnificent scenery of the 
Val Orbe 3 or to all parts of the lake, from Ouchy. 

Lea ving Ouchy, the route becomes surpassirjgly beautiful, 
the steamer passes Fully and Lutry, and we find ourselves in 
front of the cele brated vineyards of Lavau x, which extend for 
ten miles along the lake. An i mmens e amount of lab our has 
been expended, i n rearing the innumerable low”*w'aTrs""^^!ltch 
sustai n the crumB TTng" soil. Near Cully, which '^fands'^n’lEe 
midst of itiiese vineyarHspis the monument to Major Davel, 
killed during the long struggle between Vaud and Berne. On 
a terrace of rocks, near S. Saphorin, stands the old castle of 
Glerolles 3 and hard by a picturesque waterfall is formed by the 
torrent of the Forestay. Above, on the height, is the Tour de 
Course, the remains of a stronghold, dating from the loth 
century—once a refuge for the neighbouring villagers in times 
of chronic strife and disturbance. The traveller will be 
struck with the amount of skill and industry that must have 
been necessary to construct a carriage road and railway in the 
narrow limits between the mountains and the lake. On leaving 







LAKE OF GENEVA. 


•38 

Glerolles, and catching sight of ^V evey, the slopes are more 
gradual, the valley wider, and the whole landscape softer and 
more cultivated. 

i^EVEY . 

(Grand Hotel Vevey), 

(Pop. 7800), the representative of the old Roman Fibiscum^ is 
the second town of the Canton Vaud j clean, picturesque, and 
with a climate free from extremes, either in summer or winter. 
The town is situated at the end of a narrow valley, down which 
the Veveyse rushes to the lake. Its exquisite views and plea¬ 
sant walks in the neighbourhood attract a large number of 
visitors. 

From Vevey may be seen Chillon, Clarens, Villeneuve, and 
the mouth of the Rhone j in the distance the Alps of the Valois, 
with the Dent du Midi and Mont Catogne j whilst on the oppo¬ 
site shore of the lake are seen the rocks of Meillerie, with the 
Dent d’Oche. The best point of view in the town is the Q.uai 
Sina; but some spots outside the town afford more extensive 
prospects. 

On the left of the landing-place is the chateau of M. Cou- 
vreu, with its beautiful tropical garden, open free from 10 a.m. 
to 12, on Thursdays, Fridays, and Sundays. At other times the 
gardener expects a franc. 

In the Church, of St. Martin (15th century), amongst 
the vineyards above the town, are the graves of Ludlow and 
Broughton, two of the judges of Charles I.;—it was Broughton 
who read the sentence of death. In vain Charles II. demanded 
their extradition ; in this quiet town they ended their days. An 
“ Indicateur des Montagnes ” will be found here. 

The English Church service takes place at St. Claire on 
Sundays, at ii a.m., and 3.30 p.m. 

Rousseau’s favourite inn, the Clef,” has been transformed 
into a cafe, with the same name. 

Vevey is the centre of the Swiss wine-growing district 5 the 
wine called Lavaux being its speciality. An ancient guild 
known as L’Abbaye des Vignerons,” exists here, whose func¬ 
tion it is to promote the interests of the wine-growers, and ex¬ 
cite competition by presenting prizes to the most successful. 
After an extraordinary wine season, a grand festival is held, 
known as La Fete des Vignerons. It last took place in 1865. 

‘‘ The Vintners’ Fete at Vevey,” says a recent writer in “ All 
the World Over,” “ is famous everywhere, and though still in 



VEVEY. 


139 

vogue, is a genuine relic of the old worship of Bacchus—a 
deity long revered in this, a vine country par excellence. 

“ The continuance of this fete is characteristic of the con¬ 
servative and mirth-loving Vaudois. It comes off every twelve 
or fifteen years in the market-place of Vevey. A large plat¬ 
form is raised, the square is gay with flags and triumphal arches, 
and thronged with spectators—artisans, little peasant pro¬ 
prietors by hundreds, and strangers from all quarters. The 
music strikes up, and gives the signal for the grand allegorical 
procession of the Four Seasons. But first comes a corps of 
Swiss halberdiers in motley costume, the vintner guilds of Vevey 
and la Pans, and their abbe carrying a gilt crosier. He opens 
the proceedings with a speech, and the coronation of the two 
most successful vintners. 

This little ceremony over, the procession begins. First 
enters Spring, a young girl in the character of Pales, reclining 
in a triumphal car. Children and shepherdesses dance around 
her, haymakers, labourers, and Alpine cowherds sing their 
Ranz des Vaches. Summer follows—a lady of riper years, im¬ 
personating Ceres—in a car drawn by two large oxen, accom¬ 
panied by children carrying beehives and other appropriate 
fixtures. With Autumn comes the climax of excitement, as 
Bacchus, the god of the vine, appears in a chariot drawn by 
horses covered with tiger skins. This is the signal for wild 
dances and wilder music, after the fashion of the ancients. He 
is accompanied by his train, among which Silenus, mounted on 
his ass, figures conspicuously. Winter ends the cortege, which 
thus forms a complete series of illustrations of rural life. In 
this, the cold season, the peasant’s work is ended, and he returns 
to his cottage hearth. So winter stands in their minds for 
things domestic, and is pictured accordingly. The aged parents 
lead the way, then come the young couple, bride and bride¬ 
groom. Rustic dances by woodmen and huntsmen follow, and 
the whole concludes with a grand patriotic hymn. The tenacity 
of life shown by this remarkable fete arises, no doubt, from its 
being more than a mere recreation and show. It still breathes 
the true spirit of the people, of whose labours and joys it is a 
faithful picture.” * 

The environs of Vevey are replete with interest. Haute- 
ville, a mile and a half from the town, is an imposing struc¬ 
ture, and affords beyond doubt the finest prospect in the neigh- 


* “ All the World Over.” (T. Cook & Son.) July, 1875. 


LAKE OF GENEVA. 


140 

bourhood. Blonay, at a somewhat greater distance from the 
town, is a romantic castle, which for eight centuries was the 
residence of the most powerful and distinguished of the old 
Vaudois families. History and tradition join in confirmation of 
the spotless honour and renowned valour of the house of De 
Blonay. When the aristocracy were swept away at the close of 
the last century, the family was still held in local reverence. It 
exists in the neighbouring French province of Chablais at this 
day. The Pleiades (4000 feet) is visited for the view from 
its summit, and also for the Sulphur Baths of L’Alliaz at the 
base. La Tour de Peilz is a little village west of Vevey, with 
an old castle built in 1239 by Amadeus IV., Duke of Savoy ; 
but its two round towers are of very uncertain and possibly far 
earlier orig^in. Peilz means skin, and is said to refer to a certain 
Crusading proprietor, who returned to find his chateau roofless, 
and made for it a temporary roof of skins. 

Most of the objects mentioned in the preceding paragraph 
are visible from the steamer as we resume our course on the 
lake.' The vineyards again reappear, and become a conspicuous 
feature of the landscape. In about a quarter of an hour we 
arrive at Cla^JlS. 

Clarens is all poetry, and little else, and Byron must again 
describe it to us, in the place which none would feel as if they 
had visited, did they not read it here— 

“ Clarens ! sweet Clarens, birthplace of deep Love ! 

Thine air is the young breath of passionate thought j 
Thy trees take root in Love 5 the snows above 
The very glaciers have his colours caught, 

And sunset into rose-hues sees them wrought 
By rays which sleep there lovingly : the rocks, 

The permanent crags, tell here of Love, who sought 
In them a refuge from the worldly shocks 

Which stir and sting the soul with hope that woos, then mocks. 

“’Twas not for fiction chose Rousseau this spot. 

Peopling it with affections ; but he found 
It was the scene which passion must allot 
To the mind’s purified beings j ’twas the ground 
Where early Love his Psyche’s zone unbound. 

And hallowed it with loveliness; ’tis lone. 

And wonderful, and deep, and hath a sound, 

And sense, and sight of sweetness; here the Rhone 

Hath spread himself a couch, the Alps have rear’d a throne.’’ 

Notice the clump of trees to the left known as the “ Bos¬ 
quet de Julie,” the favourite resort of La Nouvelle Heloise.” 


CHILLON. 


I4I 

Montreux (Langbien’s Hotel Beau-Sejour au Lac), 
the warm winter refuge of the invalid, Glion, Vernex, 
and Veytaux, embosomed in walnuts, successively appear in 
sight, and near the latter is the renowned C astle o f Chillon . 

This Castle, washed by the waters of the lake, which atTKis . 
point is over 300 feet in depth, was built in a.d. 830, and forti- 
tied by the Dukes of Savoy about four centuries afterwards. 
Apart from its historic interest, it is impressive from its solid 
walls and towers, and its strangely isolated situation on a rock 
connected with the bank by a wooden bridge. Over the entrance 
is the inscription, ‘‘ God bless all who come in and go out.” 
It well repays a visit to its feudal hall, bedrooms, etc., and the 
rock-hewn dungeons beneath, in one of which thousands of 
Jews are said to have been sentenced to death, and forthwith 
drowned in the lake. The beam where criminals were hung, 
the torture-chamber, the oubliette, and other horrors, are shown. 
But the dungeon rendered memorable by Lord Byron’s ‘‘ Pri¬ 
soner of Chillon ” is, of course, the chief point of interest. 

“ Chillon ! thy prison is a holy place, 

And thy sad floor an altar—for ’twas trod. 

Until his very steps have left a trace 
Worn, as if thy cold pavement were a sod, 

By Bonnivard ! May none those marks efface. 

For they appeal from tyranny to God.” 

The tourist, when he treads the pavement worn down by 
the feet of the prisoner, or touches the iron ring in the dungeon 
by which he was bound to one of the pillars, must remember 
that the subject of Lord Byron’s poem is not to be received as 
a record of the historical Bonnivard. A few facts may not be 
uninteresting, nor need they necessarily spoil the charm of the 
fiction. 

Francois de Bonnivard was born in 1496 at Seyssel. He 
was educated at Turin, and at the age of sixteen received from 
his uncle the rich Priory of St. Victor, and the lands attached 
thereto. In ijip the Duke of Savoy attacked Geneva, and 
Bonnivard, who was of liberal opinions, and opposed to feudal 
oppression, sided with the Republic. He was captured, and 
confined by the tyrannical Duke for two years in the Castle at 
Grolee. No sooner was be released, than he again made a 
strenuous effort to advance the principles of the Republic. 
Again, in 1^30, he fell into the hands of the Duke of Savoy, 
and was confined for six years in the Castle of Chillon. Dur¬ 
ing this time the Cantons of Berne and Fribourg were in league 




LAKE OF GENEVA. 


142 

with the Republic of Geneva j and when at length the Bernese 
took possession of the Canton of Vaud, they lost no time in 
throwing open the doors of the Chateau de Chillon, and releas¬ 
ing Bonnivard. He returned to Geneva, fought bravely in the 
cause of the Republic, and died in 1570 at the age of seventy- 
five. His fine collection of books formed the foundation of the 
public Library (p. 129). 

“ On the fact of Bonnivard’s imprisonment here, and cer¬ 
tain traditions of the residents in the vicinity, Lord Byron 
founded his short narrative poem of ^ The Prisoner of Chillon.’ 
The additional circumstance of two of the brothers of Bonni¬ 
vard having been imprisoned with him has no foundation, ex¬ 
cept in the imagination of the poet. The description of their 
sufferings and death, which forms the most affecting part of the 
narrative, was probably suggested by Dante’s Count Ugolino and 
his two sons.” 

The earliest recorded prisoner was a dangerous Bishop of 
Corbie, shut up here by Louis le Debonnair. 

Near the Castle of Chillon a part of the plot of Rousseau’s 
celebrated “ Nouvelle Heloise ” is laid. 

We now speedily arrive at Vill^rbetwe, the ancient little 
town at the head of the lake. Someof tHe steamers go 0^1 to 
Bou veret. 

’ SOUTHERN BANK. 

Between Geneva and Bouveret diligences run to and fro daily 
along the southern or Savoy side of the lake. Steamers run 
twice daily to Bouveret in five and a half hours 3 four times 
daily to Evian-les-Eaux, crossing thence to Ouchy (see local 
time-tables). 

Two miles from Geneva is Cologny, betM^een which and 
the lake stands the Villa Diodati, where Lord Byron resided in 
1816, and composed the third canton of Childe Harolde and 
Manfred. The hamlets of La Belotte (stat.), Bessinges, Vese- 
nar, Collonge, BeUerive (stat.), Anieres (stat.), and Hermance 
(stat.), are in Genevan territory. Entering Chablais, a district 
of Savoy, we pass the Savoyard Castles of Beauregard and De 
Boigne, and the little village of Nernier, on the edge of the 
water. From the point of Yvoire a deep bay recedes, on which 
stands Thonon (nine miles by road from Geneva), the ancient 
seat of the Dukes of Savoy. 

Evian, or Evian-les-Eaux, is a fashionable French 
watering-place j the mineral waters have a high reputation for 


SOUTHERN BANK. 


H3 

gout, and various other complaints. A company, under 
English direction,” is engaged in developing the attractions of 
this charming neighbourhood. Several short excursions can be 
madej for instance, to the fine ruined Castle of Allinges, 
where S. Francis de Sales dwelt many years; to Laninge, or 
to the Valley of theDranse. The torrent of the Dranse widens 
as it reaches the lake, and is crossed by a curious bridge of 
twenty-four arches. Near the mouth of the river is the pretty 
village of Amphion, with ferruginous waters. 

Another pleasant expedition is to the old Castle of La 
Ripaille, famous for its connection with the eccentric Victor 
Amadeus VITI. of Savoy, successively duke, pope, and friar. 
This ruin is seen from the steamer soon after passing Thonon. 
To this monastery he withdrew for several years with six 
companions, and founded the order of the Knight-errants of 
St. Maurice. According to one tradition, they passed their 
time in carousing, and thus gave rise to the French expression, 
‘^faire ripaille ,or to make merry, very merry. According to 
another, they led an exemplary life of abstinence, and the name 
of the convent was derived simply from its situation on the 
shore, or ripa. 

It is now a farm, the church is a hayloft, the cemetery a 
cultivated field. The park of oaks which Amadeus had laid out 
in the form of a star was allowed to run wild. The vegetation 
here is extremely rich. An enormous walnut-tree overshadows 
the ruins ; its origin, according to folk-lore, was supernatural 
indeed. The tree sprang from a walnut containing a diamond 
brought hither by the Prince of Darkness himself, from the 
shades below, and buried in the ground. At certain intervals it 
was said to bear a crop of diamonds, but of late years the tree 
appears to have given up this good habit. In the numerous 
superstitions of Chablais and Vaud, hidden jewels and buried 
gold and silver play a prominent part. The nobles, constantly 
at war with Berne and Geneva, alternately conquered and con¬ 
quering, would often find it a measure of prudence in such 
precarious times to conceal their treasure. Valuables dug up 
here from time to time prove this to have been their habit. At 
Evian no landed property is ever sold without some special 
stipulation as to reserved rights on possible treasure trove; and 
when, in building, excavations have to be made, a watch is 
always set on the workmen. 

The views across the lake from Evian are very fine. 

Passing on we see La Tour Ronde, and then the cliffs 


LAKE OF GENEVA. 


144 

of La Meillerie, famous for their supposed resemblance to 
the Leucadian rock. They afford excellent stone for buildinjr 
At one time they ran down straight to the sea, and Evian and 
S. Gingolph could only communicate by water. The rocks 
were blasted by Napoleon, to get material for the Simplon 
Road. 

It is in this portion of the lake, where the waters are least 
disturbed, that the fisheries are chiefly carried on. From hence 
come those fascinating little boats with double sails, like wings, 
that strike every traveller who sees them poised like butterflies 
on the surface. Here, in Rousseau’s story, the lover of Heloise 
lodged, to be in sight of her dwelling-place on the opposite 
shore. 

Six miles further on is St. Gingolph., the border village 
between Valais and Chablais, situated on both sides of a 
ravine that separates the two countries. For long, the only 
place of worship was on the Chablais side, so that people were 
in Switzerland at home, and in Savoy when they went to 
church. 

Excursions from St. Gingolph are made to the Dent 
d’ Oche (8000 feet), in four hours j up the Gorge of the 
Morge, the frontier ravine just alluded to ; or by boat to the 
Grotto of Viviers. Boats can be hired to cross the lake for ten 
francs to Clarens, Montreux, Chillon, or Villeneuve, or for six 
francs to Vevey. Three miles beyond St. Gingolph is Bou- 
veret, at the head of the lake. 

Besides the swift Rhone, cleaving his way between 
heights which appear as lovers who have parted,” Lake Leman 
receives about forty rivers and streams. The depth of the lake 
varies from about 950 feet near the rocks of Meillerie, to 30 or 
40 feet in the neighbourhood of Geneva. It covers an extent 
of about ninety square miles. 

The marvellous beauty of this delightful lake has won 
encomiums from a host of writers. Mr. Laing says, The 
snowy peak, the waterfall, the glacier, are but the wonders of 
Switzerland her beauty is in her lakes—the blue eyes of this 
Alpine land. The most beautiful passage of scenery in Switzer¬ 
land is, to my mind, the upper end of the Lake of Geneva, 
from Vevey, or from Lausanne to Villeneuve.” Again, ‘Hhe 
margin of the lake is carved out, and built up into terrace above 
terrace of vineyards and Indian corn plots 5 behind this narrow 
belt, grain crops, orchards, grass fields, and chestnut trees have 


GENEVA TO CHAMOUNY. 

their zone; higher still upon the hill side, pasture grass and 
forest trees occupy the ground; above rises a dense mass of 
pine forest, broken by peaks of bare rocks shooting up, weather¬ 
worn and white, through this dark-green mantle 3 and, last of 
all, the eternal snow piled up high against the deep blue sky 3 
and all this glory of Nature, this varied majesty of mountain- 
land, within one glance! ” It is not surprising that this 
water of Geneva has seen upon its banks,” he adds, “ the most 
powerful minds of each succeeding generation. Calvin, Knox, 
Voltaire, Gibbon, Rousseau, Madame de Stael, Byron, John 
Kemble, have, with all their essential diversities and degrees of 
intellectual powers, been united here in one common feeling of 
the magnificence of the scenery round it. This land of alp and 
lake is indeed a mountain-temple, reared for the human mind 
on the dull unvaried plains of Europe.” 

It is from Geneva and the lake—especially that celebrated 
view near Morges—that the traveller realizes the supremacy 
of Mont Blanc, more than he can do even at Chamouny, 
when in its immediate presence. No one should be content 
with the scenery at the Geneva end of the lake, which is com¬ 
paratively uninteresting. Its .grandeur is only fully perceived 
from Morges or Ouchy. 


GENEVA TO CHAMOUNY. 

(To Sallanches^2 mile^ to"ciiamouny," 5 o miles.) 

The journey from Geneva to Chamouny is along a good 
carriage-road. The diligences take 10 hours. From Sallanches 
(reached in 6 \ hours) the remainder of the journey may be 
performed on foot easily and pleasantly by good walkers. 

Early application at the office is desirable to ensure seats. 
The diligences of the Messageries Imperiales are arranged for 
affording the best views of the country, the after-part being open 3 
and there are also two seats in front. When places are taken, 
they must be described and entered in the register of the office, 
and on the pay-bills of the conductor. This prevents all 
grumbling and confusion, as parties can only take their allotted 
places. Diligences start from Geneva three or four times daily 3 
the exact time must be previously ascertained at the Hotel or 
Diligence Office (p. 124). 

A pleasant suburban road from the New Quarter of Geneva 
leads to the large village of On the right, Mont Saleve, 




GENEVA TO CHAMOUNY. 


146 

the Castle of Mornex, and the [ura mountains are seen ; and on 
the left the Voirons. At the river J^oronTthe French (formerly 
Savoyard) territory is reached, the first village in which is Anne- 
masse (Custom House), The high conical mountain called th e 
Mole (6128 ft.), here comes fairlymifoTiew, afidTdrms a promi¬ 
nent object for miles. The Castle of Etrambiere is passed on 
the'nghtTat the foot of the Petit Saleve. The road follows the 
valley of the Arve. This stream, as the banks abundantly 
testify, is sometimes a broad and furious torrent. The Menoge 
river is crossed by a broad lofty bridge. After passing Naii^V, 
the Cha teau d e Pierre, the property of an Englishman, is seen 
on a small fir^adnsfmnence. Contamines is, passed on the 
left, and the two mmed towers of the ancient castle of Fancigny 
stand out conspicuously. The bold mountain scenery boun^d- 
ing the, Arve valley, now becomes very enjoyable. 

Bonneville is one of the most considerable towns on the 
road, though its population has much declined oflateyears. (From 
this place there is a good road—17 miles—traversed by diligence in 
4 hours to Annecy, where the rail can be taken to Aix-les-Eaux.) 
At the foot of the town, the Arve is crossed by a stone bridge j 
and on the river side, close by, is a monument over nirrety feet 
in heiglU, erected in honour of Rex Carolus Felix of SardmTa, 
as an expression of gratitude for favours conferred on the town 
by the execution of works to prevent inundations of the Arve. 
To the summit of the Brezon or the Mole is a four hours’ 
excursion from Bonneville. 

Through a fertile district between the Mole and Brezon, we 
pass on to Vougy, where the Giffre, from the Sixt Valley, 
joins the Arve, and then to SciQnzier, by which lies the 
romantic Reposoir Valley. 

The village of Cluses, newly built since the fire of 1844, 
is chiefly inhabite'd by watchmakers. Near this town, the 
Brezon precipices seem almost to overshadow the route, and the 
fertile valley seems to be closed in by the mountain. But the 
road is continued through a narrow gorge. Beyond La Balme, 
two small cannons are planted, for the purpose of awakening 
the echoes. The entrance to a gro tto is seen on the si de of the 
rock to the left, which penetrates irifo'theTleaH oTThemountain 
to the e'xfenT'of'T'Sob'feeti Mules wait here to take visitors to 
the cavern. A couple of hours will be occupied if the visit is 
undertaken. Passing Magland and on to St. Martin, 
several fine cascades and waterfalls attract attention on the left; 
the finest of these is the graceful Nant d’Arpenaz, dreadfully 









GENEVA TO CHAMOUNY. 


H 7 

beset, however, with specimen dealers, cannon firers, and various 
sorts of beggars. The rocks on the same side of the road are 
exceedingly fine, and the low flat on the rl^t sKoXV s i gns of the 
effects of the overflow of the Arve, to which the country is 
subject. At SallancllGSj the diligence used to terminate its 
course, and passengers were transferred to small carriages, 
because of the hilly and stony roads before them. Now there 
is a new good road all the way, but it is not so interesting as 
the old. The diligence used to come into Sallanches mile) 
to allow the passengers to dine and return to St. Martin to 
pursue the journey. From the bridge between the two towns, 
fine views of Mont Blanc are obtained. A well-known writer 
has thus described the scene :— 

Mont Blanc, and his army of white-robed brethren, rose 
before us in the distance, glorious as the four-and-twenty elders 
around-the great white throne. The wonderful gradations of 
colouring in Alpine landscape are not among the least of its 
charms. How can I describe it? Imagine yourself standing 
with me on this projecting rock, overlooking a deep piny gorge, 
through which flow the brawling waters of the Arve. On the 
other side of this rise mountains whose heaving swells of 
velvet-green cliffs and dark pines are fully made out and 
coloured ; behind this mountain rises another, whose tints are 
softened and shaded, and seem to be seen through a purplish 
veil j behind that rises another, of a decided cloud-like purple ; 
and in the next still the purple tint changes to rosy lilac ; while 
above all, like another world up in the sky, mingling its tints 
with the passing clouds, sometimes obscured by them, and then 
breaking out between them, lie the glacier regions. These 
glaciers, in the setting sun, look like rivers of light pouring down 
from the clouds. Such was the scene, which I remember with 
perfect distinctness as enchanting my attention on one point of 
the road.” 

Sallanches, like most of the towns on the route now under 
notice, has had its conflagration. It was on Good Friday, 1840, 
when everybody was at church, that the fire broke out. 

The road from Sallanches and St. Martin, still recommended 
to pedestrians, continues along the picturesque banks of the 
Arve. Cliede is passed, near which is a fine waterfall. The 
road then crosses a plain, which was a lake till choked up by 
mud and stones in 1837, ServOZ is next reached. Les 
Ouches is the first village in the valley of Chamouny. 

The new road is on the left bank of the Arve ^ it crosses 







GENEVA TO CHAMOUNY. 


the Bon-Nant, and passes the Baths Of -St—G,ery^:3^(5 
miles). They are situated in the lovely Bon-Nant ravine, and 
seem efficacious for numerous disorders of the stomach, nerves, 
skin, etc. The village of St. Gervaix is a mile from the baths. 
Excursions to the eastern part of Mont Blanc, or the ascent of 
the great mountain itself, can be arranged from this place. 
There is a cross route, 5 hours’ walk, by the Col de Voza, with 
grand views of Mont Blanc, etc., to Chamouny. 

The Tete Noire (not the Tete Noire leading to Martigny) 
is then skirted, and, after passing the Tunnel of Chatelard and 
Le Lac, the old road is reached at the HbTet des Montet'sT” 

CH^OUNY 

(Hotel de I’Angleterre and Hotel Royal) 

is situated in a valley, about 28 miles in length from the 
Col de Balme in the N.E., to the Col de Voza in the S.W. 
Its north-western boundary is formed by the Aiguilles Rouges 
and the Brevent ; whilst on the south-eastern side, Mont Blanc, 
with seven glaciers streaming down towards the valley, form its 
crowning glory. Along the entire length of the, valley flows 
the Arve, with a multitude of mountain-born rivulets flowing 
into it. 

Chamouny is 3446 ft. above the sea. Its permanent popu¬ 
lation is small, but in the season it is a crowded resort of 
tourists, for whom the district offers attractions and excursions 
innumerable. Chamouny was long an almost unknown spot. 
The monks of St. Benedict came and settled herein the eleventh 
century, and its occasional notice or inspection by Bishops and 
Counts of Geneva is historically proved 5 but it was not till 
Pococke and Wyndham visited the valley in 1741, and reported 
on it to the Royal Society of London, that the locality began to 
be generally known. From that time the fame of the valley 
has spread, and the tide of eager sightseers has increased, till 
now in every land Chamouny is justly celebrated for its glorious 
prospect of the “ Monarch of Mountains ” and its surroundings, 
and for the absorbing interest of the excursions that may be 
undertaken in the neighbourhood. 

Applications for the services of any of the 200 intelligent 
and efficient guides of Chamouny must be made at the office 
of the Guide en Chef. There is an official tariff and a code of 
rules as to the engagement of guides, mules, etc., which must 
be strictly carried out. 


CHAMOUNY. 


149 

There is an English Church at Chamouny, where 
services are celebrated during the season. 

Loppe’s collection of Alpine Pictures is worth seeing. 
The collection is at the back of the Royal Hotel. 

The following itinerary may be useful to the traveller :— 

To visit Montanvert, the Mer de Glace, the Chapeau, and 
the source of the Arveiron, is an excursion at leasf^S or 7 
hours 5 or a day may be well spent over it. 

To the B re vent and back, 7 to 8 hours. 

To the Glacier des Bossons and back, about 4 hours. 

To the Fl egere an d back, 5 hours. 

To the /ardm and back, 10 to 12 hours. A good day’s 
work. 

We will note a few of the principal excursions, and the 
tourist must combine or select from these according to the time, 
at his disposal. 

Montanvert (6302 ft. above the sea level, or 28^8 ft. 
above Chamouny) ne eds no guide; anybody will point out the 
path 3 and when onceToun^ThoBody need lose it. The ascent 
can easily be done in two hours. On the way, a pine forest, 
debris of avalanches, and other scenes usual in mountain paths, 
will be passed, and by-and-by you will stand face to face with 
the 

Mer_de Glace. ^Hmaginethe ocean to have overflowed 
the mountains in front of you, and to have descended, boiling, 
foaming, dashing, bubbling, into the valley, thousands of feet 
below. Imagine the waters in the height of their wild and 
furious descent to have been miraculously stopped by the Divine 
fiat, ^ Be still,’ and you see before you thousands of sharp and 
tapering billows, mountain waves arisen and petrified before 
they burst, snow-crested heights and chasms of the deep. Such 
is the Mer de Glace. And then imagine the surroundings. 
To your right, as you look up, are green, precipitous banks, 
covered with shrubs and plants, and beyond rises Mont Blanc, 
approached by walls of barren rock, where the snow can find 
no settling-place. In front and to your left rises a barrier of 
rocks, and mountains, and peaks that make you cold and dizzy 
to gaze upon. There is the Aiguille du^Uru^ shooting, up alone, 
lik^ an arrow, 6000 feet above the spot on which you stand. 
There are the dark, awful masses of vertical granite, on which 
no blade of grass will grow, no bird will rest, no snow will 
cleave, standing like evil spirits brooding over the haunts of 
death. Then -magine the sounds, which give tone to these 




CHAM 0 UN 7 . 


150 

scenes. There is a crash and a tumble, and thunder is echoing 
all around, and a thousand weird voices seem chuckling at some 
sad disaster. It is an avalanche that has fallen in the distance! 
Listen again. You hear the moan and the strain of glaciers 
grinding each other to powder in a deadly strife. Again, and 
you hear the war and tumult of cataracts and torrents rushing 
madly into the hollow vaults, and delighting to startle their 
awful stillness! ” 

Nearly 300 feet above the edge of this sea of ice is an inn, 
where the night can be spent by those wishing to go forward 
from this point in the morning. A rude hut once stood here, 
where Forbes and Tyndal studied glacial phenomena. The 
Pierre des Anglais,” commemorating the visit of Pococke and 
Wyndham, is close by. 

Everybody should cross the Mer de Glace j it is easy for 
ladies, or even children, but should not be attempted without a 
guide, as the steps cut in the ice may easily be missed, and the 
traveller would as easily get astray and nervous. If intending to 
return direct from Montanvert to Chamouny, the visitor should 
first take a walk by the side of the glacier for some distance, 
and so get a better idea of the wondrous scene. 

The descent from Mo ntanver t, after crossing the Mer de 
Glace, is by the M auvais ^PasT cut in the side of the rocks, 
which once was a formidable journey, but is now bereft of its 
horrors from having an iron rail along it, to which the traveller 
can hold, instead of having to take his chance upon the bare 
rock-ledge. The green mound called the 

C liapea u., where some glorious views are obtained over 
the Glacier des Bois, is next reached. Here there is a grotto 
and an inn. Descending by the moraine, the visitor soon reaches 
The Source of the Arveiron. The stream issues 
from the Glacier des Bois, and passes through an arch of ice. 
Sometimes this spot is very beautiful, and at others it has little 
or no interest, and does not repay the trouble of leaving the 
direct path to view it. In any .ca$e it^ is dangerous to stand 
under the ice arch, and instances are'^ecorded in which fatal 
results have happened. 

N.B.—Whatever else the traveller may omit, the round just 
described, occupying about 7 hours, ought to be taken. Either 
the Chapeau or the Source of the Arveiron, or both, may, of 
course, be visited direct from Chamouny, without crossing the 
Mer de Glace, if wished. 

To visit Tlie Jardin is a good day’s work from Cha- 



MONT BLANC. 


I5I 

mouny, even by taking a mule to and from Montanvert. 
From the inn at this place, where it is best to pass the previous 
night, it is a seven hours’ expedition, and the descent to Cha- 
mouny may be effected in less than two hours more. This is 
a very fine glacier excursion. Guides are required, but ladies 
may readily undertake this expedition, and an idea will be 
obtained of the glorious rock and glacier solitudes of Mont 
Blanc, which no shorter excursion will afford. The Jardin 
itself is an island of about seven acres, a grassy, flower-sprinkled 
oasis of beauty in the midst of eternal snows and aiguilles. 

The F l^^ere. a plateau on the side of the Aiguilles Rouge, 
(6500 ft.) IS ascende d for its fine view of M ont Bla nc. This 
excursion can be entirely accomplished"brf mul^, about five 
hours being required for going and returning. There is a 
chalet where refreshment, or, if required, beds can be obtained. 

The Brevent (8000 ft.) presents an almost identical 
view towards the south-east with that from the Flegere. It 
takes about four hours to walk up and somewhat less to 
descend. Many visitors only go up as far as the inn at Plan 
Praz (3 miles) which can be reached with mules. Here there 
is a terrace 6772 feet above the sea, connected by a mountain 
path (3 miles) with the Flegere. An hour’s walking brings 
you to the foot of La Cheminee, where some fifty feet of nearly 
vertical climbing must be done. There is a longer way round 
for ladies. The view from the summit (8283 ft.) is a glorious 
panorama of the Mont Blanc chain, and the hamlet-studded 
valley of Chamouny from the Col de Balme to the Col de 
Voza. 

The Cascade du Dard, the Glacier des Bossons, 
the Pavilion de Pierre Pointue, and many other attrac¬ 
tions, can be visited by those who can make a lengthened sojourn 
at Chamouny. Those not intending to return by Martigny 
should, if possible, spend a day in exploring the Col de 
Balme and Tete Noire; a mule path connects the two 
(p. 158). Those wishing to get a slight notion of the ascent 
of Mont Blanc, without encountering the dangerous portions, 
may ascend to the Grand Millets, and spend a night at the 
inn. 

MONT BLANC. 

To realize in some degree the height of this wonderful 
mountain, compare the following heights of certain mountains 
in Europe. 





152 


CHAMOUNY. 


Malvern Hills ..... 

L 444 

ft. 

Skiddaw ...... 

3,022 


Macgillicuddy Reeks .... 

3^404 


Snowdon* ...... 

3 , 57 ^ 

ft 

Vesuvius ...... 

3.731 


Cairngorm ...... 

4.050 

>* 

Ben Nevis ...... 

4.380 

» 

Grand St. Bernard (Convent) 

8,040 

» 

Peak of Teneriffe .... 

12.358 

it 

JungPau. 

13.725 

>1 

Monte Rosa ..... 

15.540 

it 

Mont Blanc ..... 

15.781 

ti 


It is curious how much higher Mont Blanc appears from 
the Flegere than it does from the valley of Chamoutry, but 
even there the actual peak of Mont Blanc does not so impress 
the spectator with the glory and majesty of nature, as do the 
marvellous peaks around it, varying from 12,000 to 13,000 
feet. 

The group of mountains known as Mont Blanc is an im¬ 
mense mass of rock,stretching about 13 miles from S. W. to N.E., 
and about 5 or 6 miles in breadth. The enclosing valleys vary 
from 3000 to 4000 feet above the sea level. The whole of this 
mountain mass rises to at least a thousand feet above the line 
of perpetual snow. Innumerable aiguilles or peaks shoot up 
from this vast basis, of varying heights, surrounding the mighty 
monarch himself, who towers to a height of more than 12,000 
feet above the level of Chamouny. 

The scenery of Mont Blanc is a wonderfu l com bination of 
Alpine glories on the gjrandest scale. Lofty peaks, for ev^ 
robed in untrodden snow, wide seas of ice, huge crevasses, 
bright green glaciers, savage rocks, and pine forests (skirting 
the borders of civilization) make up a tout ensemble truly mar¬ 
vellous and impressive. 

Dr. Paccard and the guide, James Balmat, were the first to 
scale Mont Blanc in August, 1786. The celebrated philosopher, 
Saussure made the ascent in the following year with several 
assistants, and numerous scientific observations were made on 
the summit. Since that date, the ascent has become increas¬ 
ingly frequent j and guides and all necessary appliances are to 
be found either at Chamouny or St. Gervais, for those who 
feel physically qualified for the undertaking, and are willing to 
meet the somewhat expensive outlay required. 






TOUR OF MONT BLANC. 


^53 

The Ascent of Mont Blanc occupies from 17 to 22 hours, 
and the descent about 8 hours. This does not include 
stoppages. About forty times a year the ascent is accom¬ 
plished 5 favourable weather is necessary, and the advice of the 
guides must be strictly adhered to. It is usual to go on mules 
to the Chalet de la Pierre Pointue, and then forward to 
the Grands Mulets (10,007 ft.) to spend the night; the 
ascent to the summit (15,781 ft.) and return to the Grands 
Mulets occupies the second day, and the return to Chamouny 
the third. The Grands Mulets route unites on the Grand 
Plateau with the route from St. Gervais. Visitors coming 
from the latter place spend the night at a hut on the Aiguille 
du Gouter. The view from the summit is far reaching but 
indistinct. 

The chief peaks of importance in the Mont Blanc group, 
after the summit are the Grandes Jorasses, 13,800 ; Aiguille 
Verte, 13,540 ; Aiguille de Bionnassay, 13,324; Les Droites, 

3 Aiguille de Trelatete, 12,900; Aiguille d’Argentiere, 
12,799; Mont Dolent, 12,566. 

TOUR OF MONT BLANC. 

(By Chamouny, Courmayeur, Aosta, and the Great St. 

Bernard.) 

Martigny to Chamouny (see p. 157). 

Leaving Chamouny by the road, and passing the Glacier 
des Bossons on the left, the traveller reaches the small, pret¬ 
tily situated village of Les Ouches. Here the mule path is 
taken leading to the Pavilion de Belle Vue above the Col 
de Voza. The views of the Chamouny valley from this 
point are very fine. Hence the path may betaken by Bionnassay 
to the high road at Bionnay, but it is nearer to keep by Champel, 
joining the high road at La Villette. This part of the route is 
very charming, as the valley of Bionnassay is beautifully wooded, 
and surrounded by mountains of every form and colour. Two 
miles along the high road from La Villette brings the traveller 
to Les Contamines, 18 miles from Chamouny. Here the 
night is usually spent. 

From Contamines, Mont Joli can be ascended in four or 
five hours, and afibrds good views. Leaving the village to 
resume the route, the visitor reaches the pilgrim-visited Church 
of Notre Dame de la Gorge. Here the road terminates, and the 
path leads through a rocky, pine-clad defile, and crosses the 


TOUR OF MONT BLANC. 


354 

mountain torrent near the waterfall, emerging on an elevated 
plain. Nant Borrant (4^60 ft.) is next reached, and then 
the Chalet de la Balme (an inn). Crossing the Plaine 
des Dames, where a conical heap of stones is said to be the 
memorial of a lady who perished here in a snowstorm, the path 
winds up to the Col du Bonhomme. 

Hence the traveller may descend by the Col des Fours 
to Mottet, or to the Alpine village of Chapiu. 

From Chapiu, the visitor may proceed to Pre St. Didier by 
the Little St. Bernard. In bad or doubtful weather this should 
be preferred to going forward by the Col de la Seigne. 

At Chapiu (36 miles from Geneva) the night is usually 
passed. The route to the Col de la Seigne is through 
Mottet. From the summit of the Col de la Seigne are obtained 
glorious views of the Mont Blanc precipices towering over 
11,000 feet above the grandly elevated valley known as the 
Allee Blanche. 

From the Col to Courmayeur is a six hours’ walk, a mingling 
of snow and rock and pasture land. The Lac de Combal, the 
Glacier de Miage, the majestic Glacier de Brenva with its huge 
Moraine, the Chapelle du Glacier (with its hermit), and the 
Baths of La Saxe are passed on the way. 

[With guides from Contamines, Courmayeur may be reached 
in one day by ascending direct from the former place to the 
Pavilion of Trelatete, traversing for some distance the Glacier 
of Trelatete (don’t omit the rope, even if guides smile at 
it), and then crossing the Col du Bonhomme (9204 ft.), 
higher up than previously indicated. The Glacier de Lancettes 
must then be crossed, and thus the Col de la Seigne reached 
without passing through Chapiu and Mottet.] 

Courmayeur (56 miles from Chamouny), at an altitude 
of 4211 ft. above the sea, is in the summer a well visited little 
Piedmontese watering place. Excursions can be made to the 
Glacier de Brenva, to the Glacier de Miage, or to the 
Cramont (9081 ft. above the sea), with fine scenery on the 
route, and glorious views of Mont Blanc from the summit. 
From the Mont de Saxe (7329 ft.) some good views are 
obtained. 

From Courmayeur tne traveller may reach Martigny by 
the Col de Ferret, 38 miles, or to Aosta, 27 miles j and from 
thence to Martigny by the Great St. Bernard, 47 miles. There 
is also a less interesting route by the Col de la Serena (7389 ft.) 
to St. Remy and the Great St. Bernard. 


TOUR OF MONT BLANC. 


155 

The first of these routes, viz., Courmayeur to Martigny by 
the Col de Ferret, will take nearly fifteen hours’ walking. 
The Val de Ferret is a prolongation of the Allee Blanche ; nume¬ 
rous glaciers and huge mountain masses bound the valley. The 
Col is 81 y6 ft., and forms the boundary between France, Italy, 
and Switzerland j the view of Mont Pete ret and other mighty 
buttresses of Mont Blanc is very grand. The descent is by the 
chalets of La Foliaz, Orsieres, and Sembranclier to Martigny. 

From Courmayeur to Aosta is a very attractive and interest¬ 
ing journey. It can be traversed by diligence in five hours. 
The first village of importance is Pre St. Didier, on the 
Doire. 

From Pre St. Didier the traveller may visit the Little St. 
Bernard, where is a column indicating the boundary between 
France and Italy. Here there are very imposing views of the 
Mont Blanc chain. Hence, passing a hospice similar to the 
Great St. Bernard, a gradual descent brings to the Bourg St. 
Maurice, from whence there is a diligence to Chamousset 
on the Mont Cenis Railway. 

The route to Aosta, after leaving Pre St.* Didier, is by 
Morgex, where the Col de la Serena route to the Great St. Ber¬ 
nard branches off. The ruined castle of Chatelard and village 
of La Salle ^re passed. Along a steep road above the foaming 
waters of the Doire, the route lies by Avise, with its old tower, 
and Liverogne, to Arvier, noted for its good wine, and possess¬ 
ing a thirteenth century castle. Villeneuve is next reached, 
the most picturesque portion of the valley, with the ruined 
Chateau d’Argent overlooking the village. After passing one or 
two chateaux, the Castle of Aosta is seen at the mouth of the 
Val de Cogne. 

Aosta, with a population of about 8000, is a beautifully 
situated town of importance. The valley produces various 
metals from its mines, marble from its quarries, and timber in 
abundance from its vast pine forests. The town was anciently 
named Augusta Praetoria Salassorum, after Augustus, who gar¬ 
risoned it with 3000 Praetorian Guards. Amongst the Roman 
remains still left are the town walls and towers, a fine 
triumphal arch, the ruins of a basilica, a gateway, etc. The 
cathedral has a curious portal, and some frescoes, mosaic work, 
etc. 

From Aosta to Ivrea (where the rail can be taken for Turin) 
is 42 miles, traversed by diligence in nine hours, passing Cha- 
tillon, Bard (with the fortress that nearly spoilt Napoleon’s 
grand march in 1800), Douna, St. Martin, and Setteino Vittore. 


1^5 AOSTA TO MARTIGNY. 

AOSTA TO MARTIGNY BY THE GREAT ST, 

BERNARD. 

This route is amongst picturesque and fertile scenery, by 
Signaye to the defile of Gignod. Here the southern aspect of the 
scenery diminishes. After passing Etroubles and St. Oyen, 
cultivation begins to get very scarce, and St. Remy is reached, 
the last Italian village. From St. Remy, about a two hours’ walk 
will bring the visitor to the noted Hospice of St. Bernard, 
passing a small lake that is frozen nine months of the year, and 
a column marking the boundary between Italy and Switzerland. 
The celebrated liospice is a stone edifice on the crest of the 
pass, the highest winter habitation in Europe. The mean 
temperature for the summer is 48 deg. 3 for the winter, 15 deg. 
The institution is said to owe its origin to St. Bernard of Men- 
thon in 962. Across the pass armies have several times marched. 
It was used by the Romans a hundred years before the Christian 
era; and in the fearful struggles that closed last century several 
hundred thousand soldiers, French and Austrian, passed through 
these sterile scenes. 

The approach to St. Bernard suggested Longfellow’s noble 
poem Excelsior.” We welcome another pen to describe the 
scenery here. “ What a bewildering, what a sudden change ! 
Nothing but savage, awful precipices of naked granite, snowy 
fields, and verdureless wastes ! In every other place of the Alps 
we have looked upon the snow in the remote distance, to be 
dazzled with its shining effulgence—ourselves, meanwhile, in 
the region of verdure and warmth. Here we march through a 
horrid desert—not a leaf, not a blade of grass—over the deep 
drifts of snow. And this is the road that Hannibal trod, and 
Charlemagne, and Napoleon ! They were fit conquerors of 
Rome, who could vanquish the sterner despotism of eternal 
winter.” 

It is usual to stay the night in the hospice (8131 ft.) ; no 
charge is made, but of course no one would avail himself of the 
accommodation without contributing liberally to the institution. 
Everybody has heard of the noble work accomplished by the 
devoted monks and their faithful dogs in rescuing from death 
in the snow those who would otherwise perish. A piano in 
the room set apart for visitors was presented by the Prince of 
Wales. 

The Morgue will be seen with interest by those who 
indulge in visiting chambers of horrors. (This brief account of 


CHAMOUNY TO MARTIGNY. i --r 

the world-famed hospice is deemed sufficient, as the Brethren 
on the Mount take an interest in giving all particulars of the 
place.) 

From the Great St. Bernard to Martigny is through the 
desolate Vallee des Morts, and across the Dranse, and past the 
old Morgue, to the elevated pasture called the Plan de Proz. 
Here the traveller reaches the carriage road at the solitary inn 
known as the Gantine de Proz. 

Mont Velan (12,057 ft.), seen to the east of St. Bernard, can 
be ascended from this point. 

From the Gantine the new rock-hewn road leads, through 
defile and forest, to Bourg St. Pierre, where there is an old 
nth century church. Liddes, Orsieres, with its ancient 
tower, Sembrancher, with its ruined castles, and some other 
small places, are passed, and then Martigny is reached. From 
the hospice, 29 miles. A coach runs between Martigny and 
Bourg St. Pierre. 


CHAMOUNYJO-MARXIGHY BY THE TETE 

NQIRE^ 

(23 miles. Time, about 9 hours.) 

There are three routes connecting the Rhone Valley with 
the Valley of Chamouny—i. Martigny to Chamouny by the 
Tete Noire 2. Vernayaz to Chamouny by Triquent, Salvan, 
etc. (see p. I2i)j 3. Martigny to Chamouny by the Col de 
Balme. 

Except for its one grand, incomparable view of Mont Blanc 
and the Valley of Chamouny (see p. i^9), the Col de Balme 
route is unequal to the other two in general interest. 

Leavi ng C hamouny for the Tete Noire rout^^ the Arve is 
soon crosseoneal^the villagA of Les Praz. TK^ source of the 
Arveiron (see p. 150), in the Glacier des Bois, is left on the right, 
and then, passing over by Les Tines, Lavancher, La Joux (on 
the opposite bank), Les lies, and Grasonet, Argentiere is 
reached, 2i miles from Chamouny. 

At Argentiere the grand glacier of the same name is seen 
stretchii^ dpwn t o w'aWs The Valley," with the Aiguille du Char- 
donhet,T2.5oo feet high, on one side, and the Aiguille Verte, a 
thousand feet higher still, on the other. 

Here the route by Tour and the Col de Balme diverges to 
the right (p. 159.) 



CHAMOUNY TO MARTIGNY. 


158 

The path to the left passes through the savage glen of Les, 
Montets, and by the village of Trelechamp to the Col des 
Montets, at a height of 4819 feet. A cross shows the highest 
point. * -Trom the Col the path leads on amidst frequent traces 
of glacier and avalanche, and varied combinations of rock and 
snow, and wood and water, past Poyaz, with its romantic water¬ 
fall (i franc), and then beside the Eau Noire to Valorcine. 

This village of chalets, with a population under 700, is the 
largest in the valley. It has walls to keep off its natural 
enemies” the avalanches. 

From Valorcine, past the fine waterfaU of the Barberine 
(i franc), near its junction with the Eau Noire, and amount 
scenery increasingly grand, the Hotel Barberine is reached, and 
soon afterwards the Hotel Royal du Chatelard. 

Here the route by Triquent and Salvan to Vernayaz diverges 
(see p. 122). 

Discarding the old Mauvais Pas on the left, the route to 
Martigny lea& through the rocks of the Tete Noire. The 
highest point of tKe xete Noire is some distance to the south of 
the pass, being 6600 feet above the sea level. The Hotel near 
the pass is over 4000 feet above the sea level. The Bel-Oiseau, 
Dent de Morcles, and Grand Moveran, are conspicuous peaks 
in the vicinity. There is a path from the hotel by which the 
grand view from the Col de Balme may be combined with the 
journey by the Tete Noire route. 

The general character of the scenery in this portion of the 
excursion is well described in the following extract from’*^^ Swiss 
Pictures — 

‘‘ Mountains lofty, and precipitous, black, jagged rocks, roar- 
' ing torrents, dark, gloomy ravines, solemn pine-woods, between^ 
whose columnar trunks the path winds as through the aisles of 
a vast cathedral 5 yet, withal, an exhaustless abund^Cfi^of-jex;:^ 
quisitely-tinted flowers, delio^tejerns, slopes on which the wild 
,' strawberry blushes, and hidesoeneath the rich green leaves, and 
i on all sides a profusion of verdure, which softens down the 
' ruggedness of the mountain forms, yet leaves their grandeur 

/ undiminished.Here are vast heights above, and vast depths 

I below, villages hanging to the mountain sides, green pasturages, 

7 winding paths, chalets dotting the slopes, lovely meadows 
) enamelled with flowers, dark, immeasurable ravines, colossal, 

^ overhanging walls and bastions of rock, snow-peaks rising into 
the heavens over all.” 

Leaving the Hotel de la Tete Noire, the Forest of Trient is 





CHAMOUNY TO MARTIGNY. 


159 

entered, with the riyejLnf the samename.da&bing^^onward below 
to join the Eau Noire. At the village of Trient (Hotel dii 
Glacier de Trient) the Col de Balme route isTeached. 

From Trient the road ascends to the Gol de la Forclaz, 
or Col de Trient (5020 feet). In descendrhg towards Mar- 
tigny, the Valley of the Rhone as far as Sion is seen spread out 
like a beautiful picture. The scene is described by one traveller 
as “ one of thn^p flat valleys^ green as a velvet carpet, 

studded with jbuildings and villages that look iFke dots in tEe 
distance, and embraced on all sides by magnificent mountains, 
of which those nearest in the prospect were distinctly made out, 
with their rocks, pine-trees, and foliage. The next in the re¬ 
ceding distance were fainter, and of a purplish green; the 
next of a vivid purple ; the next lilac j while far in the fading 
view the crystal summits and glaciers of the Oberland Alps 

rose like an exhalation.The Simplon road could be seen 

dividing the valley like an arrow.” 

Still descending amongst forests and pastures, and orchards 
rich with fruit, the traveller soon reaches Martigny-le-bourg, and 
then' Martigny (see p. 122). 

FROM CHAMOUNY TO MARTIGNY BY THE 

COL DE BALME. 

As far as Argentiere, and from Trient forward, this route is 
identical with the last (p. 157). At Argentiere leave the Tete 
Noire route, and proceed to La Tour (Hotel du Rivage), where 
the carriage-road terminates. Leaving Tour, and its beautiful 
glacier, and passing the landmark known as the Homme de 
Pierre, and still ascending beside the rushing Arve, the inn is 
reached on the Gol de Balme. Hence there is a grand pro¬ 
spect of the Mont Blanc range, with aiguilles, glaciers, etc. 
Opposite to them are seen the Aiguilles Rouges, Brevent, etc. 
Turning in the direction of Martigny are seen the mountains of 
Valais and the Bernese Oberland. 

From the Col the path leads over sloping pastures, then 
through the Forest of Magnin, much injured by avalanches, and 
then through more meadows to Trient, where the Tete Noire 
route is again joined. 

There is a fine mountain footpath connecting the Col de 
Balme with the Tete Noire, which affords a delightful walk in 
clear weather (p. 158). 








i6o 


MARTIGNY TO ZERMATT. 


MARTIGNY TO ZERMATT. 

By railway to Sierre. Diligence thence to Visp (p. 77). 

At Visp horses can be hired for the first nine miles up the 
Visp Thai to St. Niklaus. From that place there is a carriage- 
road (13 miles) to Zermatt. 

The whole distance can be easily managed in ten to twelve 
hours by those who can shoulder their knapsacks, and march on, 
independent of all conveyances. 

The route lies now on one side and now on the other of the 
river Visp, rushing along a richly-wooded mountain gorge. All 
the way to Zermatt, peaks and glaciers, rocks, and torrents, and 
waterfalls, in varying combinations, make the journey a very 
attractive one. It is year by year becoming increasingly popu¬ 
lar. The inhabitants of this lovely valley are, however, a 
poverty-stricken and dirty race, very much afflicted with goitre. 

The path leads at first along the right bank of the Visp, 
between hills clad with flowers, and shrubs, and trellised vines. 
At Neubriicke the river is crossed, and the left bank pursued 
to Stalden (5 miles). Fine views abound here. The town 
is prettily situated at the junction of the Gorner Visp and Saaser 
Visp, both being streams from the glaciers of Monte Rosa. 
The bold dividing ridge between the two valleys consists of the 
Mischabelhorn, Balferinhorn, etc. 

Leaving the Saas Thai on the left, the right bank of the 
Gorner Visp is followed into the Nicolai Thai. The Weiss- 
horn comes into view,.and the Jungbach, Riedbach, and other 
waterfalls, are passed. A forest path conducts to another bridge 
across the Visp, and shortly afterwards St. Niklaus is reached. 
St. Niklaus (Grand Hotel), charmingly situated on a gentle 
slope, 3819 feet above the sea level, is a good half-way resting- 
place for those who wish to break the journey. A night’s rest 
here is more likely to be healthful and refreshing than at Vis- 
pach or elsewhere in the malarious Rhone Valley, Numerous 
excursions and expeditions can be arranged from St. Niklaus by 
those who can spare time. There is in the village a church 
wfflose metallic steeple is seen for miles shining like silver. 
The Grand Hotel is commodious and comfortable. 

Leaving St. Niklaus by the carriage-road which begins here, 
the valley again narrows, and its mountain boundaries increase 
in size. Frequent waterfalls dash down from the western preci¬ 
pices ; the road crosses the Visp, passes by huge reminders of 
the 1855 earthquake, amongst woodlands and pastures, to Randa. 


ZERMATT. i5j 

Before reaching this spot, the Little Mont Cervin and Breithorn 
come into sight. 

Randa is nearly feet above the sea level. On the 

opposite side of the valley the Biesgletscher, an offshoot of 
the Weisshorngletscher, protrudes through a mountain gap j 
and from its precipitous mass a tributary torrent rushes to the 
Visp. Parts of this glacier have occasionally broken off, spread¬ 
ing terror and destruction around. An immense portion fell in 
1819, when 118 buildings in Randa were destroyed, and the 
snow and broken ice lay in some parts of the village several feet 
in depth. 

East of Randa is the Grabengletscher, under the Graben- 
horn, which is the highest peak of the Mischabelhbrner, being 
nearly 1^,000 feet. 

In about an hour from leaving Randa, Tasch. is reached. 
The route is still upward, till, on crossing a rocky ridge, the 
first view of the Matterhorn is obtained, stupendous and 
overwhelming in its isolated majesty. By the Spiessbriicke, and 
one or two other bridges, the road crosses and recrosses, till at 
length the defile opens, and the rich pastoral valley of Zermatt 
lies full in view. 

The quaint little village of Zermatt (pop., 4^0), overtopped 
by its hotels, is situated in the midst of woods and pastures, in 
a mountain-girdled valley, nearly 5^00 feet above the level of 
the sea. The valley and adjacent heights are rich in beautiful 
and varied wild flowers, interesting minerdl specimens, butter¬ 
flies, insects, etc. Three glaciers feed the torrent of the Visp 
as it rushes past the village j these are the Gorner from Monte 
Rosa, the Findelen from the Strahlhorn, and the Z’mutt from 
the Matterhorn. In the surrounding scenery the artist will find 
abundant subjects for his pencil. 

In the churchyard of Zermatt are the graves of Mr. Hadow, 
the Rev. Charles Hudson, and the guide, Michael Croz, who 
perished on the Matterhorn, in 18^5. The body of Lord 
Francis Douglas who fell with them, was never found. Its 
whereabouts remains'an awful secret of that mysterious moun¬ 
tain. 

The neighbourhood of Zermatt contains so much that is of 
absorbing interest, that a visit of a day or two only suffices for 
a glimpse at a few of the chief attractions. 


i 62 


ZERMATT. 


THE RIFFELBERG AND GORNER GRAT. 

This is undertaken by most visitors to Zermatt even if time 
allows of nothing else being attempted. The route is by the 
first bridge across the Visp beyond the village, past the little 
church of Winkelmatten, and then up a steep path through the 
pine woods. From the openings between the trees the foot of 
the Gorner Glacier is seen, and the fine waterfall of the Visp 
rushing out from its icy cradle. Passing the chalet on the 
Augstkummenmatt, the pine woods are left behind, some bare 
slopes of short grass are crossed, and two hours of good walk¬ 
ing from Zermatt brings the visitor to the broad terrace of the 
mountain upon which stands the Riffel Hotel (8000 ft.) 
This is truly a glorious spot. In front, separated only by the 
deep valley in which lie the Gorner and Furggen glacier, rises 
the majestic Matterhorn, a silent, solitary pinnacle of bare rock, 
5,000 feet from base to summit, enthroned upon a pedestal of 
snow and ice, which is itself 10,000 feet above the ocean level, 
standing aloof and seeming to frown defiance on its fellows 
which lie grouped on every side. It is well to behold this 
scene, if possible, when the rosy glow of sunrise pervades it 
with an intense liquid light, revealing its furrowed sides, its 
seams of snow, its overhanging brow, its ice-bound feet, its 
treacherous chasms, and its awful precipices, and yet softening 
its asperity into a loveliness that holds the gazer spell-bound. 

Two hours’ ascent from the Riffel Hotel, brings the visitor 
two thousand feet higher to the Gorner Grat. This is one 
of the very few spots in the Alps where one can obtain an eleva¬ 
tion of over 10,000 feet without the slightest semblance of a 
difficulty. The path is good and well-defined the whole way, 
and the panorama quite unsurpassed. It is remarkable from 
the fact that there is an unbroken range of magnificent snow 
peaks on every side. There is not a single break in the chain. 
It is an isolated, rocky peak that seems formed by nature to 
enable one to survey at leisure the marvellous scene around. 
The huge Gorner Glacier winds round its base at a dizzy depth 
below ; beyond are the snows of that glorious range beginning 
with Monte Rosa (which seems within a stone’s throw) and 
ending with the Matterhorn. Then the central range of the 
Pennine Alps with the stupendous summits of the Dent 
Blanche, the Gabelhorn, the Rothhorn, and the Weisshorn all 
linked together in one vast chain of snow and ice. Next, far 
away beyond the Rhone Valley, some distant peaks of the Ber- 


THE HORNLI. 


163 

nese Oberland; and again to the right, the group of the Mis- 
chabelhorner,, the Alphubel, the Strahlhorn, and the Stockhorn, 
which last brings us round again to the snows of the Cima 
di Jazi, and the Weisthor Pass, which flanks Monte Rosa on 
the east. Between these mighty peaks lie innumerable glaciers, 
notably the vast sea of ice formed of the Gorner, the Theodule, 
and the Furggen glaciers which lies like a map below j its 
moraines, its snow slopes, and its countless crevasses revealed 
at a single glance. 

F. B. Zincke, in his “ Month in Switzerland,” thus describes 
the scene from the Gorner Grat— 

“ Here you have what is said to be the flnest Alpine view in 
Europe. You are standing on a central eminence of rock in, 
as far as you can see, a surrounding world of ice and snow. 
On the left is the Cima di Jazi, which you are told commands 
a good view into Italy. Just before you, as you look across 
the glacier, which lies in a deep, broad ravine at your feet, rise 
the jagged summits of Monte Rosa with, at this season, much 
of the black rock shining through their caps and robes of snow. 
Next the Lyskamm, somewhat in the background ; then Cas¬ 
tor and Pollux, immaculate snow without protruding rock 3 
next the Breithorn, then the naked gneiss of the Matterhorn, 
a prince among peaks, too precipitous for snow to rest on in 
the late summer, looking like a Titanic Lycian tomb (such as 
you may see in the plates of ^ Fellowe’s Asia Minor’), placed on 
the top of a Titanic rectangular shaft of rock, five thousand 
feet high. Beyond, and completing the circle of the panorama, 
come the Dent Blanche, the Gabelhorn, the Rothhorn, the 
Weisshorn, over the valley of Zermatt, the Ober Rothhorn, and 
the Allaleinhorn, which brings your eye round again to the 
Cima di Jazi.’’ 

From the Gorner Grat the visitor may return by the 
Guggli, an eminence with a fine view, but less striking than 
that just described. Hence a path leading beside the Finde- 
len Glacier may be followed back to Zermatt. Or another path 
may be taken from the Guggli to the Riffel Hotel, and thence 
a descent effected to the foot of the Gorner Glacier, an inte¬ 
resting and charming spot where the glacial encroachment is 
very evident. 

THE HORNLI 

is the first great step in the ascent of the Matterhorn, and 
should be visited by all who desire a nearer view of the giant 


ZERMATT. 


164 

mountain without attempting to scale it. The route is to the 
right of the Gorner Glacier, and along the base of the Matter¬ 
horn to the mountain lake called the Schwarz-See, where there is 
a fine view of the Zermatt Valley and its surroundings. Horses 
can be ridden to this point. Another hour’s upward climb 
brings the traveller to the Hornli (9492 ft.). 

The /iew of the Matterhorn from this point is amazingly 
grand. The whole eastern face is close in front, and the trea¬ 
cherous northern face is also in view. Down those awful 
precipices the unfortunate victims of the first ascent fell a dis¬ 
tance of 4000 feet to the glacier which lies on the right. From 
one’s very feet stretches away the wonderful plateau of ice 
and snow constituting the Furggen and Theodule glaciers. 
The ridge on which one stands is a mere arete in parts, perpen¬ 
dicular on one side, and falling abruptly on the other, many 
thousand feet to the Zermatt Glacier and the pine woods at its 
foot. Over the ridge the wind sweeps with icy breath, and a 
scene of desolation is around. Rain, and sun, and frost have 
bared, and bleached, and riven the barren crags upon which one 
stands. One glance takes in the green pastures of Zermatt, 
5000 feet below ; turning, the visitor sees the topmost pinnacle 
of the Matterhorn, 5000 feet above. The ridge of Hornli 
affords a wild and wondrous scene of mingled awe and loveli¬ 
ness, which should be seen by all visitors to Zermatt possessing 
tolerably stout legs and lungs, but having no ambition to 
measure their strength with the High Alps. 

The return to Zermatt can be varied by descending to the 
foot of the Zermatt Glacier, and passing along the Zermatt 
Valley. Beautiful and interesting scenery will reward the 
extra exertion. 


THE CIMA Dl JAZI. 

This is a mountain of 13,000 ft. in height, which can be 
reached without danger or difficulty, in about 5 hours, from the 
Riffelberg. The view is very grand, including the Italian lakes, 
the Tyrol, the Pennine and Bernese Alps, etc. 

MONTE ROSA. 

The ascent of this mountain is arduous and difficult. It 
was first accomplished by Taugwald, in 1849. very vast¬ 

ness, or rather its concentrated massiveness, unbroken by peaks 
of proportionate size, makes it seem less lofty than it really is j 


ENVIRONS OF ZERMATT. 


165 

and its immediate union on either side with a range of sharper 
snowy summits approaching its own elevation tends still further 
to prevent a just appreciation of its true character at the first 
glance.” 

The five highest peaks of Monte Rosa are arrayed in a 
connected ridge some 2 miles in length, in north to south. This 
ridge is crossed at the centre by a ridge of lower summits run¬ 
ning east and west. At the point of union is the Signalkuppe, 
14,964 ft., the most conspicuous of the peaks from the Italian 
side. North of this is the Zumsteinspitze, 1^,004 ft. A little 
further north, and connected by a ridge frowning over one of the 
deepest and most awful of Alpine abysses, is the HocllSte- 
spitze j the true Monte Rosa, presenting from its summit a 
wondrous view of mountain peaks. The Hochstespitze, or 
Gornerhorn, is “ a sharp, rocky obelisk,” 1^,217 ft. in height. 
Still further north is the Nordende, 15,132 ft. 

South of the central point is the Parrotspitze, 14,577 ft., 
and four other peaks, ranging from 13,800 to 14,200 ft. 

The 

EXCURSIONS AND EXPEDITIONS 

r 

that can be made from Zermatt are too numerous to be fully 
detailed. Tourists who shrink from danger in any form, and 
even wish to avoid difficulty or over-exertion, will find no lack 
of charming and interesting walks to occupy a prolonged 
stay. For those possessing mountaineering ambition and the 
requisite physical qualifications, there are no end of peaks and 
passes. Many of these require more than ordinary experience 
and skill in Alpine adventure j and none will, of course, be 
undertaken without making proper inquiries and procuring 
good guides. We simply enumerate a few of these expe¬ 
ditions :— 

The Matterhorn, 14,889 ft., was first scaled, in 1865, by 
Mr. Whymper, the guide Taugwald, Lord Francis Douglas, 
Mr. Hadow, Rev. Chas. Hudson, and the guide Croz. The 
four latter lost their lives in commencing the descent. 

The Breithorn, 13,683 ft., is reached by crossing the 
snow from the Col on the S. Theodule route (p. 169). 

The Triftjoch Pass, 11,614 ft., a gap between the Gabel- 
horn and the Trifthorn, leading to the Val d’Anniviers. 

The Col de la Dent Blanche, a terrace, 11,400 ft. 
above the sea level 5 also a route to the Val d’Anniviers. 

The Weissthor Pass, 10,000 ft., to Macugnagna. 


ZERMATT TO VOGOGNA. 


166 

The Mettelhorn, 11,188 ft., with good guides, is one of 
the less difficult ascents. No similar scene of ice and pre¬ 
cipitous mountain can be witnessed with equal ease on any 
known mountain. 

The Lyskamm, 14,889 ft., was once considered the sum¬ 
mit of Monte Rosa. 

The Gabelhorn, 13,363 ft. 

The Weisshorn, 14,804 ft. 

The Mischabelhorn, 14,933 ft., the highest mountain 
entirely in Switzerland. 

The Adler Pass, 12,461 ft., and other passes to the Saas 
Valley. 

The Silber Pass, 14,040 ft. (passing nine of the Monte 
Rosa peaks), and other passes into Italy. 

In the inns of Zermatt will be seen the regular tariff of 
charges for guides, for the various excursions and expeditions 
in the vicinity. 

ZERMATT TO VOGOGNA ON THE SIMPLON. 

To effect this route without attempting any of the more 
difficult passes above-mentioned, the tourist must reti ace his 
steps to Stalden. From thence the path leads along the beau¬ 
tiful defile known as the Saas Thai. Glaciers look down from 
the gaps on the western side, and many a wayside cross tells of 
the avalanche that has brought death and desolation into the 
lovely valley. The tourist should turn from time to time to see 
the prospect down the valley, with the Bietschhorn closing the 
view. In four hours Saas is reached, the chief place in the 
valley—a good place to sojourn at, and becoming increasingly 
frequented. It stands on a beautiful green plain, with moun¬ 
tains all round. 

The contrast between Saas and Zermatt,” says Zincke, in 
his “ Month in Switzerland,” is very great. At Zermatt the 
valley ends with great emphasis in a grand amphitheatre of 
mountains and snowy peaks. At Saas it seems suddenly brought 
to a close, without any object of interest to look upon. With 
the mind full of Zermatt, Saas appears but a lame and impo¬ 
tent conclusion. The village, however, is very far indeed from 
being at the head of the valley. That is to be found at the 
Monte Moro, 3 hours farther on ; and as it includes the Allalein 
Glacier, the grand scenery of the Mattmark See and of the Monte 
Moro itself, it has enough to satisfy even great expectations— 
such as one has, of course, coming from Zermatt.” 


ZERMATT TO VOGOGNA. 


167 

From Saas many mountain and glacier expeditions can be 
undertaken. Those whose time is limited may make a very 
enjoyable trip of about 3 hours to Fee, a charming little village^ 
in a lovely green hollow, headed by a vast glacier. By allowing.: 
half a day, the Gletsclier Alp, beyond Fee, may be reached^- 
This is a beautiful spot, bright with rich grass and flowers,,- 
almost encircled by the sea of ice. 

At Saas a guide for Macugnagna should be engaged. Post- 
chaises can be procured for ladies. Horses can only be taken 
to Thaliboden, about half an hour from the summit of the 
pass. 

Leaving Saas, the road passes the waterfall from the Roth- 
platt Glacier, and under the well-wooded Mittaghorn to Almagel. 
Meigeren is next reached, and then the bridle-path winds 
among rocks and stones, with the remarkable Allalein 
Glacier apparently closing the valley in front. To pass this 
glacier, the path zigzags up the mountain side, and then skirts 
the Mattmark See. Here there is an inn (3 hours from 
Saas), where those should pass the night who wish to enjoy 
the early morning view from Monte Moro. The Schwarzen- 
berg Glacier is close by. 

Still ascending from Mattmark, the chMets of Distel are 
reached in half an hour, where the usual light refreshments 
can be obtained. The Seewinen Glacier is just opposite. 

The summit of the pass of Monte Moro is reached in an 
hour from Distel. The name (like Allalein, Mattmark, and 
some other names in the neighbourhood) is of Moorish origin, 
and carries us back some eight centuries, when with the Great 
St. Bernard and the Engadine it was one of the three great 
passes into Italy, and was held by the Moors, who levied black 
mail on all comers. Fragments of ancient pavement are seen 
near the summit. The immediate approach from the Swiss side 
is very sterile and desolate, past the icy basin, into which the 
Thaliboden Glacier descends from the Joderhorn, 

By ascending the rocks near the cross on the summit, a 
really sublime prospect of Monte Rosa is beheld to the south, 
whilst turning to the north the Saas Valley is seen, with its 
picturesque surroundings. A more extensive view is obtained 
from the adjacent Joderhorn, including some of the Southern 
Alps and the Italian plains. 

The descent to Macugnagna will take about four hours. 
The route is very steep > first over a snowfield, then amongst 
tones and rocks, and then over sloping green pastures, with 


ZERMATT TO VOGOGNA. 


168 

glorious views of the Macugnagna Valley and Monte Rosa 
beyond. 

Mules can sometimes be procured at Macugnagna for the 
remainder of the journey to Vogogna j or they may have to be 
sent for from Ponte Grande, unless the traveller inclines to walk 
on. 

Macugnagna is situated between its glacier and the green 
pastures, 4400 feet above the sea level, and is girded by majestic 
mountains. In exploring the glacier, and enjoying the incom¬ 
parable views of Monte Rosa, whose five principal peaks (p. 
165) are all in sight, a day may be well spent. At any rate, the 
pine-clad eminence, known as the Belvedere —an ancient 
moraine, should be visited without fail. There is no grander 
view in the locality. If possible, proceed also, with a guide, for 
a considerable distance on to the glacier, to where a cascade 
leaps down into an icy abyss. The surrounding scene from 
this point is strangely grand and impressive. From the margin 
of the sea of ice the rocks of the central chain of Monte Rosa 
tower proudly up to the height of 7000 or 80JO feet, with 
connecting ridges to the Cima del Pizzo and Pizzo Bianco on 
one side, and to the Cima di Jazi and Monte Moro on the 
other. 

Fillar, under the old Weissthor Pass, to the north of the 
glacier j and Pedriolo, to the south of the glacier, where 
immense blocks (one specimen being ^00 feet in girth) have 
come down from Pizzo Bianco, may be included in a day’s round 
with the previously mentioned points of view. 

From Macugnagna, the route to the Simplon conducts by 
Borca, PestareTia (with its mines of gold, silver, and copper), and 
Campiole, to the rocky barrier of the Morgen, through a narrow 
gorge in which the Anza forces its way. Here the Val Macug¬ 
nagna is left, and with it, for the most part, the German lan¬ 
guage ; henceforward Italian. 

The traveller now' enters the lovely Val Anzasca, com¬ 
bining in its scenery both Swiss and Italian characteristics. At 
Ceppo Morelli, the carriage road commences. Notice the 
women hereabouts doing men’s work, in men’s unmention¬ 
ables. Vanxone is next passed—a good stopping-place for those 
who can spare time for leisurely enjoyment of this delightful 
valley. The same remark applies to the next town, Ponte 
Grande, which is the principal place in the Val Anzasca, with 
good hotel accommodation and travelling facilities. Castigilione 
is next reached 3 and then Pie di MuLera. Here the view up 


ZERMATT TO CHATILLON. 


I 69 

the richly-fertile and well-wooded valley, with Monte Rosa 
closing the scene, is very tine j there is also a grand prospect of 
the Val d’Ossola below in the other direction. The road now 
runs direct to the Simplon, near Vogogna (p. 170). 

ZERMATT TO CHATILLON. 

(By the S. Theodule Pass.) 

This is the most frequented of Alpine Glacier Passes; it is 
accomplished by many ladies with tolerable ease. The distance 
is 29 miles, requiring from 12 to 14 hours’ walking; or horses 
may be taken to the foot of the glacier, and again forward from 
the Fourneaux, in descending the southern side. It is necessary 
to start at dawn in order to reach the two hours’ passage across 
the snow at the summit before it has softened under the influ¬ 
ence of the sun’s rays. 

From Zermatt the route lies by Zmutt and along the side 
of the Corner Glacier; from the Riffel (rather shorter), the path 
is across the glacier just named. In about a couple of hours, 
vegetation is left behind, and a pathless, rocky tract is crossed to 
the foot of the glacier, where those who have ridden so far must 
dismount. 

The Glacier has few crevasses; but still the neglect of 
the rope, in such expeditions, is foolhardy, and has led to fatal 
accidents. 

The summit of the Theodule Pass is nearly 11,000 feet 
above the sea level. The scene is a very striking one. Close 
around is the broad expanse of ice. Outside this, the scene 
comprises the wondrous Matterhorn, or Mont Cervin, the 
Piedmontese mountains, Monte Rosa, the valley of S. Niklaus, 
with the Bernese Alps beyond ; and in the eastern foreground, 
the Theodulhorn (11,391 feet), the Breithorn (13,685 feet), and 
the Petit Mont Cervin (12,749 feet). 

On this Col, Saussure spent three days in scientific experi¬ 
ments. There is a small hut, where light refreshments can be 
obtained; it is the loftiest inhabited spot in Europe. 

Descending towards the Val d’Aosta, a walk of about three- 
quarters of an hour across the glacier, brings the traveller to 
the Fourneaux, a rugged tract of rocks and debris. Here 
horses can be often met with, waiting the chance of an engage¬ 
ment. Green meadows are again reached, and at Giomen, near 
Le Breuil, is a good inn, with horses, etc. 


MARTIGNY TO ARONA. 


170 

From the plain of Breuil, the descent is by a fine mountain 
gorge, with a torrent rushing through it. No guide is needed 
for the remainder of the route. From Val Tournanche, the de¬ 
scending valley is very delightful, from the charming combina¬ 
tion of rocks and precipices, rushing water, and plentiful foliage. 
Some interesting remains of a Roman aqueduct are visible at 
intervals, especially the arches, by the cliff near Antey. On 
reaching ChHillon, the tourist is on the high road traversed 
by daily diligence between Ivrea and Aosta. From Ivrea, the 
railway can be taken for Turin or Milan j and from Aosta (see 
p. 155) the St. Bernard and Martigny, or Charoouny and Mont 
Blanc may be reached. 

FROM MARTIGNY OVER THE SIMPLON, TO 

ARONA. 

The Baths of Saxon are near station Gottfrey. They are 
noted for the cure of skin diseases, and for gambling. Passing 
Ardon, with its ironworks, we soon near Sion. The traveller is 
now in a region of ancient castles. Every eminence seems to 
have had, at one time or other, its own particular fortress. At 
Sion there are three of these edifices, adding much to the pic¬ 
turesque appearance of the place as it is approached. Here the 
shale mountains are beautifully terraced like those of the Rhine. 

Sion contains, besides its three castles (of which the 
highest, the Tourbillon, may be visited for the extensive view, 
an old cathedral, of some interest for frescoes j a Jesuit con¬ 
vent, with a local natural history collection : an old prison. La 
Tour de Force 3 and a hospital. The town has had its great 
conflagration, and some thirty sieges. 

[From Sion there is a good four days’ ride, by Evolena, St. 
Luc, Griiben, and St. Niklaus, to Zermatt, which, if desired, 
can be taken in preference to the Rhone Valley and Visp Thai 
route (see p. 160).] 

The railway passes St. Leonard station, and by more ruined 
castles, mulberry plantations, etc., on to the present terminus at 
Sierre. 

Sierre (Hotel Belle Vue) is picturesquely situated on an 
eminence in the centre of a good wine district, and has many 
fine but decaying mediaeval buildings, and also some interesting 
ruins in the vicinity. 

Excursions from Sierre can be arranged to the Baths of 


THE SIMPLON. 


171 

Leuk (see p. 96) by omnibus j into the lovely Val d’Anniviers, 
etc. 

The diligence leaves Sierre daily for the Simplon route, and 
takes about twenty-two hours to accomplish the journey to 
Arona. Crossing the Rhone, the road lies past hills formerly 
the resort of brigands, past Alpine villages, glistening church 
towers, waterfalls, castles, rocks, valleys, snow mountains, alter¬ 
nations of sterility and fertility, past Leuk; Susten; 
Tourtemagne ; Viege, or Vispach. (whence numerous 
tours may be made to the glacier region of Zermatt) j and 
then on to Brigue (Brieg, Hotel de la Poste), where the 
work of ascent really commences.* Here we bid farewell to 
the romantic valley of the Rhone, and enter upon the land which 
Mr. Laing quaintly epitomizes as one of avalanches, snows, 
glaciers, winding roads, with cataracts and precipices below, and 
clouds and blue sky above, and all the other romance furniture 
of Alpine scenery.’ The road now pursued by us was con¬ 
structed by Napoleon, after the famous battle of Marengo. The 
scenery becomes wilder and grander at every turn. Bridge 
after bridge is crossed, gallery after gallery gone through, houses 
of refuge passed by, and then comes the stupendous panorama 
of the Alps, the real grandeur of which is beyond the power of 
words to paint, and which forms a sight well worth the whole 
cost of the journey from England. “ In the distance is an eagle 
soaring majestically through the air; below us is heard the 
distant Alpine horn, or the shepherd’s melodious pipe, its notes 
commingling with the tinkling of numerous sheep bells. 
Higher and higher we rise, from the very roots of the moun¬ 
tains, the picture varying in beauty at every turn 3 now the dizzy 
precipices below, now the craggy heights above, until the 
summit of the pass, 6600 ft. above the level of the sea, is 
reached. Further on is the hospice, capable of giving suitable 
refuge to three hundred, managed by pious Augustine monks. 
The little village of Simplon is situated about 1400 ft. below 
the summit. Through a black and craggy rending asunder of 
the granite Alps, the descent into Italy is commenced, a foam¬ 
ing torrent below, and straight up, above the gloomy precipices, 
the lowering clouds of heaven. Marvellous are the winding 
tunnels which commence after passing the famous Gorge of 
Gondo, said to be the wildest and grandest in the Alps. 
These gigantic tunnels are hewn out of a solid mass of rock, 

* For further particulars of the above-named places, see Rhone Valley route 
(P 77)- ® 


172 


LUCERNE TO COMO. 


which seemed to impede the further progress of the road, and 
took eighteen months to excavate—100 men, in gangs of 
eight, working in turns day and night. On emerging from 
the tunnel, a scene of stupendous majesty meets the eye. 
Hissing and roaring, the boiling waters of the Fressinone 
dash over the rocks above into the tremendous gorge below. 
On either side rise rocks more than 2000 ft. in height, the 
whole forming a picture of almost terrific sublimity. More 
cascades, more fearful ravines, more lofty crags, and then 
Gondo, the last Swiss village. Soon Iselle, the frontier 
town of Switzerland and Italy, is reached. Grevola, with 
its rock gallery, gorge, and bridge, passed, a completely 
new scene unfolds. “ Now the scenery softens,” says another 
writer; ‘^theVal d’Ossola expands, a charming relief and 
contrast to past horrors. Luxnriant verdure, plants, vines, 
insect voices, mellowing tints, the very air ‘ breathing of the 
sweet south,’ yes, this is Italy indeed ! ” There is little to detain 
us at Domo d’Ossola (Hotel de la Ville). More and more 
delightfully Italian becomes the journey. Nothing can exceed 
its highly picturesque character, especially as Fariolo is ap¬ 
proached. After passing numerous granite quarries, and the 
famous quarry out of which man’s skill has disinterred the 
whole of Milan cathedral,” a perfect maze of vineyards, olive 
groves, corn-fields, and chestnut plantations arrests the gaze. 
Here, too, the beautiful LagO Maggiore suddenly bursts 
into view, heightening inconceivably the rich glories of the 
landscape; and in the distance is seen Isola Madre, one of 
the charming islands which stud the lake. Reaching Baveno 
(where many travellers stay in order to visit the Borromean 
Isles), the diligence journey is continued over a road almost 
wholly supported by granite pillars, by the side of the famous 
lake, and passing numerous villas and gardens, it rattles at full 
speed through the streets of Aron a. 

LUCERNE OVER THE ST. GOTHARD TO 

COMO (Camerlata). 

(By steamer to Fliielen 2| hours; thence diligence to 
Camerlata, 23 hours. In summer time there are two diligences 
daily.) 

I'he St. Gothard Railway is in course of construction, 
but will not be completed for traffic through from Lucerne to * 
Como for some years. There are alread^ti. however, one or two 


ST. GOTHARD PASS, 


173 

portions of the line open, namely, from Biasca to Bellinzona 
and I,.ocarno, and from Lugano to Chiasso (p, 177). 

Leaving Fliielen, Altdorf is soon reached j the capital of 
the Canton of Uri, with a colossal statue of William Tell, mark¬ 
ing, it is said, the spot where the Swiss hero stood when he 
aimed at the apple on his son’s head. 

A little further on is Burglen, at the entrance to the 
Schachtenthal, the birthplace and home of Tell, with a chapel 
painted over with scenes from his life and supposed to mark 
the site of his house. Through the Schachtenthal there is a 
path to the Baths of Stachelberg. 

Crossing the Schachenbach (in the waters of which the hero 
perished while struggling to save a child) and skirting the 
meadow forming the popular meeting-place of the canton, 
Klus is reached. Near Silenen there is a fine view of the 
pyramidal Bristenstock (10,085) j ^ castle attributed to Gessler, 
and the chapel of the “ Fourteen saints who help the needy.” 
Several’ minor places are passed in rapid succession, the road 
rising gradually, and the scenery everywhere being of the most 
romantic description imaginable. After leaving Amsteg the 
road crosses the Reuss, which here dashes madly along, foam¬ 
ing and leaping over its rocky bed. 

The ascent of the St. Gothard is here commenced 5 it is 
not, as many suppose, a single peak or eminence, but a moun • 
tainous group presenting many peculiar features. The region 
now traversed has occupied a prominent position in modern 
continental history. In the valley of the Reuss and the sur¬ 
rounding neighbourhood, several of the deadliest struggles, 
occasioned by the outbreak of war between France, Germany, 
and Russia, in 1799 took place j the French, after their defeat 
of the Russian geneial, occupying the road as far as the Hos¬ 
pice of St. Gothard, the building of which v/as used by them 
as fuel. Crossing and recrossing the Reuss several times, and 
passing Wasen, Wattingen, and Goschenen, with its 
glacier landscape and its wonderful works in connection with 
the St. Gothard Tunnel, the awe-inspiring defile of the 
Schollenen is entered, and continues for three miles. In it, 
amid wild and savage desolation, is the famous Devil’s 
Bridge;— 

Winding ’neath rocks impending, and o’er steeps 
Dread in their awful altitude, the road 
Leads through a pass whose grandeur is a load 
Upon the awe-struck mind : the wild Reuss sweeps 


174 


LUCERNE TO COMO. 


From precipice to chasm, where it keeps 
Boiling and fretting till it throws abroad 
Mist clouds : then, chafed and flying from its goal, 

Like fiery steed, o’er crag and crevice leaps. 

The thunder rolls among the mountain peaks ; 

The echoes seem gigantic in their home, 

(Now answering deep as voice Promethean speaks ;) 

Towering aloft where the fleet chamois roam, 

’Mid pines and cottages the church oft seeks 
To build its shrine where prayerful Switzers come.” 

Here a tremendous battle was fought in 1799, between the 
French and Austrians, numbers of whom perished in the 
abyss beneath. The bridge is a modern structure 5 the old 
bridge (the ruins of which, covered with creeping plants, are 
yet visible) was blown up by the Austrians while being forced 
by the French, during the conflict. 

From the Paradise Lost ’’ of Milton, to the “ Satan ” of 
Montgomery, the certain gentleman who haunts mysterious 
places, has been the burden of poets’ song. The following 
well-known lines are very graphic:— 

“ Called the Devil’s Bridge : 

With a single arch, from ridge to ridge. 

It leaps across the terrible chasm 
Yawning beneath us black and deep. 

As if, in some convulsive spasm. 

The summits of the hills had cracked, 

And made a road for the cataract. 

That raves and rages down the steep ! 

Never any bridge but this 
Could stand across the wild abvss ; 

All the rest, of wood or stone. 

By the Devil’s hand were overthrown. 

He toppled crags from the precipice. 

And whatsoe’er was built by day 
In the night was swept away j 
None could stand but this alone.” 

Away, through the granite tunnel of Urner Loch, across the 
peaceful Valley of Uri, where winter reigns during eight 
months out of twelve, to Andermatt (Hotel Trois Rois, a 
quaint, old-fashioned inn). As Andermatt is only one mile 
from the DeviPs Bridge, it is a good place to break the journey 
at. It is the chief village of the valley. The Church has a 
remarkable skull-adorned charnel house. From the Maria- 
trilf Chapel there is a fine view. An interesting Exhibi¬ 
tion of St, Gothard Minerals opposite the hotel is 


ST. GOTHARD PASS. 


175 

worthy of notice. Hospenthal (Hotel Meyerhof), about a 
mile and a half further on, is also a good stopping place. From 
Hospenthal where the road to the Furca diverges (see p. 74), 
the road becomes steeper, ascending by numerous windings. 
The route becomes more and more impressive as we reach the 
summit of the pass, and the tourist’s sketch-book is frequently 
in active requisition. Near the Albergo del St. Gottardo, 
6500 feet about the level of the sea, is the famous Hospice, 
where superior Newfoundland dogs may be purchased, at some¬ 
what high rates, by those fond of canine companions. A pause 
is made at the post house for some time while the travellers 
dine. 

It is in the St. Gothard that the Rhine, Rhone, and Reuss 
have their source. (See p. 7). 

Hepworth Dixon, in “ The Switzers,” says, speaking of the 
St. Gothard :— 

“ Her cardinal peak is Galen-stock—the peak now towering 
on our right,—a fount of light and beauty in this sombre realm, 
which ancient shepherds, coming up the valleys of the Rhone 
and Reuss in search of fortune, called the ^Pillar of the Sun.’ 
He is the Saul of the St. Gothard group,—above the tallest of his 
brethren; Gerstenhorn, Lucendro, Mutt-horn, Spitzberg, Six 
Madun,—though all these mountains are of Anak breed. 
Three glaciers hang about his hoary neck, and shiver down his 
sturdy sides 5 the Tiefen glacier on his northern flank, the 
Siedeln glacier on his southern flank, and the Rhone glacier 
(which has many feeders) on his western flank. These glaciers 
drip by different ravines, and descend to different seas. Above 
his summit floats a canopy of cloud, from under which at times 
leap fire, and wind, and hail—those rival demons of this upper 
air, which shake and daze the earth in their plutonic and mag¬ 
netic strife. About his feet, low down among the ruts and 
wrecks of ice, lie caves of wondrous beauty and uncounted 
wealth. Three years ago a cave was entered by this Tiefen 
glacier, when the noblest crystals in the world were found. 
The rock was topaz. Fragments lay about in heaps, each 
broken piece a hundred to two hundred pounds in weight. 
Some fifteen tons of topaz were removed from this great 
hiding-place of nature in a single year. What sage can count 
the marvels yet in lurking near this Pillar of the Sun ? ” 

Crossing the Ticino, we approach the spot where the 
Russian General Suwarrow, seeing his grenadiers waver under 
the fearful fire of the French, caused a grave to be dug, declar- 


LUCERNE TO COMO. 


176 

ing he would be buried at the place where, for the first time, 
his soldiers had retreated. The effect was electrical. With a 
loud cry they furiously charged the French, driving them back 
to Lucerne j the Devil’s Bridge, destroyed a second time by 
the French, being crossed by means of planks suspended from 
the soldiers’ scarves. Descending the Val Tremola, a wild 
and dismal valley in which avalanches are not uncommon, we 
reach Airolo (Hotel de la Poste) where is an ancient tower 
more than a thousand years old, and where the sound of the 
Italian language reminds us that we are almost in another 
country. The route now becomes exceedingly beautiful •, pic¬ 
turesque ravines, mouldering ruins, foaming cataracts, huge 
masses of rock, and other romantic features imparting fresh 
charms to the landscape. The ravine just beyond, Dazio 
Grande, is one of the grandest pieces of the whole route. 
Passing Faido, the scenery becomes more Italian in appear¬ 
ance. The masses of snow which encumbered the roadside 
have completely disappeared. The rich sunshine sparkles on 
the roofs of the numerous church towers, cascades leap in a 
thousand fantastic forms over the time-beaten cliffs, while 
here and there the mulberry, the fig, and>the vine lend fresh 
attractions to the view. Then in swift succession the towns 
of Giornico, where 15,000 Austrians were ingloriously routed 
by 600 Swiss in 1478, Bodio, and Poleggio are passed. 
At Biasca. (Hotel de Biasca) the St. Gothard railway can be 
taken to Bellinzona and Locarno. A farther portion of the 
line is also open (1876) between Lugano and Chiasso. Re¬ 
suming the diligence route from Biasca, we reach Osogna, 
situated at the base of a rocky peak. Two or three small 
villages follow, then, the junction with the Bernardino route 
(see p. 181), the Moesa is crossed, and the road, passing 
ArbedO, where in 1422, 3000 Swiss were defeated by 24,000 
Milanese, brings to view the frowning walls and lofty turrets 
of Bellinzona. . (Hotel de la Ville and Hotel I’Ange.) 
Omnibuses may be taken from here to Magadino (p. 189). 
The position of the fortress-wall was formerly one of great 
strength. Nothing can surpass the superb character of the 
landscape at this point. To reproduce it in full beauty is 
utterly beyond the skill of the artist, even were he possessed 
of the genius of a Turner. Near Cadenazzo emerging 
from the charming valley of the Ticino, through which 
the traveller has so long been pleasantly journeying, and, 
after passing through a rich chestnut wood, and by various 


COIRE TO COLICO. 


177 

mountains, and villages, he arrives at Lugano. (Hotel du 
Parc.) Passing by the east side of the Lake of Lugano, 
Melide is reached, where the lake is crossed by means of a 
stone dam, erected some years since at a cost of 700,000 francs. 
At Mendrisio is seen Monte Generoso, "‘The Rigi of 
Italian Switzerland.” Good hotels abound here. At Mendri¬ 
sio, Hotel Mendrisio 5 at Monte Generosa, Hotel de Monteroso ; 
and at Rovio, the Hotel Rovio. At Chiasso is the custom 
house, and here the tourist takes leave of Switzerland, and in a 
brief period of time finds himself at Como. Chiasso is the 
present terminus (1876) of the St. Gothard railway. 

COIRE, OVER THE SPLUGEN, TO COLICO 

(COMO). 

Coire (Hotel Steinbock). In the summer-time there are 
three diligences daily. The journey to Colico is about seventy- 
six miles,’ and performed in about seventeen hours. 

For six miles the road is level, and excepting the barracks, 
esplanade, and agricultural school, there is little to see. Passing 
through the little village of Ems, and crossing the Rhine by a 
covered bridge (252 ft. long), Reichenau is reached at the con¬ 
fluence of the Vorder-Rhein and Hinter-Rhein. In the chateau, 
Louis Philippe, then Due de Chambres, seeking refuge from the 
fury of the French Revolution, resided from October 1793 to July 
1794, under the assumed name of Chabot. The road increases 
in interest as the journey progresses. Small towns and villages 
are passed, and on the summits of rocky and barren crags in 
this romantic region, houses and churches are seen perched 
like doves on the roofs of high buildings. Dark-brown goats 
are also browsing on the cliffs j vegetation is rich, and the sides 
of the road are starred with flowers. 

Bonaduz, with its ancient frescoes in the chapel of St. 
George j Rhazniis, with the handsome residence of the Vieli 
family, overlooking the Rhine j Katzis; and many castles, 
chateaux, etc., are successively passed. Near Katzis, the Piz 
Curver, Piz St. Michael, and other majestic snow-clad moun¬ 
tains, are prominent features of the prospect. On approaching 
Thusis, the castle of Tagstein is seen overlooking the slopes by 
the pretty village of Massein. 

Thusis (Hotel Via Mala) is at the confluence of the 

Nolla with the Rhine, a pretty village on a spur of the Heinzen- 

12 


COIRE TO COLICO. 


178 

berg, in the midst of fine scenery. It was burnt down in 1845, 
and has been much improved in the re-building. From the 
Nolla, a very remarkable view is obtained. The valley is en¬ 
circled by a guardian chain of lofty mountains j on the right 
hand are the ruins of the castle of Hohen-Rhaetien, or Hoch- 
Realt, found, it is said, by Raetus, chief of the Etruscans, b.c. 
587. If so, it is the oldest castle in Switzerland. 

The Via Mala is now entered. It is a remarkable fissure, 
three to four miles long, a few feet wide, with precipices of 1500 
feet. As seen in Middleton Dale, in Derbyshire, and some 
other similar ravines, the two sides correspond with each other, 
suggesting that some vast natural convulsion produced this 
enormous fissure. From 200 to <00 feet above the stream 

V 

below, a carriage-road has been hewn out of the solid rock, and 
protected by strong masonry. At the Verlorenes Loch^ or Lost 
Gulf, at Via Mala, where the once impassable rocks are tunnelled 
for over 200 ft., it is as though the grandeur of nature had been 
concentrated on this wild spot. The view looking back towards 
Thusis is probably one of the finest in all the Alpine passes. 
The traveller will not fail to notice the great’ skill exercised in 
engineering this wonderful piece of road. The river is crossed 
three times, and at the second bridge the view either way is 
grand in the extreme. 

Leaving the Via Mala, the valley of Schams (Latin, Sexam- 
niensis—“ six streams ”) is entered. Here the green meadows 
and neat cottages form a graceful relief, after the gloomy 
terrors of the awful chasms from which the traveller has just 
emerged. The peaks of the Hirli are seen to the south. 

Passing Zillis, with its ancient church, and Donat, a village, 
with the castle of La Turr (where dwelt the Austrian bailiff 
whose head Johann Calder plunged into the boiling broth, as 
recorded in Swiss history), and crossing the glacier stream that 
comes down from the Piz Curver, Andeer is reached. Here are 
a ruined castle, fine views, and capital opportunities for excur¬ 
sions to some of the adjacent valleys. Passing the ruins of the 
Barenburg, a kind of minor Via Mala is entered, known as the 
RofTna Ravine, a wild gorge three miles long, through which 
the bright waters of the Rhine precipitate themselves in a 
remarkable series of cascades and falls. Leaving the gorge 
behind, the spacious snow-fields of the Einshorn reveal them¬ 
selves 5 while further on the noble Alpine landscape of the 
Rheinwald Thai bursts into view. The little village of Spliigen 


THE SPLUGEN. 


179 

(Hotel de la Poste) is 4800 feet above the level of the sea. 
Here travellers by diligence stop for refreshments. On the 
Spliigen, as on the Julier slopes, numbers of Bergamasque 
shepherds with their flocks are encountered during the season. 
An excursion to the source of the Hinter-Rhein can be arranged 
from this place. 

Spliigen to Bellinzona, by the Bernardino Pass (see p. 180). 

Leaving Spliigen, the diligence crosses the Rhine through 
a long gallery or tunnel, and then, by means of numerous 
zig-zags, mounts to the summit of the Spliigen Pass. 

Crossing the frontier, the descent into Italy is commenced. 

I have crossed by Mont Cenis Pass, the St. Gothard, and the 
Simplon,” says a recent traveller, ‘^and though each has its own 
peculiar attraction, yet the Spliigen Pass is truly the most 
magnificent road over the Alps. No one can go over this road 
and enter into the spirit of it, without feeling that the mind 
has been enlarged by this communion with Nature in her 
noble grandeur.” 

This opinion is held by many who have become acquainted 
with the characteristics of the different routes. The Spliigen 
Pass was known to the Romans. The present road was con¬ 
structed by the Austrian Government in 1821. 

Passing the Dogana, or Italian Custom House, and two 
or three adjacent houses, whose first-floor windows are often 
on a level with the surrounding snow, the traveller proceeds by 
endless zig-zag paths, through numerous galleries, past the 
waterfall formed by the Madesimo (800 ft. in height), till a halt 
is made at the tiny village of Campo Dolcino, with its 
church and cemetery. Then through the Liro valley, or 
Valle S. Giacomo, the rugged aspect of which is somewhat 
softened by the rich luxuriance of the vast chestnut forests 
below. Rapidly the features of the landscape begin to change 
their aspect. The region of firs and pines, of overhanging 
precipices and romantic waterfalls, of frowning rocks and 
yawning chasms, are left for a land of beautiful vineyards, 
stately olive groves, and golden cornfields. 

Chiavenna (Hotel Conradi), is a capital resting-place. 
Very charming is the locale of the town. It is situated on the 
Maira, at the entrance to the Val Bregaglia. There are some 
ruins of an ancient castle of the De Salis family, which had a 
troublous history in the old days. From the castle garden the 


i8o 


SPLUGEN TO BELLINZONA. 


views are very fine. The church of S. Lorenzo has a beautiful 
campanile springing up from an arcaded enclosure, which was 
formerly the cemetery, or Campo Santo. Those interested in 
such things may inspect the neatly-arranged skulls and bones in 
the adjacent charnel houses. There is a very antique sculptured 
font in the Baptistery. 

From Chiavenna, the character of the scenery again changes 
and all around there are mountains hemming in the valleys, and 
wild ravines forming singular contrasts to the quieter scenes. 
The falls of the Maira near here form a perfect picture. 
Crossing swift rushing rivers, and leaving the realms of eternal 
snow behind, cornfields, vineyards, and mulberry groves are 
passed. Riva is the last village on the road. The Lake 
of Riva is skirted, and the ruins of the castle of Fuentes— 
owing its origin to the Spaniards in 1603, and its destruction 
to the French in 1796,—are passed on the right. The 
diligence stops at Colico, where the steamboat is waiting to 
convey the tourist across the silvery waters of the beautiful 
lake, whose distant sails 

For floating birds we take, 

Bathing in azure waves their plumes of snow. 

Wherein shore, tower, and town their mirror make.” 


SPLUGEN TO BELLINZONA, BV THE SAN 
BERNARDINO PASS. 

(By diligence in eight hours.) 

Splugen (see p. 178). 

The road passes Medels and Niifenen to Hinterrhein, 
the highest village of the Upper Rheinwaldthal. 

[From Hinterrhein a fatiguing expedition of four hours can 
be undertaken to the source of the Hinterrhein, issuing from an 
opening in the Rheinwald or Zapport Glacier, at an altitude of 
7270 ft. above the sea level. From the adjacent Zapportalp 
the glacier can be ascended, and good views obtained of the 
Rheinwald mountains, varying from nine to eleven thousand 
feet in height.] 

After crossing the stream by a three-arched bridge, and 
wending up the mountain side, the road forward from Hinter¬ 
rhein conducts through a sterile ravine to thejS. Bernardino 
Pass (6770 ft.) This pass, which was known to the Romans, 


SAN BERNARDINO PASS. 


i 8 i 


received its present name from the chapel erected in the time 
of St. Bernardino of Siena. The inn (Casa di Rifugio), stands 
by the Lago Moesola, whose shores are an attractive place for 
the Alpine botanist. A fine waterfall in the river Moesa is 
passed, and the bridge, named after Victor Emmanuel, is crossed. 
To the monarch just named, the construction of this Alpine 
carriage route is chiefly due. Passing for some distance under 
a well-buttressed roof, to guard against avalanches, the road 
then descends the precipitous face of the mountain by windings 
so cleverly constructed that a quick trot can be kept up all 
the way. 

S. Bernardino is the highest village in the Val Mesol- 
cina. The baths at this place, supplied from the mineral springs 
are in good repute, and well frequented in summer. 

Passing the Fall of the Moesa, Giacomo, and Cehbia, and 
commanding many beautiful views, especially from the bridge 
of S. Giacomo, the road proceeds to Mesocco, from which 
this delightfully Italian and rigidly Roman Catholic valley de¬ 
rives its name. Maize, vines, mulberry and walnut trees, in 
luxuriant abundance, clothe the valley, into which numerous 
waterfalls leap down from the enclosing mountains. The 
snake haunted ruins of the castle of Misox add charmingly to 
the interest of the view in passing Mesocco. 

The road in proceeding passes abundant evidences of the 
fearful ravages of the storm and floods of 1868, when over 250 
dwellings and many bridges were destroyed. The beautiful 
Waterfall of Buffalora is seen soon after passing Soazza. 
Cabbiola, with its waterfalls, Lostallo with its vineyards, Gama, 
Leggia, and Grono, with the strongly-built tower of Florentina 
and a frescoed chapel, are successively passed. 

At Grono is the entrance to the Val Calanca, extending 
18 miles northward to the Adula mountains, and studded with 
numerous towns and villages. 

At Roveredo, the chief town of the lower valley (pop. 
I joo), are the ruins of the castle of the Trivulzio family. At this 
town the good St. Charles Borromeo, in 1538, burnt eleven old 
women and the prior of Roveredo for witchcraft. After passing 
8 . Vittore, the last village of the Grisons, and Lumino, the 
first of Canton Ticino, the St. Gothard route is reached, near 
the bridge over the Moesa (p. 

Hence by the battle-field of Arbedo to Bellinzona (see 
p. 176). 


i 82 


COIRE TO ANDERMATT. 


COIRE TO ANDERMATT BY THE OBERALP. 

(By diligence in 13^ hours.) 

The route is by one of the most picturesque valleys in 
Switzerland, the Vorder Rheinthal, with castles on the heights 
along the river as numerous as in Rhenish Prussia itself. 

At Reiclienau (p. 23), 6 miles from Coire, two routes offer 
themselves as far as Ilanz. The shortest is on the left bank of 
the river, by Versam, with its lofty bridge, (260 feet above the 
waters of the Rabiusa,) Carrera, Vallendas, and cretinous Kas- 
tbris, to Ilanz. The other and far more picturesque route is by 
the high road 011 the right bank, through numerous villages, 
and with plenty of fine views of mountains, waterfalls, ruined 
castles, etc. Tamins, Trins, and Flimsarethe chief places 
passed. 

Ilanz, on both sides the Rhine, was once an important 
place, as many fine old houses with armorial bearings testify. 
The language of the place is Romansch, which is more or less 
prevalent throughout the valley. Grand views are obtained in 
this vicinity, especially from some of the neighbouring heights— 
the Piz Mundaun (6773 feet), and others. Excursions to 
the Lugnetz Valley, or the Yrinthal, are of great inte¬ 
rest. 

The road forward crosses the Rhone at Tavanasa, and at 
Rinkenberg, proceeding through delightful and ever-varying 
scenery to Trons. 

At Trons the diligence stops to allow the passengers to 
dine. There are several attractions to inspect. The Hall of 
the Statthalterei of the Abbey of Dissentis, is adorned 
with armorial bearings of the magistrates of many genera¬ 
tions. The fragment of the sycamore-tree near the village, 
over 700 years old, marks the spot where the celebrated Grey 
League was formed, in 1424, to resist the tyranny of the 
feudal lords (p. 32). The adjacent Chapel of St. Anna 
has curious frescoes and mottoes illustrating the history of the 
League. The view from the Church of S. Maria, above the 
village, is very fine. 

Rahius is next passed, and then picturesque Somvix on its 
hill The Val Somvix is well worth exploring. There is a 
bridle-path through it, and by the Greina Pass to Olivone, occu¬ 
pying about twelve hours. 


THE OBERALP PASS. 


183 

Nearing Dissentis, the boldly-constructed road crosses the 
grand Russeiner Tobel, by a v»^ooden bridge over 200 feet in 
length, at a height of 160 feet above the stream below. 

Dissentis was famous for its Benedictine Abbey, founded 
in the 7th century by fellow-missionaries of St. Gall, and long 
the head-quarters of religion and civilization in these remote 
regions. It is finely situated, 4000 feet above the sea level, 
having been rebuilt after a fire in 1846, and is now used as a 
Cantonal School. 

At Dissentis, the Mittel-Rhein, or Medelser, joins the 
Vorder Rhein. The Medelser Glacier is well seen from the 
Chapel of St. Acletta, half a mile west of Dissentis. The 
Piz Muraun (9511 feet) can be ascended in five hours; 
ladies have accomplished it. The Medelser Thai, Lukmanier 
Pass, Val Piora, etc., to the south, and the Val Russein, Sand- 
alp Pass, in the Tbdi Mountains, etc., to the north, afford 
good opportunities for explorations, of too protracted and 
fatiguing a character, however, for the general tourist. 

From Dissentis there is a route to Biascaon the St. Gothard 
route (p. 176); nine hours by a bridle-path across the Lukmanier 
Pass (6298 feet) to Olivone; thence by diligence to Biasca in 
three hours. Some portions of this route are similar to the 
Via Mala. 

Leaving Dissentis, the Vorder Rhein is seen, reduced to a 
mountain torrent, up the left bank of which the road ascends, 
affording splendid views of the valley behind, and the snow-clad 
mountains in front. 

Passing Sedriin, chief village in the Tavetsch Valley, 
Rueras, S. Giacomo, and other villages, and the ruins of the 
Castle of Pultmenga on a rocky hill, Tschamut is reached, 
at a height of 5380 feet above the sea level—the highest place 
in Europe where corn is successfully grown. 

Winding up the Val Surpalix, the road reaches the boundary 
between the Grisons and Uri, at the summit of the OLoralp 
Pass (6733 feet). The Oberalp See, abounding in trout, 
was the scene of a fierce struggle between French and Austrians 
in 1799. The road crosses the Oberalp, and soon brings the 
traveller in sight of the Vale of Urseren, with the Furca Inn 
in the background. By a number of long windings, Ander- 
matt, on the St. Gothard route, is reached (p. 174). 


COIRE TO THE ENGADINE. 


184 

COIRE TO THE ENGADINE BY THE JULIER 

PASS. 

(By diligence to Samaden in 14 hours.) 

This route leads through very fine scenery to the increasingly 
popular district known as the Engadine. 

At Churwalden the whey cure is usually in full opera¬ 
tion. From Parpan the Statzerhorn or Piz Raschill, 8452 
feet, can be ascended without a guide. There is a splendid 
panorama of the adjacent valleys and mountain chains. 

At a height of 5088 feet, the Pass of Valbella is crossed. 
The descending road then leads by the Lake of Vatz, and some 
smaller lakes, on to Lenz. Thence, still descending, the rapid 
Albula is reached by Tiefenkasten. This village is finely 
situated in a basin-like valley. 

Hence by Burvein^ Conters, Schweiningen, Iinzen, and 
other picturesque villages, and amongst much remarkable hill 
and valley scenery, rendered still more interesting by occa¬ 
sional waterfalls, churches, castles, etc., the route conducts to 
Molins (Miihlen.) Here the diligence usually halts for dinner. 

The scenery is now increasingly fine; grand rocks and 
dense woods mingle their attractions. Leaving Molins, the 
road winds through a wild gorge, with fir and larch-covered 
cliffs rising on either side. As the road rises, the wildness of 
the scenery increases, and vegetation becomes poorer, till at 
Stalla, or Bivio (5827 feet), even potatoes can seldom be suc¬ 
cessfully grown. 

From Stalla there is an ancient route, now little frequented, 
over the Septimer pass to Casaccia. It was often trodden by 
Roman and German armies. 

In about two hours from Stalla the summit of the Julier 
Pass is reached ( 75*^3 feet). Here are two round columns, said 
by some to be Augustan milestones, by others described as 
Celtic altars to the sun. On the adjacent lofty pastures im¬ 
mense flocks of sheep are fed in summer. 

The short descent from the pass into the high valley of the 
Engadine is very striking. Between the lofty precipices of the 
Piz Julier and Piz d’Albana on the left, and the Piz Pulaschin 
on the right, the road descends. The view of Silvaplana and 
its lake, with the snowy peaks of the Bernina mountains in the 
background, is exceedingly fine. Silvaplana (see p. 186) is reached 
in about an hour from the pass, and then Samaden (see p. 186). 


THE ENGADINE. 


185 


COIRE TO THE ENGADINE BY THE ALBULA 

PASS. 

(By diligence to Ponte in ii hours.) 

Coire to Lenz, see p. 184. 

From Lenz a fine new road passes Brienz, and then winds 
down into the Albula Thai to Bad Alveneu, with its 
mineral springs. The scenery is very beautiful. The ruins 
of the Greifenstein frown from a rock above the town of 
Filisur. 

The Bergiiner Stein is a thickly-wooded, deep mountain 
gorge. High up on one side a rock-blasted road runs 6^0 feet 
above the Albula flowing below. Bergun lies in a grassy 
basin, surrounded by snowy peaks. It has an old church and a 
fine prison-tower. 

From Bergiin the road winds and curves by various chalets, 
and several fine waterfalls, formed by the Albula river, up to 
the rock-strewn valley known as the Teufelsthal. Thence the 
summit of the Albula Pass is reached, 7589 feet above the 
sea level, closed in by the granite and limestone peaks of the 
Albulastock. The pass itself is a mass of rocks and debris in 
chaotic confusion. 

Winding down from the Pass towards Ponte, fine views of 
the valley are obtained, with the Piz Languard on the right, and 
the distant Piz del Diavel (10,259 feet). 

THE ENGADINE, 

or Upper Valley of the Inn, extends along the river Inn for about 
fifty-seven miles, and is generally about a mile broad. At its 
north-east extremity, near Martinsbruck, it is over 3000 feet 
above the sea level, and rises to nearly 6000 feet at Sils on the 
south-w'est. The valley produces in abundance grass and wild 
flowers. Foila tout ! Its dry, clear atmosphere and intensely 
blue skies are proverbial, and it is hemmed in by majestic moun¬ 
tains and glacial scenery. For sketchers, botanists, butterfly- 
collectors, Alpine climbers, and others, the Engadine is a very 
paradise. The most interesting part of the valley is the Upper 
Engadine, south-west of Samaden. 


i86 


SAMADEN. 


THE UPPER ENGADINE. 

(The Maloja to Samaden, miles.) 

The Maloja is an elevated table-land (^941 feet), separat¬ 
ing the Engadine from the Val Bregaglia. In the vicinity are 
the sequestered, mountain-girdled Cavloccio Lake, the ele¬ 
gant Monte d’Oro (10,544 feet), the Ordlegna MTaterfall, 
the snowy MurettO Pass (8389 feet), leading to Chiesa. 

From the Maloja we will briefly describe the prominent fea¬ 
tures of the Engadine Valley to its termination. Passing by 
the light green Lake of Sils (4^ miles in length), commanded 
by the Piz della Margna (10,354 feet), and its frowning glacier, 
the town of Sils is reached, with some capital mountain and 
glacier expeditions in the vicinity. 

The Lake of Silvaplana is next skirted, and then the 
town of the same name is reached, pleasantly surrounded by 
green pastures. Every season this delightful town and neigh¬ 
bourhood is receiving an increasing number of visitors j and its 
beauties are so unique, that they justify the glowing colours in 
which they have been painted. 

From Silvaplana a capital excursion can be arranged to 
Pontresina (p. 187) by the Pass called the Fuorcla da Surlej 
(9042 feet). 

Silvaplana to Coire by the Julier Pass (see p. 184). 

Campfer is li miles from Silvaplana, Piz Languard, tower¬ 
ing to the south-east. 

St. Moritz (6100 feet) is the next place in the valley, the 
highest village in the Engadine. The Baths of St. MoritZ 
are on a grassy plain, one mile from the village. They were highly 
praised by Paracelsus in 1539. Two hundred and fifty patients 
can be accommodated at the Curhaus. Variations of tempera¬ 
ture must be provided against here, as elsewhere in the Enga¬ 
dine, for snow in August is not infrequent. Many beautiful 
walks, carriage-drives, and excursions are afforded in the varied 
and interesting neighbourhood of St. Moritz. 

Some other small places, only interesting as supplying start¬ 
ing places for further explorations of the district, are next 
passed, and then 

SAMADEN 

(Hotel Bernina), 

is reached. This is the chief place in the Upper Engadine 
(pop., 550) j it has several handsome houses and a bank. Here 


THE LOWER ENGADINE. 


187 

reside the great Planta family, who have been a considerable 
power in the country for nearly a thousand years. The grave¬ 
stones of the Plantas, and other great families now extinct, 
lie thick in the old Church of St. Peter near the village. 

From Samaden the Muottas (8464 feet) may be visited, 
with fine views of the Bernina Glaciers, the Lakes of the 
Upper Engadine, etc. Another excursion is to the Piz Ot 
(10,660 feet). The flora of all this district is very fine. 

From Samaden, Pontresina (see below) is often visited by 
those not intending to take the Bernina Pass. The Piz Bernina 
(13,294 feet), and other peaks of the grand Bernina chain, are 
accessible from this place. The beautiful and interesting glaciers 
of this district, covering about 350 square miles, are now fre¬ 
quently inspected. 

PONTRESINA. 

Pontresina is only a village of about 300 inhabitants, at an 
altitude of nearly 6000 feet. Flowers are abundant. It is a 
first-rate head-quarters for glacial expeditions. 

Amongst the attractions of Pontresina, the chief is perhaps 
the ascent of the Piz Languard, through rhododendron 
fringed forests, and across bright green pastures. From the 
summit (10,713 feet, or nearly 5000 above Pontresina) the view 
is bounded by Monte Rosa and Mont Blanc in the south-west, 
and north-west by the Todi, and includes all East Switzerland 
and a portion of the Tyrol. On the sides of this mountain the 
botanist may find a rich harvest of rare specimens. 

The Morteratsch. Glacier is a “ frozen cataract,’’ six 
miles in length, li hours south of Pontresina. 

The Roseg Glacier, like the previous, needs no guide j it 
is about 2i hours from Pontresina. There are several other 
excursions, as to the Diavolezza, etc., for experienced moun¬ 
taineers only. 

THE LOWER ENGADINE. 

Samaden to Nauders, 11 hours by diligence—not worth while 
to walk. 

Leaving Samaden, a fine view of the lower valley, with the 
snowy mountains and bright glaciers that encompass it, is ob¬ 
tained. 

Passing Bevers, under Crasta Mora (9636 feet), Ponte is 
reached, with its old castle. 

Ponte to Coire, by the Albula Pass (see p. 183). 

Passing Madulein, and its ruined thirteenth century 


i88 


BERNINA AND STELVIO PASSES. 


castle of Guardavall, and Zuz, with its ancient tower, a milder 
and better cultivated portion of the valley is reached. Scanfs, 
Zernetz (fine old church and ancient castle), Lavin, burnt 
down in 1869, Ardetz, Schuls, Baths of Tarasp, Vulpera, 
Remus, Martinshruck, and then Nauders, are the chief re¬ 
maining places in the valley. The diligence ride is interesting 
and attractive throughout; and at many points the traveller who 
has time at his disposal may well be tempted to alight and 
sojourn at one of the village inns, to make explorations on 
either side of this beautiful and remarkable valley. 

THE BERNINA PASS. 

(Samaden to Tirano, by diligence, 8| hours.) 

From Samaden to Pontresina by the Flatzbach. From 
Pontresina the route lies by the Morteratsch Glacier (see 
p. 187), and the Bernina Houses (6735 feet). Four miles fur¬ 
ther on, after leaving the region of trees, and passing the Lago 
Minore and Lago Nero, Ospizio Bernina is reached, plea¬ 
santly situated on the Lago Bianco, two miles long, and 
affording plenty of fish. The Cambrena Glacier is just oppo¬ 
site. To this point excursions are often made from Pontresina 
and St. Moritz. The Piz Campaccio and Piz Lagalp are acces¬ 
sible peaks in the neighbourhood. At a short distance east is 
the highest point of the Bernina Pass. 

Through rock-hewn galleries and by winding curves, the road 
descends, and fine views are obtained of the Poschiavino Valley, 
the bottom of which is reached at Pisciadella. 

Poschiavo, the delightful watering-place of Le Prese, Brusio, 
Campo Cologno, and Madonna di Tirana, are successively reached, 
and then Tirano, with its ancient palaces of the Pallavicini, 
Visconti, and other noble families. From Tirano, there is a 
route, 45 miles, through the Valtellina to Colico, by diligence, 
in 8 hours, passing Sondrio and Morbegno, and joining the 
Spliigen route a little before reaching Colico. 

THE STELVIO PASS, 

Nauders (see above). 

From Nauders the road leads by S. Valentin auf der Heide, 
where Maximilian was defeated in 1499 ^7 ^ Grisons army half 
the number of his own 5 then by Mals, with Knollers picture 
of the Death of Joseph,” in the church. Abundance of fine 
mountain scenery and many ruined castles, and other objects of 


THE ITALIAN LAKES. 189 

interest, are passed, and also the towns of Prad, Trafoi, and 
Franzenshohe. 

Eight miles from Franzenshohe, the summit of the StelviO 
Pass is reached, 9045 feet above the sea level. A grand view 
of the Order Spitz, 12,900 feet, is obtained from an adjacent 
eminence. This road is the highest in Europe. It is annually 
much damaged by the spring avalanches, etc. j but is quite safe 
from June to September, though it is well to postpone crossing 
the Pass just after a heavy fall of snow. Through grand and 
varied scenery the route descends to S. Maria and the celebrated 
Baths of Bormio, with their chalybeate springs and beautiful 
pleasure grounds ^ and then on by Bolladore to Tivano (p. 188). 

THE ITALIAN LAKES. 

(For fuller particulars of the Italian Lakes, see “Cook’s Hand¬ 
book to Northern Italy.”) 

A visit to these charming lakes can readily be united with a 
Swiss tour. 

A tour of the lakes may be made thus :—Visit Lago 
Maggiore, and terminate the journey at Luino (see below) 
Take diligence, or carriage, to Lugano. Make the tour of the 
lake, and terminate the journey at Porlezza. Hence take 
omnibus or carriage to Menaggio, on the lake of Como, and if 
Lago d’Iseo and Lago di Garda are to be visited, terminate the 
Como journey at Lecco, and take train via Bergamo. 

LAGO MAGGIORE 

is about forty miles long, of varying breadth, and unequal 
scenery. The northern part is finer than the southern, the glory 
of the lake culminates in the neighbourhood of Baveno and Stresa. 

Three steamboats daily run from Magadino to Arona in six 
hours for five francs. 

The chief places on the lake are Magadino, unpleasant 
and unhealthy j Locarno, a busy place j pilgrimage church of 
Madonna del Sasso 5 Ascona, with its ruined castle j Bris- 
sago (by Mont Limidario, 6550 feet), abounding in orchards 
of orange, lemon, fig, etc.; Canobbio ; in the church are 
frescoes by Gaudenzio Ferrari; Maccagno j Luino, from 
whence the drive to Lugano is one of the sweetest imaginable j 
Cannero, with the two castled islands opposite, where in 
the 15th century, the Mazzarda brothers lived a life of mur¬ 
derous brigandage j Oggebio, PortO, Laveno, near the 


THE ITALIAN LAKES. 


190 

beautiful mountain II Sasso del Ferro, from whose summit a 
charming prospect, stretching from Milan to Monte Rosa, is 
seen; the silk-winding town of Intra, Pallanza (Grand 
Hotel, Pallanza), Baveno, from either of which the Borro- 
mean Isles can be readily visited. From Pallanza also there is a 
pleasant omnibus route to Lago d’Orta, and from Baveno the 
Simplon rou^e can be joined (p. 172). 

Between Laveno and Intra, and between Pallanza and the 
islands, glorious glimpses of the Monte Rosa, Strahlhorn, 
Simplon, and other‘mountain scenery are obtained. 

THE BORROMEAN ISLANDS 

are four in number, Isola S. Giovanni, Isola Bella, and Isola 
Madre (belonging to the Borromeo family), and Isola Superiore, 
or Dei Pescatori (^the fishermen’s island). 

Isola Bella is a planted and terraced pleasure-ground, on 
a once bare rock; very fine, but somewhat formal and artifi- 
» cial. The views of the lake and its surroundings are splendid. 
Admission to the Gardens is one franc; to the Chateau, 
with some good pictures, and room where Napoleon slept the 
night before Marengo, also one franc. 

Isola Madre (one franc) is a charming terraced island, 
with many rare tropical plants. 

Isola del Pescatori is a compact fishermen’s village. 

Isola S. Giovanni is of no particular interest. 

After leaving the Borromean isles, at the principal of which, 
Isola Bella, the steamer stops without extra charge for landing 
or embarking, Stresa is next reached. 

Stresa (Hotel des lies Borromees, a magnificent hotel, 
commanding some of the finest views on the lake) is a pleasant 
place, surrounded with fine scenery both by land and water. 
From here the Monte Motterone may be ascended : it is 4174 
feet above the lake, and the view equals, if it does not rival, that 
from the Rigi ; the plain of Lombardy and Piedmont, with the 
Cathedral of Milan, in clear'view ; six of the Italian lakes, with 
.their picturesque islands and * surroundings; the rivers Sesia 
and Ticino meandering in-streams oLsilver; and on the other 
hand, the great mountains from Monte Rosa to Ortler in the 
Tyrol. 

Belgirate is the next town passed, and the tour of the lake 
comes to an end at Arona. 

Arena contains a Church of S. Maria, with the Bor- 


THE ITALIAN LAKES. 


19I 

romeo Chapel 3 a Holy Family, by Gaudenzio Vinci, and some 
other pictures. The colossal Statue of St. Charles Borromeo 
is near the town, sixty-six feet high, on a forty feet pedestal. 
Facilities exist for the adventurous to mount the pedestal, enter 
the saint’s body, and climb up into his head. 

From Arona diligences run to Bellinzona, for the St. Gothard 
or Bernardino Pass, to Lucerne, or Coire. See local time tables. 

(For the Railway to Genoa and Turin, and the Railway to 
Milan, see Cook’s Guide to Northern Italy.”) 

THE LAKE OF COMO 

is the grandest and most beautiful of the Italian lakes. It is 
thirty-eight miles long, and varies from one to three miles in 
breadth. It reminds sometimes of the Rhine, and sometimes of 
Lake Lucerne, yet differs from both. A perfect efflorescence of 
loveliness is this fairy lake. In whatever direction you cast 
your eyes whilst traversing its waters, the scenic effects are un¬ 
rivalled. Embosomed amongst lofty mountains towering 
proudly above the silvery surface; verdant slopes and vine-claa 
hills, with villas on the margin and on jutting peninsulas 3 ^pic¬ 
turesque and charmingly-situated villages 3 the eye never wearies 
in its search for the beautiful. Castles, with turreted towers, 
ever and anon keep peeping out, as the boat proceeds, from the 
sylvan woods which hide them, a sort of stolen glance. The 
glowing Italian sky, the azure of which is almost unknown to 
those who are accustomed to the unkind climate of England 3 
the water of an indescribable blue, the delicious purity of the 
atmosphere, and the silver streaks of sunlight cast upon the lake 
heighten the beauty of the scene. The finest prospects are near 
Bellaggio. 

The tour of the lake can be made either from Colico or Como. 

Colico is simply a station for diligences. They run twice 
daily to Chiavenna,.for the Splugen route3 also to Sondrio and 
Bormio. Steamers from Como twice daily. 

Menaggio (Hotel Victoria) is a popular halting-place. 
The scenery is exquisite. It also contains the Villa Vigoni, 
near the town, with some modern works of art of great beauty 3 
reliefs by Thorwaldsen ^ monument to the son of the late pro¬ 
prietor, by Marchesi; and a family group, by Argenti. The 
large silkworm manufactory is of great interest. 

From Menaggio to Lugano, by omnibus and steamer, is an 
easy and pleasant journey. 


THE ITALIAN LAKES. 


' T92 


The tour of the three principal lakes may be made thus:— 
Menaggio to Lugano, Lake of Lugano, Lugano to Luino, Lago 
Maggiore. For this tour a special circular ticket is provided bv 
Thos. Cook and Son. 

BellaggiO (Hotel Grand Bretagne, with the Dependence 
Hotel Pension, Villa Serbelloni. The hotel is one of the finest 
in the Italian Lake districts 3 the Pension is the gem of the 
neighbourhood.) 

Bellaggio is charmingly situated where the lake divides into 
two arms. The magnificent park and gardens of the Villa 
Serbelloni form one of the finest attractions of the place. Ad¬ 
mission one franc to those not staying at the Hotel. At the 
Villa Melzi are many works of art by Canova, Thorwaldsen, 
Marched^ etc. 

From Bellaggio to Lecco a steamer runs daily. 

Cadenabbia (Grand Hotel Belle Vue) is justly popular 
with invalids and others. The Villa Carlotta contains some 
wonderful works by Thorwaldsen, and Canova. Monte Cre- 
cione can be ascended in about eight hours. 

Several places of more or less interest and beauty are passed. 
Between Moltrasio and Cernobbio is the Villa d’Este> 
now the Hotel Regina dTnghilterra, where Queen Caroline,wife 
of George IV., resided. This is a capital centre for excursions 3 
the grounds are very fine. (Cook’s coupons accepted). 

Como (Hotel Regina dTnghitlerra, see above)—popula¬ 
tion, 21,000—lies at the extreme end of this arm of the lake, and 
is backed by fine hills and mountains. It is celebrated as being 
the birthplace of Pliny the Elder and the Younger. The latter 
had several villas in the neighbourhood. Volta, the electrician, 
and Pazzi, the astronomer, were also born here. 

The Cathedral, built in 1396, is entirely of marble, and 
is a remarkably handsome church. The fa9ade is very rich. 
Statues of the two Plinys by the principal entrance. 

In the interior the principal paintings are— 


The Marriage of the Virgin 
The Flight into Egypt 
Adoration of Magi 
Virgin and Child, with saints 


G. Ferrari. 

Ibid. 
B. Luino. 
Ibid. 


There are some fine altarpieces in the church 3 the one with 
St. Joseph and the young Saviour is the last work of Marchesi, 
and one of his best. 

The Town Hall (Broletto) adjoins the church. It is built 


THE ITALIAN LAKES. 


193 

of black and white stone, in alternate layers. The Theatre is 
on the other side of the church. 

The churches S. Fedele, loth century; Del Crocihsso, with 
miraculous crucifix; and S. Abondio, nth century, on outskirts 
of town, are worth visiting. 

Notice a massive ruined building, the Porta del Tozze. It is 
five stories high, and is passed in leaving the town to go towards 
Camerlata. 

From Como to Camerlata is a little more than a mile 
and a half. Omnibuses run to meet each train. 

THE LAKE OF LUGANO 

is sixteen miles by about two ; the scenery is varied and beau¬ 
tiful. It can be reached from Menaggio on Lake of Como, or 
Magadino or Luino, on the Lago Maggiore. 

Steamers run from Porlezzato Lugano (Hotel du Parc). 
Behind the latter town is Monte San Salvatore, scalable 
in two hours. The view is superb. 

Monte Generoso, called the Rigi of Italy, is best ascended 
from Mendrisio, on the road to Como. The view of the Italian 
lakes and the Alpine chain beyond is unrivalled. 

THE LAKE OF VARESE, 

reached either from Laveno (Lago Maggiore) or from Como, is 
about six miles by five. Varese (Hotel Varese) is the prin¬ 
cipal place, from which the chief excursion is to the pilgrimage 
church of La Madonna del Monte. 

THE LAKE OF ORTA 

is best reached by omnibus or diligence from Pallanza, Gravellona, 
or Arona. It is exceedingly pretty, eight miles long by nearly 
two broad. 

The principal thing to see at the quaint town of Orta is the 
Sacro Monte, sacred to S. Francis d’Assisi, with its twenty 
frescoed chapels, passed during the ascent. The island Of 
S. GiuliO is a delicious little spot. 

LAGO D’ISEO AND LAGO Dl GARDA 

are both within easy reach by diligence from Brescia. Both are 
very beautiful. Iseo is sixteen miles by two; the chief places 
are Sarnico, Iseo (named from a temple of Isis), and Lovere, 

13 


THE ITALIAN LAKES. 


194 


so enthusiastically described by Lady Mary Wortley Montagu. 
Lago di Garda is thirty-eight miles by six or seven, and appal¬ 
lingly deep, 1900 English feet having been fathomed in some 
places, and it may be found to be deeper yet. It is often assailed 
by storms, and is then as rough as the Mediterranean. 

Omnibuses run to the lake from Peschiera and Desenzano. 
Many very popular and charming places are located on its shore. 


(For fuller information as to the Italian Lakes, see Cook’s 
Tourist’s Handbook for Northern Italy.”) 






APPENDIX. 


♦ 


FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC. 

[Some time since, a good article in Macmillan^s Magazine called 
attention to the want of a Traveller’s Calendar, which should 
indicate the principal Festivals, etc., on the Continent of Europe. 
The present list is founded upon the data given in that article, 
and it is hoped it will be useful to the traveller. The Editor 
will feel much indebted to those of his friends who will kindly 
favour him with information of other events of interest to add to 


the list.] 


Place. 

Date. 

Adelsberg . 

Whit-Monday... 

Aix - la- Cha - 
pelle 

July 10-24 . 

Whitsun-week . 

Amsterdam ... 

2nd Monday in 
Sept. 

Annecy (Savoy) 

Jan. 29. 

Antwerp . 

Sunday follow¬ 
ing Aug. 15... 

Assisi . 

Aug. I and 2 ... 
Oct. 14 . 

Augsburg. 

April 10 . 

Avellino. 

Whit-Sunday ... 

Bari (S. Italy)... 

May. 

Basle . 

Aug. 26 . 

Batersalp(Swit- 

July 25th or Sun- 

zerland) . 

day following. 


Description. 

Peasants’ Ball in the Caverns. Illumi¬ 
nated. 

Exhibition of Relics in Cathedral every 
7 years. Next Exhibition, i88i. 

The “ Niederrheinische Musikfest.” 

Festivities of the Kermesse commence, 
and continue for a fortnight. 

Festival of St. Francis de Sales. 

Kermesse, Procession of Giant in 
Rubens’ Car. 

Carnival for three days preceding Ash- 
Wednesday. 

Grand Festivals. 

Festival of St. Francis. 

Commencement of Fair, which con¬ 
tinues for a fortnight. 

Pilgrimage to Monte Vergine. Popular 
Fetes. At Mercogliano, dances of 
peasants. (5 days.) 

.S’. Nicholas. Pilgrimage to shrine. 
Miraculous manna exuded. 

Commemoration of battle of St. 
Jacques. 

Wrestling Matches. 















APPENDIX. 



Place. 

Beaucaire (on 
Rhone) 

Bergamo . 

Black Forest. 

Bologna. 

Bra . 

Bremen. 

Bruges . 

Brussels. 


Cancello (S. 

Italy) 

Catania (Sicily) 

Coire (Chur) ... 
Cologne. 

Courtrai (Bel¬ 
gium) 

Einsiedeln 

(Switzerland) 


Engstlenalp 
(nr. Meiringen) 
Ennetegg (in 
the Entlebuch) 

Florence . 


Date. 

July. 

Middle Aug. to 
middle Sept. 
End Aug., be¬ 
ginning Sept. 

Dec. 3 .... 

Sept. 8. 

Nov. 6. 

1st Sun. in Lent 
1st Sun. in May 

Jan. 8 . 

July 13 or Sun¬ 
day following. 
Sept. 23 . 

July 26. 

Feb. 3-5 . 

Aug. 18-21 . 

Ascension Day . 

Whitsun-week . 


Jan. 21. 

Sept. 14. 

July 26th or Sun¬ 
day following. 
Lt. Sun. in Aug., 
istSun. inSep. 
Easter Eve. 

March 25 . 

June 23 . 

>) 24 . 

Aug. 10 . 

M IS . 

Sept. 8. 


Description. 

Great Fair. (Beaucaire is near Taras- 
con.) 

Fair. 

“Raft Parties” at Wildbad and else¬ 
where. 

AA Francis Xavier. Fete at Sta. Lucia. 

Pilgrimage to Sanctuary of Madonna 
dei Fiore. 

Festival. 

Great day of the Carnival. 

Festival. 

Ste. Gudule. Festival at Ste. Gudule. 

Procession of miraculous wafers in Ste. 
Gudule. 

Requiem Mass in Ste. Gudule. Fetes 
de Septembre from 23—26. 

Annual Festival in honour of S. Pau- 
linus, who invented church bells. 
Games, processions, etc. 

Festival of Sta. Agata. 

99 99 

Popular Fetes. 

Carnival for three days before Ash- 
Wednesday. 

The “ Neiderrheinische Musikfest.” 

Carnival for three days before Ash- 
Wed nesday. 

Festival of St. Meinrad. 

Festival of the Engel Weihe. Mass out 
of doors. Illuminations. 

Wrestling Matches. 

Wrestling Match. 

Fireworks in Piazza del Duomo. “ Lo 
scoppio del Carro.^^ 

Amiunciation. Festival at Annunziata 
Church. 

Eve of St. John. Races and Fireworks. 

St. John Baptist. High Mass in 
Duomo. Races. Illuminations. 

St. Lorenzo. Festival in all Churches in 
Italy bearing his name. 

Assumption of Virgin. Musical Ser¬ 
vices. Decorations. 

Nativity of Virgin. “ Rificolone,” and 
decoration of street altars. 

Carnival preceding Lent. 




























197 



FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC. 

Place. 

Date. 

Description. 

Genazzano 

(Sabine Hills) 

April 26 . 

Pilgrimages. 

Genoa . 

June 24 . 

St yohn Baptist. Relics carried in 
procession in Cathedral. 

Genzano (near 
Albano) 

Corpus Christ!. 

Floral Festival—very picturesque. 

Ghent. 

2nd Sunday in 

July. 

Festival. Kermesse. 

Gratz . 

Aug. 12 . 

Pilgrimage to Mariazell. 

Graviaa,(S. Italy) 

April 20 . 

Great Fair. 

Hal (Belgium)... 

Whit-Monday... 

Pilgrimages. 

Leipsic . 

Jan. I . 

Fair commences. 


Sept. 29 . 

Fair. 

Liege .• 

2nd Sunday after 
Easter. 

Great F air begins. Lasts three weeks. 

Feb. 10 . 

Musical Festival commemorating birth 
of Gretry. 

Locarno . 

Sept. 8. 

Nativity of Virgin. Fair. 

Loreto . 

Dec. 10 .. . 

Great Festival at the “ Holy House. 

Louvain . 

Feb. 9. 

St. Apollonia. Festival. 


May 26 . 

Pilgrimages. 


2nd Sunday in 

Festival. 

• 

July. 


Lucerne . 

Sunday after 

Festival at Tell’s Chapel. Crowds in 


Ascension. 

boats. 


Thursday before 
Ash-Wed. 

Quaint and curious procession. 

Lugo (near Ra¬ 
venna) 

Malines . 

Sept. 1-19 . 

Fair. 

July. 

Festival of the Guilds every five years.. 
Next in 1879. 


1st. Sun. in July 

St. Rombauld. Festival. 

Manfredonia 

(near Foggia) 

May 8. 

Pilgrimage to Church of St. Michael. 

Mantua . 

Aug. 15 . 

Assumption of Virgin. Pilgrimage to 
Sta. Maria delle Grazie. 

Marseilles. 

June 16 . 

Festival of Sacred Heart, commemo¬ 
rating the staying of the plague, 
1720. 


Aug. 15 . 

Assumption of the Virgin. Procession 
of the silver statue. 

Messina. 

June 3 . 

Festival of the Madonna della Lettera. 


Aug. 15 . 

Assumption of Virgin. Festival of “ La 
Vara.’’ 

Meiringen. 

1st Sunday in 

Wrestling matches at the Stadtalp, and 

August. 

on Aug. 10 at the Tannalp. 

Milan . 

May 3. 

Invention of the Cross. Procession 
through the city. 


Nov. 4. 

San Carlo Borromeo. Grand Fete, 


Carnival. Preceding Lent 





































198 


APPENDIX. 


Place. 

Date. 

Moncalieri 

(near Turin) 

Munich . 

Oct. 29. Nov. 
14 - 

Monday before 
Ash-Wed. 
Good Friday. 


Corpus Christi. 

Naples. 

1st Sun. in May 
Sept. 19 to 26 . 

Dec. 16 . 

1st Sun. in June 


Aug. 15 . 


Ascension Day. 
Corpus Christi. 


Jan. 17 . 


Sept. 8 . 


Dec. 24 . 

Nepomuk. 

Whit-Sunday ... 
Whit-Monday... 
Easter Sunday . 
May 16 . 

Nivello (Belgium) Whit-Monday... 
Ober-Ammer- ist Sunday in 


gau 

June 

Cstend . 

Corpus Christi . 

Padua . 

• •• Jan. 17 . 

Palermo. 

••• Julyii-15 . 


Sept. 4 . 

Paris. 

. ••• Jan. I . 


Nov. 2 . 

Pesth . 

... Aug. 20 . 

Pisa . 

,... June 16 . 


Description. 

Cattle Fair. 

The “ Metzersprung —a curious per¬ 
formance. 

Pergolesi’s Stabat Mater at Jesuits* 
Church. 

Procession of Guilds. Open-air ser¬ 
vices. 

Liquefaction of Blood of St. Januarius. 

,, ,, Great Festival. 

,, Feast of his “ Patrocinio” 

Festival of the Constitution. Fireworks 
at Villa Nazionale. 

Assumption of Virgin. Festival at 
Capodimonte. 

„ ,, Pilgrimage 

to Massa Lubrense, near Sorrento. 

Fetes at Scarfati and Carditello. 

Festival at Sta. Chiara. Parade of 
troops. 

Feste di St. Antonio Abate. Blessing 
of domestic animals. 

Nativity of Virgin. Festival of the 
Vergine de Piedegrotta. A variety 
of curious entertainments, including 
the Tarantella dance. 

“ Presepe” manger) in all churches 
and houses. 

Festival at Avellino. 

,, Shrine of Madonna dell* Arco. 

Pilgrimage to Antignano. 

Pilgrimage to birthplace of St. John 
Nepomuk (between Prague and Nu¬ 
remberg). 

Procession. 

And each succeeding Sunday till end of 
September. Passion Play. Every 10 
years. Next representation, 1880. 

Blessing the sea. 

St. Anthony. Festival. 

Festival of Sta. Rosalia. Cathedral 
illuminated on last day of festival. 

Pilgrimage to Monte Pellegrino. 

Circumcision. General holiday. Dis¬ 
play of etrennes. 

All Souls\ Crowds visit Pfere la Chaise. 

Festival of St. Stephen of Hungary. 

Festival of “ La Luminara.*’ Once in 
three years. 
























FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC. 


199 


Place. 

Prague 


Rap alio 

Genoa) 

Rigi . 


(near 


Rome 


Date. Description. 

May 16-24 . John Nepomuk. Grand Festival. 

Pilgrimages. Mass on great bridge. 

Sept. 28 . Festival of St. Wenceslaus. 

July 2-4 . .. Festival of Madonna dell’ Orto. Il¬ 

lumination of the coast. 

July 22 .. Pilgrimage to church on Rigi. Wrest¬ 

ling Matches. 

Aug. 5. Pilgrimage to Chapel Maria Zum 

Schnee, Klosterli. 

Sept. 6 . ,, „ ,, 

Aug. 10 . Wrestling Matches at Kaltbad. 

[Note.—M any of the festivals have been altered, aban¬ 
doned, or become irregular, since Rome has become 
the capital of Italy. Those marked with an asterisk 
are still observed with great pomp. ] 

Jan. I . Circumcision. “ Papal Chapel” (f.i?., ser¬ 

vice at which the Pope is present) at 
the Sistine. Curious ceremony at 
Sta, Maria in Campitelli—drawing 
for patron saints. 

,, 5 . Fair of the Befano. St. Eustachio. 

,, 6 . Epiphany. Ara Coeli Church ; pro¬ 

cession. Benediction with the Sante 
Bambino from top of steps. Services in 
various churches throughout octave. 

17 . St. Anthony’s Day. Blessing the beasts. 

,, 18 . Chair of St. Peter. Procession with 

Pope, in St. Peter’s. 

„ 20 . St. Sebastian. Festival at Sant’ Andrea 

della Valle. 

,, 21 . *St. Agnes. Blessing the lambs, at Sta. 

Agnese fuori Mura. 

,,25 . * Conversion of St. Paul. Exhibition of 

his chains at San Paolo. 

Feb. I . *St. Ignatius. The interesting subter¬ 

ranean Church of San Clemente 
illuminated. 

,, 2. Purification. Procession with candles 

in St. Peter’s. 

March 9 . Sta. Francesca Romana. Fete at the 

Tor de’ Specchi. 

,, 12 . St. Gregory. Festival at S. Gregorio. 

,, 19 . St. Joseph. Festival of S. Giuseppe. 

25 . * Annunciation. Papal Chapel. Pro¬ 

cession of white mule. Sta. Maria 
sopra Minerva. 

April 23 . St. George. Exhibition of relics. S. 

Giorgio in Velabro. 

,, 25 . Mark. Procession from St. Mark’s 

to St. Paul’s. 




























200 


APPENDIX. 


Place. 

* 

Bom© . 


Date. Description. 

April 30. Si. Catherine. Festival at the Minerva. 

May 3 . Invention of the Cross. Exhibition of 

relics at Sante Croce. 

,, 26 .. *St. Filippo Neri. Papal Chapel, Chiesa 

Nuova. (The rooms occupied by the 
saint are open on this day.) 

June 24 . *St. John Baptist. Papal Chapel at the 

Lateran. Fine musical service, and 
on previous evening. 

,, 28 ... Eve of St. Peter. Papal Chapel, St. 

Peter’s. Dome illuminated. 

„ 29 . *St. Peter. The Pope performs High 


Mass in St. Peter’s. At Lateran 
exhibition of relics. Fireworks on 
Monte Pincio, etc. 

Throughout the octave the Mamertine 
Prisons are illuminated. 


June 31 . St. Ignatius Loyola. Festival at the 

Gesu. 

Aug. I . *St. Peter’s Chains. • Festival at S. 

Pietro in Vinculi. 

,, 4 . St. Dominic. Fete at the Minerva. 

,, 5 . Sta. Maria ad Nives. Cardinal’s Chapel 


{i.e., service at which the Cardinal 
is present) at Sta. Maria Maggiore. 
During the function white flowers are 
showered from the roof of the Bor- 
ghese Chapel. 


15 . * Assumption of the Virgin. Sta. Maria 

Maggiore. High Mass, in presence of 
the Pope. Benediction from balcony. 

Sept. 8 . * Nativity of Virgin. PapaJ Chapel at 

Sta. Maria del Popolo. 

1 st Sunday in Rosary Sunday. Procession from the 
October. Minerva. Fetes, etc., throughout the 

month on Sundays and Thursdays at 
Monte Testaccio. 

Nov. I . *All Saints. Feast at S. Lorenzo. 

Curious scenes in the cemeteries 
throughout the octave. 

4 •• . San Carlo Borromeo. Papal Chapel at 

San Carlo in Corso. 

22 . *Sta. Cecilia. Festival at Sta. Cecilia. 

Illumination of Catacomb of St. 
Calixtus, where St. Cecilia was 
buried. 

»• ^3 . *St. Clemente. Festival and illumina¬ 

tions, Subterranean Church of S. 
Clemente. 

3 . St. Francis Xavior. Fete at the Gesu. 




















FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC. 


201 


Place. 

Rome ... 


Date. Description. 

Dec. 4. Military Mass at Sta. Maria Transpon- 

tina. Fete of artillerymen. 

8... Immaculate Conception. Papal Chapel 

in the Sistine. 

j5 24. Christmas Eve. Procession of Holy 

crib in Sta. Maria Maggiore. Night 
services at Sistine, Vatican, etc. 

25. Christmas Day. Pope performs High 

Mass at St. Peter’s. Festival of the 
“ Presepe ” at the Ara Coeli. Ser¬ 
mons by boys for ten subsequent 
days. 


,, 26. St. Stephen. Fete, San Stefano Ro- 

tondo. “ Te Deum ” at the Gesu. 
Pope and Cardinals present. 

,, 27. St. John the Evangelist. St. John 

Lateran. 

,, 31. Sylvester. At his church, and “Te 

Deum at the Gesu. 


Holy Week ... Noble ladies wash the feet of pilgrims 

each evening at the Trinita dei Pelle¬ 
grini. 

Wednesday. The “ Tenebrae”—an in¬ 
teresting service, at which the lights 
are gradually extinguished while the 
story of the Passion is rehearsed. 
Miserere” sung in the Sistine Chapel. 
Pope present. 

Thursday. Sistine Chapel, High Mass. 
Procession of the Pope to the Pauline 
Chapel, which is illuminated. St. 
Peter’s—the Pope blesses the people 
from the balcony : washes the feet 
of thirteen priests ; serves thirteen 
priests at table. “Tenebrae” and 
‘ ‘ Miserere ” in Sistine. Illumination 
tion of various chapels. 

Good Friday. “ Tenebrae” and “ Mise¬ 
rere.” Adoration of relics in St. 
Peter’s by the Pope. 

Saturday. Jews baptized in baptistery 
of Constantine. In the evening, ser¬ 
vice at St. Peter’s. 

Easter Sunday. Pope borne to St. Peter’s, where he 

celebrates Mass. Blowing of the 
silver trumpets. Benediction from 
balcony. Illumination of dome. 










202 


APPENDIX. 


Place. 
Rome .... 


Date. 

Easter Monday. 
Carnival . 


Description. 

Fetes, fireworks, etc. 

Begins Saturday-week before Ash Wed¬ 
nesday, and continues till Shrove 
Tuesday. Masquerades and horse¬ 
racing daily. On the last evening, 
lighting and blowing out tapers. 
Ashes are sprinkled on the heads of the 
Cardinals in St. Peter’s. High Mass. 
Exhibition of relics at San Lorenzo. 

Feast of the Santa Quattro Incoronati 
at their Basilica. 

The Pope carried round St. Peter’s. 

Consecration of Palms. 

Processions. 

Papal Chapel at Lateran. Benediction 
by the Pope from the balcony. 

[The Great National Festas, celebrated with music, 
illuminations, etc., etc., are— 

1st Sunday in Celebration of the Constitution. 

June. 

Sept. 20. Anniversary of the Liberation of Rome. 

Processions, etc. 

Oct. 2. Anniversary of the Plebiscite. 

Etc., etc., etc. 


Ash Wednesday 

3rd Sunday in 
Lent. 

4th Monday in 
Lent. 

Palm Sunday ... 

Rogation Days. 
Ascension Day. 


[Every visitor should consult the Calendar, and also local authorities, as 
there is scarcely a day when there is not some ecclesiastical celebra¬ 
tion of interest going forward somewhere in Rome. ] 


Sachseln . July 26 

Sehopfheim June 29 


(Switzerland) 

Sept. 29 . 

1st Sunday in 
Oct. 

Seealp (near July 6 . 

Appenzel) 

Sempach (near ,, 8 .. 

Lucerne) 

Siena . April 30. 

July 2 & Aug. 16 

Sinigaglia October . 

(S. Italy) 

Sorrento . Aug. 15 . 

Spezia. „ . 


Wrestling Matches. (Sachseln is near 
Sanden, on the Brunig, Switzerland.) 

Wrestling Matches. 

99 99 

99 9 9 

Or Sunday following that date. Wrest¬ 
ling Matches. 

Commemoration of victory on battle¬ 
field. 

S/. Catherine. Festival. 

Horse Races (II Palio). 

Great Fair. 

Fete at S. Maria a Gastello. Illumina¬ 
tion of Positano. 

Assumption of Virgin. Festival at the 
Church of the Madonna di Soviore. 



















203 


FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC. 


Place. 

Date. 

St. Moritz 

Sent. 21 . 

(Switzerland) 


» 22. 

Stadtalp (near 

I St Sunday in 

Meiringen) 

Aug. 

Stuttgart . 

Sept. 28 . 

Tannalp (near 

Aug. 10 . 

Meiringen) 

Tivoli . 

May 8. 

Trent (Trento) 

June 26 . 

Trieste. 

Corpus Christi 

Turin . 

Sept. 8. 

Uetliborg (Zii- 

Ascension Day 

, rich) 

Varallo (Lake of 

Aug. 15 . 

Orta) 

Venice . 

April 25 . 

Vienna. 

May I . 

June 28 . 

• 

July 6 . 

Sept. 4 . 


Good Friday ... 
Easter Eve. 


Vire (Normandy) 
Vlaardingen 
(Holland) 


Wengern Alp 
Ypres (Belgium) 


Easter Monday. 
Corpus Christi. 

Aug. lo . 

June 14 . 

„ 15 . 

1st Sunday in 
Aug. 

I St Sunday in 
Aug. 


Description. 

Illuminations. 

Festival and High Mass at Abbey of 
St. Moritz. 

Wrestling Match. 

Volksfest at Cannstadt. 

Wrestling Match. 

S. Michele. Festival. 

Festival of S. Vigilius. 

Processions. Festivals. 

Nativity of Virgin. Festival on the 
Superga. 

Children’s Fete. 

Assumption of Virgin. Pilgrimage to 
the Sacro Monte. 

St. Mark's. Grand Festival. 

[Festivals on all the Saints’ Days, and 
a variety of Fetes of local interest.] 

Popular Fete in the Augarten. 

Pilgrims leave for Mariazell (reached 
from Briick on the Semmering Rail¬ 
way). 

Pilgrims return from Mariazell. 

Sta. Rosalia. Pilgrimage to Rosalien 
Chapel. 

Public Holiday at Mariabrunn, a short 
distance from Vienna. 

Holy Sepulchre in all the Churches. 

Great Procession of the Court in Im¬ 
perial Palace. 

Pilgrimage to Antignano. 

Processions, Festivals, etc. 

Fete des Drapiers. 

Prayers for success of the herring fishery. 

General Holiday. Fleet of herring 
boats set sail. 

Wrestling Match. 

F estival. 


























204 


APPENDIX. 


SWISS ELEVATIONS. 

The following is a comparative account of the height (in feet 

above the sea level) of some of the well-known places in 

Switzerland referred to in the present work ;— 

Piz Languard ... ... ... 10,715 

Corner Grat ... ... ... 10,290 

Faulhorn ... ... ... ... 8,803 

Riffel Hotel ... ... ... 8,428 

Lauberhorn ... ... ... 8,120 

Furca ... ... ... ... 7j992 

Grimsel ... ... ... ... 7,936 

Rothhom ... ... ... ... 7,917 

Niesen ... ... ... ... 7,763 

Bernina Pass ... ... ... 7,658 

Albula Pass ... ... ... 7,589 

Julier Pass ... ... ... ... 7,503 

Spliigen Pass ... ... ... 6,945 

St. Gothard Pass ... ... ... 6,936 

Bellevue Hotel, Wengern Alp ... 6,788 

Engadine ... ... ... ... 6,100 

Rigi ... ... ... ... 5,905 

Rhone Glacier (lower) ... ... 5,742 

Miirren ... ... ... ... 5,347 

Zermatt ... ... ... ... 5,315 

Rosenlaui Glacier ... ... ... 5,027 

Andermatt... ... ... ... 4,900 

Maderaner Thai ... ... ... 4,500 

Comballaz ... ... ... ... 4,416 

Rosenlaui ... ... ... ... 4,397 

Tete Noire Hotel ... ... ... 4,003 

Grindelwald ... ... ... 3,773 

Chamouny ... ... ... ... 3,445 

Brunig Pass ... ... ... 3,379 

Engelberg ... ... ... ... 3,291 

Lauterbrunnen ... ... ... 2,730 

Meiringen ... ... ... ... 2,224 

Interlaken ... ... ... ... 1,837 

Lucerne ... ... ... ... i,437 

Geneva ... ... ... ... 1,230 











IMPORTANT NOTICE. 


Thomas Cook and Son^s tickets are available fir 
one or more passengers to travel by any train any day, and 
do not compel the holders to travel in parties. 




TIME AND COST OF A TOUR. 

I N order to help the Tourist to arrange a route, to show how 
time may be economized, and, above all, to give him some 
notion as to the approximate COST of a tour to Switzerland, 
we append a few examples. It must be borne in mind, however, 
that the costs of travelling are liable to constant change, and 
therefore the Tourist will do well to consult the last number of 
“ Cook’s Excursionist ” (published monthly, price 2d .); or, if 
he cannot from that source obtain the exact inforrnation re¬ 
quired, if the precise itinerary of the tour contemplated be for¬ 
warded to Messrs. CoOK & SON, Chief Office, Ludgate Circus, 
E.C., with stamped directed envelope for a reply, a special 
quotation will be sent by first post. 

In CALCULATING EXPENSES, nothing will be said here about 
hotel accommodation, or about the luxuries of travel. Of 
course, it depends entirely on the taste of the individual, and 
his habits, as to whether expenses in this respect be great or 
small. What we wish to denote is the actual travelling expense 
and the actual expenditure of time, necessary for a tour in 
Switzerland. A tour may be a very expensive matter as regards 
time and money, if the traveller thinks well to make it so ; but 
this is by no means a necessity. A fortnight, three weeks, or 
a month, will suffice, as regards time ; and the travelling 
expenses will be within the means of all ordinary Tourists. 
Full particulars as to hotel accommodation will be found on 
p. 218. 



SPECIMENS OF TOURS. 


207 

Whenever in the following illustrations guides or carriages 
are mentioned, the expense is not included in the estimate 
given, except in the case of the T^te Noire or Col de Balme. 

Route No. I. A Fourteen Days’ Tour. 

Allowing time to visit Geneva, Chamouny, Mont Blanc. 

Jst day.— London to Paris, via Calais, 11 hours. 

7 .nd day. —Paris to Geneva, 135 hours. 

'yrd day. —At Geneva. 

4M day. —Trip on the Lake. 

^th day. — Geneva to Chamouny by diligence. 

6 th day. — Chamouny. Ascend to Montanvert; cross the Mer 
de Glace to the Chapeau ; descend to source of the Arveiron. 
(Guide over Mer de Glace ; trifling fee.) 

^th day. —At Chamouny. 

Zth day. —Chamouny to Martigny, by the Tete Noire or Col 
de Balme.* 

()th day. —Visit Gorge du Trient; rail to Lausanne. 
day. —Lausanne and environs. 

wth day. —Lausanne to Berne, breaking the journey in order 
to spend a few hours at Fribourg. 

iith day. —Berne to Neuchatel, hours. 

I'^th day. — Neuchatel to Paris. 

\^th day. —Paris to London. 

Approximate cost: First class throughout, ;^ii los. ; second 
class, ^9. 


Route No. 11. A Fortnight’s Tour. 

Allowing time to visit the finest scenery of the Bernese 

Oberland. 

ist day .—Leave London for Paris by morning train, 11 
hours, via Calais. 


* Ingoing to Martigny from Chamouny the T^te Noire is the preferable 
route. From Martigny to Chamouny the Col de Balme is recommended. 




2 o8 


APPENDIX. 


2 nd day .—Paris to Basle by Troyes and Mulhouse, I2| 
hours. 

'^^rd day .—Explore Basle in early morning ; then Basle to 
Lucerne, 3| hours. 

^th day .—In Lucerne (ascend Rigi or Pilatus). 

^th day .—Tour of the Lake of Lucerne. 

6 th day .—Lucerne to Meiringen, over the Briinig Pass. 

^th day .—On foot to Falls of the Reichenbach, Rosenlaui 
Glacier, Great Scheideck, Grindelwald, Little Scheideck. 

8M day .—Wengern Alp, Lauterbrunnen and Staubbach 
Falls ; carriage from thence to Interlaken. 

<^th day .—Spend morning in Interlaken; return ticket to 
Brienz, to visit Falls of the Giessbach. 

\oth day .—Interlaken to Darligen by train ; Darligen to 
Thun by boat; Thun to Berne by rail. 

wth day .—In Berne. 

\2th day .—Berne to Geneva, breaking journey at Fribourg 
or Lausanne, 5 hours. 

13//^ day .—In Geneva. 

14//? day .—To Paris. 

\^th day .—Paris to London. 

Approximate cost: First class throughout, about 
second class, ^8 I os. 

No provision is made in this estimate for mule, or other means of con¬ 
veyance from Meiringen to Interlaken. 


Route No. III. A Fortnight’s Tour. 

\st day .—London to Paris (via Dieppe). 

2nd day .—Paris to Basle. 

yrd ^^/.—Basle to Schaffhausen, 3^ hours; Falls of the 
Rhine. 

\th day .—Schaffhausen to Constance, 2 hours; Lake of 
Constance. 

5/^ day .—To Zurich, choice of routes. 

6 th day .—At Zurich. 



SPECIMENS OF TOURS. 


209 


^th Zurich to Lucerne, 2 hours ; at Lucerne. 

8M day .—Trip on Lake of Lucerne to Fliielen and back. 

^th day .—Lucerne to Brienz; over the Briinig Pass ; stay at 
Falls of the Giessbach. 
loth day. —Interlaken. 

lUh day .—Rail to Darligen ; steamboat on Lake of Thun ; 
rail to Berne. 

12/i^ day .—In Berne. 

13M Rail to Paris by Neuchatel, Pontarlier, and 
Dijon. 

14M day.—r\n Paris. 
i^th day .—To London. 

Cost: First class throughout, 7s. ; second class, 15s. 


Route No. IV. A Three Weeks’ Tour, 

Visiting Falls of the Rhine, Bernese Oberland, Chamouny, 

and Mont Blanc. 

ist and 2 nd days. —London to Basle (via Dieppe and Paris). 
y'd day. —Basle to Schaffhausen. 

^th day. —Schaffhausen to Zurich. 

^th day. —Ziirich to Lucerne. 

6M day. —Ascend Rigi. 

^th day. —Trip on Lake to Fliielen and back. 

Zth day. —From Lucerne to Meiringen, by the Briinig Pass. 
()th day. —On foot to Falls of Reichenbach,Rosenlaui Glacier, 
Great Scheideck, Grindelwald, and Little Scheideck. 

10/^ day. —Wengern Alp, Lauterbrunnen (see Staubbach 
Falls) : carriage from thence to Interlaken. 

wth day. —In Interlaken. Falls of Giessbach. 

\2th day. —Rail to Darligen ; boat to Thun; rail to Berne. 
13M day. —To Lausanne, visiting Fribourg, en route, 
i^th day. —Trip on Lake to visit Vevey; Chillon ; thence to 
Bouveret for Martigny; stop en route to visit Gorge du Trient. 

i^th day. —Martigny to Chamouny by Col de Balme, or Tete 
Noire. 


14 



210 


APPENDIX. 


i6M day.—h!i Chamouny. 

I y/A Diligence to Geneva. 

\%th day —Geneva. 

19M day. —Geneva. 

2 oth day .—To Paris. 

'list day .—To London. 

Cost: First class throughout, 19s.; second class, 

^10 8s. 


Route No. V. A Three Weeks’ Tour, 

Visiting Belgium, the Rhine, and Switzerland. 

Leave London for Antwerp by evening train ; arrive there in 
early morning of 

\st day. —At Antwerp. 

2nd day. —To Brussels, 2 hours. Brussels. 

'^rd day. —Trip to Waterloo, etc. 

\th day. —Brussels to Cologne, 7 hours. 

^th day, —Up the Rhine to Bingen or Mayence. 

(>th day. —To Heidelberg. 

Tth day. —Baden-Baden. 

Zth day. —To Strassburg ; visit Cathedral, etc., and then pro¬ 
ceed to Basle. 

()th day. —At Basle. 

10/^ day. —Basle to Lucerne, 3^ hours. Lucerne. 
iith day. —Lucerne ; trip on Lake to Fliielen and back. 

\2th day. —Lucerne ; ascend Rigi or Pilatus, etc. 

\jyth day.—Yxom Alpnach to Brienz by diligence ; steamer 
from Brienz to Giessbach ; stay night there, and see the Falls 
illuminated. 

i/^th day. —Steamer to Interlaken. 

\^th day.PiX Interlaken ; trip to Grindelwald, etc. 
i 6 th Interlaken to Berne. 

17//? day. —Berne to Lausanne. 

. iZth day. —Ouchy to Geneva by boat. 

19M day. —Geneva. 



SPECIMENS OF TOURS. 


211 


2o//j! a^aj'.—To Paris. 

2is/ day. —To London, via Calais. 

Cost : First class throughout, £14. ; second class, 


Route No. VI. A Three Weeks’ Tour, 

Visiting Belgium, the Rhine, and Switzerland. 

1st day to loth day. —As in Route V. 

11 th day.— Ascend Rigi, etc. 

\2th day .—Lucerne to Fliielen by steamboat; diligence to 
Andermatt. 

13/^ day. —By the Furca Pass to Brigue ; rail to Martigny. 
14M day. —By the Col de Balme or Tete Noire to Chamouny. 
I ^th day. —At. Chamouny. 

\(ith day. —At Chamouny. 

i^th day. —To Geneva, by diligence. 

\%th day. —Geneva. 

i^th day, —Trip on the Lake of Geneva. 

2Qth day. —To Paris. 

2ii-/ day. —To London, via Calais. 

Approximate cost : First class, ;^i5 ; second class, £\\ i8s. 


Route No. VII. A Month’s Tour, 
Visiting the principal places in Switzerland leisurely. 

Same as Route No, IV. 

Cost, same as Route No IV. 


Route No. VIII. A Month’s Tour, 

Including a visit to the principal places in Switzerland and the 

Italian Lakes. 

ist day.—To Paris (via Calais). 

2nd aay. —To Basle. 





212 


APPENDIX. 


y'd day .—To Schaffhausen. 

4^ day. —Zurich. 

^th day .—By rail to Coire. 

6M day .—Diligence to Chiavenna, over the Spliigen. 

'jth day .—Chiavenna to Colico, diligence ; Colico to Bellaggio 
by steamer. 

%th day .—At Bellaggio. 

()th day .—To Como. 

\oth day .—To Menaggio, boat; and Lugano (Lake of 
Lugano), diligence. 

iith day ,—Lugano to Luino, diligence; thence to Laveno, 
Baveno, or Stresa, on the Lago Maggiore. 

I2th atid 13M days .—Still in the same neighbourhood. 

14/^ and i^th days .—From Baveno, by the Simplon Pass, to 
Brigue. 

16th day .—Rail to Martigny. 

17M day .—By Col de Balme to Chamouny. 

\%th day .—At Chamouny. 

\c)th day .—At Chamouny. 

'loth day .—Diligence to Geneva. 

'list day. —Geneva. 

iindday .—Lake of Geneva to Lausanne. 

'I'^rdday.—To Berne. 

24th day .—Lake of Thun to Interlaken. 

2^th day .—Interlaken ; boat to Giessbach Falls. 

26th day .—Over the Briinig to Lucerne. 

2'jth day. —Lucerne. (If there should be thirty-one days in 
the month spend two days here.) 

2Zth day .—To Basle. 

2<^th day .—To Paris, 

'yoth day .—To London. 

Cost: First class throughout, for one calendar month, 
/18 us.; second class, ^15 los. 



SPECIMENS OF TOURS. 


2 


Route No. IX. A Four Weeks’ Tour, 

Visiting Holland, Belgium, the Rhine, Black Forest, and 
principal places in Switzerland. 

Leave London by evening train for Antwerp, arriving there in 
early morning of 

ij/ day. —Antwerp. 

2 nd day. —Antwerp. 

^^rd day. —To Brussels, 2 hours. 

Brussels ; drive to Waterloo, or train. 

^th day. —Brussels to Cologne, 7 hours. 

6 th day. —Up the Rhine; ascend Drachenfels; stay at 
Coblenz. 

']thday. — Up the Rhine: to Bingen or Mayence, breaking 
journey at St. Goar. 

Zth day. —To Heidelberg, by rail. 

<^th day. —Baden-Baden. 


In Black Forest. Take Baden-States rail from 
Offenburg to Hausach, Villingen, Singen, and 
Schaffhausen. 



r 


\2th day. —Schaffhausen. 

13M day. —Zurich. 

14/^ day. —Zurich to Zug and Lucerne. 

15M day. —Lucerne. Ascend to Rigi or Pilatus. 

\6th day. —Lake of Lucerne to Alpnacht. Diligence to 
Brienz and steamer to Giessbach. 

\']th day. —Giessbach to Interlaken and Berne. 

18M day. —Berne to Martigny. 

19M day. — Over the Col de Balme to Chamouny. 

20th Chamouny. 

2\st Chamouny. 

Diligence to Geneva. 

2ird Geneva. 

2\th day. —Trip on Lake of Geneva. 


APPENDIX. 


214 


'i^th day .—Geneva to Neuchatel. 

26//? day .—To Paris. 

T]th day .—In Paris. 

28M day .— 

2^ih day .— f To London. 
day .— 3 

Fares : First class, ^13 19s.; second class, ;^ii 14s. 


Having now shown how to plan a tour for a given time, it 
may assist the intending tourist to show a few other specimens 
taken at random from a great number of combinations provided 
by the tickets of Thomas Cook and Son. It should be clearly 
understood that these are but specimens, and are in nowise 
arbitrary arrangements, as the traveller can be supplied with 
tickets throughout, for any other route he may have decided to 
follow. 

It is the more necessary to point this out as, formerly, a book 
of tickets issued by Thomas Cook and Son necessitated a 
continuous journey in the order of issue. This is not now the 
case. Take, for example, a point connected with the Bernese 
Oberland. Formerly they had no tickets which would har¬ 
moniously combine the Rhone Valley with the lines leading to 
Interlaken, Lauterbmnnen, and Grindelwald. They are now 
able to supply tickets from various points—Geneva, Berne, or 
Basle to Interlaken ; from thence travellers may make their own 
way over the range of the Alps by the Baths of Leuk, or any 
other Alpine route which they desire to take to the Rhone 
Valley, where the tickets again come into operation, taking them 
up the valley of the Rhone to the Furca or Simplon Pass, or to 
Martigny, St. Bernard, and the Chamouny district. The great 
advantage of this system is that there need be no unused cou¬ 
pons, and that the selection may be made in accordance with 
the wishes of the traveller ; and, in the event of a coupon not 
being required, it will be taken back subject to the conditions on, 
which unused tickets are accepted. It may be well just to men¬ 
tion that their list of tickets for Switzerland, including railways, 
steamboats on the lakes, and diligences on the Alpine roads 



SPECIMENS OF TOURS. 


215 


leading into Ita y, amounts to the number of about threescore 
and ten, and these can be combined for the selection and choice 
of travellers, on certain conditions as to the number of coupons 
which they will be required to take. 


Paris and Switzerland. 

A. —London to Paris, Dijon, Macon, Culoz, Geneva, and 
back. Available for one month. Going and returning via 
Dieppe: ist class, ^8 19s.; 2nd class, £6 12s. Going and 
returning via Calais : ist class, ^10 19s.; 2nd class, £7 i8s. 

B. —London to Paris, Dijon, Pontarlier, Neuchdtel, Berne, 
Fribourg, Lausanne, Geneva, Culoz, Dijon, Paris, and London, 
or vice versa. Available for one month. Via Dieppe : 1st class, 
£7 i6s.: 2nd class, £^ 15s. Via Calais: ist class, £<^ i6s. 
2nd class, £7 iis. 

C. —London to Paris, Dijon, Pontarlier, Neuchatel, Berne, 
Lausanne, Vevey, Martigny, Tete Noire or Col de Balme to 
Chamouny (one mule or one guide), thence diligence via Sal- 
lanches to Geneva, rail to Culoz, Dijon, Paris, London, or vice 
versa. Available for one month. Via Dieppe: ist class, ^9 7s. ; 
2nd class, £7 4s. Via Calais: ist class, ^ii 7s.; 2nd class, 

^9. 

D. —London to Paris, Fontainebleau, Dijon, Macon, Culoz, 
Geneva, Lausanne, Fribourg, Berne, Thun, Interlaken, Brienz, 
Briinig, Alpnach, Lucerne, Olten, Bienne. Neuchatel, Pontarlier, 
Dijon, Paris, London, or vice versa. Available for one month. 
Via Dieppe : ist class, ^9 6s.; 2nd class, £(i 17s. Via Calais : 
ist class, ;^ii IS. ; 2nd class, £8 13s. 

E. —London to Paris, Belfort, Basle, Lucerne, Alpnach, 
Briinig, Brienz, Giessbach, Interlaken, Thun, Berne, Lausanne, 
Geneva, Culoz, Dijon, Paris, London, or vice versa. Available 
for one month. Via Dieppe: ist class, £8 17s.; 2nd class, 
£(i 14s. Via Calais : ist class, £10 i6s.; 2nd class, £8 9s. 


APPENDIX. 


216 

F. —London to Paris, Belfort, Basle, Lucerne, Alpnach, 
Briinig, Brienz, Giessbach, Interlaken, Thun, Berne, Lausanne, 
Vevey, Martigny, Tete Noire or Col de Balme, Chamouny, 
Geneva, Culoz, Dijon, Paris, London, or vice versa. Available 
for one month. Via Dieppe : ist class, ;^lo 8s.; 2nd class, 
£Z 3s. 6d. Via Calais : ist class, ^12 8s.; 2nd class, 19s. 6d. 

G. —London to Paris, Belfort, Basle, Lucerne, Fliielen, Hos- 
penthal, Furca Pass, Brigue, Visp, Sierre, Martigny, Tete Noire 
or Col de Balme, Chamouny, Geneva, Culoz, Dijon, Paris, 
London, or vice versa. Available for one month. Via Dieppe : 
1st class, £\\ 16s. 6d. ; 2nd class, £() 9s. 6d. Via Calais : ist 
class, ^13 i6s. 6d.; 2nd class, ^ii 5s. 6d. 

H. — London, Paris, Dijon, Pontarlier, Neuchatel, Berne, 
Thun, Interlaken, Brienz, Briinig, Alpnach, Lucerne, Fliielen, 
Hospenthal, Furca, Brigue, Visp, Sierre, Martigny, Tete Noire 
or Col de Balme, Chamouny, Geneva, Culoz, Dijon, Paris, 
London, or vice versa. Available for one month. Via Dieppe : 
1st class, ^ii IIS.; 2nd class, ;^9 8s. Via Calais: ist class, 
^13 los.; 2nd class, ^ii 4s. 


The Rhine, Black Forest, and Switzerland. 

1 .—London, Harwich, Antwerp, Brussels, Cologne, Rhine 
steamer to Mayence, Worms, Heidelberg, Baden-Baden, Offen- 
bufg, Hausach, Villingen, Singen, Schaffhausen, Zurich, Zug, 
Lucerne, Alpnach, Brienz, Interlaken, Thun, Berne, Fribourg, 
Lausanne, Geneva, Paris, Rouen, Dieppe, London, or vice versa. 
ist class, ;^ii 19s. 6d.; 2nd class, £% i8s. 9d. 

Same route between Brussels and Paris, but going and 
returning via Calais: ist class, ^14 los. 6d. ; 2nd class, 
^ii os. 9d. 

Going via General Steam Navigation Company’s route to 
Antwerp : ist class, ^ii 8s. 9d.; 2nd class, ^9 os. 9d. 


SPECIMENS OF TOURS. 


217 


Paris, the Black Forest, Switzerland, and the 

Jura. 

K. — London, Newhaven, Dieppe, Paris, Nancy, Strassburg, 
Kehl, Offenburg, Villingen, Singen, Constance, Rorschach, St. 
Gall, Winterthur, Ziirich, Zug, Lucerne, Bernese Oberland, 
Berne, Bienne, Chaux de Fonds, Neuchatel, Pontarlier, Dijon, 
Paris, Rouen, Dieppe, London, or vice versa. Available for two 
mofiths. 1st class, ^ii los.; 2nd class, 2s. 

Same route beyond Paris, but going and returning via Dover 
and Calais : ist class, £1^ 5s.; 2nd class, £10 15s. 

Luxemburg, Black Forest, Switzerland, and Paris. 

L. —London, Harwich, Antwerp, Brussels, Luxemburg, Metz, 
Strassburg, Kehl, Offenburg, Villingen, Singen, Schaffhausen, 
Winterthur, Ziirich, Zug, Lucerne, Alpnach, Brienz, Interlaken, 
Thun, Berne, Fribourg, Lausanne, Geneva, Culoz, Macon, Dijon, 
Paris, Rouen, Dieppe, Newhaven, London, or vice versa, ist 
class, ^ii 13s.; 2nd class, ^8 12s. 

Going to Brussels via Calais ; returning from Paris via Calais 
and Dover; same route between Brussels and Paris, ist class, 
;^I3 19s. 6d.; 2nd class, ^10 13s. 6d. 

Many “ CIRCULAR Tours ” are issued in combination with 
those quoted above. Take Tour B for example. It only takes 
the traveller within sight of Mont Blanc. But by combining 
with that tour “ Circular ticket Geneva to Lausanne,” the tourist 
can go by diligence to Chamouny ; be provided with a guide or 
mule (one of each is best if there are two in a party, or two 
mules and one guide if there are three) over Tete Noire or Col 
de Balme to Martigny. Rail to St. Maurice and Bouveret; 
thence by steamer on the Lake of Geneva to Ouchy, or by rail¬ 
way through to Lausanne, whence the journey may be continued 
by the tickets in Route B. For a delightful addition to the tour, 
such as is given in this circular tour, the additional cost is only 
£i IIS., first class throughout, or ;^i 9s. second class. 


HOTEL ACCOMMODATION COUPONS, 

ORIGINATED AND ISSUED BY 

THOMAS COOK AND SON. 


The Hotel Coupon business, which was commenced as a friendly 
arrangement of mutual interest to ourselves, to Hotel Proprietors, and 
Tourists, has far exceeded our most sanguine anticipations ; and as its 
benefits become better known, they will be more highly appreciated by all 
who are interested in the success of the scheme. 

The European Hotel Coupons are issued at the uniform rate of 8s. per 
day, and are arranged as follows :—1st Coupon (yellow).— Breakfast, 
specifying of what it shall consist. 2nd Coupon (red ).—Dinner at Table 
d'Hote, with or without Wine, according to the custom of the Hotels. 3rd 
Coupon (blue).— Bed-room including lights and atte^idance. 

These are the ordinary features of Continental Hotel life, all else being 
regarded as extras, and as such they are left to be paid for by Supplemental 
Coupons or cash. 

The coupons are accepted at full value at one principal Hotel in 
each of the chief cities, towns, and places of Tourist resort, in Switzerland, 
Italy, on the banks of the Rhine, and at a great many places in France, Ger¬ 
many, Holland, Belgium, Austria, etc. ; also for meals on board the Great 
Eastern Channel Steamers and the Rhine Steamers. 


SUPPLEMENTAL AND EXCEPTIONAL ARRANGEMENTS. 

In London Tourists may be accommodated en route to or from the Con¬ 
tinent at Cook’s British Museum Boarding House, 59, Great Russell Street, 
Bloomsbury, at 6s. per day, for Bed, Breakfast, and Tea with meats. 

(Hotel Coupons accepted at their full value in payment.) 

Hotel Coupons are also accepted at the London and Paris Hotel and 
Refreshment Rooms, Newhaven Wharf, Coupons are accepted for 
meals on board the Great Eastern Channel Steamers, and on the 
Rhine Steamers. 

Special Coupons are issued for Vienna, available at the Hotel 
d’Union, and Hotel Metropole at 13s. per day. 

For Paris, Hotel Coupons at special rates are issued for the Grand 
Hotel and for the Hotel Bedford. 

In Paris, the other Hotels in Messrs. Cook and Son’s connection are 
not equal in appearance and style to those of the Continent generally ; but 
the proprietors having long evinced a kindly interest in promoting the 
comfort and convenience of Excursionists and Tourists, the Coupons are 



219 


allowed to be accepted at the London and New York Hotel, Place du 
Havre ; Hotel St. Petersbourg, 35, Rue Caumartin; at the Hotel Beretta 
(late Londres), 8, Rue St. Hyacinthe, Rue St. Honore. For these Hotels 
accommodation cards are also issued at the rate of 8s. per day, including 
meat for Breakfast. Special Coupons are issued on the Grand Hotel, 
at 16s. per day, and on the Hotel Bedford at 12s. per day. 

At Rouen, Mrs. Daniells, widow of the late Interpreter at the Station, 
who keeps a small Hotel, the Victoria, near the Station, wishes to accept 
Coupons from parties breaking their journey there. 

Additional Charges are made on the Coupons as follows : 

At Baden-Baden, at the time of the Races, 2 francs per day. 

At Rome, frorh the ist of December to the end of April, from i franc 
to 3 francs per day, according to the class of rooms, are now agreed to as 
extra charges ; but new arrangements may have to be made in consequence 
of Rome being now the capital of Italy. Whatever change is made, 
notice will be given thereof. 

For Rome, an additional series of Hotel Coupons can be had, pro¬ 
viding for three meals per day, and other accommodation, at the Hotel 
d’Allemagne, at an extra charge of 2s. per day. 

At the Rigi Kulm Hotels, i franc extra is required on the Bedroom 
Coupon. All these extras can be paid by Supplemental Coupons or Cash. 
Travellers wishing to spend the night at this Hotel must give at least one 
day’s notice by letter or telegram to the Manager, stating that they hold 
“ Cook’s Coupons,” and wish rooms reserved. 

Giessbach. —The Dinner Coupons can only be accepted at this Hotel 
when the passengers remain for the night. 

Conditions and terms of Repayment for unused Coupons are printed 
in the Coupon Books. 

Any Complaints which parties have to make as to the use of the 
Coupons, or the conduct of Hotel Proprietors or Servants, to be addressed, 
in writing, to Messrs. Thomas Cook & Son, Ludgate Circus, Fleet 
Street, London. 

Coupons can be obtained at the offices of Messrs. Thomas Cook & 
Son, Ludgate Circus, and 445, West Strand, London; Cases Street (oppo¬ 
site New Central Station), Liverpool; 43, Piccadilly, Manchester; 16, 
Stephenson Place, New Street, Birmingham ; i. Royal Exchange, Leeds ; 
Front of Midland Station, Bradford; 15, Place du Havre, Paris ; ^22, 
Galerie du Roi, Brussels; 40, Domhof, Cologne; 90, Rue du Rhone, 
Geneva; IB, Piazza di Spagna, Rome; and also at the Hotels Swan, 
Lucerne ; Trois Rois, Bale ; Trombetta, Turin ; Victoria, Venice. 

Repayments for unused Hotel Coupons, less 10 per cent., can 
only be made at the Chief Office, Ludgate Circus, Fleet Street, London, 
and no agents are authorised to repay for any not used. 

Hotels in the East. —A special Series of Coupons is provided for 
the East Levant, and we append List of Hotels. 

For Scotland and Ireland also a special series is provided, as per 
Programme. 


320 


EUROPEAN AND EASTERN HOTELS 

WHERE cook’s COUPONS FOR HOTEL ACCOMMODATION WILL 

BE ACCEPTED. 

Hotels in France and French Savoy, 

Aix les Bains . Hotel de la Paix. 

Amiens , . Hotel de I’Univers. 

Amphion (^Lahe of Geneva) Grand Hotel des Bains. , 


Annecy 
Bagneres de Bigorre 
Bourdeaux . 
Boulogne 
Calais 
Cannes 
Chamhery . 

Chainouny . 

Dieppe 

Dijon 

Fontainebleau 
Gorges du Fier 
Grenoble 
FJyeres 
Lyons 
Macon 
Marseilles . 
Mentone 

Modane 

Nice . 

Bon tar Her . 


Paris * 


Pau 


Hotel d’Angleterre. 

Hotel de France. 

Hotel de France. 

Grand Hotel Christol. 

Hotel Dessin. 

Hotel Beau Site. 

Hotel de la Poste. 

C Hotel de I’Angleterre. 

I Hotel Royal. 

Hotel Queen Victoria. 

Hotel Jura. 

Hotel de Londres. 

Chalet Hotel. 

Hotel Monnet. 

Hotel des lies d’Or. 

Hotel de I’Europe. 

Hotel de I’Europe. 

Hotel du Louvre et de la Paix. 

Hotel Grande Bretagne. 

( Grand Hotel International. 

( Station Buffet. 

Grand Hotel. 

Hotel de la Poste. 

. Grand Hotel (Special Coupons). 

I Bedford Hotel (Special Coupons). 

^ t Londres et New York, Place du Havre. 
/ St. Petersbourg, 35, Rue Caumartin. 
Hotel Beretta, 8, Rue St. Hyacinthe. 
Grand Hotel Gassion. 


* See special note on cover of Hotel Coupons, 
t At the Hotels marked thus t Cook’s Tickets may be had. 



EUROPEAN AND EASTERN HOTELS. 


22 I 


Rouen 

Semnoz Alps 

Toulon 

Vichy 


Smith’s Albion Hotel. 
Chalet Hotel de Semnoz. 
Grand Hotel. 

Grand Hotel des Bains. 


Switzerland and the Alpine Districts. 


Aarau 
Aigle 
Airolo 
Alpnacht 
Andermatt . 

Baden (Switzerland) 
Basle . 

Berne , 

Be 11 in zona . 

Bex 
Bianca 
Brienz 
Brigue 

Chaux de Ponds 
Coire . 

Einsiedeln . 

Engel berg . 

Falls of the Rhine 
Fluelen 
Fribourg 

Geneva 

Giessbach 
Grindelwald 
Hospenthal . 

Interlaken . 

La Tour 

Lausanne 

Lauterbrunnen 
Leukerbad . 

Lode 


Hotel de la Cigogne. 

Hotel Victoria. 

Hotel de la Poste. 

Hotel Pilatus. 

Hotel Trois Rois. 

Hinterhof. 

Hotel Trois Rois. 

Hotel Belle Vue. 

Hotel de I’Ange. 

Hotel de la Ville. 

Hotel des Bains. 

Hotel de Biasca. 

Hotel de la Croix Blanche. 

Hotel de la Poste. 

Hotel de la Fleur de Lis. 

Hotel Steinbock. 

Hotel du Paon. 

Hotel Sonnenberg. 

{Neuhausen) Schweizerhof. 

Hotel Croix Blanche et Poste. 

Hotel Zaeheringen. 

Grand Hotel de Russie et Anglo*Ameri- 
Hotel du Lac. [cain. 

Hotel Giessbach. 

Hotel de I’Aigle Noir. 

Meyerhof, 
j Hotel Victoria. 

\ Hotel Ritchard. 

Hotel du Rivage. 

( Hotel Gibbon. 

( Hotel I’Angleterre, Ouchy. 

Hotel du Capricorne. 

Hotels des Alps and Belle Vue. 

Hotel Jura. 


! 




appendix. 


222 


Lucerne 


Lungern 

Lugano 
Martigny 
Meiringen . 
Mendrisio 
Monte Generoso 
Montreux 
Moregs 
Lleuchdtel . 
Ragatz 

Rigi-Kulm . 

Rigi Staff el 
Rorschach . 
Rovio 
Samaden 

Sarnen 

St. Gall , 
St. Nicholas 
Sierre 
Splugen 

Thoune {Thun) 


Thusis 

Trient 

Vevey 

Vernayaz 

Visp . 

Zermatt 

Zurich 


i 


Hotel du Cygne (Swan). 

Hotel du Lion d’Or. 

Hotel Oberwald. 

Hotel du Parc and Station Buffet. 
Hotel Clerc. 

Hotel du Sauvage. 

Hotel Mendrisio. 

Hotel de Monteroso. 

Langbein’s Hotel Beau-Sejour au Lac. 
Hotel des Alpes. 

Grand Hotel du Lac. 

Hotel Quellenhof. 

Hotel du Rigi-Kulm. 

Hotel Schreiber. 

Hotel Rigi-Staffel. 

Hotel Seehof. 

Hotel Rovio. 

Hotel Bernina. 

Briinig Hotel. 

Hotel de 1 ’Oberwald. 

Hotel de St. Gall. 

Grand Hotel. 

Hotel Belle Vue. 

Hotel de la Poste. 

Hotel Belle Vue. 

Grand Hotel de Thoune. 

Hotel Via Mala. 

Hotel du Glacier de Trient. 

Grand Hotel Vevey. 

Hotel des Gorges de Trient. 

Hotel de la Hoste. 

Hotel du Mont Cervin. 

Hotel Belle Vue. 


Belgium, Holland, the Rhine, Germany, and 

Austria. 


Adelsherg 
Aix-la-Chapelle 
Amsterdam . 

Antwerp 


Grand Hotel. 

Hotel du Dragon d’Or. 
Old Bible Hotel. 

Hotel de la Paix. 

Hotel de I’Europe. 




EUROPEAN AND EASTERN HOTELS. 


2 


Augsburg . 

Hotel de Baviere. 

Baden-Baden 

Hotel de Hollande. 

Berlin 

r MarkgrafFt’s Hotel de I’Europe. 

J Hotel Bartickow. 

( Tdpfer’s Hotel. 


Bingen 

Hotel Victoria. 

Bonn 

Grand Hotel Royal. 

Boppard 

Hotel du Rhin. 

Botzen . ^ . 

Hotel Kaiserkrone (Imperial Crown) 

Breda 

Hotel Swan. 

Bremen 

Hotel de I’Enrope. 

Brixen 

Elephant Hotel. 

Bruges 

Hotel de Flandre. 

Brussels 

( Hotel de la Poste. 

( Hotel du Grand Miroir. 

Carlsruhe . 

Hotel zum Erbprinz. 

Cohlence 

Hotel du Geant. 

Cologne 

Hotels Belle Vue and Hollande. 

Constance . 

Hotel Hecht. 

Darmstadt. . 

Hotel Traube. 

Dresden 

Grand Union Hotel. 

Ems . 

Hotel Darmstadt. 

Field of Waterloo. 

Museum Hotel. 

Frankfort . 

Grand Hotel du Nord. 

Freiburg {^Baden^. 

Hotel Trescher zum Pfaum. 

Ghent. 

Hotel de Vienne. 

Hamburg 

Hotel Streit. 

Hanover 

British Hotel. 

Heidelberg . 
Innsbruck 

Kiel 

Mayence 

Hotel de I’Europe. 

Hotel Tyrol. 

Hotel Germania. 

Hotel de Hollande. 

( Hotel de Paris. 

Metz 

( Grand Hotel de Metz. 

Munich 

Hotel Belle Vue. 

Namur 

Hotel Holland. 

Neuwied 

Moravian Hotel. 

Ostend 

Hotel d’Allemagne. 

Passau 

Hotel Bayrischen Hof. 

Regensburg . 

Hotel Three Helmets. 

Rendsburg . 

Hotel Bergrnan. 

Rochefort 

Hotel Biron. 




234 


APPENDIX. 


Rotterdam , 
Salzburg 
Schwalbach . 
Spa . 
Stettin 
Strasburg . 
Stuttgart 
The Hague . 
Trieste 

Vienna 

Wiesbaden 

Worms 


New Bath Hotel. 

Hotel Erzherzog Carl. 

Hotel Metropole. 

Hotel de I’Europe. 

Hotel du Nord. 

Hotel Maison Rouge. 

Marquardt’s Hotel. 

Hotel du Vieux Doelen. 

Hotel de la Ville. 

Special ■) Union Hotel. 
Hotel Coupons ) Hotel Metropole, 
Grand Hotel du Rhin. 

Hotel de I’Europe. 


Hotels in Italy. 


Alasdo 
Ancona 
Arona 
Bellaggio , 

Bologna 

Bordighera 

Brindisi 

Cadenabbia {Lake of J 
Coma) . . ) 

Capri 
Caserta 
Castellamare 
Cernobbio {Lake of \ 
Como) . . j 

Como {on Lake ). 

Corfu {Greece) . 
Cornigliano 
Chiavenna . 

Chiasso 

Domo d' Ossola . 
Florence . . | 

Genoa 


Hotel de Londres. 

Hotel della Pace. 

Hotel de I’ltalie. 

Hotel Grande Bretagne. 

Hotel Brun. 

Hotel d’Angleterre. 

Hotel Oriental. 

Grand Hotel Belle Vue. 

Hotel du Louvre. 

Hotel Victoria. 

Hotel Royal. 

Grand Hotel Villa d’Este. 

Hotel de la Reine d’Angleterre. 

Hotel St. George. 

Grand Hotel Villa Rachel. 

Hotel Conradi. 

Hotel Chiasso. 

Hotel de la Ville. 

Hotel New York. 

Hotel de I’Europe. 

English and American Boarding House, 
Palazzo d’Elci, 28, Via Maggio. 

Hotels de la Ville and Trombetta Feder. 



EUROPEAN AND EASTERN HOTELS. 


225 


Ischia. (Casamicciola) 
La Tour . 

Leghorn 
Lucca 
Mantua 
Menaggio . 

Milan 

Naples . . . 

Padua 
Pallanza . 

Parma 

Perugia 

Pisa 

Pompeii 

Rome 

Salerno 

San Remo . 

Sienna 

Sondrio iValtelind) 

Sorrento 

Spezia 

Stresa 

Syracuse . 

^Turin 
Farese 
\ Venice 

Verona 


Hotel Belle Vue. 

Hotel de I’Ours. 

Hotel Du Nord. 

Hotel de rUnivers. 

Hotel de I’Ecu de France. 
Hotel Victoria. 

Hotel Royal. 

Station Buffet. 

Hotel des Etrangers. 

Hotel Stella d’Ore. 

Grand Hotel Pallanza. 

Hotel de Perugia. 

Hotel de Londres. 

Hotel Diomede. 

Hotel d’Allemagne. 

Hotel Victoria. 

Hotel Victoria. 

Grand Hotel. 

Hotel de la Poste. 

Hotel Tramontano. 

Hotel de la Croix de Malte. 
Hotel des lies Borromees. 
Hotel Victoria. 

Hotel Trombetta. 

Grand Hotel Varese. 

Hotel Victoria. 

Hotel Tower of London. 
Station Buffet. 


Catania. 

Messina 

* 

Palermo 

Syracuse 

Taormina 


Hotels in Sicily. 

Grand Hotel. 

Hotel Victoria. 
Hotel de France. 
Hotel Victoria. 
Hotel Timeo. 


At the Hotels marked f, Cook’s Tickets may be had. 











226 


EUROPEAN AND EASTERN HOTELS. 


Algeria and Tunis. 


Algiers 



Batna 


Hotel de Paris. 

Biskra 


Hotel du Sahara. 

Blidah 


Hotel d’Orient. 

Bona 


Hotel d’Orient. 

Constantine 


Hotel d’Orient. 

Guelma 


Hotel Auriel. 

Oran 


Hotel de la Paix. 

Soukahras . 


Hotel Thagaste. 

Tlemcen 


Hotel de France. 

Tunis 


Hotel de Paris. 


Sweden, Norway, and Denmark. 


Aarhuus . 

Christiania 

Copenhagen 

Helsinghorg 

Honefos 

Jonkoping . 

Stockholm . 


Hotel Royal. 

Grand Hotel. 

Hotel d’Angleterre. 
Hotel Mol berg. 
Gladvett’s Hotel. 
Hotel Jonkoping. 
Grand Hotel. 

Hotel Rydberg. 


Hotels in Black Forest. 

Alhlruck . . Hotel Albthal. 

Brennet {Station). Hotel Werrathal. 

Belchen {High Mountain Station) Rasthaus Belchen. 
Donaueschingen . Hotel Schutzen. 

Feldherg {High Mountain Station) Hotel Feldbergerhof. 


Furtwangen 

Angel Hotel. 

Gernshach . 

Bath Hotel. 

Hochen Schwand . 

Hotel Maier. 

Holsteig {Hollenthal) 

Golden Star Hotel. 

Hornherg 

Hotel Baren. 

Lorrach 

Hirsch Hotel. 

Lenzkirch 

Hotel Poste. 

Mulheim 

Hotel Kittler. 

Neustadt 

Hotel Poste. 






Ottenhofen . 

APPENDIX. 

Hotel Pflug. 

Oberkirch 

Hotel Linde. 

Schlu.chsee . 

Hotel Star. 

Sackingen . 

Hotel Schutzen. 

Schonau 

Hotel Sonne. 

Schopfheim . 

Hotel Three Kings. 

St. Georgen {Black 

Forest) Hotel Hirsch. 

St. Blasien . 

Hotel St. Blasien. 

Todtnau 

Hotel Ochsen. 

Triherg {Town) . 

Lion Hotel. 

Triberg {Cascade) 

Black Forest Hotel. 

Yohrenbach . 

Hotel Kreuz. 

Villengen 

Hotel Blume^(Poste). 

TYaldkirch . 

Hotel Poste. 

Wdldshut 

Hotel Kuhner. 

IVolfach 

Hotel Krone. 

Wehr {Werrathal) 

Hotel Krone. 


EASTERN HOTELS (SPECIAL COUPONS.) 


Alexandria . 

Hotel de I’Europe. 

Cairo . 

Shepheard’s Hotel and the New Hotel. 

Suez . 

Suez Hotel. 

Port Said 

Hotel de France and Hotel du Louvre. 

C Mediterranean Hotel. 

yerusalem . 

\ Hotel de PEurope. 

Jaffa . 

Hardegg’s ‘^Jerusalem Hotel” (Cook 
Agency). 

Bey rout 

Hotel Bellevue. 

Damascus . 

Dimetri’s Hotel. 

Constantinople 

Hotel de Luxemburg. 

Athens 

Hotel des Etrangers. 



2 ,ZS 

TOURIST OFFICES. 

TOURIST OFFICES OF THOS. COOK AND SON, 

/ Ludgate Circus, Fleet Street(Chief Office). 
\ West-end Agency, 445, West Strand 

London . 

< (opposite Charing Cross Station and 
/ Hotel) j and 

\ Front of Midland Station, St. Pancras. 

Liverpool 

14, Cases Street (opposite New Central 
Station). 

Manchester . 

43, Piccadilly. 

Birmingham . 

16, Stephenson Place. 

Leeds 

I, Royal Exchange. 

Bradford. 

In front of Midland Station. 

Edinburgh 

9, Princes Street. 

Glasgow . 

165, Buchanan Street. 

Dublin 

45, Dame Street. 

Paris 

15, Place du Havre. 

Cologne . 

40, Domhof. 

Brussels . 

22, Galerie du Roi. 

Geneva . 

90, Rue du Rhone. 

Rome 

IB, Piazza di Spagna. 

Cairo 

Cook’s Tourist Pavilion, Shepheard’s 
Hotel. 

Jaffa, Palestine Hardegg’s “ Jerusalem Hotel.” 

AMERICAN 

OFFICES OF COOK, SON, AND 
JENKINS. 

New York 

261, Broadway. 

Boston 

104, Washington Street. 

Washington . 

701, Fifteenth Street (opposite Trea¬ 
sury Department). 

New Orleans. 

35, Carondelet Street. 

New Haven . 

74, Church Street. 




INDEX. 


Aa 


PAGE 

. . 78 

Altstatten 

PAGE 

30, 54 

Aadorf . 


• • 

54 

Altstetten 

. 36 

Aarau 


• • 

35 

Amben . 

• 47 

Aarberg. 


• • 

97 

Amphion 

• 143 

Aarburg 


• • 

57 

Arariswyl 

• 53 

Aare, The 


35> 88, 

etc. 

Amsteg . 

• 173 

Aare, Glaciers, The 

• • 

88 

Andeer . 

. . 178 

Aathal . 


• « 

43 

Andelfingen . 

. 25 

Acheregg 


» « 

64 

Andermatt 

. 174 

Adler Pass 


• 

166 

Anieres . 

. . 142 

Adligenschwyl 


• • 

63 

Annecy . 

. 132, 146 

Adlischwyl 


• • 

56 

Annemasse 

. . 146 

Affoltem 


• • 

54 

Anniviers, Val d’ . 

. 171 

Aigle 


• • 

119 

Antey . 

. . 170 

Aiguille de Beaulmes 

• • 

118 

Anza, The 

. . 168 

Aiguilles Rouges 


• • 

148 

Anzasca, Val . 

. 158 

Airolo 


• • 

176 

Aosta 

• 155 

Aix-les-Eaux . 


• • 

146 

,, Castle . 

• 155 

Allaman 


• • 

134 

Appenzell 

. 54 

Alice Blanche 


• • 

154 

Arbedo . 

. . 176 

Alliaz 1 ’, baths 


• • 

140 

Arbon . 

. 30 

Albis, The 


• • 

56 

Ardetz . 

. 188 

Albula Thai . 


• « 

185 

Ardon . 

. . 170 

,, Pass . 


• • 

185 

Areneberg 

. 25 

Aletsch Glacier 


• « 

76 

Argent, Chateau d’ 

• 155 

Allalein Glacier 


• • 

167 

Argentiere 

• 157 

Allensbach 


• • 

25 

,, Aiguille d’ 

• 153 

Allenwinden . 


• • 

62 

,, Glacier . 

• 157 

Allinges, Castle 


• • 

143 

Arlesheim 

. 20 

Amagel 


• • 

167 

Arona 

. 172, 190 

Alpach, The . 


• • 

81 

Arpenaz, Nant d’ . 

. . 146 

Alpnach, Gestad 


• • 

64 

Arve 

. 146 

Alpnach, Bay. 


• • 

64 

Arve and Rhone, Confluence . 131 

Alstad . 


• • 

64 

Arveiron, Source . 

. 150 

Altdorf . 

• 

. 68, 

173 

Arvier . 

• 155 

Altnau . 


• • 

30 

Ascona . 

. 189 

Altorf 


. 68, 

173 

Aubonne 

• 133 











230 


INDEX. 




PAGE 


PAGE 

Auf der Fliih, Castle 


77 

Berne {continued ):— 



Augst, Basel . 

2 C 

, 21 

Cathedral . 

• 

lOI 

Augstkummenmatt, The . 

• 

162 

Bund Rathaus 

• 

102 

Augstmatthorn, The 

• 

91 

Kunstsaal . 

• 

103 

Auvernier 

• 

117 

Museum 

• 

105 

Avencon, The. 

• 

120 

Gardens, etc. 

• 

106 

Avise .... 

• 

155 

Bernardino Pass, San 

• 

180 

Axenstein, The 

• 

66 

Bernese Oberland . 

80, 

etc. 

Axenstrasse, The . 

• 

68 

Bernina Glaciers 

• 

187 




,, Pass . 

• 

188 

Baar .... 

• 

57 

Berthoud 

• 

97 

Bachalp, The. 

• 

84 

Bessinges 

• 

142 

Bachalp, Lake 

• 

84 

Bevaix . . . . 

• 

117 

Bachtel, The . 

• 

43 

Bevers .... 

• 

187 

Bad-Alveneu . 

• 

185 

Bevieux .... 

• 

120 

Baden (Aargau) 

• 

36 

Bex .... 

• 

120 

Bad-Pfdffers . 

• 

31 

Bianca Pizzo . 

• 

167 

Balferinhorn . 


160 

Biasca .... 

• 

176 

Balme, Col de 

• 

159 

Biberbruck 


48 

Balme, La . . . 

• 

146 

Bied, The 


117 

,, Chalet de la . 

• 

154 

Bieler See 

* 

113 

Barberine, The 

• 

158 

Bienne .... 

« 

”3 

Bard .... 

• 

155 

,, Lake . 

« 

“3 

Basle .... 

* 

15 

Biesgletscher . 

• 

161 

Basel Augst . 

20 

, 21 

Bietschhorn, The . 

• 

166 

Bathiaz, la Castle . 

• 

122 

Bionnassay 

• 

153 

Baveno . . . *172, 

190 

,, Aiguille de . 

• 

153 

Bayerbach, The 

• 

47 

,, Glacier de 

• 

153 

Beatenberg, The 

• 

94 

Bionnay 

• 

153 

Beatenhbhle, The . 

• 

94 

Bilten . . . . 

• 

52 

Beaulmes, Aig. de . 

• 

118 

Birmensdorf . 

• 

54 

Beauregard (Neuchatel) Castle. 

117 

Bivio .... 

• 

184 

,, (Chabalis) Castle 

• 

142 

Blaise, St. . 

• 

“3 

Beckenried 

• 

65 

Blanc, Mont . 

• 

151 

Belgirate 

• 

190 

Blatten .... 

• 

77 

Bellagio 

• 

192 

Blaue See 

• 

96 

Belle Alp 

0 

77 

Blonay . . . . 

• 

140 

Bellegarde 

« 

132 

Bliimlisalp 

• 

95 

Bellerive 


133 

Bodio . . . . 

• 

176 

Bellevue, Pavilion de 

• 

153 

Bois, Glacier des . 

« 

157 

Bellinzona 

• 

176 

Bolladore 

• 

189 

Bel-Oiseau, The 

• 

158 

Bonaduz 

• 

177 

Belotte, La . 

« 

142 

Bon-homme, Col du 

• 

154 

Belvedere, The 

• 

168 

Bonigen 

• 

91 

Bergerie, La . 

• 

134 

Bon-Nant, The 

• 

148 

Bergiin .... 

• 

185 

Bonneville 

• 

146 

Bergiiner Stein 

« 

185 

Bonstetten 

• 

54 

Berlingen 

• 

25 

Borca . . . . 

• 

168 

Bernard, St., Great 

• 

156 

Bormio, Baths of . 

• 

189 

,, ,, Little . 

• 

155 

Borromean Islands. 


190 

Berne .... 

• 

98 

Bbsenstein 

• 

87 

Streets 

• 

ICX) 

Bossons, Glacier des 

• 

151 












INDEX. 

231 


PAGE 


PAGE 

Bouchy, Signal 

• 134 

Cadenabbia . 


192 

Boudry . 

. II7 

Caille, la, Bridge . 


132 

Bourg, St. Maurice 

• 155 

Cama 


181 

,, St. Pierre 

• 157 

Cambrena Glacier . 


188 

Bouveret 

. 142 

Campioles 


168 

Bramegg, The 

. 108 

Campfen 


185 

Brandli, The . 

. 66 

Campo Cologno 


188 

Bregenz . .* 

. 29 

Campo Dolcino 


179 

Breithorn, The 

. 165 

Cadenazzo 


176 

Brenva, Glacier de. 

• 154 

Canobbio 


189 

Brestenberg . 

• 35 

Cannero 


189 

Breuil, Le 

. 169 

Carrera . 


182 

Brevent, The . 

• 151 

Casaccia 


184 

Brezon, The . 

. 146 

Castiglione 


168 

Brieg 

• 77 

Catogne, Mont 


138 

Brienz . 

79 , 90 

Cavloccio, Lake 


186 

,, Lake . 

. 90 

Cebbia . 


181 

Brienzwyler . 

• 79 

Celigny . 


133 

Brigue . 

• 77 

Ceppo Morelli 


168 

Brissago 

. 189 

Cernobbio 


192 

Bristenstock, The . 

• 173 

Cervin, Mont 


165 

Brugg . 

• 35 

,, Petit . 


169 

Brugg . 

. 97 

Chablais 


142 

Bruggen 

• 54 

Cham . 


55 

Bruhl, Field of 

. 28 

Chambery 


133 

BrCinig, Pass . 

• 79 

Chambesy 


133 

Brunnen 

52, 66 

Chambrelieu . 


116 

Brunni . 

. 70 

Chamouny 


148 

Brusio . 

. 188 

Chamousset . 


155 

Bubikon. 

• 43 

Champel 


153 

Buchs . 

. 31 

Champery 


123 

Buffalora, Falls 

. 181 

Chanelaz 


116 

Bulle 

. Ill 

Chapeau (M. Blanc) 


150 

Biimplitz 

. 108 

Chapelle du Glacier 


154 

Bursinel 

. 134 

Chapiu . 


154 

Bursino 

. 134 

Chardonnet, Aig. du 


157 

Butzberg 

. 97 

Chasseral, The 


113 

Buochs . 

. 65 

Chasseron, The 


118 

,, Lake . 

• 65 

Chatelard, Le 


122 

Buochser Flom, The 

. 65 

„ Castle 

. I4I, 

155 

Burgdorf 

• 97 

„ Tunnel 

• , 

148 

Biirgenstock . 

. 65 

Chitillon 

• 155, 

170 

Burghiigel, The 

. 52 

Chaumont 

. . 

116 

Biirglen (Obwalden) 

. 79 

Chaux-de-Fonds, La 

« • 

116 

,, (Thurgen) . 

• 53 

Chavornay 

• • 

118 

„ (Uri) . . 

68, 73 

ChMe . 

• • 

147 

Buriez . 

• 133 

Cheminee, La 

• • 

151 

Burvein 

. 184 

Chene . 

• • 

145 

Bussigny 

. 118 

Chenens 

. 

no 

Busswyl 

• 97 

Chexbres 

• • 

III 


* 

Chiasso . 

• • 

177 

Cabbiola 

. 181 

Chiavenna 

« • 

179 












232 


INDEX. 




PAGE 


PAGE 

Chillon, Castle 

• • 

141 

Daubensee, The 

• 

96 

Chur 

• • 

32 

Dazio Grande 

• 

176 

Churwalden . 

• • 

183 

De Boigne, Castle . 

• 

142 

Cima del Pizzo 

• • 

167 

Dent Blanche, Col de la 

• 

165 

Cima di Jazi . 

• • 

164 

Dent de Morcles 

• 

158 

Clarens . . 119, , 

140 

Dent du Midi 

• 

123 

Cluses . 

• • 

146 

Derendingen . 

• 

III 

Coblenz 

• • 

35 

Devil’s Bridge, The 


173 

Coffrane 

• • 

116 

Devens . . , 

« 

120 

Cogne, Val de 

• • 

155 

Diablerets 

• 

123 

Coire 

• • 

32 

Diavolezza 

• 

187 

Colico . 

• • 

191 

Didier, Pre St. 

* 

155 

Collonge 


132 

Diessenhofen 

• 

25 

Cologny 

• • 

142 

Dietikon 

« 

36 

Colombier 

• • 

117 

Dietlikon 


53 

C’ombal, Lac de 

• • 

154 

Diodati Campagne 


142 

Como 

• • 

192 

Dissentis 


182 

,, Lake of 

• • 

191 

Distel . 


167 

Concise . 

• • 

117 

Doire, The 


155 

Constance 

• • 

26 

Dole, The . 

* 

134 

„ Lake 

• • 

26 

Dolent, Mont 

• 

153 

Contamines, Les 

. 146, 

153 

Donat . 

• 

178 

Convers 


116 

Dossen, The . 

• 

73 

Conversion, La 

• • 

III 

Douanne 

• 

”3 

Coppet . 

• t 

133 

Doubs, The , 


117 

Corcelles 

• • 

116 

Douna . 


155 

Comaux 

• • 

113 

Dranse (Chablais) . 

• 

143 

Cossonay 

• • 

118 

,, (Valais) 

122, 

157 

Cote, La 

* • 

134 

Dreieckhom . 


76 

Cottens . 

• • 

no 

Drei Linden . 


62 

Courmayeur . 

• • 

154 

Droites, Les . 

• 

153 

Couters . 

• * 

184 

Dulit 

• 

134 

Cramont 

• • 

154 




Crans . 

• • 

134 

Eau Noire 


158 

Cressier 

• • 

“3 

Ebikon . 

• 

55 

Creux du Vent, The 

• t 

117 

Eck 


94 

Crevola. 

* • 

170 

Ecl^pens 

. 

118 

Croix, St. 

• • 

118 

Ecluse, Fort de r . 

• 

132 

Cuera 

• • 

32 

Effretikon 

• 

53 

Cully 


137 

Egeri . 


51 




,, X-.ake . . 


51 

Dachsen 


25 

Eggischorn, The 


76 

Dagmersellan 


57 

Egnach 


30 

Dailly, Cascade du 


121 

Eigenthal, The 


63 

Dala, The 

77 

. 97 

Eiger 


82 

Dames, Plaine des 


154 

Einsiedeln 


48 

Danikon 


35 

Elgg 


54 

Dard, Cascade du . 


149 

Emme, The . 


’J 1 

107 

D ^Argent, Chateau 


155 

Emmenbriicke, The 


58 

Darligen 


94 

Emmenmatt, The . 

• 

107 

Daube, The . 


96 

Emmenthal, The . 


108 

Daubenhorn . 


96 

Ems 

• 

177 













INDEX. 


233 

Engadine, The 


PAGE 

. 185 

Flamatt. 


PAGE 

. 108 

„ Upper 


. 186 

Flawyl . 


• 54 

„ Lower 


. 187 

Fl%ere, The . 


• I5I 

Enge, The, near Berne . 

. 107 

Flims 


. 182 

Englestock, The 


. 73 

Fluelen . 


. 68 

Entle, The 


. 108 

Fliihbrig, The 


• 73 

Entlebuch 

P • 

. 108 

Foliaz, La 


• *55 

„ Vale 


. 108 

Foncile, La . 


• *33 

Ependes 


. 118 

Forclaz, Col de la . 


• *59 

Eplatures 


. 117 

Forestay, The 


. *37 

Ergolz, Valley 


. 34 

Foron, The . 


. 146 

Erlach 


. 95 

Fourneaux, The 


. 169 

Erlen 


• 53 

Fours, Col des 


• *54 

Erlenbach, The 


. 88 

Frakmiind 


. 70 

Ermatigen 


• 25 

Franzenshbhe. 


. 189 

Erzingen 


. 21 

Frauenfeld 


• 53 

Eschenz 


• 25 

Freiberger 


• 7 * 

Eschlikon 


• 54 

Fressinone, The 


. 172 

Escholzmatt . 


. 108 

Freud enfels . 


• 25 

Esel, The 


• 70 

Fribourg 


. 109 

Estavayer 


• 117 

Friedrichshafen 


. 29 

Etrambieres, Castle 

. 146 

Frohnalp 


. 66 

Etroubles 


. 156 

Frohnalpstock 


. 66 

Eugensberg . 


• 25 

Frontinex, Bois de. 


• * 3 * 

Evian les Eaux 


. 142 

Frutigen 


. 96 

Evionnaz 


. 121 

Fuorcla de Surlej . 


. 186 

Evolena 


. 170 

Furca 


• 74 

Faido 


. 176 

Furcahom 

Furggen Glacier 


. 74 
. 164 

Falknis, The . 
Fariolo . 


• 31 

. 170 

Gabelhom, The 


. 166 

Faucigny, Castle 


. 146 

Gais 


• 54 

Faulhom, The 


. 83 

Galenstock, The 


• 74 

Fee 


. 167 

Gall, St. 


• 54 

Feldbach 


• 25 

Gauli Glacier, The . 


. 88 

Feldkirch 


• 30 

Gellihom, The 


. 96 

Felsenburg, The 


. 96 

Gelmerbach, The . 


. 89 

Felsenthor, The 


. 72 

Gelmerhom, The . 


• 75 

Felwen . 


• 53 

Gelmersee, The 


. 89 

Femex . 


• 131 

Gemmi, The . 


. 96 

Ferret, Col de 


• 155 

Generoso, Monte . 


• *93 

,, Val de 


• 155 

Geneva 


. 125 

Fiden, St. 


• 54 

History 


. 126 

Filisur . 


. 185 

Cathedral . 


. 128 

Fillar 


. 168 

Lake . 


. 132 

Findelen, The 


. 161 

N. Bank 


• *33 

,, Glacier 


. 163 

S. Bank 


. 142 

Finhaut. 


. 122 

Genthod Bellevue . 


• *33 

Finster-Aar Glacier 

. 89 

Gersau . 


. 65 

Finster-Aarhorn 


. 89 

Gervaix, St. . 


. 148 

Finster-Aar Schluct 

. 88 

,, Baths 


. 148 

Fischetz, The. 


. 22 

Gestubtach, Falls . 


. 66 









INDEX. 



PAGE 


PAGE 

Giacomo 


i8i 

Grimsel Hospice . 

• • 

89 

Giessbach 

• 

90 

Grindelalp 

• • 

82 

,, Falls 

« 

91 

Grindelwald . 

• t 

82 

Giffre, The 

• 

146 

Grisons . 

• 0 

32 

Gignod . 

• 

156 

Grono . . . 

0 0 

181 

Gingolph, St. 

• 

144 

Grotte aux Fees 

• • 

121 

Giomen . 

• 

169 

Griiben . 

• • 

170 

Giornico. 

• 

176 

Griitli 

• • 

67 

Gisikon . 

- 

55 

Gruyere . 

* • 

in 

Giswyl . 

• 

79 

Gschwand Alp 

• • 

70 

Gland . 

• 

133 

Guardavall, Castle . 

• • 

187 

Glarner Alps . 

• 

48 

Guggli . . 

• • 

163 

Glarnisch 

• 

52 

Guin-Balliswyl 

• • 

108 

Glarus . 

• 

52 

Giimligen 

• • 

107 

Glatt, The 

• 

43 

Gurten, The . 

• • 

107 

Glerolles 


137 

Giitsch, The . 

• 

63 

Gletscher Alp 

• 

167 

Guttanen 

• • 

88 

Glion 

« 

141 

Giittingen 

• • 

30 

Goldach, The. 

• 

54 

Gyslifluh 

0 0 

35 

Goldau . 

• 

55 




Goldei, The . 

• 

94 

Haag 

0 0 

31 

Goldswyl 

0 

91 

Habsburg 

0 0 

35 

Golzwyl, Lake 

0 

94 

Hahle Platte . 

0 0 

89 

Gondo . 

0 

170 

Handeck, Falls 

0 0 

88 

Gondo, Gorge of . 

• 

170 

Hasenmatt, The 

0 0 

112 

Gorgier St. Aubyn. 

• 

117 

Hash Thai 

0 0 

81 

Gorner Grat . 

« 

162 

Hauenstein 

0 0 

35 

Gorner Glacier 


162 

,, Tunnel . 

0 0 

35 

Gorner Horn, The. 


165 

Hauseck 

0 0 

89 

Goschenen 

« 

173 

Hausen . 

0 0 

56 

Gossan . 

• 

54 

Hauteville 

0 0 

139 

Gothard, St., Railway 

• 

172 

Hants Geneveys 

0 0 

116 

,, Hospice 

« 

175 

Hedingen 

0 0 

54 

,, Pass. 

« 

175 

Heiden . 

0 0 

30 

,, Tunnel 

« 

174 

Heligkreuz, The 

0 0 

72 

Gotteron, Bridge . 

• 

no 

Heimwehfluh . 

0 0 

94 

,, Valley . 

• 

no 

Henggart 

0 0 

25 

Gottfrey 

• 

170 

Hergiswyl 

0 0 

64 

Gottlieben 

• 

26 

Herrgottswald 

0 0 

63 

Gourse, Tour de 

• 

137 

Hermance 

0 0 

142 

Gouter, Aiguille du 

• 

153 

Hertenstein 

0 0 

65 

Grabengletscher 

• 

161 

Herzogenbuchsee . 

0 0 

97 

Grabenhorn . 

• 

161 

Hettlingen 

0 0 

25 

Grandson 

• 

117 

Hindelbank . 

• 9 

97 

Grandvaux 

• 

in 

Hinterrhein . 

t • 

180 

Grasonet 

• 

157 

Hirzel 

• • 

57 

Greifenstein . 


185 

Hbchenschwand 

• * 

21 

Greina Pass . 

• 

182 

Hochfluh, The 

• 0 

66 

Grenchen 

• 

112 

Hochfluhkirche, The 

0 0 

77 

Grengiols 

• 

77 

Hochstein, The 


72 

Grenzach 

• 

21 

Hbchste Spitze, The 

• « 

165 

Grimselgrund . 

« 

89 

Hochwacht, The . 

• • 

56 












INDEX. 


235 

Hofwyl . . . • 

PAGE 

. 98 

Kammerstock, The 


PAGE 

• 53 

HohbUhl 


94 

Kander, The . 


. 96 

Hohenklingen . , 


25 

Kandersteg 


. 96 

Hohen Rhoetian, Castle . 


178 

Kanzli (Neuhausen) 


. 22 

Hohentwiel . 


25 

,, (Rigi) . 


• 72 

Hollenhaken, The . 


21 

Kappel (Albio) 


. 56 

Homme de Pierre . 


159 

Kastris . 


. 182 

Horgen .... 


44 

Katzis 


. 177 

Horn .... 


30 

Kempthal, The 


• 53 

Hornberg, The 


107 

Kessweil 


• 30 

Hdmli, The . 


163 

Killwangen 


• 36 

Hospenthal 


175 

Kindlimord, Chapel 


. 66 

Hiinigen 


20 

Kirchen, The. 


. 88 

Hunnenfluh . 


87 

Kirchet, The . 


. 88 

Hurden .... 


46 

Klein Basel . 


i 5 » 21 

Ilanz .... 


182 

Klein Lauffenburg . 
Kleine Rugen 

' • 

. 21 
. 94 

Ilfis .... 


107 

Klimsenhorn . 


. 70 

Illiez, Val d’ . 


123 

Klus 


• 173 

Im Grund 


88 

Knonau . 


• 54 

Im Hof .... 


88 

Koblenz. 


• 35 

Immensee 


55 

Konigsfelden, Abbey 


• 35 

Inkwyl .... 


III 

Konolfingen . 


. 107 

Interlaken 


92 

Kreuzlingen, Abbey. 


28, 30 

Intra .... 


190 

Krienz . 


• ^0 

Iselle .... 


170 

Krisiloch 


• 70 

Iseltwald 


91 

Kiissnacht 


. 64 

Isles, Les 


157 

Kiissnacht Bay 


. 64 

Islikon .... 


53 

Kyburg, Castle 


. 95 

Isola Bella 

,, Madre . 


L’Alliaz, Baths 


. 140 

,, Dei Pescatori . 



La Balme 


. 146 

,, S. Giovanni . 



La Bathiaz 


. 122 

Ivrea .... 

i 55 » 

170 

La Belotte 


. 142 

Jacob, St. . 

• 

20 

La Bergerie . 

La Caille, Bridge . 


. 134 

. 132 

Jacobshilbeli . 

• 

95 

La Conversion 


. Ill 

Jardin (M. Blanc) . 

* 

150 

La Cote 


. 134 

Jazi, Cima di . 

Joderhorn 

• 

164 

La Foliaz 


• 155 

• 

167 

La Foncile 


• 133 

Joli, Mont 


153 

La Joux 


• 157 

Jorasses, Grandes . 

• 

153 

La Lance 


. 117 

Jougne .... 

• 

119 

La Meillerie . 


. 144 

Joux, La 

Julie, Bosquet de . 

• 

157 

La Salle 


• 155 

• 

140 

La Sarraz 


. 119 

Julier Pass 

• 

184 

La Saxe, Baths 


. 154 

Jungbach, The 

• 

160 

La Tour 


• 159 

Jungfrau 

• 

85 

La Turr, Castle 


. 178 

Jura .... 

• 

118 

La Villette 


• 153 

Kaiserstuhl, The 


79 

Lac, Le 

Lachen . 


. 148 

• 52 

Kaltbad .... 

• 

71 

Lago Bianco . 


. 188 









23(5 

INDEX. 




PAGE 



PAGE 

Lago Di Garda 

• 193 

Leuk, Baths . 

* 

. 97 

,, D’Isea . 

. 193 

Liddes . 


• 157 

,, Minore . 

. 188 

Liestal . . 


• 34 

,, Moesola 

. 181 

Limmat, The. 


• 35 

,, Nero 

. 188 

Lindau . 


. 29 

Lakes, Italian 

. 189 

Linth Canal, The . 


. 46 

Lake of Como 

. I9I 

Linththal 


• 53 

,, Lugano 

• 193 

Liro Valley . 


. 179 

,, Orta . 

. 193 

Liverogne 


• 155 

,, Riva . 

. 180 

Locarno 


. 189 

,, Sils . , ' . 

. 186 

Lode, Le 


. 117 

,, Varese 

. 193 

Lostallo 


. 181 

,, Vatz . 

. 184 

Lovere . 


. 193 

Lance, La . . 

. II7 

Lower Engadine . 


. 187 

Lancettes, Glacier de 

• 154 

Lower Glacier (Grindelwald) . 82 

Landenberg, The . 

. 78 

Lowerz 


. 55 

Landeron 

• II3 

„ Lake. 


. 66 

Landquart 

• 32 

Luc, St. 


. 170 

Langenthal 

• 97 

Lucerne . 


. 58 

Langnau 

. 107 

Bridges 


• 59 

I^anibach, The 

• 79 

Stiftskirche 


. 60 

Laninge 

. 143 

Lion . 


. 61 

Lauberhorn . - . 

. 85 

Glacier Garden . 


. 62 

Laufelfingen . 

• 35 

Lucerne, Lake of 


• 63 

l^aufen, Schloss 

. 22 

Lugano . 


. 177 

Lauffenburg . 

. 21 

,, Lake . 


177, 193 

Laupen .... 

. 108 

Lugnetz Valley 


. 182 

Lausanne . 

• 134 

Luino . . . 


. 189 

,, Cathedral . 

• 135 

Lukmannier Pass . 


. 183 

Lausen .... 

• 35 

Lumino . 


. 181 

Lauter-Aar Glacier 

. 89 

Lungern 


• 79 

Lauterbrunnen 

. 86 

Lungern, Lake 


• 79 

,, Upper Valley . 87 

Lustbiihl 


. 94 

Lavancher 

• 157 

Lutry 


I”, 133 

Lavaux .... 

” 9 » 137 

Lutschine, Black . 


. 82 

Laveno .... 

. 189 

,, White . 


. 87 

Lavey, Baths 

. 121 

Lyskamm 


. 166 

Lax .... 

• 77 

Lyss 


• 97 

Leggia .... 

. 181 

Lyssach. 


• 97 

Lenz .... 

. 184 




Leonard, St. 

. 170 

Maccagno 


. 189 

Le Bied 

. 117 

Macugnagna . 


. 167 

Le Breuil 

. 169 

„ Val de 


. 168 

Le Lac .... 

. 148 

Madre, Isola . 


. 172 

Le Lode 

. 117 

Madonna di Tirano 


. 188 

Le Prese 

. 188 

Madulein 


. 187 

Les lies 

• 157 

Magadino 


. 189 

Les Montets . 

. 158 

Maggiore, Lago 


. 172 

Les Fonts 

. 117 

Magland 


. 146 

Les Praz 

• 157 

Magnin, Forest 


• 159 

Les Tines 

• ^57 

Mahrenhom . 


. 88 

Leuk .... 

77 , 79 

Maienwand, The . 


. 90 













INDEX. 


237 


PAGE 


Maira, The .... 
Mainau, Island 

Maloja . . . . . 

Mals . . . . . 

Makers ..... 
Manastein .... 
M'annedorf .... 
Mannlichen . . ‘ . 

Maria, St., Sonnenberg . 
Maria, St., zum Schnee . 
Marjelen See .... 
Markelfingen 

Marstetten .... 
Marthalen . . . . 

Martigny . . . . 

Martigny-le-bourg . 

Martin, St. (Chablais) . 

,, (Aosta) 

Martinsbruck .... 
Martinsdruch .... 
Martinsloch (Flims) 

,, (Grind el wald) 

Massa, The .... 
ssa. Gorge. 

atran ..... 
Matten (Interlaken) 
Matterhorn, The . . 161, 

Mattinark . . . . 

Mattmark See 
Maurice, St. . 

Manvais Pas (M. Blanc) 
Mayenfeld .... 
Medels ..... 
Medelser, The 
,, Pass 

Meigeren .... 
Meilen ..... 
Meillerie, La. 

Meiringen .... 
Melchthal .... 
Melide ..... 
Menaggio .... 
Mendrisio .... 
Menoge, The 
Mer de Glace (M. Blanc) 
Mesocco .... 

Metmenstetten 
Mettelhorn, The . 

Mettenberg .... 
Miage, Glacier, de . 
Mischabelhorn . . 160, 

Mischabelh’omer 


179 

28 

186 

188 

108 

20 

44 

85 

66 

71 

76 

25 

53 

25 

122 

159 

146 


83 

53 

83 

77 
76 

no 

87 

165 
167 
167 
120 

150 

32 

180 

183 

183 

167 

43 

144 

80 

78 
177 
191 
177 
146 
149 

181 

54 

166 

82 

154 

166 

161 


Misot, Castle 
Mitlodi . 
Mittaghom, The 
Mittelholz 
Mittel Rhein . 
Moesa, The 
,, Falls 
Mole, The . 
Moleson, The 
Molins . 

Mollis . 

Moltrasio 
Montalegre 
Montanvert . 
Montbenon 
Mont Blanc . 
Monte Generoso 
Montets, Col des . 
Monthey 
Montmollin . 

Moos 
Morbegno 
More, Monte . 

Morel 
Morgarten 
Morge, Gorge of . 
Morgen, The. 
Morgenthal . 
Morges . 

Morgex. 

Momex, Castle 
Morschach 
Morschwyl 
Morteratsch Glacier 
Morts,, Vallee des 
Mottet . 

Moutier Val . 
Moveran, Grand 
Miihlehom 
Miihlen . 

Miihlenen 
Miihlibach 
Mulets, Grands 
Mulheim 
Miilinen 

Miinchen-Buchsee . 
Munoth, Castle 
Munster (Valais) 
Miinsterthal . 
Munsterlingen 
Muottas, the . 
Muretto Pass . 


PAGE 

181 

52 
167 
96 

183 

166 
181 
146 
110 

184 

47 

192 

131 

149 

137 

150 

177 

158 

123 

117 

96 
188 

167 
77 

51 

144 

168 

97 
134 
155 

146 

66 

54 

187 

157 
154 
113 

158 

47 

184 

96 

84 

153 

53 

87 

98 
24 
75 

113 

30 

187 

186 















INDEX. 



PAGE 



PAGE 

Murg (Wallenstadt) 

. 47 

Oerlikon 


43 » 53 

Miirren .... 

. 86 

Oggebio 


. 189 

Myes .... 

. 133 

Olivone . 


. 182 

Mythen .... 

. 66 

Ollon, St. Triphon. 


. 119 

Mythenstein . 

. 67 

Olmenhom 


. 76 



Olten 


• 35 

Nafels .... 

• 52 

Orbe 


. 118 

Nangy .... 

. 146 

„ Vald’ . 


. 118 

Nant Borrant . 

• 154 

Ordlegno Falls 


. 186 

Nant d’Arpenaz 

. 146 

Oimonto, Val des . 


. 119 

Napf, The 

. 108 

Oron 


. Ill 

Nase, The 

• 95 

Orta 


• 193 

Nasen, The . 

. 65 

Orsieres 


i 55 » 157 

Naters .... 

• 77 

Ortler Spitz . 


. 189 

Nauders .... 

. 188 

Ossola, Val d’ 


. 172 

Nebikon 

• 57 

Ossola, Domo d’ 


. 172 

Nernier .... 

. 142 

Ouches, Les . 


. 146 

Neubriicke 

. 160 

Ouchy . 


• 134 

Neuchatel 

• 113 

Oyen, St. 


• 156 

,, Lake of . 

• 113 




Neuenstadt 

• 113 

Palezieux 


. Ill 

Neuhaus 

. 94 

Pallanza. 


. 190 

Neuhausen 

. 22 

Panixer Pass . 


• 53 

Neuveville 

• 113 

Paradies. 


• 25 

Neyruz .... 

. no 

Parpan . 


. 184 

Nicholas, St. . 

. 112 

Parrotspitze, The . 


. 165 

Nicolai Thai . 

. 160 

Pedriolo. 


. 168 

Niederried 

. 91 

Peilz, La Tour de . 


. 140 

Niederwald . 

• 75 

Perroy . 


• 134 

Niederwyl 

• 97 

Peseux . 


. T17 

Niesen .... 

. 94 

Pestarena 


. 168 

Niklaus, St. . 

. 160 

Peteret, Mont. 


• 155 

Nolla, The . 

. 177 

Pfaffers, Abbey 


• 31 

Nollen, The (Grimsel) . 

. 89 

,, Bath 


• 31 

Notre Dame de la Gorge. 

. 146 

„ Village . 


• 31 

Notre Dame de Saxe 

. 121 

Pfaffikon 


• 52 

Nottwyl 

. 58 

Pfyn 


. 78 

Nufenen.... 

. 180 

Pie di Mulera 


. 168 

Nyon .... 

• 133 

Pierre, Chateau 


. 146 



Pierre a Bot . 


. 116 

Ober-Albis, The 

. 56 

Pierre Adzo . 


. 123 

Oberalp Pass . 

. 183 

Pierre a voir . 


. 122 

,, See . 

. 183 

Pierre, St., Island . 


• 113 

Obergestelen . 

• 75 

Pierre Pointue, Pavilion 

de 

• 151 

Oberried (Brienz) . 

. 91 

Pierre, Homme de. 


• 159 

Oberried (Rhine Valley). 

• 31 

Puciadella 


. 188 

Ober See 

. 116 

Pieterlen 


. 112 

Oberstaad 

• 25 

Pilatus . 


. 69 

Oberwald 

• 75 

Pissevache Falls 


. 121 

Obwalden 

. 78 

Piz Bernina . 


. 187 

Oche, Dent d’ 

. 144 

,, Campaccio 


. 188 

Oehnigen , . 

• 25 

,, Curver 


. 177 











INDEX. 


239 


PAGE 



PAGE 

Piz d’Albana . 

. . 184 

Reichenbach, River 


. 81 

,, del Diavel 

. 185 

„ Valley 


. 81 

„ Julier 

. . 184 

,, Falls. 


. 81 

,, Languard 

. 185 

Reiden . 


• 57 

,, Lugalp . 

. 188 

Remy, St. 


. 156 

,, Mundaun. 

. . 182 

Renens . 


• 133 

,, Otl . 

. . 187 

Renkloch, Gorge . 


• 63 

,, Pulaschin. . ‘ 

. 184 

Reposoir Valley 


. 146 

,, Raschill . 

. . 184 

Reuss, The . 

35 , 55 , etc. 

,, S. Michel. 

. 177 

Rheineck ^. 


• 30 

Pizzo Bianco . 

. . 167 

Rheinfelden . 


. 21 

,, Cima del 

. 167 

Rhine . . 15, 

24, 

189, etc. 

Plateau Grand (M. Blanc) . 153 

,, Falls 


. 22 

Pleiades, The. 

. 140 

Rhone, The . 


119, etc. 

Poleggio 

. . 176 

,, Glacier 


• 75 

Pontarlier 

. . I18 

,, Perte du 


. 132 

Ponte 

. 185 

Rhone and Arve, Confluence . 131 

Ponte Grande. 

. 168 

Richterschwyl. 


• 45 

Pontresina 

. . 187 

Riedbach, The 


. 160 

Ponts, Les 

. II7 

Riedwyl. 


• 97 

Porlezza 

. 193 

Riffelberg 


. 162 

Port Valais . 

. 119, 122 

Rigi 


. 70 

Porte du Sexe. 

. . 122 

,, Railway . 


• 71 

Porto 

. 189 

,, Kulm 


. 72 

Poschiavino Valley. 

. 188 

,, Scheideck 


• 74 

Poyaz . 

. 158 

,, Little 


. 62 

Prad 

. 189 

Ringgenberg, Castle 


• 91 

Pragel Pass . 

• 52 

Ripaille, La . 


. 143 

Prangins, Chateau . 

• 134 

Ritzligratli 


. 84 

Praz, Les 

. 157 

Roche . 


. 119 

Pre St. Didier 

• 155 

Roches, Les Grandes 


• 137 

Pregny . 

. I3I 

Roggwyl 


• 97 

Prex, St. 

. 133 

Rolle . _ . 


• 134 

Promonthoux. 

. 134 

Romainmotier 


. 119 

Proz, Plan de 

. 157 

Romanshorn . 

• 

30, 53 

,, Cantine de . 

• 157 

Romiti . ... 


• 71 

Pully . 

• II9, 137 

Romont . 


. no 



Rorschach 


• 30 

Radolphzell . 

. 25 

Rosa, Monte . 


. 164 

Ragatz . 

• 31 

Rosenlaui, Baths . 


. 82 

Randa . 

. 160 

,, Glacier. 


. 81 

Rapperschwyl. 

• 45 

Rossalp, The . 


. 84 

Bridge 

. 46 

Rossberg, The 


• 55 

Raterisboden . 

. . 89 

Rbthe, The 


. 112 

Raterschen 

. 54 

Rothenburg . 


. 58 

Realp . 

. 74 

Rothenfluh (Vitznau) 


. 65 

Reckingen 

• 75 

,, (Lauterbrunnen) . 87 

Reculet . 

• 133 

Rothenthurm . 


• 51 

Reichenau 

. 25 

Rbthihom 


. 84 

,, Island . 

• 25 

Rothkreuz 


• 55 

Reichenbach . 

... 96 

Rothplatt Gacier . 


. 167 

,, Castle. 

. 98 

Roth-See 

• 

• 63 















240 


INDEX. 


Rotzberg, Castle 
Rotzloch 

Rouges, Aiguilles . 
Ruppersweil . 

Rusein Piz 
Ruseiner Tobel 
Ruthi (Rhine Valley 
,, (Rapperschwyl) 
,, (Stachelberg) 


Saas 

Saas Thai 
Sacconex, 


Grand 

Petit 


Sachseln. 

Sackingen 
St. Maria 
St, Moritz 
St. Valentine . 

Saleve . 

Sallanches 
Salle, La 
Sallenche, The 
Saltine, The . 

Salvan . 

Salvatore, Monte San 
Samaden 
San Bernardino Pass 
San Giulio, Island 
San Vittore . 

Sand Grat Pass 
Saphorin, St. 

Sargans . 

Sarine, The 
Samen . 

,, Lake 
Samer See 
Sarnico . 

Sarraz, La 
Sauvabellin 
Saxe, La, Baths 
,, Mont de 
,, Notre Dame de 
Saxon, Baths of 
Scanf 

Scesaplana, The 
Schachenbach, The 
Schachenthal, The 
Schadau, Schloss 
Schaffhausen . 

Schams, Valley of 
Schanis . 


PAGE 
. 64 

Schanzli. 

. 64 

Scheideck, The Great 

. 148 

,, The Little 

• 35 

Scherzligen 

• 53 

Schilt, The . 

• 53 

Schilthom 

• 31 

Schinznach 

. 43 

Schollenen, The 

• 53 

Schlieren 

Schlossberg, The . 

. 166 

Schmadribach, Fall 

. 166 

Schmerikon . 

• 131 

Schmitten 

• 131 

Schneehorn, The . 

. 79 

Schonbiihl 

. 21 

Schbnenwerth 

. 189 

Schreckhorn, The . 

. 186 

Schuls . 

. 188 

Schiipfen 

• 132 

Schiipfheim 

. 147 

Schwanden 

• 155 

Schwarenbach 

. 121 

Schwarzbrunnenbriicke 

• 77 

Schwarzenbach 

. I 2 I 

Schwarzenberg, Glacier 

• 193 

Schwarzhorn, The . 

. 186 

Schwarz See, The . 

. 180 

Schwarzwald, Glacier 

• 193 

Schweiningen. 

. 181 

Schwesterbom 

• 53 

Schwyz . 

• 137 

Schynige Platte, The 

• 31 

Scionzier 

. 108 

Secheron 

. 78 

Sedriin . 

. 78 

Seeboden Alp. 

. 78 

Seelisberg 

• 193 

Seewinen, Glacier . 

. 119 

Segnes Pass . 

• 137 

Seigne, Col de la . 
Selbsanft, The 

• 154 

. 154 

Selzach . 

. 121 

Sembrancher . 

. 169 

Sempach 

. 188 

,, Lake of . 

• 31 

Sense, The 

. 173 

Sentis, The . 

. 173 

Septimer Pass. 

• 95 

Serena, Col de la . 

. 24 

Serenbach, Falls 

. 178 

Seruf Thai 

. 44 

Serrieres, Ravine . 


5 - 



PAGE 
. io6 
. 82 
. 85 

• 95 

• 52 
87 

35 

173 

36 

82 

87 

46 

108 

85 

97 

35 

82 

188 

98 
108 

52 

96 

88 

54 

167 

84 

164 

82 

184 

72 

I, 66 

94 

146 

131 

183 
72 
66 
167 

53 
154 

53 
112 

157 

58 

58 

108 

54 

184 

154 

47 

53 

117 















INDEX. 

241 

Servoz . 


PAGE 

• 147 

Suchet Mont . 

PAGE 

I18 

Setteino Vittore 


• 155 

Sulgen .... 

. 53 

Setter, The . 


• 54 

Sulpice, St. . 

. 134 

Sevelen . 


• 31 

Sursee .... 

• 58 

Sexon, Gorge. 


. 116 

Susten .... 

. 77 

Sidelhom, The 
Siebenen 


. 89 

• 52 

T^ertschi 

. 107 

Sierre 


. 170 

Tamina, The . 

• 31 

Signal (Lausanne) . 


• 137 

Tamins .... 

. 189 

Signalkuppe, The . 


. 165 

Tannay .... 

• 133 

Signau . 


. 107 

Tanzenberg . . . 

• ^5 

Signaye . 


. 156 

Tarasp, Baths of . 

. 188 

Sihl, The 


• 43 

Tasch .... 

. 161 

Silberhom, The 


. 85 

Tavanasa 

. 182 

Silber Pass 


. 166 

Tavetsch Valley 

. 183 

Silenen . 


. 173 

Tell’s Chapel 

. 72 

Sils, Lake of . 


. 186 

Tell’s Platte . 

• 67 

Silvaplana 


. 186 

T6te Noire (St. Gervais) 

. 148 

Simelihom, The 


. 84 

,, (Martigny) . 

• ^57 

Simplon Pass . 


. 171 

Th’aliboden Glacier 

. 167 

Singen . 


• 25 

Theodule Glacier . 

. 164 

Sion 


. 170 

,, Pass 

. 169 

Simach . 


• 54 

Theodulhom, The 

. 169 

Sisikon . 


. 68 

Thiele, The . 

. 118 

Sissach . 


• 35 

Thonon .... 

. 142 

Siviriez . 


. no 

Thorishans 

. 108 

Sixt Valley 


. 146 

Thun .... 

• 95 

Soazza . 


. 181 

,, Lake 

. 94 

Soleure . 


, Jii 

Thur, The 

• 54 

Solothum 


. Ill 

Thurmbei^ 

. 94 

Sommerau 


• 35 

Thusis .... 

. 177 

Sparrenhorn, The . 


• 77 

Ticino, The . 

• 175 

Spiessbriicke, The . 


. 161 

Tiefenau, Bridge 

. 98 

Spliigen , 


. 178 

Tines, Les 

• 157 

Stachelberg, Baths . 


• 52 

Tinzen .... 

. 184 

Stafa 


• 44 

Tirano .... 

. j88 

Staffel . 


• 71 

Tithis .... 

. 64 

Staffelhohe 


• 71 

T6di .... 

• 53 

Stalden . 


. 160 

Todtensee 

. 89 

Stalla 


. 184 

Tour, La 

• 159 

Stanzer Horn, The . 


. 65 

Toumanche Val . 

. 170 

Stanzstad 


. 64 

Tour Ronde, La 

• 143 

Staubbach, The 


. 86 

Tourtemagne . 

• 77 

Stechelberg . 


. 87 

„ Valley 

• 77 

Steckborn 


• 25 

Trachsellauinen 

. 87 

Stein 


25 » 37 

Trafoi .... 

. 189 

Stelvio Pass . 


. 189 

Trefenkasten . 

. 184 

Stockalper Canal . 


. 123 

Treib .... 

. 66 

Stockhorn, The 


. 94 

Trelatete, Aiguille de 

• ^53 

Stoss, The 


. 66 

,, Pavilion de 

• 154 

Stresa 


. 190 

,, Glacier de 

. 154 

. 158 

Subigen . 

• 

. Ill 

Trelechamp . 

r A 


10 










242 


INDEX. 




PAGE 

Tremola, Val. 


. 176 

Trient . 


. 159 

,, Col de . 


• 159 

,, Forest of 


• 159 

,, Gorge du 


. I 2 I 

Trieve, Falls . 


. I 2 I 

Triftjoch Pass 


. 165 

Trins 


. 189 

Triphon, St., Ollon 


. II9 

Triquent, Gorge 


. I 2 I 

Trogen . 


• 54 

Trons 


. 182 

Trabbach 


• 31 

Trumlenbach, Falls 


. 86 

Tnimletenthal 


. 85 

Tschamut 


. 183 

Tschingelbriike, The 


. 88 

Tschingel Spitz 


• 53 

Turgi . 


• 36 

Turr, La, Castle of. 


. 178 

Tiirter See 


• 56 

Twann . 


• *13 

Uetliberg, The 


. 41 

„ Railway 


. 42 

U fnau, Island 


. 44 

Ulrichen 


• 75 

Unspunnen, Castle 


. 87 

Untere-Bleicki 


. 94 

Untersee, The 


• 25 

Upper Engadine . 


. 186 

Upper Glacier (Grindelwald) 

• 83 

Urbachthal, The . 


. 88 

Urdorf . 


• 54 

Uri, Lake 


. 67 

,, Valley of 


• 174 

Urner Loch . 


. a 74 

Urseren, Valley 

• 74, 183 

Uster 


• 43 

Uttweil. 


• 30 

Uznach . 


. 46 

Uzwyl . 

• 

• 54 

Vaduz . 


• 3 * 

Val Bregaglia 


. 179 

Val Calanca . 


. 181 

Val d'llliez . 


. 123 

Val d’Orbe . 


. 118 

Val Moutier . 


. 113 

Val des Ormons 

. 

. 119 

Val Mesolcina 


. 181 



PAGE 

Val Piora 

. . 182 

Val Somvix . 

. . 182 

Val Surpalix . 

. 183 

Valbella, Pass of . 

. . 184 

Valle S. Giacomo . 

. 179 

Vallendas 

. . 182 

Vallorbes 

. 119 

Valorcine 

. 158 

Valtellina 

188 

Vanzone 

. 168 

Varembe 

. 131 

Varese . 

• 193 

Vaud . 

• 133 

Vauderens 

. . HI 

Vauxmarcus, Castle 

. II7 

Velan, Mont . 

. I 2 I, 157 

Verena, St., Hermitage . .112 

Verlorenes Loch 

. . 178 

Vernayaz 

. . 121 

Vernex-Montreux . 

“9, 133, *41 

Verolliar, Chapel . 

. . 120 

Versam . 

. . 182 

Versoix . 

• 133 

Verte Aiguille 

• 153, 157 

Vesenaz. 

. . 142 

Vevey . 

” 9 , * 33 , 138 

Veveyse, The 

. 131 

Veylaux-Chillon 

” 9 , 133, *41 

Via Mala 

. 178 

Vierwaldstatter See 

. 63 

Viesch . 

. . 76 

Viescher-Horner 

. 76 

Viescher Glacier 

. 76 

Villard . 

. . 119 

Villaz, St. Pierre . 

. . HO 

Villeneuve (Leman) 

*19, 133, 142 

,, (Aosta) . 

• *55 

Villette, La . 

• *53 

Visp 

. 77, 160 

Visp, Gorner . 

. . T 60 

Visp, Saaser . , 

. . 160 

Vispach 

. 77, 160 

Visp Thai 

. . 160 

Vitznau . 

. 65 

Viviers, Grotto 

. 144 

Vogtsruhe 

. 94 

Voirons, Les . 

. 132 

Vrinthal 

. 182 

Vougy . 

. 146 

Vouvry . 

. 123 

Voza, Col de . 

. 148,153 

Vulpera. 

. 188 












Wadenschwyl. 
Waldisbalm, Grotto 
Waldshut 
Wallenstadt . 

,, Lake 
Wallisellen 
Wannehorn, Grosse 
Warton, Castle 
Wartenstein, Ruins 
Wasen . 

Wattingen 
Wauwyl. 

Weggis . 
Weinfelden 
Weingarten, Castle 
Weissbach, The 
Weissbad 
Weissenstein . 
Weiss Glacier 
Weisshorn, The 
W eisshomgletscher 
Weissthor Pass 
Wengenstein . 
Wengem Alp . 
Wesen . 
Wetterhorn 
Wetzikon 
Whilen . 
Wiesendangen 
Wiggis, The . 
Wilschingen . 
Wildegg. 
Wilderswyl 
Wildgerst, The 
Wildkirchli, The 



INDEX. 


243 


45 

Winkeln. 


• 54 

• 

65 

Winkelmatten. 


. . 162 

« 

21 

Winterthur 


25, 53 
. . 108 

• 

47 

Wohlhausen . 


• 

47 

Wohlhusen 


. . 108 

43 

53 

Wollishofen . 


. . 56 

• 

76 

Worb . 


. .107 

• .134 


31 

Wufflens Chateau 


« 

32 

Wyl . 


. 54 

• 

173 

173 

Wyningen 

# 


. 97 

• 

57 

65 

53 

77 

82 

Y verdon. 


. . 118 

• 

Y voire . 


. 134, 142 

• 

• 

Yvome, Mount 


. . 119 

• 

54 

Zapport Glacier 


. . 180 

• 

112 

Zasenberg 


. 83 

• 

88 

Zaziswyl. 


. . 107 

• 

160 

Zermatt. 


. . 161 

• 

161 

,, Glacier 


. 164 

• 

165 

Zemetz . 


. 188 

• 

112 

Zihl, The 


. 97 

• 

85 

Zillis 


. . 178 

• 

47 

Z’mutt . 


. . 161 

• 

82 

Zofingen 


• 57 

• 

43 

Zollikofen 


• 97 


21 

Zug 


. 54, 184 

• 

53 

,, Lake 


• 55 

• 

52 

Zumsteinspitze 


. 165 

• 

21 

Zurich . 


• 37 

• 

35 

,, The Munster 

. 39 

• 

87 

,, Lake . 


• 43 

• 

84 

Zweiliitschinen 


. . 84 

• 

54 

Zwerglbcher . 


• 94 















TOURIST’S MEMORANDA. 


- oopc^ijo- 




®0iirisfs ittmorattira* 

•, ■ ■ t ■ y ■ 








V 







ft 






'■f 




{ 


. fts*: . 







i 




I 













D 



®0unsf a 'iWmorania, 


r. 





f 


L. 


r 




■ ‘ t. 


f 



* i 






V 


* ^ 


« 









iourbt’a #moran&a 












ADVEE TI8EMENTS. 


1 


IMPORTANT TO AMEHXCAnS, 



. C. WILLIAMS, 

MANUFACTURING FURRIER, 

102, REGENT STREET, LONDON, W., 

r 

Bep'S to call the attention of his numerous Patrons to his 


large and well-selected Stock of 






5 


SEAL SKIN JACKETS, 
Rimian Ssihle, Sable Tail^ 

CHINCHILLA, ERMINE, ETC,, ETC. 


The Manufacturing Department being entirely under 
the supervision of Mr. Williams, he is able to offer his 
Customers the advantages of dealing direct with the 
producer. 


102, REGENT STREET, LONDON, W. 












2 


AB VBETI8E MEETS. 



37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 


ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES OF AEWLY I AVERTED AND 
REGISTERED ARTICLES POST FREE. 



ALLEN’S PATENT ALLEN’S PATENT ALLEN’S PATENT 

BAG. DESPATCH-BOX DESK. QUADRUPLE PORTMANTEAU. 



The VICTORIA DRESSING SOLID LEATHER TEN GUINEA SILVER 
BAG. GLADSTONE BAG. DRESSING BAG. 



ALLEN’S NEW DESPATCH BOX LADY’S WARDROBE 

DRESSING BAG, (Registered), PORTMANTEAU. 


PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED 

FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. 

















































































ADVERTISEMENTS. 3 


IMPORTANT CAUTION. 


The MACASSAR OIL for the hair, ODONTO for the Teeth, 
and KALYDOR for the Face. Manufactured by A. ROWLAND 
& SONS, of 20, Hatton Garden, London, for the last 80 years, and 
bearing their signature in red ink on the wrapper, are the only 
genuine articles sold under these or any SIMILAR names : therefore, 
do not be persuaded to buy worthless imitations of Rowland’s 
Macassar Oil, Kaltdor or Odonto, however cheap. 



ROWLAND’S MACASSAR OIL 

Prevents the hair falling off, and eradicates scurf and dandriff. Sizes 
3 s. 6d., 7 s., 10 s. 6d.; family bottles, equal to four small, and 21 s. 

ROWLAND’S EUKONIA 

Is a new and fragrant Toilet Powder, specially recommended to ladies. 

Size 3 s. per box; or double that size with Puff, 5 s. 

ROWLAfilD'S ODONTO 

Whitens the Teeth and prevents and arrests their decay. 2s. 9 d. 

per box. 

ROWLAND’S KALYDOR 

Eradicates Freckles, Tan, Sunburn, and Cutaneous Eruptions, and 
produces a beautiful and healthy complexion. During hot 
weather it has a most cooling and refreshing effect on the face 
and hands. 4 s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per bottle. 


Sold by most respectable Chemists and Druggists all over the ivorld. 
Ash for ItOJFIiAND’S Articles, 20, Hatton Garden, London. 











































4 


advertisements 


BENJAMIN EDGINGTON, 



Flags of all Nations for Sale or Hire. ^ ^ 

Flags and Banners emblazoned with Arms and Devices to order. 

Sun Blinds and Conservatory Shades, 

Garden Netting, New and Repaired. in . 

Cotton Netting for Preservation of Fruit Trees from ± rost. 

Rick Cloths, New and Secondhand, with Poles, &c., complete. ^ 

Cart and Waggon Cloths, of Improved Pliable Waterproof Material. 

Address, BENJAMIN EDGINGTON (only), 2, Duke Street, London Bridge, S.E. 

No OTHER Establishment. 



JOSEPH .GILLOTT’S 

STEEL PENS. 

So/d by all Dealers throughout the World. 


I 

































































ADVERTISEMENTS. 


THE PRIMA DONNA 



LOCK-STITCH 

HAND 

SEWING 


MACHINE. 

Awarded the First Prize 
in competition with all the 
leading makers. 

PRICE FOUR GUINEAS. 


TREA DLE SOs. and 35 g. EXTRA. 

The PRIMA DONNA ” is extremely simple, easy to learn. 
It ivill stitch, hem, fell, braid, hind, gather, tuck, quilt, and do 
all the sewing required in a family. 

For ladies in delicate health, to whom exertion would he 
injurious, the Prima Donna'’ Lock-Stitch Shuttle Hand 
Machine will prove a real boon. 

In its construction the defects of other Machines have been 
avoided, and it combines every recent improvement. 

The working parts being covered, the fabric to be sewed is 
perfectly protected from oil. 

Its stitch is very strong and durable, far surpassing the best 
hand work. It can be placed upon the most valuable table 

without causing the slightest injury. 

It can be worked either by hand or treadle. Mounted on 
elegant stand the 'price is 14 s. 

Feu 1 imonTal. ~~~ 

EAGLE HOUSE, ECCLE8HALL, 
Messrs. WEIGHT 4' MANN, September IHh, 1876. 

Dear Sirs,—Please send me another Packet of Needles. Your Machine, 
ivhich I had more than Txcelve Years ago, is still working satisfactorilv- 
__ Yours truly, LOUISE E. TUNNICLIFFE. 



PATENTEES AND MANUFACTURERS, 

12, Holhorn Burs, London, E.C. 





































6 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


TIE lEW WILCOX AID GIBBS 

SILENT SEWING MACHINE 

WITH 

AUTOMATIC TENSION, 

AND OTHEE IMPOETANT PATENTED IMPEOVEMENTS. 


A TRULY MARVELLOUS IMPROVEMENT in Sewing 
Machinery. It does away with the LAST OP THE 
DIFFICULTIES in using the Sewing Machine, while it 
also renders certain the doing of 

PERFECT SEWING, even by beginners — PERFECT in 
SECURITY, PERFECT in BEAUTY, PERFECT in 
DURABILITY. It leaves nothing to the judgment of the 
operator beyond the choice of the style of work to be done. 
After that choice 

ALL IS DONE by this New Sewing Machine, which is in every 
respect the most PERFECT Sewing Machine yet made. 
Perfectly adapted to all the requirements of Family Sewing, 


A MONTH’S FREE TRIAL AT HOME. 

Car7'iage Paid. Price List Post Free. 


WILCOX & GIBBS SEWIIG MACHINE CO., 

Chief Office for Europe— 150 , CHEA.PSIDE, LONDON, 
West-end Branch— 135 , EEGENT STEEET. 

Branches at Manchester, Glasgow, Brighton, and Canterbury. 


CERTIFIED AGENTS IN ALL TOWNS. 







AD VERTI8DMENT8. 


7 


ROYAL BEVONSHIRE SERGE 

MADE OF SELECTED & ELASTIC STAPLE WOOLS. 

Eo other Article manufactured equals this in general utility. 

It 13 Woven for Ladies’ Dresses in Navy Blue and other solid colours, and in 
Heather or Homespun Mixtures, price 1/li, 2/6, & 2/11 per yard • 
also in Light- VV eighted Yarns for Summer Use. ’ 

And for Children’s Wear in White and Navy Blue at l/«i per yard. 

Hard Wear are Extra Milled and Strengthened, 
as also those for Gentlemen’s Suits; prices, 54 inches wide, from 4/9 per yd. 
-Book of Patterns containing 100 will be sent on application to 

SPEARMAN & SPEARMAN, Devonshire Serge Factors, Plymouth. 


N.B.—the royal DEVON SERGE is the only true Yachting Serge; 
sea-water cannot iojure it. Good wear is positively guaranteed by tne (actors. 
Who cut any length desired, and send parcels over Two Bounds in value, carriage paid, 
to Bristol or London, and by steamer to Dublin, Belfast, Coik, Waterford, and Glasgow. 


Heavy and Light Qualities are specially made in dust colours for travelling. 


PHOTOGRAPHY FOR TOURISTS 

THE TBIUMPH OP THE PHOTOGB-APHIC AST IS 

THE NEW POCKET CAMERA OF 


OUCH AND CO., which requires no previous know- 

ledge of photography. Extensively used by tourists and travellers, no chemicals 
required in the field, the prepared plates are marvels of sensitiveness, will keep for 
years in any climate, price 33. 6d. per dozen ; every plate guaranteed to produce a pic¬ 
ture ; Camera, three double slides. Alpenstock tripod. Boss’s lens, and sling patent 
leather case, price complete £7 10s.; larger size, No. 2, 5in. by 4in., price complete 
JE8 17 s. 6d. These appliances being made in our own workshops, no other make can 
equal them for quality. Fullest particulars post free, or at the Manufactory. 

W. W. ROUGH and CO., 180 , Strand, London. Established 1851 . 


WORKS ON SEA-SICKNESS AND NEURALGIA. 

SEA-SICKNESS, AND HOW TO PREVENT IT : an Explanation of its 
Nature, and successful Treatment, through the Agency of the Nervous 
System, by means of the Spinal Ice-Bag, with an Introduction on the 
General Principles of Neuro-Therapeutics. By John Chapman, 
M.D., M.R.O.P., M.R.C.S., late Physician to the Farringdon Dispen¬ 
sary, and late Assistant-Physician to the Metropolitan Free Hospital. 
Second Edition, in 8vo, price 3 s. 

Also, hy the same Author, 

NEURALGIA, AND KINDRED DISEASES OF THE NERVOUS SYSTEM: 

their Nature, Causes, and Treatment ; also a Series of Cases, preceded 
by an Analytical Exposition of them, exemplifying the Principles and 
Practice of Neuro-Dynamic Medicine. 8vo, cloth, 14 s. 

London: J. & A. Churchill. Paris: Librairie Galignani, 224 , Rue de Rivoli. 










8 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


LONDON, CHATHAM, & DOVER RAILWAY. 

LONDON & PARIS IN 10 HOURS, 

VIA DOVER AND CALAIS. 

THREE SPECIAL EXPRESS SERVICES DAILY, SHORTEST SEA PASSAGE, 80 MINUTES. 
By Splendid new Boats, built expressly for this Service. 

Victoria Station, West End Central Terminus ; Holborn Viaduct and Ludgate 

Hill, City Termini. 

Express Daily Direct Fixed Service of Mail Steamers and Special Express Trains. 



l&2nl. Exp. 

Ist cl. Exp. 



1 & 2cl. Exp. 

Istcl. Exp. 

Victoria (W. End Sta.) dep 

7 40 a.m. 

8 20 p.m. 

Paris - 

- dep 

7 35 a.m. 

7 45 p.m. 

Holborn Viaduct 

7 33 „ 

8 15 „ 

Calais - 

- arr 

1 10 p.m. 

1 20 a.m. 

Lodsate Hill (City Sta.) 

7 38 „ 

8 18 „ 

Calais . 

. dep 

1 20 „ 

1 30 „ 

Dover . - - - arr 

9 ‘25 „ 

10 18 „ 

Dover . 

arr. about 

3 0,. 

3 40 „ 

Dover . . - . dep 

9 35 „ 

10 20 „ 

Dover . 

- dep 

3 45 ,, 

4 15 „ 

Calais - - arr. about 

11 15 

12 10 a.m. 

Ludgate 

Hill (City Sta.) arr 

5 45 „ 

6 15 „ 

Calais ... - dep 

12 35 p.m. 

1 20 „ 

Holborn Viaduct - ,, 

5 48 „ 

6 18 

Paris .... arr 

6 5 „ 

0 20 

Victoria (W. End Sta. ,, 

5 45 ,, 

6 15 „ 


Fassengers have the option of proceeding from or to Dover by any other Train on the London, 

Chatham, and Dover Railway. 

The Sea Passage between Dover & Calais is the shortest between England & the Continent. 


RETURN TICKETS between IjONDOI^ and PARIS—First Class, £4 15s., 
Second Class, £3 15s., available for one month. 

Baggage can l)e Registered from London to Paris daily during the month, 
and vice versa. 


Mail and Express Service to BELGIUM, GERMANY, and the RHINE, 

Via Dover and Calais. 


* FROM LONDON. 

• TO LONDON. 

Places from. 

Day 

Service. 

Nignt 

Service, 

Places from. 

Night 

Service. 

Day 

Service. 

Lond. (Victoria) - . dep 

,, (Holborn Viad.) „ 

,, (Ludgate Hill) - „ 

Dover .... arr 
Dover .... dep 
Calais . . . . , 

LiUe - - - . „ 

Brussels ... arr 

„ - - - - dep 

Aix-la-Chapelle - - „ 

Cologne ... arr 

7 40 a.m. 

7 35 ,, 

7 38 „ 

9 25 

0 35 ,, 

12 15 p.m. 

2 2> ,, 

4 55 „ 

5 20 

10 5 „ 

11 30 „ 

8 20 p.m. 

8 15 

8 18 „ 

10 18 „ 

10 20 „ 

1 55 a.m. 

4 10 „ 

6 .50 „ 

9 a5 „ 

2 “>3 

-o ,, 

4 0 pm. 

Cologne - - - dep 

Aix-la-Chapelle - - „ 

Brussels ... arr 
dep 

Lille 

Calais 

Dover - - arr. about 

Dover .... dep 
Lond. (Ludgate Hill • arr 
„ (Holborn Vlad.) ,, 

„ (Victoria) - ... 

10 .50 p.m. 
12 29 a.m. 

4 38 „ 

7 20 „ 

10 18 „ 

1 20 p.m. 

3 0 „ 

3 45 „ 

5 45 ,. 

5 48 „ 

5 45 „ 

11 40 a.m. 

1 17 p.m. 

6 30 ,, 

8 27 „ 

10 55 ,, 

1 30 a.m. 

3 40 „ 

4 15 

0 15 „ 

6 18 „ 

6 15 


* 1st and 2nd class by the 7.35 a.m. Train, but Passengers are booked through 2n<i 
class on the understanding that they pay the difference of fare if they wish to proceed 
by Trains that are 1st class only on the Continent. 1st class only by the 8.15 i^.m. Train. 

.Through Tickets are issued (including Steward’s Fee) via Calais, to all the 
principal Continental Towns. 

Note. —Passengers are particularly requested to observe that all Registered Baggage 
from the Continent for Victoria Station is examined at Victoria ; if for Ludgate Hill ov 
Holborn Viaduct, at Dover, in the Custom House at the Dover Station. 

The QUEENBOROUGH and FLUSHING ROUTE to the CONTINENT is now 
OPEN for passengers, goods, and parcels, by special Express Trains on the LONDON, 
CHATHAM, and DOVER Railway, from Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, and Ludgate Hill 
Stations, and the Royal Mail Steamers of the Zeeland Company. The Trains run along¬ 
side the Boat from the New Pier at Queenboro’, and Passengers land and embark under 
cover. Great reduction in Fares- Sleeping accommodation on board the Steamers. 
For Fares and particulars apply to General Manager’s Office, London, Chatham, and 
Dover Railway, Victoria Station; or to Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son, Ludgate Circus; and 
John P. Best, 122, Cannon Street. 

OFFICES where THROUGH TICKETS and INFORMATION can he obtained 

Chief West End Office— Victoria Station Cologne—Mr. J.Niessen,12, Domhof Platz 
City Offices— Ludgate Hill Station Calais—Mr. W. Thomsett, Vice-Consul. 

„ Holborn Viaduct Station. Paris—Mr. G. Waters, No. 30, Boulevard 
Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son, Ludgate Cir- des Italiens. [de la Cour. 

cus, London Agents. Brussels Office—Mr. Suffel, 81, Montague 

THE CONTINENTAL TIME BOOK of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway 
contains full information as to the above Routes, Fares, &c., and can be obtained on 
application to the General Manager, Victoria Station; or at Thos. Cook & Son’s 
Ludgate Circus. ’ 









































AD VER VISE MEETS. 


9 


MIDLAND RAILWAY. 


The Picturesque Route between London & Manchester & Liverpool, 
through Matlock and the Peak of Derbyshire, 


THE NEW TOURIST ROUTE TO SCOTLAND, 

Via THE SETTLE AND CARLISLE LINE, 

IS NOW OPEN. 


A Morning Express Train runs between London and Edin¬ 
burgh and Glasgow, in each direction, with Pullman Drawing¬ 
room Cars attached; and a Night Express Train runs in each 
direction, between the same places, with Pullman Sleeping Cars 
attached. First Class Passengers may avail themselves of the 
comfort and convenience of these luxurious Cars on payment of 
a small charge in addition to the Railway Fare, particulars of 
which may be ascertained at the Stations. 

PULLMAH DRAWn&.ROOM AID SLEEPII& CARS 

are also run by certain Trains between London and Liverpool, and 
London and Leeds ; and a Drawing-room Car between London and 
Manchester, and London and Bradford. 

The Official Time Tables of the Company, and every informa¬ 
tion respecting their Trains and arrangements, may be obtained at 
any of the Stations of the Line. 

Tickets for all parts of the Midland Railway are issued by Thos. Cook & Son, 
Ludgate Circus, and 445 , West Strand, London. 


THE MIDLAND GRAND HOTEL 


(One of the Largest Hotels in Europe), 
Containing upwards of 400 Bed-rooms, with spacious Coffee-room, 
Reading-room, and numerous Drawing-rooms, has been erected by 
the Company at the ST. PANCRAS TERMINUS, and will be 
found replete with every accommodation. The Company are also 
owners of 


THE QUEEN^S HOTEL, LEEDS, 

and the 

MIDLAND HOTEL, DERBY, 

Adjoining the Midland Railway Station in each of those Towns. 
BOTH FIRST CLASS HOTELS FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN. 
Derby, Sep^., 1876. JAMES ALLPORT, Gm. Manager, 









10 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


General Steam Navigation Co., 71, Lombard Street, and 37, Legent Circus, 

Piccadilly, London. 

GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. 

When the Company’s Vessels cannot come alongside the Irongate and St. 
Katharine’s Wharf, Passengers and their Luggage are conveyed hy 
Steam Tender to and from the Ships FKEE of CHARGE. 

lONBOW AND BOULOGNE. 

The Falcon, Rhine, Cologne, Moselle, or Concordia.—Direct from and to Iron- 

gate and St. Katharine’s Wharf. 

From I.011CI0U— Daily. From Boulogne —Daily 

FARES.—London to Paris, available for three days, 29s. 6d.; 25s.; 2Cs. 6d.; & 17s. 6d. 

LONDON AND HAVRE. 

Earl of Aberdeen.—From Irongate and St. Katharine’s Steam Wharf. 

From liOiiilon—Every Thursday. From Havre —Every Sunday. 

Fares (Steward’s Fee included).—Chief Cabin, 15s,; Fore Cabin, 10s. Return 
Tickets, 23s. 6d. and 15s. 6d. 

LONDON & OSTEND, THE RHINE, <& SWITZERLAND. 

The Swift aud Swallow.—From and to Irongate and St. Katharine’s Wharf. 
From lioniloii —Three times a week. From Osfend —Three times a week. 

FARES (Steward’s Fee included).—Chief Cabin, 18s.; Fore Cabin, 14s. Return 
Tickets, 27s. 6d. and 21s. 

LONDON & ANTWERP, THE RHINE, & SWITZERLAND. 

The Penguin, Hawk, Orion, Earl of Aberdeen, Capulet, Cosmopolitan, or 
Leo.—From and to Irongate and St. Katharine’s Wharf. 

From liOiitlon —Every Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 

From Antwerp—Every Tuesday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. 

FARES (Steward’s Fee included).—Chief Cabin, 24s.; Fore Cabin, 16s. Return 
Tickets, 37s. and 24s. 6d. 

LONDON AND HAIVJBURG, 

The Iris, Granton, Virgo, Rainbow, Martin, Nautilus, or Alford. 
From l.outlon —Every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 

From Hamburg—Every Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday. FARES (including 
Steward’s Fee).—Chief Cabin, 45s.; Fore Cabin, 29s. Return, Tickets, 68s. and 44s. 

LONDON AND ROTTERDARI AND THE RHINE. 

The Teal, Widgeon, Florence, Maas, or Dragon.—From and to Irongate 
and St. Katharine’s Wharf. 

From Lionilon —Every Wednesday and Saturday. 

From Kotterdam— Every Tuesday and Friday. The passenger season con¬ 
cludes at the end of October, and commences early in the year. FARES (Steward’s 
Fee included).— Chief Cabin, 18s.; Fore Cabin, 12s. 6d. Return Tickets, 28s. and 19s. 

LONDON AND EDINBURGH (Granton Pier). 

The Virgo and Libra.—From and to the Irongate and St. Katharine’s Wharf. 
From Loudon—Every Wednesday and Saturday. 

From Edinburgh (Granton Pier).—Every Wednesday and Saturday. 

FARES (Steward’s Fee included).—Chief Cabin, 22s.; Fore Cabin, 16s. Return, 
34s. and 24s. 6d.; Deck (Soldiers and Sailors only), 10s. 

LONDON AND NE^WCASTLE. 

The Wansbeck and Pilot.—From aud to the Irongate and St. Katharine’s Wharf. 
From liOiidon—Every Wednesday and Saturday. 

From ]Vewc!istle— Every Wednesday and Saturday. FARES-13s. 6d. and 
8s. 6d. Return Tickets, 21s. and 13s. Deck (Soldiers and Sailors only), 53. 

LONDON AND HULL. 

The Heron, Ostrich, Pioneer and Hamburg.—from and to the Custom House 
Quay, Lower Thames Street. 

From Eoiulon— Every Wednesday and Saturday at 8 mrn. 

From Hull— Every Wednesday and Saturday. FARES (Steward’s Fee included). 
w-Saloon, 9s. 6d.; Fore Cabin, 6s. 6d. Return Tickets, 15s, and 10s. 

^ . LONDON AND YARMOUTH. 

During the winter months there is a regular weekly steamer leaving London on 
Wednesday afternoon and Yarmouth on Saturday. During the summer there is a 
special daily service. FARES.—Saloon, 8s.; Fore Cabin, 6s. 

THOS. COOK & SON, AgenLs. 




ADVERTISEMENTS. 


n 


UNDER CONTRACT WITH H.M. POSTMASTER-GENERAL. 


THE 

PENINSULAR AND ORIENTAL 

Despatch their Steamers, FROM SOUTHAMPTON, vzd the 
Suez Canal, with H.M. Mails, as follows :— 

EVERY THURSDAY 

For GIBRALTAR, MALTA, PORT SAID, SUEZ, 
ADEN and BOMBAY. 

EVERY ALTERNATE THURSDAY 

For CEYLON {Galle), MADRAS, CALCUTTA, 
THE STRAITS, CHINA and JAPAN. 

EVERY FOURTH THURSDAY 

For AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND. 

Corresponding Steamers are despatched from VENICE 
every FRIDAY, and from BRINDISI every MONDAY to 
ALEXANDRIA with the Overland portion of the Mails and Pas¬ 
sengers. 


INDIAN PARCEL POST. 

The Company are authorised by the Director-General of the Post 
Office of India to receive Parcels for Delivery at any Post Town or 
District throughout India, at an uniform rate of Is. per pound or 
fraction of a pound weight. To Ceylon, Is. 4d. per pound. 

This charge covers the conveyance from London to the address 
in India, and may either be prepaid or paid on delivery. 


Nor Rates of Passage Money azid Fz'eight^ and all other infor¬ 
mation, apply at the Company's Offces, 

122, LEADENHALL STREET, E.C. 
BEANOH OPPICE 25, OOOKSPUK STEEET. 

Passengers can be booked at any of the Offices of Thos. Cook & Son. 












12 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


ROBATTINO & CO.’S ITALIAN MAIL STEAMERS. 

THOMAS COOK & SON, Passenger Agents. 


INDIAN LINE. 


EEGULAE. MONTHLY DEPARTURES (via Suez Canal) 


Prom Genoa to Bombay on tbe 
24tb, and from Naples on tbe 27tb 
of each niontli. 


From Bombay to Genoa on the 
1st, and from Aden on the 8th of 
each month. 


The steamers employed by the Company on this line are, as it is 
well known, all first rate English-built vessels, of 1,400 tons register, 
or about 2,500 tons burden, affording every comfort and convenience 
to passengers. Each vessel carries a qualified surgeon. 

The average passage from Naples to Bombay is performed in about 
18 to 19 days. 


Besides the regular monthly Indian Line the E. EUBATTINO’S 
Steam Navigation Company have many other important mail services, 
under contract with the Italian Government, as follows :— 


MEDITERRANEAN LINES. 


ALEXANDPvIA (Haypt) to ITALY. 


Alexandria to Genoa every 

7, 17, 27 .at 2 p.m. 

(Calling at Mess. Napl. & Legh.) 
Prom Naples to Genoa 

every 2, 12, 22 .at 2 p.m, 

Arr. at Genoa 4, 14, 24. 


Genoa to Alexandria every 

5, 15, 25 .at 7 p.nx. 

(Calling at Legh. Napl. & Mess.) 
Prom Naples to Alexandria 

8, 18, 28 .at 2 p.m, 

Arr. at Alexandria 3, 13, 23. 


Eegtjlar Departures from Genoa to Tunis, Genoa to Cagliari, 
Naples to Cagliari, Genoa to Portotorres, Genoa, Bastia, Madalena, 
Portotorres, Civita Vecchia to Madalena and Portotorres, Piombino to 
Portoferraio. 


The Company, in order to be agreeable to Passengers, will take 
charge in Genoa of their luggage if they desire to have it forwarded 
direct to England, France, or Germany. 

The Company also undertake to forward goods and any other 
article at any Port touched at by their Vessels, and from those Ports 
to any commercial Place in Europe, at through rates, addressing for 
information E. EUBATTINO and Co., Transit Office, Genoa. 

Insurance on Cargo shipped on hoard their Vessels can be effected at 
moderate terms according to the Contract stipulated with French 
Insurance Companies, whose information may be had at the Company’s 
Agencies. 













ADVERTISEMENTS. 


13 


NOTICE TO TRAVELLERS. 



INSURED AGAINST BY THE 


OCEAN, RAILWAY, & GENERAL ACCIDENT ASSURANCE 

HEAD OFFICES:—MANSION HOUSE BUILDINGS, LONDON. 

BIT SBEd-A.Xj ^CT OB 


Tickets covering the risk of travelling by any kind of conveyance throughout 
Europe may be had at any of Thos. Cook & Son’s Offices. 


£1,000 available for One Month 

Premium 5/- 

£500 „ „ 


3/- 

£200 


1/6 

£1,000 available for Three Months 

?> 

10/- 

£500 „ „ 


5/- 

£200 „ 

>> 

2/6 


©encral Si^cctUcnt ^Policies. 

£1,000 available for Twelve Months ... Premium 25/- 

ilailujau ^^oUcics for nisfts in tijc 2Enitei< litngtiom. 

£1,000 available for Twelve Months ... Premium 7/6 

Throughout Europe ... 10/- 

Double these Premiums secure a Weekly Allowance of 10/- for every £100 assured 

in cases of Disablement. 

giccibents at Sea. 

Policies to oa peom: any Poet in tee World at veey Low Rates. 


POLICIES ISSUED AT THE OFFICES OF THE COMPANY, 

AND BY 


THOS. COOK & SON, LUDGATE CIRCUS; and 445, WEST STRAND. LONDON. 


BIRMINGHAM—16, Stephenson Place. 
MANCHESTER—43, Piccadilly. 
LIVERPOOL-11, Ranelagh Street. 
LEEDS—1. Royal Exchange. 
BRADFORD—Front of Midland Station. 
DUBLIN—45, Dame Street. 
EDINBURGH-9, Princes Street. 


GLASGOW —165, Buchanan Street. 
PARIS -15, Place du Havre. 
COLOGNE-40, Domhof. 
BRUSSELS-22, Galerie dn Roi. 
GENEVA—90, Rue du Rhone. 
ROME—lb. Piazza di Spagna. 

NEW YORK-261, Broadway. 













14 


ADVEB TI8EMENT8. 


COOK’S EXCURSIONS, TOURS, 

' AND 

GENEEAL TEAVELLING AEEANGEIENTS. 


THOMAS COOK AND SON, 

piONEEES, InaugTirators, and Promoters of the principal systems of Tours 
established in Great Britain and Ireland, and on the Continent of 
Europe, are now giving increased attention to Ordinary Travelling Arrange¬ 
ments, with a view to rendering them as easy, practicable, and economical as 
circumstances will allow. During 36 years more than five millions of 
Travellers have visited near and distant places under their arrangements ; and 
their system of Tickets now provides for visiting the chief points of interest 
in the Four Quarters of the Globe. 


Cook’s West of England Tours, combining Railway, Coach, and Steamer 
to every point of interest between Bristol and the Land’s End. The Tickets are 
prepared in Coupon form, and can be issued in combination, to meet the requirements 
of the Tourist. Hotel Coupons are also issued for First Class Hotels in the District. 

Cook’s Scotch Tours cover all points of Tourist interest in Scotland, 
Oban, Staifa, Iona, Isle of Skye, Caledonian Canal, Kyles of Bute, the Trossachs, the 
Highlands, the Lake District, Edinburgh, etc.; and can be used in a similar manner to 
the Irish Tours. 

Cook’s Irish Tours.—Thomas Cook and Son issue Tourist Tickets to and 
through all parts of Ireland, including the Giant’s Causeway, Belfast, Dublin, Galway, 
Loch Erne, the Lakes of Killamey, etc. They can be used in connection with Tickets 
from London, or any town on the Midland Railway. 

Cook’s Tickets to Paris are available by the Shortest and Cheapest 

Routes, and by Dover and Calais. 

Cook’s Swiss Tickets are available by every Route, and Cover every 
part of the Country. Thomas Cook and Son are the only Authorized Agents of every 
Swiss Railway, Steamboat, and Diligence Company. Every Alpine route is included in 
their arrangements. 

Cook’s Italian Tickets provide for every Route to and through Italy, and 

are offered at great Reductions in Fares. 

Cook’s Tours to Holland, Belgium, and the Rhine, are arranged upon a 
most comprehensive basis. Tickets being provided for every Route, for single and 
return journeys, and for Circular Tours. Breaks of journey are allowed at all places of 
interest. 

Cook’s Personally-conducted Tours have become a most popular feature 
in their arrangements. Parties are organized to leave London weekly during the season 
for Switzerland, Germany, Italy, and various parts of the Continent. 

The Steam Navigation of the Nile is committed by the Khedive Govern¬ 
ment entirely to Thomas Cook and Son. The Steamers (the only ones on the Nde) 
ply between Cairo and the First Cataract (600 miles), and the Second Cataract (810 

miles). Tickets can be had, and Berths secured, at any of Thomas Cook and Son’s 
OfiBces. 

Tours to Palestine are rendered easy, safe, and economical, by the 
superior arrangements of Thomas Cook and Son, who now have their own Resident 
Manager in Beyrout and Jaffa. They are therefore prepared to conduct large or small 






A V VE RTISEMEN T8. 


16 


Cook’s Excursions and Tours— continued . 

parties in tlie most comfortable manner through the country; to Jerusalem, the Dead 
Sea, the Jordan, Damascus, Sinai, etc. The parties can be so fixed as to go indepen¬ 
dently or under personal management any time between October and April. Over one 
thousand ladies and gentlemen have visited Palestine under their arrangements. 

Turkey, Greece, the Levant, etc.—Thomas Cook and Son are now 
pared to issue Tickets by any line of Steamers, to any port touched by the Austrran 
Lloyd’s, Messageries Maritimes, and Eubattino Co.’s Steamers. 

India, China, etc.—Thomas Cook and Son are the Agents of the principal 
Steamship Companies of the world, and are prepared to issue Tickets from South¬ 
ampton, Venice, Ancona, Genoa, Naples, and Brindisi, to Alexandria, Aden, Bombay, 
Calcutta, Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, or any other point in India or China. 

Algerian Tours.—Thomas Cook and Son issue Tickets by any route 

to Algeria, and over the Algerian Bail ways and Diligences. 

Norway, Sweden, and Denmark.—Thomas Cook and Son now issue 
Tourist Tickets by all principal Eailways and Steamers for the most interesting parts 
of Scandinavia. 

Round the World.—Thomas Cook and Son are prepared to issue a direct 
travelling Ticket for a journey Round the World by Steam, available to go either West 
or East. First Class, from £190. 

Cook’s Hotel Coupons, available at over four hundred first-class Hotels 
in various parts of the world, can be had by travellers purchasing Cook’s TouriSt 
Tickets, guaranteeing them first class accommodation at fixed and regular prices. 

Passages to America and Canada are secured by Thomas Cook and Son 
for all the chief lines of Steamers. Arrangements are made for Tours through America, 
giving a choice of more than 200 Single and Tourist Tickets; and an Office has been 
opened in New York, under the joint arrangemeut of Cook, Son, and Jenkins, 261, 
Broadway. 

Thomas Cook and Son’s General Travelling Arrangements are so widely 
extended, that they can supply Tickets to almost any point that Tourists may wish to 
visit, in many cases at reductions, many ranging from twenty-five to forty-five per cent, 
below ordinary fares. The regular Travelling Ticket being issued in all cases printed in 
English on one side, and in the language of the country where it is used on the other, 
and it contains all the information the traveller needs. 

Policies of Insurance against accidents of all kinds, by land and sea, 
are effected through the Office of Thomas Cook and Son, as Agents of the “ Ocean, 
Railway, and General Accident Assurance Company, Limited.” 

Programmes can be had gratuitously, on application at the Ofl&ces of 
Thomas Cook and Son, or by post, in return for stamps covering postage. 

Cook’s Excursionist is published at short intervals during the season in 
London, New York, and Brussels, at 2d., post-free, 3d., and contains programmes and 
lists to the number of nearly one thousand specimen Tours. Tickets for which are 
issued by Thomas Cook and Son, with fares by every Route. 

Cook’s Continental Time Tables and Tourist Handbook, with Eight 

Sectional Maps, price Is. Published monthly. 


THOMAS COOK & SON, 

Chief Office i Ludgate Circus, Fleet Street, Loudon, E.C, 

WEST-END AGENCY: 

446, West Strand, (opposite Charing Cross Station and Hotel). 









16 


ADVEUTISmiENTS. 


GUIDE BOOKS. 


The following Books ca 7 i be obtahied at any of the Offces oj 
^THOS. COOK SO or sent by Post to any part of the U 7 iited 

Ki 7 igdo 77 i :— 

Cook’s Tourists’ Guide to Holland, Belgium, and 
the Rhine. Price 3s. 6d. With Maps. New Edition, 
enlarged. 

Cook’s Tourists’ Guide to Switzerland, showing all 
Routes to Paris, with descriptions of the places of interest. 
Price 3s. 6d. With Maps. New Edition. 

Cook’s Tourists’ Guide to the Black Forest. Price 

3s. 6d. With Map. 

New Guide to Ancient and Modern Rome. By 
SHAKSPERE WOOD. Price 6s. With Map. This work 
contains full Particulars of the recent Excavations in Rome. 
“ This is extremely well done. The information is clear and brief, given 
with judgment and good taste, and apparently exhaustive. It is 
hardly possible to conceive a more useful book for its especial pur¬ 
pose—that of guiding the hasty tourist to see as much as may be 
with the least expenditure of time.”— Guardian. 

Cook’s Tourists’ Guide to Northern Italy. Price 4s. 
With Maps. 

“Cook’s ‘Northern Italy’ will tell the traveller nearly all he wants to 
know of the chief cities of the North, including Florence, the 
approaches through the mountain passes from France, Switzerland, 
and Austria.’’— Graphic. 

Cook’s Tourists’ Guide to Southern Italy. Price 4s. 
With Maps. 

“Cook’s ‘Tourist Handbook to Southern Italy’ is another of those 
plain, unpretending guides, which, like Cook’s Coupons, are perhaps 
best suited for the inexperienced traveller, but to him will prove of 
more real service than the more voluminous and exhaustive manu als . 
It is as good a handbook as tourists can desire.”— Graphic. 

Cook’s Handbook to Venice. Price is. With Plan. 

Cook’s Handbook to Florence. Price is. With Plan. 

“Cook’s Handbooks to Florence and Venice form two handy little 
volumes full of reliable information .”—John Bull. 

Cook’s Handbook for Egypt, the Nile, and the 

Desert. Price 6s. With Five Maps. 

Cook’s Handbook for Palestine and Syria. Price 

7s. 6d. With Four Maps. 

A Few Words of Advice on Travelling and its 
Requirements. Addressed to Ladies. With Vocabulary in 
French and German, and other useful information. Price is. 




ADVERTISEMENTS. 


I 


17 


GUIDE BOOKS, &c , — continued. 

Cook’s Handbook for London. Full particulars of all 
places of interest, Railways, Omnibuses, Tramways, Steamers, 
Cab Fares, Churches, Chapels, Public Buildings, National 
Institutions, Museums, Picture Galleries, Law Courts, Theatres, 
Clubs and Club Houses, Banks and Bankers in London, Short 
Excursions in the Suburbs, Hotels, (S:c., &c. With Two Maps. 
Price 6 d. ; cloth gilt, lod. By post, yd. and is. 

Up the Nile by Steam. To the First and Second Cata¬ 
racts. With Maps. Price 6 d. 

Programmes of Personally-Conducted and Inde¬ 
pendent Palestine Tours with extensions to Egypt and 
the Nile. With Maps. Price 6d. 

Cook’s Excursionist. Published at short intervals dur¬ 
ing the Season, in London, New York, and Brussels ; and 
contains Programmes and Lists to the number of looo 
Specimen Tours ; tickets for which are issued byTHOS. CoOK 
& Son, with Fares by every Route. Price 2 d., or by Post 3 d. 

Cook’s Continental Time-Tables and Tourists’ 
Handbook. Contains the Time-Tables of the principal 
Continental Railway, Steamboat, and Diligence Companies, 
and includes Eight Sectional Maps, specially engraved; 
full directions as to Passports, Foreign Currency, etc. Com¬ 
piled and arranged under the personal supervision of Thomas 
Cook & Son. Price is. 

Cook’s Centennial Map of Atlantic Steamship 
Routes; and Tourists’ Map of Central Europe. The 
two in cloth case. Price 9 d. 


London: THOS. COOK & SON, Ludgate Circus,E.C. 

WEST END AGENCY—Midland Railway Office, 445, West Strand 
(opposite Charing Cross Station and Hotel). 


BRANCH OFFICES: 


BIRMINGHAM — 16, Stephenson 
Pl3«C0 

MANCHESTER— 43 , Piccadilly 
LIVERPOOL—11, Ranelagh Street 
LEEDS—1. Royal Exchange 
BRADFORD—Front of Midland Sta¬ 
tion 

DUBLIN—45, Dame Street 
EDINBURGH—9, Princes Street 


GLASGOW—165, Buchanan Street 
PARIS—15, Place du Havre 
COLOGNE—40, Domhof 
BRUSSELS-22, Galerie du Roi 
GENEVA—90, Rue du Rhone 
ROME—IB, Piazza di Spagna 
CAIRO—Cook’s Tourists’ Pavilion, 
Shepheard's Hotel 
JAFFA—Jerusalem Hotel 


AMERICAN HOUSE—COOK, SON & JENKINS, 261, BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 

o 







18 


AB VEU TI SEME NTS. 


SUNDAY SCHOOL UNION. 

t ' _ 

SUNDAY SCHOOL UNION. Established 1803. 

President for the year, Sir HENRY M. HAVELOCK, Bart., M.P., V.C., C.B. 
Treasurer, Sir CHARLES REED, F.S.A., Chairman of the London School Board. 


OBJECTS. 

To promote tlie Sunday School cause, by assisting in the formation of new 
schools and in the efficient maintenance of those already formed. 

To grant libraries to Sunday Schools and teachers at greatly reduced prices. 

To maintain a reference and lending library for teachers and senior scholars, 
at a merely nominal rate of subscription. Training class, lectures, visitation of 
schools, &c. 

The preparation and issue of numerous Sunday School publications. 

In addition to the work in Great Britain and the Colonies, a large sum is 
annually expended in promoting the establishment of Sunday Schools throughout 
the Continent of Europe, where the Union has several efficient agents actively 
and successfully engaged. 

FUNDS urgently NEEDED. Contributions will be thankfully received on 
behaK of the Committee by Mr. A. Benham, Hon. Finance Secretary, 56, Old 
Bailey, London, E.C. Cheques to be crossed Union Bank of London. 


In carrying out the objects of the Society, the Committee have issued a large 
number of publications in various branches of literature, all of which may be 
inspected and purchased at the 

BOOK SALOONS, 

Situate at 56, Old Bailey, London, E.C., where a very large stock of Books 
of different publishers is kept on sale. 

Few things can exceed in value the worth of a good book, for books are 
suitable to all times, seasons, places, occasions, and tastes. Milton has said, 
“As good kill a man as kill a good book,” and many of the world’s greatest 
intellects have testified how much they owe to the diligent use of their oppor¬ 
tunities for reading, and whether it be in the “ Institute ” or the “ Library,” the 
holiday ramble in the shady lane or upon the sea-shore, or for the fireside and the 
easy chair, nothing is so truly an unobtrusive companion and a quiet friend as a 
good book. 

Any who may be wishing to purchase books for the leisure hour, or for the 
purposes of study, should visit the above rooms, where they may inspect 
Elegantly Bound Books for Study or Recreation, Books of Travel and Adventure 
in Bible Lands. Books in which truth is enforced by the aid of Fiction. Works 
of Reference, Works Illustrative of Scripture, Works on the Principles and Art 
of Teaching, Works on School Management, Teachers’ Manuals, &c., &c., &c. 

Catalogues upon application to the Trade Manager. 


56. OLD BAILEY, LONDON. E.C. 













19 


A B VER TI SEME NTS. 


ILLUSTRATED BOOKS OF TRAVEL. 


By the Rev. SAMUEL MANNING, LL.D. 

American Pictures, drawn with Pen and Pencil. 

Profusely Illustrated in the best style of Wood En^ravinsr by eminent English 
and Foreign Artists. 8s. elegantly bouud in cloth gilt. Just published. 

Swiss Pictures, drawn with Pen and Pencil. 

With numerous Illustrations by Whymper and others. Imperial 8vo. 8s. cloth 
elegant. 

“ In this third edition there are so many additions and improvements that this 
very beautiful volume is still more attractive and beautiful than ever.”— Standaxd. 

Italian Pictures, drawn with Pen and Pencil. 

Profusely Illustrated. Imperial 8vo. 8s. cloth elegant. 

“ The more we turn over the pages of this book, the more we like it.”— Times. 

Spanish Pictures, drawn with Pen and Pencil. 

With Illustrations by Gustave Dord and other eminent artists. Imperial 8vo. 
8s. cloth elegant. 

“A volume that does credit to the writet and artists employed.”— Fall Mall 
Gazette. 

“Those Holy Fields.” Palestine Illustrated by Pen and Pencil. 
Profusely Illustrated. Imperial 8vo. 8s. cloth, gilt edges. 

“ The author is aided by upwards of a hundred wood engravings, all admirably ex¬ 
ecuted from sketches and photographs.”— Art Journal. 

The Land of the Pharaohs. 

Egypt andASinai : Illustrated by Pen and Pencil. . 

Profusely Illustrated with line Engravings. Imperial 8vo. 8s. handsomely 
bound, gilt edges. 

“Extremely well written, with admirable illustrations.”— Guardian. 

“ Full of spirited and highly finis^hed engravings.”— Standard. _ 

“A highly interesting description of Egypt and Sinai.”— tuhlic Opinion. 

“ No more charming book of this kind is known to us.”— Record. 

By the Rev. JOHN STOUGHTON, D.D. 

The Homes and Haunts of Luther. 

With numerous Engravings by Whymper and others. Small 4to. 8s. cloth 
boards, gilt edges. 

“ It has the advantage of containing in a pleasing shape all the facts about Luther 
likely to interest the general reader.”— Fall Mall Gazette. 

“ The engravings are really beautiful.”— Literary Churchman. 


“ The Leisure Hour has always been remarkable for its excellent sketches of 
travel in foreign lands.”— Scotsman. 

THE LEISURE HOUR, SIXPENCE, MONTHLY. 

The Volume for 1876, price 7s., contains a series of articles with illustrations on 
THE BORDER LANDS OF ISLAM. 

Slavs and Turks —Bosnia and Herzegovina.—Montenegro.—Servia.—Albania.—• 
Bulgaria.—Eoumania. 

LONDON: THE RELIGIOUS TRACT SOCIETY, 

56, Paternoster Row, 65, St. Paul’s Churchyard, 164, Piccadilly. 
Manchester : Corporation Street. Brighton : Western Road. 

May he had of any Bookseller. 









20 


AB VEBTISmiENTS. 


TOURIST’S SCIENTIFIC REQUISITES 


SUPPLIED BY 

MGRETTI & ZAMBBA. 


* Pocket Barometer, size of a Watcli, for foretelling 

Weatker, a most useful Instrument 

* Ditto, witk Scale of Altitudes for correctly ascer¬ 

taining the Height of Mountains 

* Tourist’s Binocular Glasses, giving distinct definition 

at 10 miles range, with Sling Leather Case 

* Ditto, with a range of 15 to 20 miles, £3 3s. to 

* Tourist’s Pocket Telescopes 

* Ditto, for a range of 10 miles 

* Ditto, ditto 15 to 20 miles, £4 4s, to 

* Pedometers, for Measuring Walking Distances, size 

of a Watch, in Silver Case 


£ s. d. 

3 3 0 

5 5 0 

2 2 0 

5 5 0 

110 
2 10 0 

5 5 0 

3 3 0 


THERMOMETERS, HYGROMETERS, POCKET SEXTANTS & COMPASSES, 

PRISMATIC COMPASSES, CLINOMETERS, Etc., Etc. 


All Instruments warranted of the "best and most aceurate 

construction. 



NEGRETTI & ZAMBRA, 

©Uiicians niut Jnstrum<;iit Palicrs 

TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN, H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES ; 

The Royal Observatory, Greemvich; the Admiralty; Honorable Board of 
Ordnance; Board of Trade ; The Aleteorological Society ; 

HOX-BORISr VIAIDTJCI* ; 

ALSO AT 

45, CORNHILL ; 122, REGENT STREET ; and CRYSTAL 

PALACE, SYDENHAM. 


* These are to he obtained at THOS. COOK & SON’S Office, 

Ludgate Circus. 








AD VEB TISEME NTS. 


21 


FOEEIGN MONEY EXCHANGE OFFICE. 

Best Current Bates, Special Advantages to CooTc’s Tourists. 

BAUM BROTHERS, 

37, HAYMAKKET, PICCADILLY, LONDON, S.W. 

Exchange and Deposit Bank. Established 1850. 

Messrs. BAUM BROTHERS continue to receive Money on Deposit, 
in sums of not less than .£10, at the following Rates of Interest:—^64 per 
Cent, per Annum at Three Months’ Notice of Withdrawal; .£5 per Cent. 
l)er Annum at Six Months’ Notice of Withdrawal; £G per Cent, per Annum 
at Twelve Months’ Notice of Withdrawal. 


Exchange and Deposit Bank, 

37, HAYMARKET, PICCADILLY, LONDON, S.W. 

ESTABLISHED 1850. 


The attention of the Travelling Public is particularly directed to a great variety of 

garments specially designed by 



TAILOR, 

294 & 295 , HIGH HOLBORN, LONDON, W.C. 


The No. 1 ULSTER OVERCOAT, 50s. to 70s. 

With moveable Cape and Belt, made of knotted or plain Irish Frieze, and other 
materials equally impervious to wind and rain. This coat has a double water¬ 
proof lining, and is a protector against the severest weather. 

The No. 2 ULSTER, 50s. to 80s. 

With moveable Hood and Belt, numerous compartments, &c.; made of Saxony 
Wools and Shetlands, with Windermere or Welsh Tweed bring. This coat 
combines great warmth with softness and pliabihty, and is most useful for 
railway travelling. 

The LEINSTER OVERCOAT, 42s. to 60s. 

With numerous additional improvements; made of Saxony Plaids, Cheviot 
Wools, and Homespuns in checks or self colours. This coat, being of less 
weight than the Ulsters, is more adapted for walking or general wear. 

The TRAVELLING SUIT, 50s. to 70s. 

Made of all Wool Scotch Tweed, texture and colours especially adapted for 
rough wear; made to order in all fashionable styles. 

KINO’S UNEQUALLED TROUSERS, from 13s. 

With Improved Clasp Fastener; all Wool materials; exclusive patterns. 

The business being conducted on the S.P.Q.B. principle, purchasers will derive the 
benefit resulting. All goods marked in plain figures for cash payment. 











22 


A T) VBRTISEMENT8. 


C O O 3ES.’ S 

BRITISH MUSEUM BOARDING HOUSE 

59, Great Russell Street, Rloomsbury, London. 

This Establishment is pleasantly situated, within three minutes’ walk of Oxford 
Street and High Holborn, the great Omnibus route to the City and the West End^ 
with easy facilities for visiting every part of the Metropolis. 


LEICESTER. 

Cook’s Commercial and Family Temperance Hotel, 

e3, OR-A.TCBY 

{Adjoining the Temperance Mall). 

Ladies and Gentlemen visiting Leicester, for purposes of Business or Pleasure, 
will find at this Establishment the ordinarj" comforts of a quiet home, in close 
proximity to the chief centres of commerce. The Hotel is situated in the principal 
thoroughfare, within five minutes’ walk of the Railway Station, and about an eqnal 
distance from the principal Banks, Public OiRces, Mercantile Establishments, 
Markets, Post Office, &c. An Ordinary is provided daily at One o’clock. 


THE MIDLAND GRAND HOTEL, LONDON- 

R. ETZENSBERGER, Manager. 

The Midland Grand Hotel, opened in May, 1873 , with the adjoining 

Station constitutes the 

GRANDEST RAILWAY TERMINUS 

IN THE WOHEH. 

Every modem appliance and improvement has been introduced in a 
most liberal spirit ; Erard’s Pianos are at the free disposal of the occupants 
in all first-class private sitting-rooms. The Public Rooms are the finest 
and best of any Hotel in the Kingdom. Bedrooms for 500 guests, most 
luxuriously furnished with couches and easy-chairs, varying in charges from 
2/6 to 14 /- per day. A free area of several hundred yards’ width surrounds 
the building on every side, which contributes greatly to the privacy and 
comfort of visitors, and makes the Midland Grand Hotel an exceptionally 
healthy and most desirable residence for visitors intending to spend some 
time in London. 





23 


®0nttmntal 

—♦— 

ADELSBERG. 

Station between Trieste and Vienna -2 hours distant from Trieste. 

THE LARGEST CAVES (GROTTOES) OP THE WORLD. 

GRAND HOTEL—ADELSBBRGERHOF. 

Proprietor, F. PROGLER. 

First class establishment, with every' modern comfort. Conducted after the 
Swiss system. Surrounded by an extensive Park, in a beautiful and quiet situation,, 
commanding a fine view on the Alps. Spacious Sitting, Reading, Billiard, and Smok¬ 
ing-rooms. Table d’hote. Service! a la Carte. Baths. Weekly and monthly 
arrangements can be made at very moderate terms. Omnibus at the station. Every 
facility is provided for visiting the leading places of interest in the environs— 
Castle of Luek, Lake of Zirknitz, Quicksilver mines of Idria, etc., etc. During the 
winter the Hotel is shut.—Trieste, Hotel de la Ville, under the same direction. 

Mensrs. Cook and Son’s Coupons are accepted here. 


AIX LES BAINS. 

HOTEL DE LA PAIX. 

Kept by JEAN EIVOILIEK, 

Rue des Soupirs, near the English Church and the Railway Station. View of the 
Lake and the Mountains, shady Gardens and Halls. This Hotel, newly furnished, 
presents to Bathers and Tourists every desirable comfort at moderate rates. 

Cook’s Coupons accepted. 


ALBRUCK. 

HOTEL ALBTHAL. 

Proprietor, FRIDOLIN JEBLE. 

Messrs, Cook’s Coupons accepted here. 


ANTWERP. 

HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 

Proprietor, JAMES BARBER. 


This first-class Hotel is situated in the Placr Vertb, next the Post-office and 
opposite the Cathedral. Hot and cold baths. English, American, and Foreign 
Newspapers. Cook’s Coupons accepted. 


ANTWERP. 

HOTEL DE LA PAIX. 

Proprietor, ARMAND COL. 

Rue des Meunisiers, in the centre of the town, has been entirely rebuilt and 
newly furnished. No expense has been spared to render it one of the^ most 
comfortable on the Continent. Excellent Tables d’hote at 12.30, 2, and 5 o clock. 
Moderate charges. Cook's Coupons accepted. 









24 


CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 


BADEN-BADEN. 

HOTEL HE HOLLANDE, 

AND DEPENDANCE 

AU BEAU SEJOUR. 

A. ROSSLER, Proprietor. 

Tliis favoiu'ite and first-class Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, Promenade, and 
Theatre, commands one of the most charming views in Baden. The Hotel and 
Dependance consists of 160 sleeping apartments, elegant sitting rooms, and garden. 
Extensive and airy dining room, and a comfortable public sitting room, with piano 
and library. It is conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor. 
English and American newsi)apers. The Table d’hote of this Hotel is rei^uted of the 
best quality in Baden. Eixed moderate charges for everything. Rooms from 2s. 
and upwards. Cook’s Hotel Coicpons accepted. 


BALE. 

HOTEL TROIS ROIS (Three Kings). 

Proprietor, Mr. C. PLUCK. 

An old-established and favourite first-class Family Hotel, facing the Rhine, with 
long balcony. 

Messrs. Cook and Son’s Hotel Coupons are accepted ; their Circular Tickets and Coupons 

supplied. 

BELLINZONA. 

HOTEL HE LA VILLE. 

Conducted by Mr. ANDREOLI. 

A very comfortable Hotel, of the first-class, which has recently been considerably 
improved and refurnished. It is very conveniently situated in the most central part 
of the town, and contains every reqirisite accommodation for visitors. There is a 
good Table d’hote, the cuisine being excellent; warm and cold baths, newspapers, 
&c.; the prices being moderate, and every attention shown to visitors. Horses and 
carriages can be obtained, at fixed charges, for the St. Gothard or St. Bernardino, 
and the Proprietor will be found ready to give all necessary information to Tourists. 

The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son are accepted here. 


BERLIN. 

MARKGRAF’S HOTEL HE L’EUROPE. 

TAUBENSTRASSE, 16. 

Proprietor, H. MARKGRAF. 

Hotel for families and single gentlemen, situated in the finest part of the town, 
at the place Gend’arme Market, near the Palaces and Museums. A bath house 
has been attached to the Hotel. Charges moderate. English and French spoken. 
English newspapers, &c. Cook’s Hotel Coupons accepted. 


BERLIN. 

TOEPFER’S HOTEL. 

OTTO TOEPFER, Proprietor. 

This Hotel, which was newly established in the spring of 1872, is situated next 
to the Railway Stations to Hanover, Hamburg, and Stettin. The traveller will find 
every comfort, combined with the most civil attendance and moderate charges. 














CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 


25 


BERLIN 

BAETICKOW’S HOTEL DES PRINCES, 

Leipziger Platz I., opposite the Potsdam Railway Station. 

J. H. BARTICKOW, Proprietor. 

This newly established Hotel, situated in the finest part of Berlin, near five 
Railway Stations and the Tramway, is, for its fine rooms and moderate prices, well 
recommended to families and single gentlemen. 


BEX. 

GEAND HOTEL DES BAINS. 

Proprietor, Mr. C. HIEB (late Head-waiter of the Hotel Beau Rivage, Geneva). 

This favourite Hotel, thoroughly renovated and newly refurnished, surrounded 
by a fifie garden, well la,id out grounds and shaded walks, will now be open all the 
year. Rooms overlooking the mountains. Large dining and drawing rooms. 
Reading, smoking, and billiard rooms. Baths on the establishment. Pension from 
5 francs and upwards. Carriages. Omnibus at the station. 

Cook's Coupons accepted. 


BOLOGNA. 

GRAND HOTEL BRUN. 

W. WELLER and Co., Proprietors. 

First-rate accommodation for families and single gentlemen; magnificent dining 
room ; conversation room, with pianoforte j reading room, supplied with the Times 
and other principal papers; smoking room. Moderate charges. Personal Sui)erin- 
tendence of the Proprietor. 

The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son accepted here. 


BONN. 

GRAND HOTEL ROYAL. 

A. ERMEKEIL, Proprietor. 

This excellent Hotel, one of the best on the Continent, patronised by H.M. the 
King Leopold of Belgium, and by the Royal Family of England, is admirably situated 
on the banks of the Rhine, and commands the most beautiful view of the Seven 
Mountains, facing the landing place of the Rhine Steamers, and near the Railway 
Station. This Hotel contains every comfort, with moderate charges. Ladies’ saloon, 
reading, and smoking rooms, as well as warm and cold baths in the Hotel. Large 
English garden. Advantageous arrangement for winter. 

Cook’s Hotel Coupons accepted. 


BREMEN. 

HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 

C. A. SCHULZE, Proprietor. 

One of the best Hotels in the north of Germany, is situated on the Boulevards, 
close to the station, post-office, and Exchange. The rooms are carpeted and fur¬ 
nished in the best English style. English and French journals are taken in. 
Advantageous arrangements can be made with families remaining any length of 
time. Warm and cold baths. Omnibus to and from all trains. 

The Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son are accepted here. 













26 


CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 


BRUSSELS. 

HOTEL DU GRAND MTROIR. 

Proprietor, Mr. DETIENNE REGNARD. 

A well conducted and old established Hotel, situated Rue De la Montagne, 28, 
has ati excellent reputation for its general comfort, cleanliness, superior accommo¬ 
dation, and very moderate charges. The landlord speaks English, French, Dutch, 
and German. 

The Hotel Cpupons of Messrs. Cook and Son are accepted here. 


BRUSSELS. 

HOTEL DE LA POSTE. 

Proprietor, N. TILMANS. 

This excellent Establishment, situated Rue Fosse aux Loups, 48, will be found 
very convenient to visitors who prize cleanliness and comfort. It is very substan¬ 
tially furnished, has an excellent cuisine, and displays every attention to visitors, 
the charges being moderate. It is well situated for tourists desirous of rendering 
themselves familiar with the imincipal objects of interest in the Belgian capital, 
and the landlord will be found willing to afford every information in his power. 
Proprietors speaks English, French, German, Dutch, and Italian. 

The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here. 


CASTELLAMARE (Gulf of Naples). 

GRAND HOTEL ROYAL. 

Proprietor, A. RUGGIERI. 

The only first-class Establishment in the town ; central and salubrious position, 
close to the Railway Station and the mineral si^rings. Sea-bathing opposite the 
Hotel. English garden. Separate suites of apartments and rooms. Arrangements 
by the week. Excursions to Pompeii, Sorrento la Cava, etc., etc. 

Cook’s Coupons accepted. 


CHAMOUNY. 

GRAND HOTELS DE LONDRES ET 
D’ANGLETERRE. 

Proprietor, CREPAUX-TAIRRAZ. 

Houses of the first class; recommended to Families for their comfort and 
irreproachable cuisine. These Establishments are newly furnished. Situated near 
to the English Church, the Post Office, and the Telegraph. Splendid view of Mont 
Blanc. English gardens. Various languages spoken. 

Cook’s Coupons accepted. 


COBLENCE. 

HOTEL DU GEANT. 

Proprietors, Messrs. EISENMANN BROTHERS. 

This well-known and favourite first-class Hotel is delightfully situated opposite 
the Castle of Ehrenbreitstein. It is the nearest to the landing-place of the Steamers, 
and co mm ands a most beautiful view of the Rhine and surrounding country. This 
highly recommended Establishment combines superior accommodation with mode¬ 
rate prices, every attention being displayed towards Visitors, and facilities afforded 
for their visiting the various objects of interest in the neighbourhood. 

The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here. 









CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 


27 


CORFU. 

GEAND HOTEL ST. GEORGE. 

This first-class Hotel is very well situated, on the^iorth corner of the Esplanade, 
and close to the Royal Palace. It is fitted up after the English style, and is one of 
the most comfortable Hotels, affording first-rate accommodation for Famihes and 
Single Gentlemen. 

Splendid furnished Apartments, with Pianoforte. Hot bath-room. Table d’hote; 
Private Dinners. English and Foreign Newspapers. Eeading-mom, smoking-room, 
and hilliard-room. Magnificent carriages and horses. Everything neat, elegant, 
and at moderate charges. English, German, and French spoken. 

Under the patronage of King George the First, the Emperor of Austria, and the 
Grand Duke of Mecklenburgh. 

Pension at the Branch House newly added to the Hotel. 

Cook’s Co7tponr aocepf.cd. 


DIEPPE. 

HOTEL QUEEN VICTOEIA. 

Cook’s Hotel Coupons accepted. 


DIJON. 

HOTEL DU JURA. 

DAVID and MERCIER, Proprietors. 

This first-class Hotel, near the station, is highly recommended. Table d’hote. 
English spoken, 

• The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted. 


DRESDEN. 

GRAND UNION HOTEL. 

FERD. BEEAIH-SCHIADITZ, Proprietor. 

This handsome first-rate Hotel, which has been recently built and decorated in 
the newest style, was opened on the 1st April, 1873. It is situated on the Bismarck- 
platz, in the English quarter, close to the Central Railway Station of the Leipsic, 
Dresden, Berlin, Munich, and Vienna line. Large diniag and breakfast saloons, 
billiard, drawing, and reading rooms. A large garden. Two superior Tables d’hote 
daily. Pension at moderate prices. Cook’s Hotel Coupons accepted. 


EINSIEDELN. 

HOTEL PEACOCK. 

Proprietor, CH. GYR-TANNER (speaks English). 

An old-established and well-known Hotel and Boarding house, opposite the cele¬ 
brated Benedictine Abbey, and beautiful church. The greatest attention is paid to 
the cooking, the service, and cleanliness. Post and telegraph in the house; a rail¬ 
road will be opened this year. 

The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son are taken. 










28 


CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 


EMS. 

HOTEL DARMSTADT. 

Proprietor, TH. BIEGER. 

Splendid first-class Hotel; beautiful situation ; close to the mineral springs and 
public gardens. Airy rooms. English comfort. French cooking. Moderate 
charges. Pension, from 7 to 10 shillings a day. 

Cooli's Coupons accepted. 


ENGADIN, TARASH, SCHULS, SWITZERLAND. 

HOTEL ET PENSION DE LA POSTE. 

Proprietors, VITAL and ALEXANDER. 

Beautiful first-class Establishment, offering all the comforts and requirements 
of the present time ; commands a splendid view of the mountains. Open aU the 
j-ear. Only ten minutes from the Kurhaus Tarash. English Church Service at 
Kurhaus Tarash. Large garden. 

The holders of Coolc and Son’s Hotel Coupons will always have a cordial welcome. 


FLORENCE. 

GEAND HOTEL H’EUROPE. 

SANTA TRINITA SQUARE. 

This convenient Hotel, under the direct management of the Landlord, Mr. P. del 
Bello, is situated in the central and finest part of the town, near Sta. Trinita 
Bridge, Post Office, the Uffizzi and the Pitti Galleries'. Families or Gentlemen will 
find very comfortable accommodation, with the most moderate charges. Good 
Table d’hote. Salons for Ladies and Gentlemen. Arrangements made with 
Families if desired. Foreign languages are spokeu. 

The holders of Cook and Son’s Hotel Coupons will always have a cordial welcome, 

FRANKFORT. 

GRAND HOTEL DU NORD. 

Proprietor, Mr. MAX GROSSE. 

A well-conducted, commodious, and comfortable Establishment, where Visitors 
will receive every attention; the nearest to the Railway Station. The charges are 
reasonable, the attendance good, and every desire shown to assist Visitors desirous 
of making excursions in the environs, or of inspecting the various sights of the 
ancient city, including the Cathedral, where the German Emperors wei*e crowned, 
the Romer, the ViUa of the Rothschild family, the Palmengarden, the Zoological 
Garden, and the Ariadnoum. English, French, and Italian spoken. English, French, 
and German papers. Much frequented by American and English Travellers. Over 
One Hundred Bedrooms. 

The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Conk and Son are accepted here. 


GENEVA. 

HOTEL DE LA COURONNE. 

Proprietor, F. RATHGEB. 

Facing the Lake, and in front of the National Monument. First-class Hotel. 

Cook's Coupons accepted. 











CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 


29 


GENEVA. 

HOTEL HE LA METROPOLE. 


Kept by Mr. FREDERICK BAUR. 


First-class Hotel, facing tlie Lake and tlie English, garden. 

Mr. Batjr will have the greatest pleasure to assist and help in every wav all 
Cook’s Tourists. 


Cook's Coupons 'accepted. 


GENOA. 

HOTEL HE LA VILLE. 

By H. ENOEl. 

This first-class Hotel, beautifully situated in the centre of the town, overlooking 
the sea and the environs, highly recommends itself to English and American 
travellers. Omnibus meeting all trains. 


GHENT. 

HOTEL HE VIENNE. 

Kept by Mr. ROSZMANN, also Proprietor of the Hotel de Flandre, Bruges. 

This Hotel is admirably situated in the centre of the town, near the celebrated 
'athedral of St. Havon, and the principal public buildings. The cuisine and wines 
ireof first-rate qvxality, and the Hotel de Vienne affords excellent accommodation 
r Families or Gentlemen at moderate prices. Table d’Hote at One and Five 
lock. Omnibus to and from the Trains. 

Cook's Coupons accepted. 


GRENOBLE. 

HOTEL MONNET. 

Proprietor, L. TRILLERT. 

Messrs. CooJfc’s Coupons are accepted here. 


HEIDELBERG. 

HOTEL DE L’EHROPE. 

Proprietor, Mr. HAEFELI GUJER. 

This splendid and admirably conducted Establishment, in the finest situation of 
the town, near the Railroad and Post Office, commands, by its charming position, 
the best view of the Promenade, the Castle, and the Mountains; and offers, by its 
superior arrangements, the comfort of the apartments, and careful and civil attend¬ 
ance all desirable attractions to Travellers. Ladies’ sitting room and weU-fumished 
reading room. Hot and cold baths, &c. The charges are moderate, and persons 
desirous of visiting the environs will receive every attention. Omnibus meets every 
train The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and tSon are accepted here. 














30 


CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 


HOECHENSCHWAND. 

HOTEL HOECHENSCHWAND. 

Proprietor, A. MAIER. 

One of the most healthful resorts in the Black Forest. Situated 1012 metres 
above the level of the sea. Elegantly and comfortably furnished. Pension at 
fixed rates. Noted for the magnificent Alpine Panorama, extending from the 
Bavarian Range to Mont Blanc. English, French, and German spoken. 

Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted. 


INTERLACKEN. 

GRAND HOTEL RITSCHARD. 

Conducted by M. ED. RITSCHARD. 

This splendid first-class Establishment, situated in the centre of the Kurort, 
contains 350 vFell-furmshed rooms, and a beautiful dining-room for 250 persons, 
ladies’ saloon, conversation, reading, and billiard rooms, 40 balconies, with splendid 
view of the Jungfrau and Alps. A newly-erected comfortable bathing establishment, 
with douches; large shady garden. The greatest attention is paid to the cooking 
and service. 

The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here. 


LA TOUR. 

HOTEL DE L’OURS. 

(A TOREE PELLICE). 

Pfoprietor, LUIGI DURAND. 

Messrs. Cook’s Coupons accepted here. 


LAUSANNE. 

HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 

Proprietor, CHAS. PERRIN, Jun. 

Cook’s Coupons accepted. 


LEGHORN. 

HOTEL DU NORD. 

Conducted by GADDINI and PAPADATO. 


This is now the only first-class Hotel in the city, situated in the 
and fashionable part, close to the sea, and facing the harbour. 


most central 


Messrs. Cook’s Coupons accepted here. 









CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 


31 


LEIPZIG. 

HOTEL DE BAVIERE. 


Hotel I. Ranges, 
FRITZ PFNAUSCH. 


LUCERNE. 

HOTEL DU CYGNE (Swan). 

Conducted by Mr. H. HAEFELI. 

The Swan Hotel is delightfully situated, immediately facing the Steamboat Station, 
and commanding the best views of the Rigi, and other mountain scenery. Mr. H. 
Haefeli gratefully acknowledges the extensive support he has received from English 
visitors and tourists, and begs to intimate that, encoixi-nged by past success, he has 
now added another large establishment, which will enable him to provide accommo¬ 
dation for greatly increased numbers. Tourists travelling under the arrangements 
of Messrs. Cook & Son will have the best attention, at the same rates as are charged 
by the other selected Swiss Hotels. English spoken by the Proprietor. Various 
circular tickets and the Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook & Son can be had here. 


MARTIGNY. 

HOTEL CL EEC. 

Conducted by M. CLERC. 

A new and commodious Hotel, pleasantly situated, facing the Rhone Valley, of 
which it commands a magnificent view. Visitors here receive the most liberal 
attention, every care being taken to ensure their comfort. The accommodation is 
good and the prices reasonable. The Hotel forms a capital starting point for 
excursions to the Chateau la Batia, the Forclaz, the Gietroz Glacier, the Hospice of 
the Great St. Bernard, and, where necessary, guides and mules can be obtained, at 
moderate charges. The Tickets of Messrs. Cook and Son for guides and mules are 
accepted here, also Messrs. Cook and'Son’s Hotel Coupons. 

MAYENGE. 

HOTEL DE HOLLAISTDE. 

Proprietor, Mr. FERDINAND BUDINGEN. 

This well-known and favourite Hotel is situated opposite the landing place of the 
Rhine steamers, and near the Railway Station, and is one of the best on the Rhine 
for the accommodation of English Families and Tourists. Mr. Budingen, the Pro¬ 
prietor, has newly furnished the Hotel throughout, and hopes, by unremitting atten¬ 
tion and moderate prices, to merit the patronage of English Travellers. The Hotel 
commands a tine view of the Rhine, and will be found very convenient for Visitors. 

The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here. 


MEIRINGEN. 

HOTEL DU SAUVAGE. 

Proprietor, M. E. BAUD. 

An old established Hotel and Boarding House, situated opposite the Alpbach and 
the Reichenbach, of which there is a fine prospect from the Hotel. Splendid view 
of the Glacier de Rosenlain, Engelshorner, Wellborn, &c. The Alpbach Falls are 
illuminated every evening throughout the season. The Hotel has been newly 
arranged, and can boast of excellent service and moderate terms. An English 
Church is situated in the large and beautiful garden of the Hotel. Enghsh, French, 
and German newspapers. Billiard-room; warm and cold baths. The Hotel forms 
a good head-quarters for Tourists desirous of making short excursions in the neigh¬ 
bourhood. Telegraph and Post-office facing the Hotel. 

The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here. 














CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 


on 

oZ 


MENDRISIO. 

HOTEL MENDRISIO AND PENSION. 

Proprietor, B. PASTA. 

This first-class Hotel is situated in the centre of a large garden at the foot of 
Mount Generoso, 1200 feet above the sea. The fine situation between Lakes Como, 
Lugauo, and Varese, the beauty of the country, and the dry and temperate climate, 
make a sojourn between the lakes and the mountain very agreeable. 

The Milk-and-Grape Cure. Moderate prices. Arrangements for the winter. 
Conveyances to Mount Generoso. Omnibus to the station. 


MENTONE. 

HOTEL DB TUEIN. 


Proprietor, Mons. P. LUGANI. 

This Hotel is situated in the centre of the city, far from the noise of the sea, 
with a southern aspect, and surrounded by magnificent gardens; it is one of the 
prettiest Hotels in Mentone. It has been entirely renovated by the new proprietor. 


MENTONE. 

HOTEL GKANDE BRETAGNE. 

Conducted by M. DAZIANO. 

This well-situnted and comfortable first-class Hotel is recommended to English 
families for its accommodation, cleanliness, and English comfort. 

Reading room, supplied with English and Foreign newspapers, books, piano, and 
music; billiard room, with an English table; smoking room. Facing the sea. 
Cold and hot baths. 

The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son qccepted here. 


MILAN. 

HOTEL ROYAL BRUSOHETTI. 

Proprietors, L. ORELLI and Co. 

This Hotel, only two stories high, has been honoured for upwards of a century by 
the patronage of the most distinguished families of all nations. Situated near the 
Oathedral, fifty yards from the General Post Office, and about the same distance 
from the English Church. A large Collection of Paintings and Works of Art by 
ancient masters are to be seen in the private gallery of the Hotel. British Consular 
Office in the Hotel. 

The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son are accepted here. 


MONTREUX (Vernex). 

LANGBEIN^S HOTEL BEAU-SEJOUR AU LAC. 

Conducted by GEORGE LANGBEIN (speaks English). 

Visitors to Montreux will find every accommodation at this Establishment, the 
attendance being good and the charges reasonable. Montreux is one of the most 
lovely spots in Europe (figs and pomegranates flourishing in the open air), and in 
winter is much resorted to by invahds, in consequence of its warm climate. The 
Hotel is twenty minutes from the famous Castle of Chillon, and commands a fine 
view of the scenery surrounding the Lake of Geneva. An English Church is near 
the Hotel, which is also close to the steamboats. The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Thos. 
Cook and Son occ-^ptcd here. Hot, cold, and sea baths. Good fishing. 











__ CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 33 

NAMUR (Belgium.) 

HOTEL DE HOLLANDE. 

RUE DES FOSSES. 

completely furnislied, and affords every possible comfort. 
Situated opposite tbe Theatre. Omnibuses to all trains. 

Cook's Hotel Coupons acceptsd here. 


NAPLES. 

HOTEL METEOPOLE. 

Proprietors, P. FERRARIO and RABBIA. 

Cook's Coupons accepted. 


NICE. 

GRAND HOTEL. 

Conducted by A. SCHMITZ. 

500 Rooms and Saloons. Southern aspect 
OPEN ALL THE YEAR. 

The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son are accepted here. 

NEUHAUSEN, SCHAFFHAUSEN, FALLS of the RHINE. 

HOTEL SCHWEIZERIIOE. 

Proprietor, F. WEGENSTEIN. 

The Schweizerhof (1877 greatly enlarged) is now a splendid first-rate Establish¬ 
ment, opposite the celebrated PALLS OF THE RHINE, surrounded by a fine park 
and garden, and has long* been known to English and American visitors as one of 
the best houses in Switzerland. The situation is imsurimssed, the eye ranging a 
distance of above 180 miles—a Panoramic View including the whole of the Swiss 
Alps and the “ Mont Blanc.” Healthy climate. English Church Service. 
Preserved trout fishing. Prices moderate. Pension. Hotel omnibuses at 
NEUHAUSEN and SCHAFFHAUSEN. 

Conk’s Coupons accepted. 


NEUWIED ON THE RHINE, 

MORAVIAN HOTEL. 

. H. A. KUSTER, Manager. 

This very comfortable and newly-built Hotel, much frequented by Families and 
Gentlemen on account of the central position of Neuwied on the Rhine, and the 
beautiful excursions to be made in the neighbourhood,is situated inclose proximity 
to the largest Educational Establishments for young English Ladies and Gentlemen, 
for which the town is so justly celebrated. 

Moderate charges. Euglish spoken. 

Cook’s Coupons accepted. 


3 























34 


CONTINENTAL HOTELS, 


OBERKIRCH. 

HOTEL LINDE. 

Proprietor, Mr. GELDREICH. 

Pension all the year. Conveyances to the station, for the Cascades of Allerhei- 
ligeu, and the Baths of Eendi. Post and Telegraph Office at the Hotel. Table 
d’hote at half-past Twelve. Eestaurant at all hours. 

PADUA. 

DANTE ORLANDI, Proprietor. 

GRAND HOTEL FANTI (Best in tlie Town), 

PLACE GAEIBALBI, 

NEAE PEDVOCCHPS CAEE AND THE CHAPEL OF GIOTTO. 

Apartments on the 1st! and 2nd stories. Table d’hote at 6 o’clock, 5 francs. 
Dinners and breakfasts in the apartments at fixed rates, and a la carte at any 
moment. Foreign newspapers. Good attendance. Principal foreign languages 
spoken. Omnibus meets all trains. This well recommended Establishment offers 
every comfort to travellers. Cook’s Coupons accepted. 


PARIS. 

LONDON AND NEW YORK HOTEL. 

PLACE DU HAVEE. 

Proprietor, Mr. CHARDON. 

Well-known to English Visitors for being very centrally situated and homely 
comfortable. Arrangements made with families. Pension by the week in winter. 

Cook’s Hotel Coupons accepted. 


PARIS. 

Visitors to Paris will meet with comfort and moderate charges at the 

HOTEL DE LONDRES ET DE MILAN. 

BERETTA, Proprietor. 

8, Ette St. Hyacinthe—Saint Honoee, near the Tuileeies. Airangementg. 
made with families. 

Cook's Hotel Coupons are received in this Hotel. 

RIGI-KULM. 

HOTEL SCHREIBER. 

New large Establishment, with 300 beds, 150 sitting-rooms, 45 l>alconies. 
Pension rates. - 

RIGI STAFFEL. 

HOTEL AND PENSION, WITH 250 BEDS. 

Seven minutes from the Kulm, 16 from Klosterli, 10 from Ealtbad, 35 from 
Scheideck, and 10 from Eothstock. Close to the Eailway Station. 

SCHREIBER BROTHERS, Proprietors. 

Cook’s Coupons accepted.^ 
















CONTINENTAL HOTELS 

ROME. 


35 


HOTEL D’A L L E M A G N E. 

Proprietors, Messrs. LUGANI and PRESENZINI. 

This is a first-class House, with a southern aspect, situated in the centre of the 
city, and in one of the healthiest quarters. It contains 120 chambers and 14 saloons. 
Omnibus to all the trains, 

Messrs. Cook’s Coupons accepted here. 


SCHWALBACH. 

HOTEL METROPOLE. 

Proprietor, G, HERBSTER, 

Cook’s Coupons accepted here. 


SIENNA. 

GRAND HOTEL DE SIENNA. 

Formerly the Palazzo Zonzadari. 

This Hotel, newly fitted up with all modem improvements, affords every comfort, 
combined A\ith moderate prices. Its situation on the Park commands the most 
beautiful view. Omnibuses at all the Trains, The Proprietor, F. Betti, has resided 
many years in England. 

Cook’s Coupons accepted. 


SPA. 

GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 

Proprietor, HENEAED EICHAED. 

First-class Hotel. Large and elegant rooms. Splendid situation, in the centre of 
a 11 the establishments. Grand saloon for lectures, and smoke-room. Arrangements 
for Families. Various languages spoken. Omnibus from the Hotel to all Trains. 

Cook’s Coupons accepted. 


SYRACUSE. 

HOTEL VICTORIA. 

E. MUSElilECI & SON, Proprietors. 

A very comfortable Establishment, frequented by all strangers who visit the 
Greek and Homan rains. It is pleasantly situated in the gardens of the Hotel, and 
has the benefit of a southern aspect. 

Grande deposito dei tanto rinomato Vini di Siracusa. 

Cook’s Coupons accepted. 


















36 CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 


THOUNE (Thun). 

HOTEL BELLE VUE. 

Conducted by M. SCHMIDLIN. 

This Hotel is charmingly situated outside the town, in the centre of a large and 
beautiful park, delightfully adorned with gardens, and will he found very comfort¬ 
able by those using it; the charges being i-easonable, and the attendance good. 
There is an English Church in the park. The Hotel faces the Steamboat Pier, 
which is situate at the end of the lawn; the boats inlying to and from Interlaken. 
Every facility is afforded Tourists desirous of visiting the neighbourhood, which is 
very pretty, and full of attractions. 

The Hotel Coupons of Mennre. Cook and Son received here. 

THUN. 

GRAND HOTEL DB THUN. 

F. WIENMAN, Director. 

Vast and magnificent first-class Hotel, newly constructed, situated in a large 
Garden. Superb view and matchless panorama of the Lake, and the entire chain of 
glaciers. Every modem comfort, including a lift. Cures and bains de petit lait, hot 
and cold Baths. English Newspapers. Travellers coming from Berne reishing to spend 
a few hours in Thun before proceeding by the steamer, can embark from the Hotel and take 
their baggage with them, thus avoiding the necessity of returning to the station in order to 
go on board the boat at Scherzligcn. Omnibus meets all trains. 

Cook’s Hotel Coicpons accepted. 

TRIBERG (F31ack. Forest). 

LION HOTEL. 

Proprietor, J. B. FORTWAENGLEE. 

The oldest and best-recommended house in the centre of the town. Direct view’ 
of the Waterfalls from all the balconies. Noble dining-room, breakfast and reading- 
rooms. Omnibuses meet every Train. Elegant carriages for excursions. Post 
and Telegraph in the house. Charges moderate. English spoken. 

Cook's Coupons accepted. 


TRIESTE. 

HOTEL DE LA VILLE. 

Proprietor, F PROGLER. 

This first-class w’ell-known Hotel, the only one on the Quai, is well recommended 
for its eomfort. Baths in the Hotel. Good cooking and attendance. Moderate 
charges. Weekly or monthly arrangements can also be made. Omnibus at the 
Station. Carriages for visiting Miramar. Grand Hotel, Adelsberg, under, the same 
management. 

Cook's Coupons accepted. 


TURIN. 

HOTEL TROMBETTA. 

In the Finest Quarter op the Town, at the corner of the Roma and Cavour 
Streets, in the neighbourhood'of the Porta Nuova Station. 

Proprietor, LEOPOLD BAGLIONI. 

The Hotel has been entirely and newly fitted up with great luxury, and according 
to the latest improvements. It now, more than ever, offers the most desirable resi¬ 
dence to English Travellers visiting this fine climate. Suites of apartments for 
families, and elegant weU-furnished rooms for single gentlemen. Conversation, read¬ 
ing, and smoking rooms. Excellent accommodation, combined with reasonable terms. 
Foreign newspapers. Baths. Omnibuses at the station. Arrangements made for a 
protracted stay. Cook’s Hotel Coupons accepted here. 













CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 37 

TURIN. 

GEAND HOTEL D’ANGLETEERE. 

31, EUE ROME; AND 2, RUE CAVOUR. 

Opened January 1, 1875. 

Proprietor, LEOPOLD BAGLIONI. 

First-class Hotel, close to the Railway Station; exceptional position; splendid 
view. Recommended for comfort and moderate charges. Reading-room, library, 
foreign newspapers, Table d’hote, baths, and smoking-room. The waiters speak 
the principal European languages. Omnibus meets all trains. 

Cook’s Coupons accepted, 

VARESE (Italy). 

In direct communication by rail with Milan and Lake Maggiore, Como, &c. 

D. MARINI, Manager. 

Hotel Varese, opened 1st Jiily, 1874. Beautiful first-class Establishment, 
offering all the comforts and requirements of the present time. It contains 200 
rooms and saloons. Baths on each floor. Its situation commands the most exten¬ 
sive view of the Alps, Monte Rosa Chain, Lakes Maggiore and Varese. An exten¬ 
sive park and grounds, with grottoes, etc., surround the Hotel. Pension the whole 
year round. Omnibus to and from the station. The house is heated in the winter 
season. Regular English Church in the Hotel. Regular diligence service, 
connecting Lakes Lugano, Varese, and Maggiore. 

Cook’s Coupons accepted. 


VENICE, 

GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. 

Kept Py EMIL THOMA. 

The largest and finest in Venice, conveniently situated near the piazza St. Marc 
and chief Theatres. 180 rooms. Saloons. Reading-room with Piano, Billiard and 
Smoking-rooms; Baths. Every comfort. Cleanliness. Charges more moderate 
than those of other first-class Hotels. Pension. English spoken by attendants. 

Cook’s Hotel Coupons accepted. 


VICHY. 

GRAND HOTEL DES BAINS. 

E. JURY, Proprietor. 

An Establishment of the first class, situated opposite the principal bath (Grande 
Grille). Good cuisine. Ladies’and Gentlemen’s Baths. Neiir the Park and the 
Casino. English spoken. Cook’s Coupons accepted. 

Hotel at Nice—Hotel de Paris, Boulevard Carabascel. 


WALDSHUT. 

HOTEL K U H N E R. 


Messrs. Cook’s Coupons accepted here. 



















38 


CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 


WIESBADEN. 

GRAND HOTEL DU RHIN, 

Conducted by M. E. MOZEN. 

Aji excellent, commodious, and well-conducted Establishment, in close proximity 
to the Kursaal and principal places of this beautiful town. The rooms are comfort¬ 
able and well-furnished. Every accommodation for families, the cuisine beiu^ 
good, and the charges moderate. Baths provided. Table d’hote. Capital 
attendance. English Papers. Situation pleasant. Tourists desirous of making 
the establishment their head quarters while remaining in the district, will receive 
every attention. Conveyances and Gxxides provided when required.. 

The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here. 


ZURICH. 

HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. 

Proprietors, M. M. ERMELL and POHL. 

This splendid and admirably conducted Establishment, situated on the shore of 
the Lake, commands, by its chai'ming position, the best view of the Lake and the 
Alps, and offers, by its superior arrangements, the comfort of the Apartments, and 
a careful and civil attendance, all desirable attractions to Travellers. Ladies’ 
sitting-room, and well furnished reading-rooms. One hundred and twenty-five 
apartments. Pension arrangements made for Families. N.B.—The Belle Vue 
Hotel is situated close to the Lake. To avoid any mistake be sure to ask for the 
“Belle Vue au Lac.” AdvantagesStone Staircase to the top of the Hotel; 
Belvedere on the fourth floor; nearly all the rooms of the Hotel offering a view of 
the Lake and Alps. 3Iessrs. Cook and Son’s Hotel Coupons accepted. 


HOTJESX- X3M -W^X-ES. 

LLANDUDNO (North Wales). 

LOCKYER’S BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT 
AND WINTER RESIDENCE, 

2, CLONMEL STEEET. 

Magnificent sea and mountain views. Every home comfort with moderate 
terms. Special winter terms. 


All Communications relating to Advertisements in 
COOK’S TOTJEIST HANDBOOKS to be addressed to 
THOS, COOK AND SON (Advertisement Department), 
Tourist Offices, Ludgate Circus, London, E.C. 



















ADVERTISEMENTS. 


39 


SAMUEL BROTHERS, 


SYDENHAM HOUSE, 65 and 67, LUDGATE HILL, 

LONDON, E.C. 


It is tlueto the successful SYSTEM of business originated by 

sa-iml-ctjeulm s : Ei . c 3 i - 3 E 3 : aEms , 

some forty-one years since, and designated the “ SYDENHAM” (now a Trade 
Mark of world-wide repute), to state that so thoroughly perfect has it been 
found in its working that all classes of customers, both at home and ABROAD, 
are unanimous in the opinion that such a system is, in the highest degree, i>ro- 
ductive of entire satisfaction both to seller and buyer, thus establishing a mutual 
benefit not to be obtained under any other system. 


“ WEAE EESISTING ” EABKIOS (Regd.) TOE GENTLEMEN’S, 
BOYS’, AND YOUTfiS’ CLOTHING. 


SUITS, 16s, to 45s. 


ULSTERS, 30s. to 100s. 



TOURISTS and TRAVELLERS will combine comfort with elegance by 
adopting for general wear these popular and wddely appreciated “WEAR 
RESISTING” FABRICS (Regd.) 


GENTLEMEN’S BUSINESS, MORNING, OR TRAVELLING SUITS. 


Gentlemen’sBusiness or Travelling Suits 
“C” Class, I “D” Class. 


50s. 


I 


59s. 


Suits for a Boy 3ft. Sin. in height. 
“C” Class. I “D” Class. 


27s. 


31s. 


Prices varying in i)rox)ortiou to size. 


Keady made or to measure. 

'I’bP snecial attention of the TRAVELLING PUBLIC is invited to inspect 
th?unique and extensive stock of ULSTERS and OVERCOATS. 

THE NEW ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF FASHIONS.—This book contains a full 
and detailed account of all the Departments of the Establishment; also forty-eight 
en'--ravings illustrating the most fashionable Costumes for Gentlemen, Youths, and 
Boys; Riding Habits, Jackets, and Ulsters for Ladies, and Liveries for Servants. 

Oiiidc to Self-Measurement ami Paf terns Post Free. 




































40 


ABVERTISmiENTS. 


DOLLOND, 

1, LUDGATE HILL, 
ST. PAUL’S. 


ESTABLISHED 1760. 



OPEHA AHB FIE3GD GlaASSFS 

OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY. 


(Compensated), with Altitude Scale, £3 lOs. 


EOCK.ET 

With Patent Dial for Night Use, from 4 s. 6 d. 

SPECTACLES AND EYE CLASSES. 


Telescopes & Microscopes, Thermometers & Barometers. 



THE NEW 

BINOCULAR TELESCOPE. 

This Instrument will be found 
a most excellent Companion for 
Tourists and others. Its power is 
FIVE TIMES that of the Ordinary 

f 

Field Glass. It has two adjust¬ 
ments : One for centring the eyes; 

» 

the other for focussing. 

PRICE from 



























WHY DOES HAIR FALL OFF? 

From many causes. Sometimes from local 
disturbing agencies, such as sickness ; some¬ 
times from neglect in cleansing; but more 
frequently from decay in the saps and tissues 
which supply each individual liair. In such 
case, 

OLDRIDGE’S 

BALM OF COLUMBIA 

Is an excellent corrective of the many insidious sources of decay which 
ruin nature’s chief ornament. 

It stimulates, strengthens, and increases the growth of Hair; softens 
and nourishes it when grown ; and arrests its decline. Besides this, it 
acts on those pigments the constant supply of which is essential to the 
Hair retaining its colour. 

The Hair of the Head & the Whiskers & Moustachios 

Are alike benefited. For children it is invaluable, as it forms the basis 
of a magnificent Head of Hair, prevents Baldness in mature age, and 
obviates the use of djes and poisonous restoratives. 

ESTABLISHED UPWAKDS OF SIXTY YEARS. 

(A giijlcient guaraidee of its ffficacy.) 


Sold by all Perfumers and Chemists at Ss. 6d., 6^., and 11s. only. 
Wholesale and Retail by the Proprietors, 

C. & A. OLDRIDGE, 

22, WELLINGTON STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 

BALM OF COLUMBIA. 

ESTABLISHED UPWAKDS OF SIXTY TEAKS. 















DR. J. COUIS BROWNE’S 


THE ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE. 



A dvice to INTAL^S.—if you wish to obtain quiet refreshing ; 

sle^ free from heanache, relief from pain and anguish, to ' 

and assil^il^ the weary^^iings of protracted disease, invigorate tia^ 
nervous ^fi dwr rmd i*CTn:ate the circulating systems of the body, you^^ 
wIU.-prt)vide yourself with that marvellous remedy discovered by Dr. J. 
COLMS BROWNE (late Medical Staff), to which he gave the name of 


LORODYNE 


/Wnd which is admitted by/the Profession to be thq nio^’^ wOinl^r^cil and 
/ valualffe remedy ever discovered. • 


CHLORO DY N E is tlie best remedy known for'^ou^lwr;^onsump- 

tiou, BroucliitjSs, Astliuia. _ 

CHLORODYNE effectually checks and arrestX those too bften 

fatal diseases/-!)iplitlieria, Fever, Croup, Ague. 

CHLORODYNE .^pts like a ^arm in Diarrhoea; Kud is the only 

specific in C/ioleraand Dysentery. y . ’ .(( f, 

CHLORODYNE’ 'offectuall;^ cuts short all attacks‘^^'E^ilepsy, 
Hysteria, Palpitation, Spasms. •' - 

CHLORODYNE is the onl^^ palliative in Neuralgia, Rheuthatism, 

Gout, Cancer, Toothaclie', Mvuhigitis, &c. " 

The Riglit Hon. EARL RUSSELL has graciouMy. fa^'oured'J. T. fej^lfpORT 

with the followiiffi^ ’ v 

“ Earl Russell communicated to the College'o^ Physicians that he received a 
despatch from Her Majesty’s Consul at Maailla,q.cvthe effect that Cholera had be^ 
raging fearfully and that the ONLY remedy of fury sei’vioe was CHLOROIi3Uj;E^ 

—See Lancet, December 1st, 18(51. - ^ 

Vioin tv. Vexalms Petfuireic, M.D. /t /J 


I have no hesitation in stating' that I have never met with any So'^tefli- 

cacious ns an anti-s])asmoflic and Sedative. I have used it in Consumption, Asthma, 
Diarrhcea, and other diseases, and am perfectly satisfied with the results. 


From Dr. B. ,T. Boulton and Co., Horncnsilc. 

We have made pretty extensive use of Chlorodyne in our practice lately, and 
look upon it as an excellent direct sedative and anti-spasiuodic. It seems to allay 
pain and irritatitui in whatever organ, and from whatever cause. It induces a 
feeling of comfort and quietude not obtainable bv any other remedy, and it seems 
to possess this great advantage over all other sedatives, that it leaves no unpleasant 
after effects. - 

CAUTION—The extraordinary medical reports on the efficacy of Chlorodyne 
render it of vital importance that the public should obtain the genuine, which 
bears the words “Dr. J. Collis Browne’s Chlorodyne.’’ 

Vice-Chancellor Woou stated that Dr. J. Collis Browne was undoubtedly the 
Inventor of CHLORODYNE ; that the w'hole story of the defendant. Freeman, was 
deliberately untrue. 

Lord Chancellor Selborne and Lord Justice James stated that the defendant had 
naade a deliberate misrepresentation of the decision of Vice-Chancellor Wood. 

Chemists throughout the land confirm this decision that Dr. J. C. BROWNE 
was the Inventor of CHLORODYNE. 


Sold in Bottles at Is. lid., 2s. Od., and 4s. 6df., by all Chemists. 

' , - c SOLE MANUFACTURER, 


J". T. ID-A.‘VBTTY30E,T, 

33, Gt. Bussell St., Bloomsbury, Lonuon. 



■V 




















- — 

NIN^ EXHIBITION PRIZE MEDALS. 



In |lb. and ]lb. Packets, is. 4 d. per lb. 

THE CARACAS COCOA specially recom¬ 
mended by the manufacturers, owes its delicious flavour to 
the celebrated Cocoa of Caracas, combined with other choice 
descriptions. Purchasers should ask specially for “ FRY’S 
C^RACCA CCCCA ” to distinguish it from other varieties. 

"CARAC.AS COCOA has ever been considered the best of all that is pro¬ 
duced upon the American soil."—R. C. T. Middlicton, Consul-General 
Caracas .—Journal of Applied Science. 

“A packet can easily be obtained, and its delicate flavour and fine aroma • 
ensure its adoption as a beverage for breakfast or supper."— Standard. 


FRY’S EXTRACT OF COCOA 

In 6d. Packets, is. and 2 s. Tins. 

A perfectly pure and delicious beverage prepared exclusively 
from choice Cocoa Nibs. 

“The ‘EXTRACT Oh' COCOA,' really consists of Cocoa Nibs deprived 
of superfluous oil, than which, if prepared, there is no nicer or more wholesome 
preparation of Cocoa." — took, I Voter, and Air, Dr. Hassall. 


PRY’S CHOCOLATE CREAMS 

ARE DELICIOUS SWEETMEATS. 


J. S, FRY & SONS, BRISTOL AND LONDON. 




































